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in turn had to change the engine compartment
wiring. do i have to change interior wiring
harness also. unable to get tachometer to work.
would this also provide a wrong signal to ecm. have weak spark on no. 1+4 spark wires. please adsvise and thank you
Sometimes it starts blinking just after I get from Park position to Drive postition, but not every time. Later on, it stops by itself. while it is blinking, of course I can't pulse the A/C on.
Would anybody know what that means?
First thing I think would be the problem is a leaking heater core. It would leak and the moisture is blown inside the auto, almost immediately fogging up the windows.
Of course, you should be able to smell the antifreeze, but maybe your nose isn't the best in the world.
We have 1985 Honda Prelude. Some time ago we experience some transmission (auto) slippage. Lately we start to have a problem that sound like fuel starvation. The car is idle fine but when shift in to Drive it go for 5-6 seconds and then start to chock. If we let go of the gas or let it idle for 30 seconds then we can accelerate again for 5-6 seconds and it chock again. When in neutral it can run into higher rpm for long time but not when we shift into gear. We replaced the fuel pump and the "sending unit" but it is still doing the same. The mechanics (two places) gave up. Is there any sensor / switch / connector or any other reason that can cause this? any connection to the transmission?
Thank you
RE: Eclipse AC question:
I call the Mitsu dealer and they told me your car is low on freon, that's why the a/c LED is blinking. I spoke to a line mechanic, so he should know.
If there is no such thing for some reason, then what I'd do is flush out ALL the fluids at two year intervals regardless of miles (trans/diff/brakes/coolant/power steering) but change the oil according to mileage.
Figure that one at 80.00/hr plus the parts!
A heater core job can exceed the value of a lot of older cars!
I assume the auto transmission is nearly dead. She tells me that when she puts it "in gear", sometimes it "doesn't go like it should, doesn't move at all". I drove it several weeks ago and noticed a "jerk" when moving the lever from Park to Reverse. Also, I noticed that it hesitates when moving it from Park to Drive. It is a 4 cylinder engine with auto transmission and 80K miles. She bought it new and it has been basically trouble free until now.
My question is this: What should I expect to pay for a transmission rebuild on a '88 Reliant? And should the work be done by the local Chrysler dealer or would the parts be available to any reputable mechanic? Are transmission problems common in the old K-cars?
Over the last year and 10,000 miles or so I have gradually become aware of a loss of power when I hit hills. I've been taking the same route acroos PA on Rt. 80. If I recall, it used to be that I could keep cruise control on almost the whole route from Cleveland to Altoona. Then it became necessary to downshift to 4th gear to maintain speed on some of the steeper climbs.
Now, however, it is getting worse. At times going up steep hills I will have to downshift to 3rd gear to maintain a speed of 50-55, when the speed limit is 65. I feel a little like one of my bigger diesel cousins, the 18-wheelers who have to build up steam to make the next hill and immediately pull into the right lane halfway up.
I have scheduled an appt with VW service later this week. What would be a possible cause of this loss of power? Is a compression check in order? Could the clutch be slipping? I don't even know what it is like when the clutch slips lol! Any help would be appreciated.
You could donate the car to a charity, and pick up a nice ride for a little more than the $2000, if you're looking for something inexpensive.
RELIANT TRANS -- have a trans service done and see what happens. It's only $60-100 and it sometimes cures little burps like this. Worth a shot.
If the trans. really does go south, I agree, it's time for the boneyard for this car, or sell it to someone who might put a used trans in on their own time.
I have replaced the timing belt twice and done everything to keep it running right but I can't seem to fix a vibration problem that seems to be in the front end somewhere.
I have replaced the struts once but it may be time for them again. It has been about 100,000 miles since the last time. It has new tires and rims and was just aligned.
I have also replaced the motor mounts back in 1997 or so.
I have replaced both axles about a year ago. Anyone have any advice? Where should I start next?
I am starting to hear squeaking from the steering
wheel when I am turning it. Does anybody know where and how to grease what is squeaking?
Thanks in advanced,
Mark
I suspect the wiper linkage is seizing up. My question is: Can this be lubricated/repaired? Or does the linkage require replacement?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
General 'road oil' might be on the drive pulleys.
Remove the belt. Get your 409 or Simple Green cleaner. Get your toothbrush.
Using the cleaner and toothbrush, clean all the ribbed drive pulleys. Wipe up the drool as you are working.
This might cure the squeals.
Oh, yes. Buy a new toothbrush.
just a quick advisory, since we know YOU know this, but somebody might not... you have to clean the belts and pulleys with the engine OFF and all the keys in your pocket. pull the DC wires off the coil packs if you have to to be sure the engine is not going to start up when you do this. you only get one set of arms and fingers, and trying to work with a moving belt system insures you will lose at least part of the set.
does anyone have any tips on replacing the clutch cable? i am going to the junkyard tomorrow to pick up a cable and lookin to swap it into my car but i'm not positive what i'll have to deal with. any tips or directions would be greatly appreciated. thanks,
b
I'm not sure a junkyard cable is a good idea either.
My question is what numbers are they quoting? All honda sedans have less than 300ft/lbs per honda.
Remember that the folks who put these shows on are not mechanics.
According to the info I have, you are correct, that the torque is about 300 ft lbs for the Hondas.
Any gas engine will have a lower torque value than horsepower, where as the oposite is true for diesels. So, if what they said were true, you would be looking at a vehicle with over 5,000 hp.
Not likely.
I never watch that show, so I am not certain what machine they were talking about, but I would consider the source.
The last one I saw of that show, they thought a Cummins deisel engine only weighed about 800 lbs.
I wish, it'd make my job a whole lot easier.
The #1 function of a transmission is to multiply engine torque, so if we use a hypothetical engine with 300 ft/lbs, 1st gear ratio of 4:1, and final drive ratio of 3:1, we get 300 x 4 x 3 or 3,600 ft/lbs at the axles.
that still works for me, shifty. pressure and displacement together makes work. all pressure and no displacement is like the circus acts who lie in a coffin while somebody blows a half crate of dynamite a foot away. lotsa noise signifying nothing.
thanks!
PS: Never though a piece of rubber could cost $75, but it's better than wet running shoes.