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  • Any other VVTi problems out there on this model '03GS300). Appears as a 'knock' during a cold start. Should I be alarmed if the Variable Valve Timing Intelligence has to be replaced on a 2003 GS 300 with 5,800 miles. After being totally trampled at the service department of the Volvo dealership where I purchased my prior automobile ('98 S70 Lemon), I vowed to be better informed this time. Please help, the car should be ready today (they have had it for five days now).
  • My mother's reliant is becoming "un-reliable".
    I assume the auto transmission is nearly dead. She tells me that when she puts it "in gear", sometimes it "doesn't go like it should, doesn't move at all". I drove it several weeks ago and noticed a "jerk" when moving the lever from Park to Reverse. Also, I noticed that it hesitates when moving it from Park to Drive. It is a 4 cylinder engine with auto transmission and 80K miles. She bought it new and it has been basically trouble free until now.

    My question is this: What should I expect to pay for a transmission rebuild on a '88 Reliant? And should the work be done by the local Chrysler dealer or would the parts be available to any reputable mechanic? Are transmission problems common in the old K-cars?
  • I have a 2000 VW Gold TDI with 82,000 miles on it. Overall very satisfied with this car, not my first VW diesel, drove two VW Dasher Diesels before it (1981's).

    Over the last year and 10,000 miles or so I have gradually become aware of a loss of power when I hit hills. I've been taking the same route acroos PA on Rt. 80. If I recall, it used to be that I could keep cruise control on almost the whole route from Cleveland to Altoona. Then it became necessary to downshift to 4th gear to maintain speed on some of the steeper climbs.

    Now, however, it is getting worse. At times going up steep hills I will have to downshift to 3rd gear to maintain a speed of 50-55, when the speed limit is 65. I feel a little like one of my bigger diesel cousins, the 18-wheelers who have to build up steam to make the next hill and immediately pull into the right lane halfway up.

    I have scheduled an appt with VW service later this week. What would be a possible cause of this loss of power? Is a compression check in order? Could the clutch be slipping? I don't even know what it is like when the clutch slips lol! Any help would be appreciated.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    sentimentally tied to this car, don't consider a rebuild/replacement - you're looking at between $1500-2000, depending on the shop. Considering the car's real world value ($500-1000), it's not worth it, in my opinion.

    You could donate the car to a charity, and pick up a nice ride for a little more than the $2000, if you're looking for something inexpensive.
  • In the past month my 2003 Caravan ( bought Nov. 28/03) has had to have the transmission cooling line replaced and the connection to the radiator tightened, then it had a power steering cooling line leak due to a stretched hose clamp. Both times I was told it was due to the cold weather. Is this a *normal* thing or am I right to believe my van is a lemon? There are thousands of these vans made but no one else I talk to has this problem. I was told that I should not drive it when it is cold out. I warm it up 10-15 min before I drive it. This sounds like a crock to me.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I guess it depends on what you mean by "cold". If it is extreme cold, sure metals contract and expand. But if you aren't at an Arctic research station right now, it sounds like you're just having assembly line problems. The dealers are supposed to go over the vehicle before they deliver it to you and catch these normal abnormalities, but some dealers are more diligent than others about this.

    RELIANT TRANS -- have a trans service done and see what happens. It's only $60-100 and it sometimes cures little burps like this. Worth a shot.

    If the trans. really does go south, I agree, it's time for the boneyard for this car, or sell it to someone who might put a used trans in on their own time.
  • I have a 1994 Plymouth Voyager 3.0 V6 runs a little rough with 228000 miles on it.

    I have replaced the timing belt twice and done everything to keep it running right but I can't seem to fix a vibration problem that seems to be in the front end somewhere.

    I have replaced the struts once but it may be time for them again. It has been about 100,000 miles since the last time. It has new tires and rims and was just aligned.

    I have also replaced the motor mounts back in 1997 or so.

    I have replaced both axles about a year ago. Anyone have any advice? Where should I start next?
  • New to this forum -- discovered a coolant leak on my 97 Chevy with 5.7 votec. Leak seems to be coming from around top of engine near the rocker panels. Mechanic said very common on these engines and need to replace gaskets -- about $400. Mentioned GM is aware of problem and was considering a recall to repair. Any comments with similar problems and suggestions.
  • mpurpmpurp Posts: 16
    Hi I have a 1989 2500 with about 240,000 miles.
    I am starting to hear squeaking from the steering
    wheel when I am turning it. Does anybody know where and how to grease what is squeaking?

    Thanks in advanced,
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    i had same problem with my ford.not sure if yours is built same way.if your horn switch is on the steering wheel,there is a set of brushes and slip ring within the steering wheel.the connections for cruise and the horn are made thru these.on mine there was debris from the brushes causing my squeek.a little cleaning with an eraser fixed the problem.good luck
  • morehpmorehp Posts: 30
    The windshield wipers on my 93 Camry have been operating slowly but adequately for a couple of years. Yesterday they slowed to a crawl, barely making their way back and forth. No funny noises or anything like that.

    I suspect the wiper linkage is seizing up. My question is: Can this be lubricated/repaired? Or does the linkage require replacement?

