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  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    reasonable and prudent, and accurate.

    Question #3 - totally useless, profit generating BS. Definitely NOT recommended by the manufacturer.

    If it's not in your manual, don't do it - same with engine oil "flushes" - they cause more problems than they help.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    Thanks Jim, I was pretty sure of the answer. I appreciate your feedback! However, I just thought 30,000 mile automatic transmission service was kind of a industry norm. Extending the auto tranny service till 60,000 miles is new to me. Plus, the service team at Jones Pontiac in Lancaster, PA. seemed straightforward enough, nevertheless; I have never heard of a 2 part automatic transmission service (Automatic Transmission Flush with "BG Quick Clean and Conditioner" at the 15,000 mile service and the Automatic Transmission "Filter service with BG trans conditioner" at the 30,000 mile service)????

  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    flush, has been around for a few years and is a great profit center for dealerships and private shops.

    The problem is that new cars (under 80k miles) don't need them, and older cars can have major problems after one of these operations. The engine flush, for instance, can break loose all kinds of gunk that gets trapped in the oil pomp screen and has been known to cause engine failure.

    So much for the preventive maintenance nature of that operation....

    The "conditioners" are simply a profit add-on - if they were really necessary, the manufacturer would recommend or mandate them in your manual. There's a lot of fluff in the typical dealership service department's major service menu. If it's on the manufacturer's list (not the dealers), then you should have it done.

    The frequency of transmission servive varies by manufacturer and by severity of service. My PT GT, for instance, does not require a transmission maintenance at all if you drive it lightly. The turbo version, on one in more sever service, requires a service every 48k miles.

    Typically, once every two years keeps me sleeping at night, knowing I'm not neglecting my ride.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,604
    I now believe that trans service, an oil change, should be done at 36 K or 3 years. I did not change my LeSabre until 65K. My service manager said I should have changed it sooner to keep the additives fresh; they deteriorate with age as well as with mileage and temperature of unit while in use. He felt it had 'sludge' a little before I changed it.

    The trans had developed a TCC lockup control valve wear problem that's in some TH65 transmissions by 75K.

    If you can drop the pan and refill it yourself at 36K that's ideal. I don't think I would change the filter until 72K unless there is a lot of particle goop in the bottom of the pan. The gasket on GM TH65 is rubber and reuseable, so there's no need to purchase a gasket even to do an oil change.

    I have an 03 LeSabre. IT will be changed at 36K, but no filter.

    A do-it-yourself change of engine or transmission fluids is a cheap insurance rather than running more miles than running longer up to manufacturer's maximums potentially with dirty/weak fluids.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    car, and most fluids are also cheap. It kills me when somone tries to consistently get an extra couple thousand miles out of a $19.95 oil change. The financial mistake made by doing this is hundreds of times more costly than the few dollars extra you put out by changing your oil on time.

    I disagree on the transmission filter issue, though. The filter can trap particles that can become dislodge from the filter and recirculate through your transmission. To me, that's as bad, and as financially foolish, as changing your oil but not springing for a $3 filter. Transmission kits are usually less than $20 and since it's only done once every two years or so, spend the money and sleep better.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,604
    I understand your point. I didn't realize particles could go through the filter. I thought it has a paper element for my TH65E. I didn't cut one of the old ones in half to see.

    It's a 20$ filter and gasket set for my car. I don't think the filter is available separately. Maybe you can tell me that it is. NAPA?

    Since the rubber gasket is reuseable, I changed my fluid every 5K after the alleged gunking at 75K. Two more fluid changes without filter. That freshened up the additives in all the fluid (only 60% at most gets replaced on a drain and fill).
    Now I'm about due for another at 105K. If I can buy a filter, I'd do that.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    it seems they thrown in a gasket - many of the transmission filters are cork and require replacement every time - consider yourself lucky with the rubber gasket.

    It's not a matter of the particles going through the filter, it's a matter of the filter trapping junk, then letting it go again - easy enough to do with new fluid and the swishing around that the fluid does.

    I just want to eliminate all possibility of metal fragments cruising around in the fluid, looking for a bearing surface to mess up.
  • pdiaspdias Posts: 2
    I have changed th oil for the gearbox due to oil leak through the gasket. Since then the gear are not shifting, just running in the drive mode, what is the problem what can be done, How can i check the oil level.SLK 230 covertible 1999 model
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,604
    At 65K and 3.5 years, the fluid still looked new red and smelled like fresh Dextron but with an aged smell not burned. I just didn't see the need to change earlier, but I didn't want to go to the recommended 100K change time.

    But my service manager sounded like shellacing could occur after additives are used up. He liked my theory of using new fluid to redissolve some shellac or gunk (if any occurred), but draining old which has dissolved some and adding new a couple of times. It did improve the shift quality, but the TCC lockup is still leaking past the sliding piston. I'm going to check into getting it repaired cheaply if I can. I want to keep the car.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    change fluids rapidly a few times makes sense.

