has anyone confirmed that the drifting is actually showing up on the toyota tech website or what.if so tell me how to retrieve it.i think everybody who has this problem should call the toyota complaint line and let them know. i called and they took my name vin# and my complaint and noted it in the computer.
I wasn't knocking CR, in fact I have the yearly auto review they put out in April sitting on my desk. Good tool for closing recalcitrant customers on the value of Toyota vehicles. However, all the information about invoice and what it actually costs the dealer to keep a car on the lot until it sells is worthless unless you can actually buy it for what CR says you should. I wish there was a $3800 mark up between base invoice and base retail and some more for the options. I could take the rest of the year off from all the Avalons I've sold in the last couple of months. What in the world is the "Extra mile" package? We don't sell that stuff in our neck of the woods. And getting back to the paint protection, they will paint your vehicle within the 5 year warranty that's included when you purchase the package. At least in my neck of the woods, both Toyota dealers that I've worked for have done it. So I guess $499-$599.00 is really not that much over a five year period when compared to a $5000.00 factory approved paint job is it? Mackabee
[For your reference, aftermarket companies such as Alpine and Pioneer charge $300 for their DVD updates. The reason for the high cost is the licensing fees charged by NAVTEQ and TeleAtlas. It cost serious dollars to collect, compile and verify the map information. Undertaking the creation of a software that will safely route you to a destination is no trivial matter. ]
Well, as I said before, I don't begrudge the $250. I'm sure many manhours and technical dollars are involved in getting the amazing knowledge base set up. What dismays me is the infrequency of updates. And this seems odd because I think many users would snap up the updates on a regular basis--perhaps even by subscription--making more revenue flow. Your handle suggests you might know something about that industry, as do your defensive comments. Is there an economic reason why they don't issue updates at shorter intervals?
I just had to share a trip I just made. For the first time in my life, I put on 539 miles on my car before I filled her up again (my XLS 05 Avalon) and I had about another gallon and a half or more left, so could have gone farther. I averaged to my calculations approximately 32.7 or 32.8 miles per gallon over the entire 539 miles. I never got this MPG on my 04 Av. I filled up with Exxon 89, and went at the speed limits, no more then 65 MPH (sometimes 60) even when 70 was allowed. I had the A/C on the lowest fan speed most of the time. I finally hit 10,000 miles. It seems as I'm getting better overall steady mileage and wonder if this is because I changed my oil at the first 1,000 miles and then every 3,000 afterwards? Anyway, I wanted to post this especially for those thinking of buying a car and want something that gives great MPH in this expensive gas situation we are all in. My wife and I also remarked about the comfort of the seats during our trip and how quiet it was. My car is still trouble free, so guess I'm lucky seeing some complaints here. Mac, I trust you're much better, I pray you are my friend. I still read the posts now and then.
The problem is the clearance in the rear strut housing. I put 235/45/R18. The offset for the 17"and 7" wide rim is +45mm with 215/55/r17 . The 18" rim is +40mm offset with a 7.5" rim. The tires are Michelin Pilot HX MVM4. These tires are the exact Diameter as the 215/55/r17 so your electronic will not be effected. The 18" tires makes the car handle much better. Ride is the same. This site has some pictures of the rims and tires. http://groups.msn.com/2005AVALON/car.msnw?albumlist=2
In response to the posts about the hesitation of the tranny on acceleration, I asked my seasoned independent mechanic in Los Angeles what he knows about this, while he was replacing the incredibly substandard brake pads on my 97 Camry. He says the following: The hesitation is to allow the engine to develop about 2000 rpm before it applies its high horsepower and torque to the transmission. Without the pause, there were lots of warranty problems on cars due to engine mount damage, and also stress on the tranny and other elements. He said that Mecedes, Lexus and other cars which I forgot the names of, also have the pause built in to reduce problems, and they are not about to change this. He says that if you want to spin rubber, you can buy a Cadillac, as they have no hesitation. I leave it open for discussion. With regards to those bothered by the unfriendly Navigation message, my friend with a Mercedes has to push an OK button to use his navigation. The mechanic says they try to avoid lawsuits due to driver inattention--
along with post 8839 suggestion that you don't do this to an otherwise perfectly fine automobile - regardless of whether this wheel/tire combination 'fits' you will likely: 1) create a much harder riding and noisier vehicle, The Av is too softly sprung to get any real benefit out of the extra rubber on the road anyway. It will never be a sports car! 2) the 20" tires/wheels will also likely add a significant amount of unsprung weight whch should have negative effects on overall handling as well as braking. 3) check with Toyota but I would think you are running the risk of voiding all or part of your warranties. Although it is perfectly OK (and sometimes beneficial) to 'plus 1 or 2' tires/wheels you are playing with the vehicles engineered dynamics when you go crazy with it. Never could understand why folks do things like this to otherwise perfectly fine automobiles and trucks - not to mention the costs involved. Did see an Av on a dealer lot with some 19's that they wanted $8000.00 extra for - to me it looked ridiculous!
