Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Got a Quick, Technical Question?

13567190

Comments

  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    if your wheels are slightly turned you may have to hold your steering wheel away from locking stop point.otherwise you may have a damaged lock clyinder.hopefully it does not go beyond that because something might have broke in the steering columm.i vote for the first solution.
  • Let me preface this by saying this my first car at age 43.We bought a 1997 Achieva this past Tuesday with over 112,000 miles on it.As we were coming back from Wal-Mart this afternoon we came to a red light and stopped.When the light turned dreen we pushed down on the accelerator pedal and the car just went very slowly with alot of hesitation and no power.We eventually got the car over to the middle of the road where a policeman pushed it over to the side of the road.I had thought it was out of gas.So we ran down to the gas station and got 2 gallons of gas and put it in it.The car started up like a dream and had alot power.Only thing is is that shift lever would not move out of park when we pushed down on the brake .The cop told me how hard it was for him to move the lever from 3rd gear to park.Has anybody got answers to what could be the problem is????This totally ruined a night of going to high school basktball games for us.Very ,very disappointing.The best thing was when the police cruiser showed up.
  • n198uan198ua Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Mercury Sable with approx 70K miles. Recently, I've noticed at highway speeds, there tends to be a vibration coming from the front of the vehicle, kind of like going over road bumps. However, the part of this vibration that I can't seem to understand is that its a "rolling vibration" Its not constant, but rather it starts and stops in regular intervals. For example, the vibration will last 1-2 seonds and then stop, then 5-15 seconds later start again. The process will continue until I reduce speed. My question is; I am overdue to have the tires roated and balanced, and I'm hoping this will take care of it. However, my concern is that there is more to this than the tires. Could it have something to do with the transmission?
  • abby18abby18 Posts: 2
    My 2000 Tundra SR-5 does not make a sound if you turn off the engine and exit the vehicle with the headlights on. How should I begin to troubleshoot the absence of an aural warning that the lights are on. Is there a fuse dedicated to that circuit? I'm not sure where to start. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    Tire balance is of course the easiest and cheapest first step.

    With 70K miles you could have wear in the axle (CV) joints certainly, which could create the weird harmonics you describe.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • 99 Deville, 52,000 miles. Cold morning car started and ran just fine. Mid day battery dead. Took to shop, new battery. One week later, started on cold morning, went to church, battery dead after 1 hour (at least it seemed dead). Went back to jump a while later, started right up.

    I don't even know enough about cars to make me dangerous. But in my experience if a battery is going to have problems from the cold, it will be in the morning, not after it's already started and hasn't even cooled down completely. Any ideas about possible intermittent cold-related problems?

    Thanks,

    -lance
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Generally when you have a battery that is going dead on cold mornings, then it is a battery going bad.
    But, before you condemn the battery, have the battery terminals checked and the battery load tested.
    Your symptoms lead me to believe you have a loose or dirty battery terminal or connection.
    Generally when a battery goes bad from cold, it will continue to be a problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    Yep, cables or connection---or---rare case of a bad battery out of the box. Sounds too quick for a battery drain, especially since it starts up again. Draining a new battery completely in only one hour would require leaving a lighthouse on or something like that.

    Another long shot--a starter motor armature or brushes that are wearing out.

    TRY THIS---next time it happens, turn your headlights on and either you (in the dark) or a bystander in the daylight observe a) if the lights go on with the "dead" battery. If NO, battery or cables are bad. If YES,they do go on, turn the key to start and see if they go off. If YES, they do go off, it's a battery issue probably ---but if NO, they still burn bright, then it's a starter issue possibly or an ignition key or some such.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    I agree Mr Shiftright.
    With more and more of these new vehicles using a starter relay, I have seen many of these have the relays fail.
  • jsal1jsal1 Posts: 1
    Looking for advice on a reacurring problem with this vehicle. My daughter just moved up from Flordia, it seemed everytime there was a heavy down pour, she would have a loss of power, check engine light would come on The same problem is happening here in upstate NY. Car starts fine these cold mornings no problem, heavy moisture in the air, engine starts to run bad. Any suggestions? This engine does not come with a distributer cap & rotor.
  • My 1989 Lincoln Continental was losing pixels on its odometer. So, I installed another instrument cluster I bought at a junk yard. However, the mileage on the cluster I installed shows a lot more than my original mileage. The electronic display itself is fine. Does anyone know, can I swap out the circuit board from my old odometer to the new with no problem? Will this recover my original mileage? Makes sense that it will, but I'm not sure. Ay help is greatly appreciated.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    my first guess would be a loss of HV. there are going to have to be coils and HV wires to the spark plugs. road salts, dust, crud, and corruption are likely suspects. use a rag soaked with windshield cleaner to clean the wires, coil and plug boots, and outsides of the coils.

