2013 and Earlier - Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

3zoom

Thanks jason, i got their number..just wonder i can need to send them for proof...since i don';t have my diploma yet.

did i get a fair deal on that car?

shootinstr8

I am in the market for a 2005 M3s. The local dealer near my home is offering $1000 off MSRP and an additional $250 discount until the end of the month for a total savings of $1250. With the options I am looking for it appears the total before taxes, license, etc. is $9 over invoice.

Can I do better than that?

Thanks

3zoom

use edmund and find out how much it cost total, the TMV with all the options. most car dealer is willing to offer u the invoice price or $100-500 over invoices...remember dealer's invoice is typically lower than the one that is posted in the internet.

hope it helps

steve3589

Looking at a 04 Mazda3 5 door with wheel locks for only option. Just wondering how much under invoice I should be able to get a 04 for? I have the S plan, it would be $16,500 on a 05. Dealer said OTD would be $15,800 and told them I wanted $15k even. Said couldnt do but we will see what happens since the 31st is Thursday.

3zoom

Steve, i was told by a dealer that the price between the 05 and 04 is about $1000 differences.

So $15,800 OTD is a very good deal. just offer them $15,500 and u will get a awesome deal.

good luck

sempurr

I've been communicating with dealerships by email and I just got an email today from North Penn Mazda that they are trying to reach a sales objective set by Mazda and are willing to sell a Mazda "for invoice or close." I would guess that this is an end-of-month thing. Just thought I'd mention it to encourage car shoppers out there to try to get in on the March deals before the 31st! Looks like they are eager to haggle if they are contacting me and offering invoice. Also, the $1000 MAC cash expires 3/31.

I got my Mazda3 last weekend and love it!

Mary Ann

charlotte7

I have access to Mazda's S-plan and am considering getting a Mazda3 hatchback. I don't understand whether using the S-plan is actually *better* pricing than haggling over invoice. Does anyone know? Do I really save more money by walking in and asking for the S-plan price as opposed to haggling?

Has anyone bought a Mazda3 using the S-plan and gotten yet more money off? The dealers in our area do not seem to be "dealing" very much on the 3s, though they will practically give you an 04 6.

steve3589

Does the $1000 MAC cash apply to the 2005 Mazda3 5 door? I dont see it for my zip of 27105.

On the S plan deal, I think you could haggle on anything other than the 3. We bought a 04 MPV last year and I didnt use my S plan and got $1k below invoice. But who knows, you might be able to get better pricing by haggling. I know on the 04 5 door I mentioned about there is $1750 in rebates but the dealer is only offering $1500. Still it being a 04 they will not help with under invoice or s plan pricing. Think I rather have a 05 for that little of difference in price.

ncdriver1

Does Mazda offer any rebates or dealer cash or MAC financing bonus cash on 2005 Mazda3 hatchback in NC, specifically in the triangle area? Mazda's web site does not show any. Would appreciate a quick reply. Thanks.

medalian1

$32 under invoice. 5 speed manual, only option was air condition. Got in house fianancing @ 5.10% for 60 months. I walked away pretty happy, this was at Ferman Mazda of Brandon (Florida). The prices they were throwing out first were insane and they said 3's don't sell under MSRP. Oh well overall I'm happy, I understand they have to play games. No trade-in and no down payment (just totaled my '00 Sentra SE).

steve3589

Ok, I gave the dealer a rough go at it but it was for a 2004 model year!! I bought a 04 M3 5 door 5spd, only option was wheel locks for $14,262. Has 255 miles on it, poor thing been sitting on the lot all year! I got the MAC $1k rebate on it also. Think invoice was around $16500 and I was hoping about $2500 off that but I think they were at the bottom. Almost walked out when they try to charge me the $295 doc fee, we settle on $175 off price of car and couple oil changes and gas fill ups.

So did anyone else get a deal, since it was the end of the month?

mrchet

I finally purchased my first ever new vehicle last night. After debating the Scion Tc, Subaru Impreza, Saab 9-2X Linear I kept coming back to the 3 Hatch for the MPG, lower insurance cost, timing chain (vs. belt), use of regular vs. premium and practicality of the design. Now all I need is the new ipod iceLink to come out (fingers crossed for this summer) and I'll be uber-content.

