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  • The blower fan for heat/ac was only working on Hi speed. I replaced the resistor which solved the problem for about 2 weeks before if failed. I replaced it again thinking I got a bad resistor and again it lasted about 2 weeks. Any suggestions on what is causing it to go out?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    This "resistor" was an actual part you got from the dealer or something you got at an electronics store or ??? Why weren't you tempted to replace the switch itself?
  • mark156mark156 Posts: 2,006
    I guess this is a general question that could fit any car. I have a '95 Mercedes Benz E-320 cabriolet with only 30,000 miles. I just put it in for service yesterday and the service guy said other than the normal tuneup that it will receive, that I should have the radiator flushed along with the brake fluid replaced and the tranny fluid changed.... is that a normal procedure with a low mileage, not driven much... car?

    Thanks, Mark156
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    generically, the radiator should have a flush and fill not less frequently than every two years. in the case of a Dex-Cool system, it needs to be inspected annually, and something like every 5 years it needs a flush and fill. the reason is that anticorrosive additives go away with time, and then electrolytic corrosion will start to occur, and this will also eat up the ethylene glycol. all you end up with is rusty water and perhaps some clogs. if it freezes in the engine, it cracks the block, and you need an engine. up here on the tundra, it's a religion to change this out every other year. don't make any of us excommunicate you :-D

    brake fluid in almost all systems (DOT3 or 4 based) is hygroscopic, absorbing water from the air, and wet brake fluid not only boils when you panic stop (causing brake fade) but gets rusty from corrosion at calipers, etc. and can plug orifices. a good idea to replace it every couple of years, otherwise, test by viewing at the bleeders and replace when corrosion becomes evident or color changes in the resivoir underhood.

    tranny fluid (ATF in particular) generally has friction modifiers (fibers or micropills) as well as very high levels of detergent. it helps clutches seat as gears change, and also carries away little worn off chunks of crud. it is a good thing to regularly drain off the offal picked up from the system, replace the filter, and refill. overstressed fluid suffers burning, chemical modification, and that goo adds to the crud it can't move out of passages and valve bodies any more. another good idea to periodically change it.

    if you wait too long on ATF changes, the shock of detergent action can kick chunks of crud loose that block shift changes inside, and can actually wear the tranny into failure.

    so it's not just an evil empire plot to strip you of even more money. there are good mechanical reasons. "fluid is cheap" is not necessarily correct, due to the labor involved in changing some of them, but replacement engines and trannies are much more expensive.

    there are european models that use different fluid bases than the domestics and most imports, so read your own manual. there are deteriorations and buildups of ugly that occur on all fluids used in cars.
  • mark156mark156 Posts: 2,006
    Swschrad and Alcan..... THANK YOU for the detailed information.

    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I'd flush out a low mileage car without question.
  • when driving car hit bumps have a knocking in the front of car from under it bad is it the struts/or shocks help
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome, Mark.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    I flushed my tranny at 27,000 roughly because I occasionally have a tow on. that will continue.

    did a flush on the brake lines at about 36,000 as an excuse to get a MityVac, and there was some discoloration of the red variety at the calipers already.

    had already changed out the PS fluid at 18,000 due to discoloration, and did it again at 42,000 due to the system developing a little bitty squeak, probably due to a tiny chunk of crud in the rack.

    the radiator was still good to -35 when I flushed it.

    it's a good excuse for a party afterwards, too ;)
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    could be crummy rubber bushings on stabilizer bars, too. spray 'em with a little heavy silicone and see if the knocking goes away. if so, look at the condition carefully... if compressed/worn/cracked so the bar is not tight against the bushing, they ought to be replaced. it's not a "do or die" type of service, get it after the rent is paid and the tax check has been sent in.
  • recently removed a 1.8 and installed a 2.0.
    in turn had to change the engine compartment
    wiring. do i have to change interior wiring
    harness also. unable to get tachometer to work.
    would this also provide a wrong signal to ecm. have weak spark on no. 1+4 spark wires. please adsvise and thank you
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Vehicle brand, model, and year would help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    It's a Mitsubishi Eclipse but he didn't say which year.
  • For a few weeks now, the A/C switch LED on my 2001 Eclipse GT is blinking intermittently. Sometimes blinking, sometimes not. But always blinking at the same frequency, very very regular (0.5 sec aprx) => like a signal

    Sometimes it starts blinking just after I get from Park position to Drive postition, but not every time. Later on, it stops by itself. while it is blinking, of course I can't pulse the A/C on.

