Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
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Some of them will keep their Edmunds privileges longer than you, though...
Seriously, how much over 16 are you, not counting today?
-Mathias
But I was bored and it was more comical than anything. He can't be for real.
Let's stick to talking about the best way to buy used vehicles.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
I ended up paying 11K before taxes and a extended warranty I am going to purchase through warrantydirect.com
This one was in immaculate condition with no stains, carpet holes, damage, scratches or mechanical problems. I had it inspected at a Ford dealership and they said it was in excellent condition.
Thanks to CarFax for the decent deal. I managed to find out about the truck before it even hit their lot. They had just put it in their computer when I called. They didn't even have time to detail it before I was there looking at it. I put money down on it, test drove it and had it inspected before the public even knew it existed. The internet sales department didn't even have it on their website. Go CarFax!
Thanks for all your information everyone.
Like someone once said: **$9,000 truck .....?? .. not on this planet .........**
It's a "black 3.0" truck in Florida .... no big seller here.
Terry.
PS: Carfax has been a recommended info source for some time.
Unless CarFax has started selling cars....
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Terry.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Terry :P
Once of them was a Ford Ranger at a local Cadillac dealership that was listed "1 hour ago." I inquired into it and there it was. It was literally purchased as a trade in from the previous owner within an hour of my call. They said that every vehicle they appraise through their system is picked up by CarFax's scanning software and listed. CarFax apparently has a direct connection to their inventory system. They said that this causes problems sometimes with cars that they only apprasie being listed but they deal with it.
Had the other truck not had so many problems, I would have probably paid more but I wasn't going to take ownership of a potentially costly vehicle.
So in this case, it looks like you paid $11,000 for a $9,000 truck, instead of paying $11,000 for a $11,000 truck ..... so you're were saying..?
Like my Great Grand Daddy used to say: "you know you're in trouble when the blind ~ go deaf ...."
Terry
PS: **They said that every vehicle they appraise through their system is picked up by CarFax's scanning software and listed. CarFax apparently has a direct connection to their inventory system**
Translation: We Carfax every car we're just about to take in on trade ..... them and 8,193 other dealers .. who wants to put $9,000 into a vehicle that's had $4,500 in repairs..?
I agree with the 3.0, 4.0 thing but I don't need that kind of engine. I figured I would save gas instead. The reccommended retail prices of the truck I am going to buy are higher than the price I got. Plus, no haggle, no excessive dealer fees ($500) and they didn't overcharge me for tax, tag or title.
I am picking up an extended warranty online through WarrantyDirect.com From what I hear, thye offer top notch service and coverage. I am getting the bumper to bumper coverage with emissions coverage on top $0 deductible. It may sound excessive but I intend to use it. Plus, when I sell the truck in a year, it will be worth more.
I guess it makes sense for CarFax to list every vehicle that a dealer appraises. If I were a dealer, I wouldn't want to take in a piece of garbage either..
Now back in 2000-2002 there were lots of them on the lots.
Any truck, even the 'small' Ranger gets terrible gas milage. Unless you get the 4cyl 5speed standard cab. And the 4L extended cabs are real gas hogs, like 16-17 on the highway. Who knows what a 4L 4x4 would get.
Keep in mind I am 18, Living on my own, insurance will we high. My most important elements for a car.
A) STLYE
I've narrowed down three choices.
1) 1999-2002 Honda Accord Coupe V6 or V4 (Automatic)
2) 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5 or 2.5s
3) 2001 (New Stlying) VW Passat 1.8T
Any suggestions?
BUT, for your situation, I would easily pick the Accord 4-cyl (FYI, not a V4... just a straight 4). The V6 carries higher insurance, higher fuel cost, and higher purchase price.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
With all of the flooded cars on the Gulf Coast, Carfax is offering for free, to check the Vin to see if it was reported as a flood vehicle. Go to Carfax.com/flood.
Not to thread crap, but isn't warranty direct the same scammers that were involved in Warranty Gold Fiasco? I would never buy 3rd party warranty after reading thos posts. People were left with nothing, while the owners of Warranty Gold were sipping margaritas in the Bahamas protected by their laws from the US law enforcement.
Since I already own two Elantras and really like them, and like the idea of having a warranty, I started looking for '03+ Elantras with less than 40k miles. Boy, was I shocked at the prices! Anything decent is up around $9-10k. I found a few lower, around $7k, but these always had salvage titles--and I am NOT going there. Then I dropped down to '03+ Accents (that is when the SABs were added and a refresh done) but even those are around $8k. I even stooped so low as to look at '04+ Rios, and I found what looked like a good sample for just $6k, but it's a Rio (which my 17-year-old son would not be caught dead in) with manual windows/locks/mirrors.