Any ways on to pricing:

I have watched this board and others for over a month now and I basically figured out that I wasn't going to get a deal in the SF Bay Area, CA that people in other parts of the nation were getting. Plus, we have our wonderful %8.25 sales tax. I also had no trade so I had to pay tax on the full amount.

I went in wanting a base 5spd Hatch, Titanium Grey with only the Safety Package (which was a requirement after I saw the "Poor" side impact rating w/o the airbags). ABS is also a no brainer anyway. I had been working with the internet/fleet guy and came to a number for this car around $17000 + TTL (~$18700). I had planned on walking in there with a cap of $18500 out the door knowing it was month/quarter end and that earlier in the week they were about 20 cars short of their goal for the period.

I get there (about 30 min rush hour drive) and the car we had been talking about was sold (it was there with a big "Sold" sign on the dash). Manager shows me 2 cars: also Gray but with Moonroof, 6-disc and rear bumper guard. One has leather.

I low ball and say I want the cloth seat car for $17,100 as well knowing it wasn't going to fly. They came back high ball $18,750 + TTL (?!?). I almost walked out. I said $19,000 Out the door. After 10 minutes they come back and say close, but it's not going to happen. I say give me a few minutes. In the interim a family buying a 6 walks out on them. Granted they were 3 cars from there number and the 6 was worth 2 and my deal would be the clincher and it's past 8pm. So manager comes back and says what can you do. I say $19,700 out the door, throw in the leather (I kicked in another $200 over invoice for the leather option alone). They come back $19,850 and I agree (I was going to give them last offer $20K).

So...$19,850 works out to ~$18,145 before TTL for

3H S Titanium Gray
Safety Package (ABS, SAC, SAB)
Moonroof & 6-Disc Changer
Leather Seats
Rear Bumper Step Plate

Came out to about $400 below invoice per Edmunds. The price is also about $400 (out the door) over Edmunds TMV before TTL so I'm pretty satisfied. Only wish I was about 6 years younger then I could have gotten the $500 college grad rebate as well. Tack on the lovely %8.25 + some minor fees (CA tire $8.75, doc fee $45 (max in CA), 1 year of reg and license) to get to $19.850 OTD. I'm happy. I think where I live everything is just expensive. Heck I'll be paying close to $2.50/gallon to fill her up with regular unleaded! Overall, the deals are there to be had. If you can wait till the end of the month/quarter you'll do better. I'm also very happy with the service there and the whole internet/fleet email bargaining experience. I helped my folks out with their Lexus purchase using the net too and they made out quite well. carsdirect and Edmunds pricing also is a good way to have leverage (though carsdirect just recently removed the invoice price this week from their summaries!).

Sorry for the long winded post...but I'm excited about the car.

Best of luck to all!

P.S. The family came back before I left and bought the 6 so the dealer made his number. Everyone was pretty happy there and it was a nice experience.

autonomous

Congratulations! You handled the deal like a pro, in my opinion. Pretty impressive for your first car purchase.

relentless3

After spending a month emailing Mazda dealers here in St. Louis and across the state of Missouri, I called a local dealer on 3/30 and said I would like to bring in my 99 Miata, with only 12000 miles to trade to purchase a 05 Mazda i with automatic and power package today. I will be there within the hour. I would like to keep the car for the next 6-8 hours so I can really test drive it! The internet manager said your new Mazda will be ready and waiting for you. I returned one hour prior to closing and we sat down to make the deal. I said we will take no less then $9000 for the Miata and I have three written emails from dealers in K.C. that said they will sell me the 3i for $16000 as an out the door price. So let me know if you will match or beat the deal or I will drive to K.C. tomorrow and buy my 3i there. We went back and forth three times, and on the third time I said do you have any 3S with just automatic? I got a price of $16700 from the K.C.dealer on that one and I might want that instead. He had one in winning blue and its been sitting in my driveway for the past 48 hours. The sales manager let me drive it home to test it since I didn't drive that one earlier and I bought it yesterday! I am very pleased with the deal I received. $16700 is over $200 under invoice. I worked hard and it was worth it!

