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  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    a competent shop in my area - I'm sorry, I just don't trust some of these monkeys.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    the dealer bunch ought to know how to drain and fill and tranny, and might even get the new filter and gasket right-side-up. that and bolt torque are about all there is to it.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    of the transmission fluid out.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    That doesn't seem to be the problem. What's the next thing you'd check for?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Hmmm.... any chance there's a windshield water leak?
  • Overfill the transmission. I think an A4LD for example can take an extra seven quarts before you totally fill up the case. Foaming won't be a problem for idle pump out. So, add two extra quarts and pump out three. That is the way I have done it and it keeps the pump from running dry. Since most torque converters don't have a drain plug now, all you can do is keep mixing till you get most of it out. I still like pan dropping when I get a high mileage transmission. My experience, at least with Fords, is they continue to dump a lot of sediment from torque converter etc for a while with new fluid. I throw a five extra magnets in and three months later they are all pretty fuzzy and the rag comes out black from the pan. I have an 89 Cherokee and at 135K that pan was spotless. So the recomendation should be handled on a case by case basis. If you have sediment, there is plenty more still in the transmission and multiple pan drops are the way to go until it is clean.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    this stuff is $10 a quart....
  • My '89 Toyota truck (105K miles) and '93 Ford van(75K miles) currently suffer from leaky seals. Although I tried to change oil regularly and do other routine maintenance, I wonder what, if anything, can be done to prevent such problems on my newer vehicles. Searching the archives makes it looks like leaky seals are not so unusual, but they sure cost a lot of $$ to fix. Any hints out there to extend seal life? Thanks.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Another possibility, is there a "fresh/recirc" setting on the Tercel HVAC system? If so, it may be set to recirculate which will fog the windows like crazy, since the humidity just builds up inside the car.

  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    unfortunately there is not much anyone can do to extend seal life.old age causes the materials to dry out and harden or the seal just wears out.frequently, cars in storage will have seal problems too.on newer engines seals fail due to improper installation or poor design.
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    can anyone tell me where the ignition module is located on a 91 cougar with the 3.8 v6?it is not mounted on the distributor like other TFI modules of the past.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    It looks like, from Ford's info, that it is behind the passenger side headlamp or just toward the right of the passenger headlamp.
    If you look behind the grill, about the area between the radiator and the airbox, it should be in there somewhere.
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    many thanks,i will look there.
  • my girl's car continues to abort the smog check test. It is a 1991 Toyota Celica. It is unable to maintain a steady speed in order complete the test. (the smog test requires a steady speed at 15mph and another fixed point). The speed keeps dropping and rising. could it be something with the airflow sensors or something like that? didnt know where else to put this, couldnt find anything in the search. thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    This could be related to a lot of things. A bad injector comes to mind (poor spray pattern) and also a vacuum leak such as from the intake manifold. Sounds like the air/fuel mixture is changing, so either air is coming and going (vacuum leak) or fuel is coming and going (injector).

    But a bad plug wire is also possible. Maybe a good tune up will cure it, and testing for a vacuum leak isn't that hard.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Read post #24 in this topic.
  • I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE Automatic with 145K miles. It had 68K miles when I bought it in '99 and has provided near flawless service since.

    Last week I noticed that the tachometer showed 2500 rpm at highway speeds (75+ mph) and the shift was in D and the OD was on. It ran at the higher-than-normal revs for over 100 miles and later dropped to the normal 1800 rpm. Problem has not recurred.

    Question: Is it time to flush and change Transmission fluid? Or, does the Maxima have a sealed unit that does not require the fluid replaced? If yes, What is the recommended frequency? I have not done an ATF changeout in the last 5 years.

    Would appreciate any feedback / similar experience.
  • My '95 Mazda was in the shop last week for a cooling system check (had been running a little warm), and the mechanic left the radiator cap on "half cocked" when he was done.

    Drove the car about 150 miles, then it suddenly overheated - warped heads, blown head gaskets, leaking radiator, O2 sensors ruined.

