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I have a few questions.
At Mannheim, what disclosures regarding vehicle condition needs to be made?? And how is that communicated to buyers?
If you get a car that has a non-disclosed problem, what recourse do you have?
How do the professional auctions segregate problem cars (MBB, flood, etc.)
For disclosure, I have sent a few cars to Greater Milwaukee from the fleet through my lease company. I **DO** realize that we are talking about a "dealer only" auction where the rules are significantly different from a business-consumer transaction.
That was some post.
Thanks, I saved it... you never know when it might come in handy ;-)
-Mathias
Terry reminds me of the jewelers that can spot a cubic zirconia from across the room. I am sure the system he has filters out the majority of the problems.
I am trying to research several topics using these sites. Is their some other way?
I have an 2004 M3 convertible 18,500 with a one quarter sized ding and want to trade it in. Does any one have a suggestion to know if the low ball offers (compared to NADA and KBB) by the dealer is reasonable?
LMS
At Manheim, what disclosures regarding vehicle condition needs to be made?? And how is that communicated to buyers? ....**
The *sellers* have to disclose if it's TMU (True Mileage Unknown), MBB (Manufacturers Buy Back), Canadian, frame damage, salvage title, flood, etc, etc ...... this information is given to the auction when you book it in, then the auctioneer .. it's also displayed on the screen .... when the auctioneer opens, he loudly announces: "we have a 03 xxxxx with frame damage - *be aware*.! .. do I have $8,800, $8,900." .... plus it's stamped all over the paperwork, and should be on the title ..
If you run a vehicle thru and you don't disclose ... then the dealer can bring it back inside of 8 days and they take the money right out of the sellers account, plus any costs .... that said, non-discloser also puts a mark on your account and that shows all over the country at every auction house in the country the very next day ....... 2nd time - you're fined and you are out ...
Terry :lemon:
Sorry this is long.
On Sunday, I found a 2000 V8 Toyota Tundra Extra Cab truck w/84000 miles that i want to purchase BY OWNER from my neighbor. We agreed on $8500 as the price (according to Edmunds that is a good deal). I told him that I need to sell my car first, so Monday, I put my 1998 Honda Odyssey on Craigslist.org for $4700 (after checking Edmunds.com appraisals & TMV for pricing help) and that same day I took a deposit and I got my asking price and the buyers are coming to pick it up with cash on Saturday. I have the title and all the service records, books, keys, etc.
Now how do I do this? do I type up a sales contract or agreement? what should it say. The vehicle is beyond warranty @ 132,000 miles. I found a bill of sale form on the Florida Dept of Motor Vehicles website, but it says nothing about AS-IS.I want to say all sales final.
Does the buyer have to have insurance BEFORE they pick it up?
Do they have to take my license plate? I just got my 2007 tabs in January. I plan on placing the plate on the new truck.
Do i give the buyer a receipt for the payment (we agreed cash)?
how do I fill out the title information on the Title or do I have to do that at the county offices in front of somebody?
How about taxes?
Should this be done on a weekend?
I also need to know how to buy the truck from my neighbor correctly, so this should help my buyer and also me as a buyer. I previously bought his house, now I am buying his truck!
I live in Florida, hope that helps. thanks for any help you can give me for buying and selling by owner
What I'm really interested in, but it seems that no one is able to provide is guestimates based on experience of how much below trade-in values cars typically sell for at auction. I'm already aware of the added costs of associated with buying a car at auction & the added costs to make the car "like new" (i.e. new tires, brakes, wipers, etc.), but I'm really interested to know what the cars sell for in comparison to KBB/NADA/Etc. trade-in values before any of the add-on costs.
I followed everyone' advice and had an ASE Certified mechanic perform a pre-purchase inspection on a car I wanted to buy. I found out later he was only certified in a couple of areas. I did not know that there are 8 ASE certification areas! He missed some existing mechanical problems and that the car had frame damage from a previous accident. He cost me a lot of money and I decided just to get rid of the car.
I found a web site that I really told me what I needed to know. Please share it.
www.usedcarinspections.org
But .. top mechanics look at the mechanical end of it ... top body guys look for any potential body/paint and frame damage ...
You don't call an electrician when the kitchen sink backs up, do you ......?
Terry
Figure $100-$150 to get rid of that dent (assuming they can do it via "Dent Wizard" or whomever your local paintless dent removal guy is).
See what happens when you date a blonde .....!