sgtpepper

just picked up my winning blue hatchback for $18,134, $100 below invoice. however, yesterday when we went to one of the dealers (in el cajon), he agreed to giving me a hatchback at invoice plus a compass & outside temperature auto-dimming mirror, or the same hatchback at $300 below invoice. i was asking for lower, and when the salesman wouldn't give it to me for lower, i decided to check out the last mazda dealer in san diego. at the dealership in national city, they were offering $200 below invoice, so of course i wouldn't take a worse deal, figuring i could always go back to the $300 below invoice. in the end, i only got $100 below because i didn't really do my homework (and didn't know that most buyers were getting their 3 at invoice, and also because my dad has never bought a jpn car before and he's always gotten at least $2000 below invoice when he buys cars) and decided to get the "best" deal when it was too late - both dealers were owned by the same company, and had given each other a heads up about the asian girl who wanted a 3hatchback). i realize my deal wasn't bad, but it wasn't the best.

i guess i sacrificed $200 to find out what the bottom price is. hope this info is useful for future buyers!

btw- although the price wasn't bad at the national city dealer, their service was HORRIBLE.
incident one- the salesman "threw in" a free full tank of gas, but since it's my first time to buy a car, i didn't know that the new cars come with a full tank of gas anyways. jipped. the salesman wouldn't even own up to his trickery when i complained.
incident two- don't want to get into the details, but even after i bought the car, the salesmen were trying to trick me into buying a warranty package that made no sense (7 yrs/60k miles... c'mon... 60k's going to run out before standard 4-yr warranty that comes with the car runs out!) and purposely omitting information about the packages (the salesman only said 7 yrs warranty, and i had to read the contract to see the max 60k miles part). he also gave me a horrible interest rate (even for a first time buyer). he kept saying that 7.9% was the best deal ever for a first time buyer. good thing my dad called his banker, who told him that we could get it from car dealers for ~5% (we finally did haggle it down to 5.04%).

maybe i'm just not experienced in this car-buying game, but it seemed like they were trying to trick me into bad deals at every turn.

etack

I intend to buy a Mazda 3 i this weekend in New York State. I've agreed to pay 3% over invoice. (I didn't know at the time about "out the door" pricing). After reading this site, I know now I should prepare to see some fees when I get there, but I'm unclear what fees are legit and which are not. I don't understand what the etch fee is and whether or not it's negotiable. Can anyone help me understand what is legit and what isn't so I don't make a fool of myself? Thanks.

etack

Oh yeah, and also I haven't mentioned to the dealer that I should be eligible for a $500 loyalty rebate and $500 recent graduate rebate. Is there a best time to bring this up or does it matter? Thanks again.

mazda6s

etack -
Everything except death and taxes is negotiable. If by "legit" fees you mean fees that the dealer has to pay and needs to pass on to you, start with the assumption that there are none. All of the add-ons are just a way for the dealer to jack up the price over what you agreed to. Just say no. For stuff like etch which may already be on the car (the dealer will say they're but sorry they can't take it off) keep in mind that some guy comes to their lot and does all the cars really cheap, so it's a very small cost to the dealer. In most areas the doc fee is the only fee that is normaly paid without much fuss, and even that is alomst always negotiable.
Tell them the price you agree to is out-the-door except for actual taxes and state license fees (watch out, they'll try to add on bogus fees here too), and is contingent on you getting both of the rebates you believe you are qualified for.
It works, I've done it.

etack

What's a reasonable doc fee?
Also, how do rebates work if I pay cash, anyway? Do I have to fork over the whole price and then expect reimbursement from Mazda? Or do they just take the money off the total? Does it hurt the dealership if I use rebates? Or does the money come from Mazda USA, so it doesn't matter to them? Thanks.

mazda6s

For me, I figure $100 for a doc fee is acceptable, $200 if I'm feeling generous that day. I think anything over that is excessive. YMMV
You should be able to sign the rebates over to the dealer so they can come off the price at time of sale. Rebates cost the dealer nothing as they come from the manufacturer (Mazda) and not the dealer. The sales person may try to use them as a negotiating point, which is ridiculous and should be cause to threaten walking out if they don't stop their deceptive practices.
Always remember, car sales people make their living at this and they do it every day, so some of them are very good at it. The best of them can get more money out of you and make you feel good about it. You, and the other hand, are at a distinct disadvantage as you don't do this very often and don't know all the tricks. It's like throwing lambs to the lions. They will eat you alive.
Start with the assumption that everything they tell you is suspect and needs to be verified, and work from there.