    Mechanic says not his fault - car was running warm previously. I say has never gotten this hot (before or since), so loose radiator cap is prime suspect.

    Can anyone confirm or deny either argument?


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Argument somewhat in your favor, but without full knowledge of the situation, don't quote me.

    A pressurized cooling system has a higher boiling point than a non-pressurized system. Something like 2 lbs pressure raises boiling point 1 degree (did I get that right, guys?).

    So yes, a cooling system with relieved pressure would boil over sooner than one with pressure.

    However, if your car had a pre-existing condition, it could be argued that this was an inevitable result regardless of cap on or off.

    Were I Solomon the Great, I would decree that the mechanic accept a partial responsibility and give you a break on parts or labor, without admitting any "guilt".
  • Hi, I bought a 97 prelude with the auto tran in sept. It is a great car...the only thing that I notice is when I start to accelerate from stop I sometimes hear a little creaking noise from the front passenger side wheel area. Its just a brief noise - like 1/4 sec. I only hear this when the temperature is below 32F. If I go for a long drive it will then go away when I accelerate. The car only has 51,700km (32,300 miles)on it and the brakes were serviced 6000km ago. Could it be just stiffness in that shock since it seems to occur below freezing? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Yeah, probably the shock mount is protesting a bit. If you don't hear anything when it's warmed up, or when you hit a hard bump, I wouldn't worry about it. Perhaps when you next get new tires and a wheel alignment, you can have the shock mounts looked at, or just replace them next time you do struts---about 70K-80K miles would be a good time.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,651
    I just purchased a 2004 Ford Explorer XLS 4x4, and it's equipped with the tire pressure monitoring system, I know sensors in the factory wheels transmit continual readings to a control module on board. I want to use aftermarket wheels and tires for winter/snow use and I need to know what conflicts I'll have to deal with when not using factory wheels (if that can be done).

    It seems to me that with the sensors (inside the wheels) transmitting a signal, warning lights will be activated and drivability problems may crop up without these readings. Can you explain if I can do this or not?
  • Hey What up I have a 1986 Buick Riviera, and it has a Graphic Control Center. The thing is that the radio went bad on it, and I want to put a cd player I have in the car. I can't find where the radio is. IF any one can help me out it would be awesome thanks.

  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 274
    My power steeering pump works fine, but makes a whiny sound. Someone suggested I add a little "hi-tac" (sp?) to the fluid to quiet it.

    Anyone heard of this stuff and/or if it or any additive can quiet the pump?
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 274
    Ask over at, I've had success with them.
  • does anyone know the answer to my question? the lights i want to install into my vehicle have a cigarette lighter adapter, can i cut that off, splice it, and run the connections positive and to ground and not ruin the light or my vehicle?
  • The vehicle (98 Jeep Wrangler Sport) has a knock in the steering when I turn left or right and when I go over a bump. Wonder what input everyone might have. I thought maybe cv joints the forward cylinder. It is a solid single knock and seems reminicent of air in a hydraulic cylinder.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    That's a relatively simple job for someone with knowledge of automotive electrical systems. However, no offence meant, the fact that you're asking indicates that you'd probably be better off having someone with electrical experience do the hookup. Hit the wrong wire and you could fry the engine control computer or catch a faceful of airbag.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    more likely, you will roach the powerpack for that neon tube if you hook up the +12 and -12 volts wrong. but if you have to ask, you should have a local tech familiar with the stuff do it, and if s/he is so inclined, show you which wire goes where for your future reference.

    alcan makes a very real and important point... you absolutely have to know WHICH wire in the car harness to fiddle with, or it's big trouble in a modern vehicle. big trouble at a half-stick of dynamite worth if you set off an airbag.
  • I just repaired a broken wire to a headlight and installed a new battery in a 2000 Grand Am. Started car and parked it outside overnight.

    Now the key won't turn in the switch. Tried another key, same thing. Key works o.k. in door.

    Dearler said check battery connection - it seems o.k..

    What gives? Did the ignition switch just go bad by coincidence to my repairs?
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