If you like you can simply press audio or climate control to bypass the initial "I AGREE" screen upon starting the car. If you want to use the navigation portion of the system you will need to touch the "I AGREE" button on the display.
In the future if you do not want the map display to be default you can modify this feature. Simply press the INFO button, then touch 'Screen Transition' to set the radio/climate control as the defualt screen. Of course, when you cycle the ignition the "I AGREE" screen will always be the first thing you see.
Thought all you Avy owners would like to know that the J.D. Powers Survey for Customer Satisfaction was just released on CNN and the Avalon ranked #1 in the full car category.
Don't forget tonight's member-to-member chat - it's open mic night, so come and discuss whatever's on your mind.
6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET. Drop by for live chat with other members. Hope you can join us!
kirstie_h
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
After reading many post on this board I finally had to post a comment. I own a 2005 Avalon LTD. Serial # 8500, made in mid February. I can only say it has been one magnificent automobile, at work and the golf courses it has been Affectionately called "the ride". It draws attention just about every where we travel. The gas mileage is what is stated for city, and better on the highway (34 mpg). The appointments and accessorys are a delight and welcomed as well as user friendly. I have owned other high end cars and find this one to be the best of all !! Ah!, yes, I fit the profile for the target audience for this car (54 years old, empty nesters). I researched this vehicle for some time before we purchased this one, and believe me I have folders full of car research materials and lots of logged miles along with many hours of research on the internet. In closing I would also like to comment that buying from the right dealership plays an important role in the decision making process, I have nothing but great things to say about "Metro Toyota of Cleveland".
Best of luck to all that have already purchased this fine automobile, and anyone considering to buy. I dont see how you can go wrong.
Picked up my 06 Toyota Avalon Touring on Aug 16th....
Have been reading this forum for months now. So I was extremely anal about all of the "quality problems" mentioned in this forum (e.g. drifting to the right, fog lights loose, rear window distortion). When I picked up my car, I checked for all these. Unfortunately, my car had all of the above problems. However, the only one that I was really concerned with was the drift. So I brought the car to the dealer of which they had the car for 3 days. I told the dealer about the TSB regarding the alignment problems with Camry's, and they told me they already tried that but to no avail.
To keep it short, the dealer (after speaking with a Toyota Field Engineer) replaced the Michelin tires with Bridgstone and the drifting problem went away.
Just thought I'd share this to all having the drifting problem.
I really appreciate your taking the time to provide input. Just got back from trying your suggestions.
My problem is that when I press the INFO button, there is no "Screen Transition" displayed. The only options shown was:Trip Information, Calendar, Maintenance, and Language.
I then assumed that you meant to press the Disp (Display) button. Again there was no "Screen Transition" displayed. There was a "Screen Off" indication and that blacked out the screen. Is this what you had in mind?
Still upon restart I had to get by the "I Agree" and still press either the Audio or Climate controls. To my mind, there was really no default because of all of the required Button Pushing after restart. Why an "I Agree" navigation disclaimer if I am not using it?
Again, thank you for your suggestions. It's a lot more than I got from the Dealer or Toyota.
I find the system an every day nuisance and as good as the car is otherwise, I would never have bought it with NAV
I really appreciate your taking the time to provide input. Just got back from trying your suggestions.
My problem is that when I press the INFO button, there is no "Screen Transition" displayed. The only options shown was:Trip Information, Calendar, Maintenance, and Language.
I then assumed that you meant to press the Disp (Display) button. Again there was no "Screen Transition" displayed. There was a "Screen Off" indication and that blacked out the screen. Is this what you had in mind?