Terry. :shades:
As my 1991 Thunderbird is on its last legs, I'm going to be looking for something a little less old. I've estimated the top end of my budget at about $5,000. (This, of course, depends on whether I can get a loan, but I'll worry about that when I'm more ready to buy.) My concerns are, in order of importance: reliability, safety, and fuel economy. I don't need a lot of bells and whistles, just automatic transmission and air conditioning. I don't drive a lot; maybe 5k miles a year, so I'm hoping to be able to keep this car for 3-4 years.
Having pored through a chunk of the forums here, it looks to me like my best bets are either a Chevrolet Prizm or a mid to late 90's Buick with the 3.8L engine. I was wondering if there are any other hidden deals I should be looking out for. I'd like a Honda Civic, but they seem impossible to find in my price range with less than 150k miles on the clock.
Oh yeah, also, I live in Virginia Beach, so any suggestions as to reputable dealerships in the Hampton Roads area would be appreciated too.
Many thanks in advance.
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
I am in the market for a 2003-5 Mazda MVP. I have seen many of them on auto trader for a median price of 14 500. The 2003's seem to be about 1000 less, but the 05's are only 500-800 higher.
I really need to spend 14 500 *out the door*. But is a thousand dollars off sticker really off-base? And should I begin with this figure or a lower one?
I am worried about low-balling and being laughed at. I am paying cash.
Any suggestions would be so helpful, thank-you.
sparkert
Your budget is a little less than that, but close enough. Make an offer and see where it gets you. Start with the best car you think is within range.
If they accept that offer, then fine, you've got a new car. If they can't or won't accept it, then you can always look to a car that's a year older. You never know 'til you try.
We're already looking at the last two weeks of the month, so that might be a slight advantage to you. Get serious in the last week of the month, you might see some dealers more willing to meet your offer.
The thing is - and I think this is becuase those vans are unpopular - the prices are almost always below the Edmonds values. Even lower than the supposed trade-in values!
Does this mean I have almost no room for bargaining? It sure seems like it. I am going to try, though. It helped that you said I shouldn't worry about laughter!
Thank-you so much
sparkert
Now I see there's an 03 MVP coming off of a corporate lease, one owner and *very* well maintained (complete service every 4k miles) for 11990. The warranty has expired becuase its got 53000 miles on it. I *think* this might be a good deal but I'm not sure.
Has anyone got any experiences with corporate leased used cars? Should I hold out for a newer model? I have exactly 14700 dollars to spend on a minivan. And that includes taxes and fees.
P.S. themanq - if you want more private seller listings check out craig's list for your city.
sparkert
edit - oops. didn't read all of the post before me.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If the sticker and the Vin# *match* ... then the dealer needs to make it good ...
I would bypass the salesman .. and in a nice manner, I would make an appointment and I would meet with the GM (whoever the big dude is) and have all the paperwork in hand .... most problems are handled pretty fast and easy when the Big Dog knows the whole story.
Terry.
I think a new car is required to have the factory 'sticker' on it until it is sold, and it is even to be given to the purchaser.
If used, the 'sticker' is just an 'list' of options typed up by the dealer. I think they might have a good case of 'We're so sorry, but that was a mistake by someone typing up the sticker.' Also, if used, was it an 'As Is' sale? If so, you are probably out of luck.
Cruise is added every second of everyday - no biggie, but they need to pay for the whole thing .... that said, just make sure they aren't handing the job over to Billy Bob's Barbeque and Auto repair -- and get "ALL" the paperwork.!
Next time ... just like when you buy a house, make sure you do a complete walkaround .. check the rubber, locks, spare tire, seats, possible paintwork, books, records, all the keys - all of it.!
It always kills me when folks purchase a vehicle and they come back 5 weeks later and say "I didn't know this car didn't have power seats" ..l.o.l... of course I have an "aquantence " that bought a house a few weeks back and just found out it doesn't have air conditioning --- duuuuuh.!
Like my great grand Daddy used to say:
... common sense isn't common ....
Terry.
12/09/2003 3,503 Auto Auction
Sold at auction in Florida
Listed as a manufacturer vehicle
Soooo what does this mean? It doesn't show any problem titles, but could this be an indicator that they've buried something? It's the NEXT record that is the first owner.
Basically the ownus of the business is they'll sell your car at full retail value, then they take a marketing fee + a commission.
It's a scam. They made promises to me that they would be able to sell my car within 2 weeks and didn't deliver on those promises.
Four months passed by and I never heard from them once. No calls "just to check-in," no calls to recommend adjustments in the marketing strategy.