    when everything is dry, I would also pull each boot and put a film of dielectric insulating grease inside each one, to keep moisture out.
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    are under a recall for coil pack failures. If the recommended maintenance doesn't do the trick, check with your dealer - the replacements are free.
  • i own a 1996 aurora, love the car however i have a noise that is consistant, when i accelerate from 0 up i hear a noise that sounds like a rattle of ice cubes in a glass, above 45 mph it goes away, does any one know what this might be? thanks jerry ward [email protected]
  • Sounds most like pre-ignition or knocking. Key contributors are low octane, advanced spark and running hotter than normal. I would try a good premium fuel like Amoco Gold or Mobil Super first. Also take note of your temperature gauge. The least likely issue is the timing since it is computer controlled.
  • don106don106 Posts: 4
    Can you tell me where the power window relay is in my 1987 Subaru wagon? Thanks
  • I have a automatic '99 Camry with 170K miles. The only maintenance I do(at dealer) is changing oil(5K)/air filter(30K)/xmission fluid(60K) /coolant(30K)/tires(80K). I have also changed the brake pads once at 100K. Battery, struts,CV joints all seem OK according to the dealer's service department. The engine is whisper quiet, gives no trouble and gives over 35mpg on highway. Question: What is it that will most likely go wrong first? Can I do any sort of preventive maintenance on that? Or even replace it? I do a lot of nighttime highway driving and would hate to get stranded.
    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    At 170K the car has statistically at least reached the end of its life. So really any mishaps are not predictable, as your engine, transmission, etc. are all on borrowed time.

    Hopefully, they will continue to function. The best approach is preventive maintenance. Tow trucks drivers insist that most break-downs are from rather simple components failing, like hoses, belts, tires, tune-up, that sort of thing.

    Some things seem absent from your list.

    Was the brake fluid ever flushed out?

    When was the timing belt last changed?

    Also, I'd drop your maintenance intervals on the transmission to 30K and your oil to 5K

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • i have a 1993 E300 that overheats.when the blower is kept on the temperature stays in the normal range. I have changed the radiator but the problem did not go away.What other areas should be checked to eliminate this problem.
  • Thanks for the reply. The brake fluid or the power steering fluid was never flushed out. I guess I will need to do that. The timing belt was changed at 60K and at 120K. The next one is planned for 210K. I do the engine oil at every 5K and I will drop the transmission fluid flush interval to 30K.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    Okay black tulip, great. Oh, I meant to change the oil interval to 3,000 miles, sorry---reason being that as an engine wears internally, more combustion gases can contaminate the oil through worn rings.

    You might also have the water pump looked at. If there is excessive play or any sign of slight weepage, that's a good thing to swap out before it breaks. Perhaps this was done along with the timing belt at 120K? Swapping out water pumps and timing belts at the same time is a logical sequence.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • rencorenco Posts: 38
    Whats the difference between turning circle, turning diameter, and turning radius?

    How does the center diff attach to the T case and both driveshafts?

    Whats the difference between a locking center diff and locking t case? Is one better than the other?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    A center diff is used for full time 4WD in conjunction with a transfer care, but a transfer case only is used for part-time 4WD that can be engaged and disengaged by the driver. The center diff prevents binding between front and rear differentials. I'm not sure what a locked transfer case is, unless you mean a full time 4WD system with a permanently engaged transfer case.

    A full time 4WD system with center diff is often referred to as AWD.

    There is no better or worse. It depends on vehicle type, driving conditions and the type of work you wish to do.

    A viscous coupling can substitute as an inter-axle differential in some cars.

    Turning circle and turning diameter are the same thing---the diameter of a circle made by a car in 360 degrees of locked steering. The radius of a circle is from the center point to its curved outer surface.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • rencorenco Posts: 38
    A transfer case is also used on permanent 4WDs like the Hummer and G Wagen.

    But the Hummer (H1) has a locking transfer case while the G has a locking center diff. I'm reall curious as to what the advantage/disadvantage of each is.

    Also I really can't figure out how the center diff on the G attaches to the t case. Any ideas?
  • 2001 wrangler sport. Airbag light has been on for several mo. and horn doesn't work. Any ideas? Thanks, Harry P.S. dashbord is dry, fuses good and replaced relay under hood.
  • On my 2000 Grand Am the Service Vehicle Soon light is on an chiming. Owners manual says this will happen "..if it detects a problem on the vehicle, such as a DRL or an ALC malfunction."

    What are DRL and ALC? Any specific things I can look at, do, replace? Is test equipment required?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like the clockspring connecting the steering column wiring harness to the steering wheel is broken. It should be replaced by a shop qualified to do airbag system repairs because a faceful of accidental airbag deployment can ruin your day.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    DRL is daytime running lights but I don't know the other one, sorry. Maybe your DRL relay is defective or the fusing for that circuit is out or the light itself is out?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    in any case, a tech should pull the computer codes with a scantool and follow the appropriate diagnostic tree (s) to narrow down the area of the fault and test to find the cause and solution.
  • RE #90. Some stuff to file under things you now know.

    Daytime running lights got me started. On same page in owners manual is Automatic Lights Control or some such thing.

    I have a headlight that is out. When I start the car during the day the Automatic Lights Control system must check for daytime running lights. One of mine is out, so it is telling me.

    After dark the automatic light system is not working, is not looking for daytime running lights and does not chime or signal. I guess it is up to me to see that I am missing a head light at night. That's reasonable.

    So the next time the temperature gets above 20 degrees I wil change the bulb.

    Thanks for the help.
Sign In or Register to comment.