This is no different for the Mazda3 than for any other car.

chrismanjr

I have had my Mz3 5Dr hatch for just over a year now, and logged over 25,500 miles on it so far. I do all maintenance religiously, track every gas purchase, and drive gently 85% of the time. Since purchase in April 04, I have had the following issues:

Rear brake wear: more than expected, with minor grooves noticeable within the first 2000 miles. Documented with dealer every oil change (religious to 3000 miles +/- 500) in case of further issues, but have had no major problems. Excessive brake dust, but smooth feel and only very minor grooving- I tend to think it's a soft metal spec'd for the rotors, will replace with aftermarket when these wear out.

Check Engine Light, turned out to be a faulty O2 sensor in the emissions, replaced on warranty. No further issue.

Struck by lightning (I think): heard a loud hum, saw sparks behind, blue-ish glow above/front. Was driving under (very high) power lines in yucky weather, cannot confirm that was it, but scared the cr*p out of me! No bad behavior, or marks, dealer ran the computer to be sure, but had no error codes. (No charge- kudos) Have had no issues since, assume all is ok.

Undercarriage scraping: On even minor bumps, when people are in rear seat or cargo weighing over ~75lbs in hatch area, -something- in the rear of the car scrapes very easily. The suspension seems tuned for driver/front passenger only, if I ever replace the rear suspension it will be slightly stiffer for this situation. I have seen no damage or visible marks by visual inspection, but I hear it consistently.

Other than that, this car has been VERY excellent. I consistently get 27mpg city/heavy traffic, and 35-38mpg highway, cruise on or off, smooth driving with mild hills. In very mountainous areas, I saw 32-34mpg with a moderately loaded car. (supplies for 2 adults, one 1-year old for 7 days).

------------------------------REVIEW-----------------------------------------------

The ride is very comfortable, I used to drive a Toyota Supra, so the firm feel is more than welcome- I can't stand body roll when I want to get around an entrance ramp faster than I should. The engine has been peppy, until I turned the AC on. Then it keeps up, but loses its pep. Definite performance "bump" just over 3200 RPM, when the engine is cold it's a very noticeable, rough ramp of power- it likes to kick in. If I really want to boogy, I run the RPMs from 3200-4200 RPM, I rarely do that. Generally I'm shifting by or before 3400 RPM, and it's a very smooth, satisfying ride.

This car excells at smooth curves, ZOOM-ZOOM! I find it very comfortable, even more so than my Supra was for long drives. I completed a 13 hour drive with only brief stops, and was still comfortable thanks to adjustable lumbar support, comfortable position, and smooth, confident ride. The only ergonomic quibble I have is that the only place to rest my right arm is the storage compartment cover- too far away, and sligthly too firm. If it were only a few inches closer, it would be oh-so-much more comfortable. But, that would infringe on the excellent cupholders- they fit 2 Large size McDonald's cups just fine, even room for shifting my 5-speed.

Some people complain about the "silly" LEDs for the radio volume/station controls- they can be shut off in the radio settings, very easily, if you don't like them. I think they're a unique styling. I do wish the radio could be more easily replaced with an aftermarket unit, but it looks like I'd lose the steering wheel controls, and the very nice display, and have to replace the entire center console with a custom made one, just to put in a decent aftermarket radio. That said, the sound out of the stock system is quite sufficient, as long as you're not entering an SPL competition. Good, not great, stereo performance. The auto-preset-tune function is great for travel, making radio scanning in unknown areas much simpler by picking the 6 strongest signals, without interfering with any of the 12 preset stations.

CC and power everything work perfectly, A/C is on the weak side, but acceptable. (Based on 80 degree weather) Storage space is incredibly useful, and with the foldable seats, can carry a large variety of shapes and sizes.

Overall, I have been VERY satisfied, and have NO REGRETS whatsoever about my decision. I do wish I'd gotten the sunroof I wanted, but none were available in the country how I wanted at the time of purchase, and I couldn't wait. (Try fitting 2 adults, and a newborn in car seat in a '91 Supra, you'll understand why!) This car LOVES to be driven, and has a very easy, comfortable yet sporty feel when driving. It will put a smile on your face.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------

I hope this can help someone who is looking, I found this site very helpful during my search. Best of luck!