    Thanks for any help you can provide!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Those motors are pretty powerful. If there is binding I don't think lubrication is going to do it; either there is a serious mechanical bind or the motor itself is dying. You might try lifting the blades up so they don't touch the windshield and running them and testing the resistance with your hand (carefully). If you can stop them with two fingers that's not good. I think you can pop off the fresh air cowl and perhaps access the linkage. You can look for a conspicuously bend arm, totally worn and loose linkage bushings, an obstruction of some sort or the smell of a burning motor.
  • morehpmorehp Posts: 30
    I'll go have a (careful) look after work :)
  • I own a 99 Tahoe with 45,000 miles and have all ready replaced the fan belt by the dealer at around 30,000 miles. The problem with the fan belt is that it squeals every time it rains. The first time the dealer said that the belt was bad and he replaced it after much discussion about my warranty and the expected life span of belts now days. The new belt fixed the problem but after only 15,000 miles the squealing is back. I had it in for service with my mechanic and he said that he would check the idler tension arm to see if it was loose and it wasn’t. So my question is if the idler tension arm is ok what could be causing the belts to prematurely fail and squeal? A friend of mine owns a 2000 Suburban and has the same problem. Could this be an engineering defect? I have owned a lot of cars and have never had a belt go bad under 100,000 miles.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    when it rains - it's slipping slightly, more than likely. Heat and friction dry out the wet areas, and it quits squealing. Nothing to worry about.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    GM OEM belts, last ones I bought, and Ford OEM belts appear to be made by Dayton with similar materials. I have had enough of the squealing myself, and changing to a Gates belt with a different rubber compound fixed it for good. it's also said the Goodyear Gatorback belts are also non-squeal.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Something to try.

    General 'road oil' might be on the drive pulleys.

    Remove the belt. Get your 409 or Simple Green cleaner. Get your toothbrush.

    Using the cleaner and toothbrush, clean all the ribbed drive pulleys. Wipe up the drool as you are working.

    This might cure the squeals.

    Oh, yes. Buy a new toothbrush.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    I tried anhydrous isopropyl alcohol before replacing my belts... it won't penetrate and hose up the rubber... and since there was no oil to remove, didn't help.

    just a quick advisory, since we know YOU know this, but somebody might not... you have to clean the belts and pulleys with the engine OFF and all the keys in your pocket. pull the DC wires off the coil packs if you have to to be sure the engine is not going to start up when you do this. you only get one set of arms and fingers, and trying to work with a moving belt system insures you will lose at least part of the set.
  • i have a 1984 volvo dl with a bad clutch cable.

    does anyone have any tips on replacing the clutch cable? i am going to the junkyard tomorrow to pick up a cable and lookin to swap it into my car but i'm not positive what i'll have to deal with. any tips or directions would be greatly appreciated. thanks,

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I think it's pretty straightforward. As I recall it's a one-piece component, that is, with the inner cable, outer sheath and adjustment nut all together. You just hook it up on both ends, bolt it into the firewall at make the adjustments. You'd want maybe 1/2" of free play (no resistance) at the clutch pedal when you press it down gently. Oh, and shoot some lubricant in the cable where it goes into the sheath, and grease it with some white grease on the exposed parts of the cable. They break because they get dry and start corroding and sticking.

    I'm not sure a junkyard cable is a good idea either.
  • This is another question regarding my 1997 Olds Achieva. Recently while driving, I noticed the speedometer would "jump" anywhere from five to 15 miles per hour higher (for instance, driving at 45, the needle would bounce up to 60 then back). I'm also beginning to wonder about the accuracy of the speedometer. Can anybody tell me whether, in their opinion, this is an instrument cluster problem or a speed sensor problem? And how much do you think it would cost to replace a speed sensor? Thanks.
  • rencorenco Posts: 38
    I was watching monster garage. They were building a rock crawler and were talking about torque, they said it had over 10000ft/lbs (can't remember exact #) compared that to a honda sedan (i think they said honda) which has about 5000ft/lbs.

    My question is what numbers are they quoting? All honda sedans have less than 300ft/lbs per honda.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Remember that the folks who put these shows on are not mechanics.
    According to the info I have, you are correct, that the torque is about 300 ft lbs for the Hondas.
    Any gas engine will have a lower torque value than horsepower, where as the oposite is true for diesels. So, if what they said were true, you would be looking at a vehicle with over 5,000 hp.
    Not likely.
    I never watch that show, so I am not certain what machine they were talking about, but I would consider the source.
    The last one I saw of that show, they thought a Cummins deisel engine only weighed about 800 lbs.
    I wish, it'd make my job a whole lot easier.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Axle torque = engine torque x trans gear ratio x final drive (diff) gear ratio

    The #1 function of a transmission is to multiply engine torque, so if we use a hypothetical engine with 300 ft/lbs, 1st gear ratio of 4:1, and final drive ratio of 3:1, we get 300 x 4 x 3 or 3,600 ft/lbs at the axles.
  • rencorenco Posts: 38
    Thanks Alcan. Some more questions. So when a vehicle is put on the dyno why are the torque and power shown on the computer in the hundreds. Shouldn't the torque atleast be in the thousands? Also does axle horsepower work the same way as axle torque, should it also be in the thousands? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I really wish the industry would stop using the term "torque" altogether and use "cylinder pressure", which is the proper engineering term and easier to get a grip on.
  • rencorenco Posts: 38
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    against air, you release no energy for work. against a load, you generate an amount of motion energy that can move the load with your cylinder pressure as the fuel explodes. when you standardize the measurement of that motion energy from the displacement, you get what we presently refer to as torque.

    that still works for me, shifty. pressure and displacement together makes work. all pressure and no displacement is like the circus acts who lie in a coffin while somebody blows a half crate of dynamite a foot away. lotsa noise signifying nothing.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    cylinder pressure + displacement make torque, and torque + rpm makes horsepower. So cylinder pressure is the "prime mover" so to speak.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I need to replace the trunk lid weathstripping on my "new"/old BMW 735i. There is talk about a "releasing agent" to help get up the old stripping. Anyone know what that toxic brew might be? Also, should I use 3M weatherstripping adhesive (ghastly mess but it STICKS) or is there something better? And finally (phew!), how do you get the 3M weatherstripping adhesive off your nose and license plates? What's the solvent for that?


    PS: Never though a piece of rubber could cost $75, but it's better than wet running shoes.
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