Still upon restart I had to get by the "I Agree" and still press either the Audio or Climate controls. To my mind, there was really no default because of all of the required Button Pushing after restart. Why an "I Agree" navigation disclaimer if I am not using it?
Again, thank you for your suggestions. It's a lot more than I got from the Dealer or Toyota.
I find the system an every day nuisance and as good as the car is otherwise, I would never have bought it with NAV
i have 20x8.5 on my avalon and have rubbin issues. Car definitly habdles better and looks amazin . I jus have a couple modifications to make next year after winter when i put them bac on to get rid of the rubbin for good. But it kills ur brakes. it takes forever to brake but i'm use to it and it definitly way slower. jus given anyone the heads up . U will rub in the rear fender over bumps. i have 245 tires and if i had 235 it wouldn't rub.
Today, I took a short trip and for the first time, a rapid ticking noise came from the AC vents (I think). I have read all the previous letters of others who have this problem but I didn't see a solution. Is there anything new on this? Tarhe
Ive got those low down drift to the right blues! but i gottem fixed. Heres how...Increase right front camber and decrease left front camber until pull/drift is eliminated. Stay in specs. and youll be fine. So when you hear ...Its radial drift or its road crown or the type of tire your running or its incase you pass out you will drift off the road out of traffic or its because of a full moon. Just tell your tech to adjust your camber. I promise.
Why do you think this radial drift, or drifting for an other reason, seems to occur in the Touring more than any other model, especially considering that the XLS and Limited have identical tires (Bridgestone or Michelin) and identical wheel sizes? Regards, Deanie
I posted the question originally. I am considering 235/35R20. In your opinion, is this going to be a problem? You sounded so sure in your statement that 235 would not rub. I'm getting both answers. Check out this site and le t me know if the math is correct. link title Thanks in advance.
Has anyone experienced a problem having their insurer refuse to use Toyota OEM parts to repair their vehicle that has been in an accident? I've heard that State Farm was successfully sued a while back for this practise but believe they have appealed. See quote from Toyota's warranty statement below . . .
"Toyota vehicle factory warranties transfer when repairs are completed with new Toyota Genuine Parts. The use of used salvage and/or imitation/counterfeit parts is not covered by the Toyota transferable limited warranty on such parts and all adjoining parts and systems which are caused to fail or rust by those parts."
I would never settle for any parts other than the OEM for your vehicle, no matter what insurance says, unless the part that needs replacement in a vehicle is not the original...
In Canada (at least in Ontario) you chose where to get the vehicle repaired. As far as parts are concerned, it depends on how old the vehicle is. They also take into consideration the shape and value of the car. They won't approve Toyota parts if using them will exceed the value of the vehilce. Reputable insurance companies will always approve the use of manufacturers genuine parts for repairs (except for conditions stated above).
"whether or not premium fuel was used" and "280hp still stands for Premium and 268 for 87 as far as Avalon is concerned - unless you have another link you wish to provide indicating otherwise"
Links, Sminks.
Go to the source.
Call Toyota and ask them to verify your contention in writing. They won't.
Good advice... from a guy who clearly doesn't own or like an Avalon, but persists in spending a great deal of time in this forum, cluttering up the place with unfounded opinions.
My 05 LTD has a whine when accelerating, when I turn off the A/C the whine disappears. Anyone else have this problem? Other than some loose fog lights the car is a dream. Will be it into the dealer next Tuesday. Hope the can correct this annoying whine...
deanie: Some things have no clear answer. Even in engineering.
This "drift" problem has been discussed at length here. The summary of the TSB about how to fix it, posted some pages back, was very valuable. But there are other answers that might work as well. Such as, simply replace the tires.
To your question, two answers: First, some tires/tread patterns just don't work on some cars. Exactly why, no one really knows. It just happens. It happened to me with a Buick station wagon 20 years ago. New tires, horrible handling. Switched tire brands, it drove fine. Go figure.... Second, and more on topic, the suspension on the Touring model is probably different from all other lines. This basic difference may be part of the cause. The TSB appears to treat all equally, so maybe not, but if the struts are of unequal characteristics, or mounted improperly, the drift will occur. The TSB addresses this issue as a last resort.