Then I found a '98 Sentra GXE 5-speed with 24k miles, alloys (look like the Nissan factory alloys), moonroof, and all the standard toys like A/C, cruise, and power package. I drove a '97 Sentra GXE for 3 years and it was a good little car. Nothing special, but was screwed together well, nice paint, fairly comfy ride, and smooth if not powerful engine. My sister still drives it and it's doing well. And these cars are rated 39 mpg EPA highway.
The asking price is $5995--and the dealer says that's a big discount to move it fast. (It's been sitting awhile; the photos look like a fall scene.) However, Edmunds.com has it pegged at about $5700 and NADA at about $5500.
So, two questions:
* What is a reasonable price? I was thinking of starting at $5000, assuming the car is in good shape (it does have a Carfax warranty) and going up to as high as $5500 if I have to (if I walk out and they don't follow me). My rationale for offering $5000 is it's been sitting a long time, it's a stick (OK with me and my son, but not generally popular), it has no CD (again OK with me and my son), it's black (my least favorite color, shows everything), and it's eight years old. It has very low miles however. I wonder if some "little old lady" drove it to church and the grocery store every Sunday. (Well, with the spoiler probably not.)
* Is there anything to watch out for with a super-low-mileage but old car like this? I know I'll want to check on regular maintenance, check for rust and signs of collision damage, signs of a rolled-back odometer (e.g. worn gas pedal or new tires). But is there anything else I should look for or ask about?
Thanks!
My brother just bought an '02 Escort with 35k miles and all the stuff - Auto, Air, PW/PL/Keyless - for $5600. Not an exciting car, but a lot of value for the money. That Sentra sounds like it could be a nice one, but I'd like it a lot better at $5k or so.
-Jason
$9/$10 ..? ... Sounds like you're lookin' for love in all the wrong places -- keep in mind Backy, these are *asking* prices ... "glow in the dark" 30/40k 03 Elantra GLS's with auto's are only doing the low/mid $6's at the auctions, that means dealers are dropping the mid/high $5's in them on trade and salvage titles are worth less than half of that .....
The little Nissans still pull some strong money in the market, especially with extra low miles and all the toys (with a good history) .. the dealer would probably see the mid/high $3's at the auction, maybe get lucky and see the low $4's on a good day .... $5,900 I dunno about that, but somewhere between $4,9 and $5,500 you guys have a basis for doing some business .... that said, all vehicles that are "good on gas" are getting above normal prices .. try finding a 01 low mileage Chevy Prizm (Corolla) LSI for less than $8,900 ...l.o.l.....
Good luck and let me know .....
Terry.
You don't ask, you don't get .... I don't think they will drop $3,000 .. but I have a sneaky feelin' that $7,9ish would "get 'er done" .... that said, I think you'll have better luck with the Nissan ...
Terry.
I know it is none of my business, but you arleady own 2 cars, why do you need a 3rd? Is it for a new driver (your son)? Are you looking to get a 3rd car just to keep the miles off the other two?
But is there anything else I should look for or ask about?
I am always sceptical about low mileage older vehicles. It is so easy to roll back the odometer these days. Check the carfax, as well as the obvious signs of mileage discrepancy, such as worn or brand new brake pedal fitting, saggy seats, new or really old tires.
I think the idea of "old church lady sunday driver" is the worst car ever. This car never had a chance to fully warm up, all the contaminants produced in the engine sat there for months on end because the miles were not up to change the oil.
I would rather get a ture high miler highway warrior than "sunday church lady" car. Chances are that a 5 spd Sentra with a spoiler and alloys was NOT driven by a church lady, but by a kid who beat the crap out of it, and then rolled the miles back.
It is NOT easy with the electronic odometers and the penalities are so severe that few people would attempt such a thing!
With Car Fax information available, I doubt anyone would be stupid enough to try this in this day and age.
Maybe I am, but I just don't believe people are rolling back odometers. This is something we don't even joke about! Why would anyone take such a risk?
But I think his point was that rollbacks are kinda almost nil compared to 10/15 years ago .... that said, your still going to find that nitwit private seller or the dealer on drugs that makes that stupid move .... nowadays with the title searches, Carsmack, service historys, registration historys and such, it makes it a pitiful roll of the dice ......... but ~~ it's up to you and I to always check ....
Terry.
These days rollbacks are VERY uncommon. They do happen, of course, but you are far more likely to see them on older cars. On modern cars the mileage is also generally stored in the car's ECU... a proper rollback is very hard to accomplish and getting away with it is far harder.
In my experience, many enthusiast drivers, who upgrade wheels and accesorize are usually the ones most meticulous about the maitnence and care of their car.
just my 2cents
Terry.