    Would anybody know what that means?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I just read through these messages. Think it was No. 10 with windshield fogging.

    First thing I think would be the problem is a leaking heater core. It would leak and the moisture is blown inside the auto, almost immediately fogging up the windows.

    Of course, you should be able to smell the antifreeze, but maybe your nose isn't the best in the world.
  • Hi,
    We have 1985 Honda Prelude. Some time ago we experience some transmission (auto) slippage. Lately we start to have a problem that sound like fuel starvation. The car is idle fine but when shift in to Drive it go for 5-6 seconds and then start to chock. If we let go of the gas or let it idle for 30 seconds then we can accelerate again for 5-6 seconds and it chock again. When in neutral it can run into higher rpm for long time but not when we shift into gear. We replaced the fuel pump and the "sending unit" but it is still doing the same. The mechanics (two places) gave up. Is there any sensor / switch / connector or any other reason that can cause this? any connection to the transmission?
    Thank you
  • 79377937 Posts: 390
    Too much drag in transmission. Change transmission oil to correct Honda type.
  • I have teh GCC in my riveria, which is a touch screen moniter. The thing is the radio dosen't work any more. I can't find it to fix it.
  • My wipers stay in the upright position when I turn them off instead of in the seat. How do I correct this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    What year cavalier is this?
  • I have an 87 ford thunderbird v-8, I am having a problem changing out the heater core, can I get some assistance on the best way to change it out?
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 613
    Might have bent parking pawl or wiper transmission trouble. Your best bet is take it to a shop and have them check it out. If you've had icy/snowy weather lately, you may have bent or otherwise damaged wiper trans when clearing your car. Alot of people turn on the wipers with ice still on and, at least, cause the wiper nut to loosen, or worse, burning out the transmission (causing wipers to not move).
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    With or without AC, if with AC then manual or automatic?
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    changing that heater core is a big job.i had one of those birds and watched a buddy of mine change mine out.he was a former ford mechanic.the manual states the dash has to be removed.he did it thru the glove box opening,unbolting the dash supports on the passenger side.the a\c needs to be discharged and the lines disconnected at the evaporator thing he did was cut the excess length off the studs which serve as the fasteners which bolt the heater box to the firewall.this allowed him to better manuever the heater box inside the car.he then used a small right angle air wrench to remove the screws which held the lid onto the heater box.this was done several years ago i hope this helps.the experienced techs know the shortcuts.he had mine changed in about an hour and fifteen minutes.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    What did they do, send a heater core down the assembly line and build a car around it?

    RE: Eclipse AC question:

    I call the Mitsu dealer and they told me your car is low on freon, that's why the a/c LED is blinking. I spoke to a line mechanic, so he should know.
  • How do you replace the fuel filter on the 2001 Camaro? Is it hard to do? What about releasing the pressure - can i do that just by taking off the gas cap?
  • My girlfriend owns a 2002 Honda Civic that she rarely drives. I think after almost two full years of ownership she has put on about 7,000 miles. Since she drives it so little at the time, I am curious about how she should go about maintaining the vehicle? Should she follow the months, or the miles driven? Should she get a basic oil and filter change every 6 months and then follow the miles for the rest of the larger maintenance intervals, or what?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    She should be on the "severe service" schedule, and if Honda hasn't published one, call them up and get one.

    If there is no such thing for some reason, then what I'd do is flush out ALL the fluids at two year intervals regardless of miles (trans/diff/brakes/coolant/power steering) but change the oil according to mileage.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    These can be nasty, time consuming jobs. Someone told me on a old Peugeot 604, it's a 12 hour job.

    Figure that one at 80.00/hr plus the parts!

    A heater core job can exceed the value of a lot of older cars!
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