    I've done that on the older used cars I've bought, especially the two that we autocross.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I figure that for the hassle of draining the fluid, cleaning the pan, cleaning up the spilled oil, burning my arm on the exhaust pipe, yada yada, changing the filter is not that much trouble. These 30K recommended changes are a joke unless you are pulling heavy horsepower,or trailer, or both. I have seen a GM dealership that recommended servicing EVERY 15K. Talk about overkill. People need to know that with the transmission, unlike engine oil, you are not dealing with combustion by-products. Want to help your tranny in hot climates? Install an external fluid cooler. Gives you more protection than that 30k service will.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    services are a joke.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It's a 4T65-E transaxle, there is no TH65. Here's the fix for a worn TCC regulator valve bore:

    P.S. There's no "t" in Dexron.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Question 1: Yes
    Question 2: Yes
    Question 3: NO!
  • crankshaftcrankshaft OHIOPosts: 105
    i cannot find the ignition module on my 91 mercury cougar is not on the distributor.i looked on the fender wells but no luck.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    Thank you Mr. Murray for responding to my questions pertaining to transmission service on our new 2004 Pontiac Vibe. I respect your opinion and appreciate your response.

  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Your welcome, but I was just echoing the responses before me.
    Seroiusly though, the flushes have their place, but realistically, if your transmission needs the flush, then the damage has already been done and flushing it is only going to make things worse.
    Regular servicing is the way to extend the life of your transmission.
  • Does anyone have an answer?

    I have a 2000 Bonneville SLE. Each and every time it rains or snows, the car takes a good 3 seconds to begin stopping. (Very scary in an emergency stop). However, after they "warm" up (or dry out), they have no issues stopping. If I drive for about 10 minutes, they again take a good 3 seconds to begin stopping. Though when it is dry out, there are no problems.

    The problem seemed to be getting worse so I took the car into the shop and had the brakes completely redone -- all pads and rotors completely replaced. The dealer said they had a lot of glazing, but otherwise they couldn't see anything. Well, the problem is better, but it is still there.

    When it rains or snows, it now takes only a good full second to begin stopping. There has been a previous posting on this #546 with the same problem description. The answer to that posting stated that it was probably just due to very heavy rain. However in the exact same weather, this does not happen in my other car. In fact, it doesn't have to be raining very hard at all for this problem to occur. This seems to be an issue with this car only.

    Does anyone know of a solution?
  • tunatuna Posts: 1
    I bought a civic EX 5 speed on 1/01. 33,000 miles later, i've recently encountered this puzzling problem. I will hear a click - click noise coming from the somewhere in the glove compartment area. The warning lights on the dash come on with the noise and the car loses power while driving almost stalling the engine. It happens at least 5 times a day everyday. I have taken it back to the dealership. They said they drove it and it hasn't acted up so they can't find the problem. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  • gatesaygatesay Posts: 2
    Hello, I'm looking for some advice on correcting the valvetrain noise on my 2.2L Accord. I just replaced the head with a rebuild one, adjusted all the tapets accourding to spec, set the timing gears to the proper spots. The car starts fine but makes a lot of valve noise and has very little power when test drove.
    Any ideas?

    I was wondering about setting the timing from the distrubiture but can't seem for figure out how that can be done since only two of the mounts are sloted and the center hole in the head where the cam drives the dist is tight with the o-ring seal (two fixed points, the fixed hole mount and the dist drive)?

    Thank you,
  • gatesaygatesay Posts: 2
    Ok, Stupid me, I figured out why the noisy valvetrain. My feeler gauge was ASE not mm. Now that I have set them to the proper mm it is much quiter.

    I still can't figure out the distribture thing. Only two of the three mounts are slotted, with the center drive hold fitting tight with a o-ring seal, how the heck would you be able to turn the thing.
    I tried anyway, but of course could only bump it a fraction either way. ????
  • nybill38nybill38 Posts: 12

    I have a 1990 Mitsubishi Sigma 3.0 V6. I just got it and have recently changed fluids, anti freeze, oil and transmission fluid. I'm noticing a leak that appears to be coming from the back side of the engine towards the top on the left side just above the appears to be oil based on color...I recently had the brake fluid changed also but don't think this is what it is. Any idea's of where this could be coming from and how to correct it.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You could check the back of the valve cover, clean it up and then see after running the engine. Or there could be a sensor back there, not sure. Brake fluid has a distinct smell and will dry up your skin if you touch it.
  • Hi

    I have a 1999 ML430. My eng check light came on. I read the obd2 code as P0170 and P0173. I know what these are BUT not how to fix them. Anyone with ideas of what are the things that I should be checking for would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    P0170 (right bank)& P0173 (left bank) are fuel trim codes.
    Check for vacuum leaks, air intake leaks (air cleaner tube), incorrect fuel pressure, bad fuel pressure regulator or faulty injectors.

    Since both banks are affected, I would be inclined to think you have an intake leak.
  • Hi

    Thanks - I will check them out. It sounded expensive
  • uafuaf Posts: 1
    A few days ago the horn on my 2001 Nissan Sentra just went dead (no other problems with electronics).....would anyone happen to know how I can fix this (or at least take a look at things) without taking my car to the dealership and being bled through the nose??
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Pretty likely you are goind to have to go to the dealer.
    It may be a problem with the clockspring, which is part of the airbag system and something that should be done by a reputable shop.
    But, it may also be the horn relay. The horn relay is in the Relay box, mounted in the engine compartment on the passenger side.
    If you are standing on the passenger side, the horn relay will be the second one from the left. It should be marked E49.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    find a used horn, plug it in and see if it works. Some designs will let water splash into the horn bell and ruin the horn. My '00 GMC Sierra went through three horns in three years. Each time the horn was full of water and shorted out. The bell of the horn should face down and in a location that water from the front wheels cannot routinely splash into it.
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