As many forum members have pointed out, it might be the air pressure, tires, wheels or alignment. But the final correction is the struts and the mounting. If that fails, return to the beginning and replace the tires with a different brand and tread pattern. My .02 ...other ideas always welcome...
I have the same thing, thought I would describe it more as a hum. It stops if I turn of the A/C. It also eventully subsides when the cabin cools to the set temperature and the fans cycle down.
Thanks for the info, however mine continues to whine, hum, when the cabin cools down. Either driving or parked, accelerating the engine produces the noise. Only when the a/c is off does it sound nice and quiet..
There is no legal requirement for an Ontario insurer to use OEM parts. In fact, it is very much up to the discretion of the insurer. For example, State Farm having been stung with a multi-million lawsuit in the US is now using OEM parts for all repairs there (and in Canada). My Avalon's warranty could be negated by using non OEM parts and there is currently no law to prevent this. IMO, there should be legislation that either (1) requires OEM parts for all vehicles under warranty or (2) requires that vehicle warranties be protected when non OEM parts are used. That opens up a real can of worms then since government would be called on to certify non OEM parts. Wondering how this in handled in the US?
This quote from IBC (Insurance Bureau of Canada) . . . "Auto insurers want to preserve the right to use aftermarket parts for non-structural vehicle components to keep costs down and promote price competition for all parts. Insurers in Canada have a standard protocol on using aftermarket parts, which is defined by age of vehicle, mileage and part type. Insurers only uses aftermarket parts for cosmetic repairs and not safety-related crash items."
I don't agree (not unless you want premiums to rise drastically). I can only repeat what I stated in my previous post. Have you had an accident recently? If so, did your insurance company (or broker) give you a hard time? A reputable company will not (unless you've had numerous claims). Why are you worried about what happens in the States concerning this issue? Don't forget that the State's population is 10 times greater than it is in Canada (that makes a big difference in revenue collection).
I don't have a problem with the quote from the IBC. It seems like logic to me. Why would insurance companies spend more on repairs than what the car is worth? The vehicle would then become a "write-off". The choice would still be yours. If the vehicle is not very old there will be no problem. I stated this in my previous post. As far as warranties are concerned most expire after 5 years or 100,000kms. (this will not be an issue for insurance coverage). Maybe you should insure your vehicle with State Farm. It may give you piece of mind.
I installed a moonroof wind deflector about a month ago. It definitly cuts down on the wind noise and it provides a bit of shade. I find the tinting in the window is a bit light. I will have the glass tinted when I have the windows done later. I am glad I installed the unit. I got mine from WeatherTech. Installation is a snap but two people are better than one. Hope that helps. Larry
Wondering why you keep bringing up the "write-off" thing. Of course no insurer will pay more for repairs than a cars cash value, regardless of using OEM parts or after market.
Wondering which insurance company you work for? Maybe state Farm? :confuse:
well i have 245/35r20 .Well i it shouldn't rub but even if it do u can get rid of the probleem by grindin down in the lip inside the rear fenders. For some reason i only rub on the right side and the left side only happen on major bumps. Can't have peolpe in the back though with the 245 o u would rub with anytype of body roll. My car sits with a little gap with the 20's. The front's will rub if u have mudguards. It rubs my mudguards at a 1/4 lock in either direction. This also can be fixed by grindin down the mudguard a little. Some people might think this is alot of stuff to ahve to do but if u see my car u would think it is worth it but i ain't doin any of the fixes till the end of winter since i will be bac on stock rims by next month. Also how wide are the rims u planning on gettin cuz i think if it 8.5 wide it most likely still rub with 235 so go 8.0
"I keep trying to fall for the new RL or GS300, but one picture keeps coming into my mind is sitting at a stop sign next to Grandpa in his $26K new avalon and knowing he can beat me to 60.
On my 2005 LTD I averaged 21.58 MPG recently on a trip to Chicago, 354 miles divided by 16.4 gallons at a highway speed of 75 mph using 87 and 89 octane. Earlier, I was getting in the range of 28 mpg. Around town we were averaging around 18 mpg.
Is there something wrong since originally my mileage was better? Are others having the same problem.
Mechanically and basic comfort, do you believe that the highest end and the lowest end in any car make is the same? A friend of mine claims that the car makers do more for the highest end and the highest end is superior over the lowest such as Avalon LTD VS XL. I say he is wrong. What's your opinion?