I had to call them and hound them. Only them did they make up excuses about why they couldn't sell it (it needs work, it's a tough car to sell, etc., etc.). If I hadn't contacted them, I guarantee that car would've sat on a lat for a year before anyone even remembered it was there.
My car is a 2000 Volkswagen in good condition. Not a cream-puff, but certainly something I could sell on Craig's List within a few weeks with some time and effort. I have realistic expectations on selling this car, but these guys sat on their rear-ends.
My real frustration isn't that they couldn't sell it...my frustration is in the fact that they promised they would easily be able to sell it just to pay a marketing fee ($650). They made empty promises and had no real intention of keeping those promises.
Then they made up the excuses as to why they couldn't sell it. Why am I hearing about these supposedly reasons after they took my money??? They didn't do anything to sell my car
Then when I decided I'm just going to sell it on my own, they won't refund the money claiming "the money's been put into marketing the car." Yuh right. Obviously their marketing hasn't done a thing.
It's a scam...don't deal with them. Please -- for your own sake. Ultimately it's my fault that I lost the $650, but I want to make sure it doesn't happen to anyone else!
I'm probably gonna shy away from it anyway because it has since racked up some tall miles, and the asking price is way high.
But I had to wonder how much I would need to worry about that title record, in case I should find something like that on an otherwise more viable alternative.
Tish, tish, tish...
On the positive side, if you have a written contract with the company guaranteeing a sale within a certain amount of time, or explicitly listing the marketing exposure your fee buys (and you can prove you did not get this), you may have a leg to stand on in small claims court. However, considering the modus operandi of the company, even if there is a contract, it may written so that is is practically unenforceable.
Now; Assume all parties are honest and truthful.
Query: Does Roger have any legal claim against John under CA law? (Any California Lawyers out there?) Remember, Roger paid full agreed price in cash, signed the bill of sale and took possesion of the car and title papers.
Query: What's the "Right thing to do"? Should John
a) pay to have the car repaired? (at least half the selling price)
b) take the car back?
c) pay half or some other portion of the cost of repairs?
d) tell Roger to sue if he thinks he has a case?
e) something else not yet thought of?
And can Roger compel any of the above through the courts?
Anybody have a thought?
:confuse:
"won't pass CA smog test without repair."
Those two statements don't go together.
In my state, a used car is sold as is, unless the seller is an automotive professional, like a mechanic. John can tell Roger to go climb a tree.
The buyer is an idiot for going to his mechanic AFTER he's paid. It's done the other way 'round, and for a reason.
But, if the car was promised to be "excellent" and now really won't pass smog, that's not right. If they were friends -- it doesn't sound like they are now -- the seller should take the car back to keep the peace. The buyer should pay the transaction costs, if any.
(Notice I'm done with this John & Roger business.)
If they are strangers, I think the seller's mechanic should try to get the car smog certified, but that's only if the car was truly represented as being in great condition. It's the right thing to do, but not required. If it can't be certified, then I don't know.
I think they both should start behaving like grownups. "Excellent shape" and "ten years old" my foot.
-Mathias
in Mid-MI, where ten-year-old cars usually don't look so hot & nobody expects them to be perfect...
Good point if vehilce was advertised as being "excellent".
But, seller disclosed maintenance records and history.
Seller "owes" nothing...not even an explaination. Though if it were myself I would probably offer a couple hundred bucks to help with repairs.
Unless he actively worked to convince Roger not to have the car inspected, he did everything correctly..
Ten-year-old cars are sold "as-is". Caveat emptor..
Unfortunately, Roger is never going to believe that John didn't know about the problem... but, if John's conscience is clear, then that is all that matters.
regards,
kyfdx
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If the car is 10+ plus years old, what does he expect? How much is he out anyway? Hope he learns his lesson!
If I remember correctly, even if the smog is done two weeks ago, in a private party deal, it has to be resmogged by the new owner?
a nice simple answer that i completely echo.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I sold a 150k Mercury Topaz (10 years old) to a kid who played around with the engine and blew it up within the 1st week. Came to me screaming that he was going to sue me. My response: "Go ahead, make my day."
Thanks for your help.
And I'd have to agree.
$3k max ... and a salvage title means half that. So $1500 is all the beans, in my book.
However, seeing as how Civics fetch more than used gold on the market, I could see stretching to $2k if a mechanic (make sure he's experienced in spotting body work, too) gives it the green light.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S