Since the car had 84k on it, I was concerned about maintenance, so I asked if it would be possible to talk to the person who traded it in. The sales rep called the woman, and we talked for quite awhile. The good news was that almost all the miles were from a daily commute on the freeway, she was the only driver of the car for its entire life, it was only 5 years old (not closer to 6), she recently replaced the tires and battery, she had had no other problems with the car except the headlight stalk, and she traded it for a new car because her lease was up and she was over her mileage allowance. Also she had regular maintenance done--oil changes every 3000 miles etc. EXCEPT... she had not performed the 60k service. I knew the 626 has a timing belt, scheduled for replacement every 60k miles, so I knew the 60k service would be expensive.
Armed with a printout from Edmunds.com that showed this car in Average condition had a Retail TMV of just under $5600 (KBB and NADA were much higher), I negotiated with the sales rep and sales manager (by now the only other people in the place except me, my daughter, and the finance person). First I offered $6000 IF they would perform the 60k service and fix the headlamp stalk. The sales rep took that to the sales manager, but it was a no-go, they were firm at $6995 and would not toss in the 60k service. They showed me ads from the Internet for other 626s, including the one for this car at $7995 (the $6995 was a newpaper ad special), and the average price was over $7000. I pointed out that those were asking prices, not final sale prices, whereas the Edmunds TMV reflects sale prices in this area.
I did want the car, so I said I'd do the $6995 price if they also painted the bumper (they have a body shop), and of course fixed the stalk and did the 60k service. That was a no-go too--they would do either the 60k service, or the headlamp stalk and bumper, but not all of them. I said, fine, you have my number, let me know if you change your mind, and started to leave. The sales rep said to wait, went back to the manager, and came back a few minutes later with the offer sheet at $6995 with all the things I wanted.
So maybe I could have done better, but I really liked the car (spiffy leather interior with woodgrain and chrome accents, flawless inside and out when they paint the bumper, nice ride and handling) and I like the idea that I know the history of the car and that there has never been any abuse or damage. I also like the idea that, unless something breaks (always a risk on a used car), I will have no maintenance to do but oil changes, tire rotations, and wipers for the time I will own the car--which I expect will be less than 2 years and 15k miles.
P.S. They offered me a 12 month/12k Mazda full warranty for $1360, and a powertrain warranty for $960. I said, "no, thanks." Should I have bought that? It seemed like a lot for one year of warranty, even though one transmission repair could pay for the warranty.
I am looking to spend $3,000-$4,000 on a car that will hopefully be hassle free for at least another 4-5 years.
I prefer mid-size SUV's such as Grand Cherokees. In fact, that's exactly what I want. A quick search shows a number of mid-nineties Jeeps available in my price range. But I am looking for alternatives as well. If not an SUV, I am also open to cars such as the Camry.
My first question is, considering my price range, what year / makes / models would be good to look at as far as finding a "historically" mechanically sound vehicle...
I see a lot of Ford Explorers, 96-99, in my price range. Is it because they fall apart?
And also, what should be my "high" price in a price range search? Whether it be private party or a dealership... should I be looking at list prices of $4,500, $5,000, or even $6,000 if my absolute max would be $4,000 out the door? I am not sure in this price range what is an acceptable offer. Is an offer of $4,000 on a $6,000 sticker acceptable... or offensive? haha.
Thanks in advance for your help.
One rig to maybe look at is a Cherokee (not the Grand - the smaller one). The 4.0L with the automatic combination is very robust combination, as long as you get a '97 or newer. The auto in the Cherokees is japanese and are very solid. The auto in the Grand Cherokees is Chrysler and could be problematic.
Still, anything in your price range is going to be a crapshoot.
-Mathias
Buick Regal, maybe Century.
Chevy Impala -- probably the tautest of the bunch.
Anything from a private owner that makes sense in that price range.
Good luck,
-Mathias
With almost all the miles being freeway cruising, I am hoping the tranny hasn't had a rough time of it. A transmission flush is part of the 60k service that the dealer is performing for me.
Depending on the state of the transmission, the flush may be bad news. If I were you I'd inspect the tranny for slippage very carefully after the flush.
The dealer probably paid the super tall $2's low/mid $3's for it, lets figure $3,5 ...... so figure $350 for the 60k, maybe $150ish for the paint, the stalk with labor was probably $150 and lets add another $150 just for the grins and glory depending on how they internalize their service labor in that particular store ... add the detail, a little pack and it will probably hit the table at in and around the $4,8ish figure on the washout sheet ......
Mathias is right on the C4 tranny .. but I wouldn't worry too much because of the previous owner and most of those problems "seemed" to be self induced .. a good tech is always the way to go for an inspection ...
Terry.
Are you saying I should have been able to pay only $4800 for a 2000 Mazda 626 ES automatic in perfect condition, with 84k miles?
Exterior Color: Black
Interior: Tan Leather
Miles: 93000
Transmission: Automatic
Automatic door locks, automatic seats, sunroof, tape deck, am/fm radio, tilt wheel and more.
Well maintained beautiful car. Good condition.
Any thoughts...I am moving my budget up from 3-5K to 5-6K
Thanks