I have a 2003 Avalon which is wonderful. In test driving the 2005, I experienced throttle and transmission hesitations. I wonder if anyone else has had that experience.
I don't work for and have never been associated with any insurance company. I was just responding to your insurance question and wondered if you had been involved in an accident. Incidentally, I only mentioned "write-off" once. I can only repeat, reputable insurers will always approve OEM parts for repairs. Also, reputable repair shops will insist on using them. Based on the number of responses regarding this subject, it seems to be a non-issue.
If I am driving my Avalon in Canada..say in Montreal for example...and fill up with 16 gallons because it's American, that's 60.50 liters from the local pump. If I pay for it with American dollars, how much does it cost (american)? At $3. per gallon the fill up would be $48. here in Georgia, premium grade, 92 octane. Thanks.
Comments
Mackabee
Well, as I said before, I don't begrudge the $250. I'm sure many manhours and technical dollars are involved in getting the amazing knowledge base set up. What dismays me is the infrequency of updates. And this seems odd because I think many users would snap up the updates on a regular basis--perhaps even by subscription--making more revenue flow. Your handle suggests you might know something about that industry, as do your defensive comments. Is there an economic reason why they don't issue updates at shorter intervals?
Bill
1) create a much harder riding and noisier vehicle, The Av is too softly sprung to get any real benefit out of the extra rubber on the road anyway. It will never be a sports car!
2) the 20" tires/wheels will also likely add a significant amount of unsprung weight whch should have negative effects on overall handling as well as braking.
3) check with Toyota but I would think you are running the risk of voiding all or part of your warranties.
Although it is perfectly OK (and sometimes beneficial) to 'plus 1 or 2' tires/wheels you are playing with the vehicles engineered dynamics when you go crazy with it. Never could understand why folks do things like this to otherwise perfectly fine automobiles and trucks - not to mention the costs involved. Did see an Av on a dealer lot with some 19's that they wanted $8000.00 extra for - to me it looked ridiculous!
In the future if you do not want the map display to be default you can modify this feature. Simply press the INFO button, then touch 'Screen Transition' to set the radio/climate control as the defualt screen. Of course, when you cycle the ignition the "I AGREE" screen will always be the first thing you see.
Hope this helps!
6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET. Drop by for live chat with other members. Hope you can join us!
kirstie_h
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Best of luck to all that have already purchased this fine automobile, and anyone considering to buy. I dont see how you can go wrong.
Have been reading this forum for months now. So I was extremely anal about all of the "quality problems" mentioned in this forum (e.g. drifting to the right, fog lights loose, rear window distortion). When I picked up my car, I checked for all these. Unfortunately, my car had all of the above problems. However, the only one that I was really concerned with was the drift. So I brought the car to the dealer of which they had the car for 3 days. I told the dealer about the TSB regarding the alignment problems with Camry's, and they told me they already tried that but to no avail.
To keep it short, the dealer (after speaking with a Toyota Field Engineer) replaced the Michelin tires with Bridgstone and the drifting problem went away.
Just thought I'd share this to all having the drifting problem.
I really appreciate your taking the time to provide input. Just got back from trying your suggestions.
My problem is that when I press the INFO button, there is no "Screen Transition" displayed. The only options shown was:Trip Information, Calendar, Maintenance, and Language.
I then assumed that you meant to press the Disp (Display) button. Again there was no "Screen Transition" displayed. There was a "Screen Off" indication and that blacked out the screen. Is this what you had in mind?
Still upon restart I had to get by the "I Agree" and still press either the Audio or Climate controls. To my mind, there was really no default because of all of the required Button Pushing after restart. Why an "I Agree" navigation disclaimer if I am not using it?
Again, thank you for your suggestions. It's a lot more than I got from the Dealer or Toyota.
I find the system an every day nuisance and as good as the car is otherwise, I would never have bought it with NAV
Reg :confuse: ards
I really appreciate your taking the time to provide input. Just got back from trying your suggestions.
My problem is that when I press the INFO button, there is no "Screen Transition" displayed. The only options shown was:Trip Information, Calendar, Maintenance, and Language.
I then assumed that you meant to press the Disp (Display) button. Again there was no "Screen Transition" displayed. There was a "Screen Off" indication and that blacked out the screen. Is this what you had in mind?
Still upon restart I had to get by the "I Agree" and still press either the Audio or Climate controls. To my mind, there was really no default because of all of the required Button Pushing after restart. Why an "I Agree" navigation disclaimer if I am not using it?
Again, thank you for your suggestions. It's a lot more than I got from the Dealer or Toyota.
I find the system an every day nuisance and as good as the car is otherwise, I would never have bought it with NAV
Reg :confuse: ards
Regards,
Deanie
Thanks in advance.
"Toyota vehicle factory warranties transfer when repairs are completed with new Toyota Genuine Parts. The use of used salvage and/or imitation/counterfeit parts is not covered by the Toyota transferable limited warranty on such parts and all adjoining parts and systems which are caused to fail or rust by those parts."
and
"280hp still stands for Premium and 268 for 87 as far as Avalon is concerned - unless you have another link you wish to provide indicating otherwise"
Links, Sminks.
Go to the source.
Call Toyota and ask them to verify your contention in writing. They won't.
Because they know its not true.
Accept the facts as they are and move on.
Good advice... from a guy who clearly doesn't own or like an Avalon, but persists in spending a great deal of time in this forum, cluttering up the place with unfounded opinions.
http://www.jdpower.com/news/releases/pressrelease.asp?ID=2005092
Anyone else have this problem? Other than some loose fog lights the car is a dream. Will be it into the dealer next Tuesday. Hope the can correct this annoying whine...
This "drift" problem has been discussed at length here. The summary of the TSB about how to fix it, posted some pages back, was very valuable. But there are other answers that might work as well. Such as, simply replace the tires.
To your question, two answers: First, some tires/tread patterns just don't work on some cars. Exactly why, no one really knows. It just happens. It happened to me with a Buick station wagon 20 years ago. New tires, horrible handling. Switched tire brands, it drove fine. Go figure....
Second, and more on topic, the suspension on the Touring model is probably different from all other lines. This basic difference may be part of the cause. The TSB appears to treat all equally, so maybe not, but if the struts are of unequal characteristics, or mounted improperly, the drift will occur. The TSB addresses this issue as a last resort.
As many forum members have pointed out, it might be the air pressure, tires, wheels or alignment. But the final correction is the struts and the mounting. If that fails, return to the beginning and replace the tires with a different brand and tread pattern. My .02 ...other ideas always welcome...
This quote from IBC (Insurance Bureau of Canada) . . .
"Auto insurers want to preserve the right to use aftermarket parts for non-structural vehicle components to keep costs down and promote price competition for all parts. Insurers in Canada have a standard protocol on using aftermarket parts, which is defined by age of vehicle, mileage and part type. Insurers only uses aftermarket parts for cosmetic repairs and not safety-related crash items."
I don't have a problem with the quote from the IBC. It seems like logic to me. Why would insurance companies spend more on repairs than what the car is worth? The vehicle would then become a "write-off". The choice would still be yours. If the vehicle is not very old there will be no problem. I stated this in my previous post. As far as warranties are concerned most expire after 5 years or 100,000kms. (this will not be an issue for insurance coverage). Maybe you should insure your vehicle with State Farm. It may give you piece of mind.
Hope that helps. Larry
Check out this latest article:
link title
havalongavalon
Wondering which insurance company you work for? Maybe state Farm? :confuse:
"I keep trying to fall for the new RL or GS300, but one picture keeps coming into my mind is sitting at a stop sign next to Grandpa in his $26K new avalon and knowing he can beat me to 60.
Is there a pill I can take for this?"
Is there something wrong since originally my mileage was better? Are others having the same problem.
Paul
This has not been my experience, my mileage improved somewhat over the first several months. Some possibilities that may explain your case:
1. average speed Originally, did you also drive at average 75 mph, or did you go slower at first?
2. temperature Was it really hot during this last trip, did you use the AC more?
3. load Did you carry a full load on this trip?
4. tire pressure Was the pressure initially high and did you reduce it to the normal range before this trip?
5. fuel tank fillup Did the 16.4 gallons represent true fill-ups done the same way before and after this trip?
And I'll bet there are a few more possibilities that could explain it; for example:
6. reduction in horsepower Down from 280 to 268, in the last month or two. This must be the real reason!
havalongavalon
http://www.invisibleglass.com/