-Jeremy

uk_rave

I just wanted some advice from those who have recently purchased a 2005 Mazda3 s 5-door (5-speed 2.3L I4 Manual). I have test-driven them and I like them. Now I have just completed an auction on Mycar.com (highly recommended), whereby a selected number of dealerships are contacted and give competative prices either over or below invoice.

These are the following quotes that I have got from that auction: $100, 200 and 500 over invoice. Obviously, I will start with the lowest quote first and get a drive out price from that dealership, but I would like to know what a good drive out price is. I have had one quote of $20,324, but I know I can do better than that.

My specs are Moonroof, ABS Pkg, Leather seat preferred but optional. I expect to have certain items like wheel locks and all weather mats thrown in at no extra cost since they cost so little.

Additionally I have also looked at 2004 (same specs), and have had a quote of $250 over invoice. Good or Bad?

Advice would be greatly appreciated

A.

mdaffron

... plus they gave me about $500 more for my trade than it was worth. And used a "bank coupon" to knock a point off my loan's interest rate. Oh, and they threw in the TotalCare 6 year/100K-mile bumper-to-bumper extended warranty for about half price.

All without any haggling.

But then again, this was my sixth new Mazda from this dealership in 14 years. Are you a repeat customer? Loyalty means a lot to a dealer.

Meade

uk_rave

Sounds like you got a great deal. I have a Mazda for the last 6 years and it I am happy with them, hence why I have chosen to stay with that make.

Well wish me luck in the haggling as it starts today.

A.

mdaffron

Haggling: One of the benefits of democracy.

Wish I could join ya!

Meade

s2le

I'm considering buying a Mazda3i with S plan pricing. I'd like to add an option (a cassette player) and I'm told it will cost significantly more than the amount on the S plan pricing sheet because I'll need to pay for installation. Is it fair for me to assume that cost? Should I try to negotiate?

I've also run into dealers who refuse to bring in cars from other dealerships if I use S plan pricing. Anyone else encountered this?

audia8q

yes it does cost us more to get the cassette out of the parts department and install it at the dealership....in many cases accessories cost the dealer more than factory install MSRP. Then the dealer has to tack on install costs. It's crazy but true. You can try to haggle but don't get upset if there isnt much movement.

Also, there are some dealers who will not swap for an S-plan. If it's an easy swap many will do it, but if the other dealer wants a car back things can get sticky...To give up $1500 in potential gross profit to make $200 does not make sense. I believe the S-plan consumer rules state that the car must be instock or factory ordered...but nobody reads or follows the rules, they are for other people..lol

packemup87

I am interested in a new 2004 Mazda3i with Auto and A/C as the only options. I'm located in Indiana and there are several dealers within a 2 hour drive that meet these option requirements on 2004 models. Any suggestions on a reasonable price for a 2004 model. One dealer quoted an "On Sale" price of $13995, which I think is before TTL. I haven't done any further negotiations and at this point I have only solicited quotes from several dealers online. Just looking for any feedback or suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

etack

I was quoted a price to install a cassette deck as $290. Installing at the dealer means the system is under warranty. To go to a non-dealer, you won't be covered by Mazda warranty. You can install the system at Mazda at any time, but the warranty will be prorated - in other words the warranty will expire in 5 years from the date you bought the car. If you install it in a year, you only get 4 years of coverage. That's what they told me anyway.

etack

I need some advice. As an internet customer, I negotiated a deal on a 3i for 2% over invoice (about $325 over). When I went to the dealer, the manager confirmed this price and I was handed off to a salesman. The price was written on an invoice and I was asked to sign it. I did. Then, the salesman took the invoice back and started adding the taxes and fees. I was charged a $249 dealer conveyance fee, which really skrews up my deal. I asked an acquaintance about this and he told me that the dealer must charge everyone that fee. I paid a deposit, but I haven't paid for the car yet. I'm tempted to take $249 off the original price, add tax and other fees, and just hand them this amount in a bank check. I mean, this fee was never discussed, and I didn't agree to it. What do you think about this plan? In an earlier post, it was mentioned that $100 is an OK doc fee, $200 at max. Thanks for your input.

autonomous

The price was written on an invoice and I was asked to sign it. I did. Then, the salesman took the invoice back and started adding the taxes and fees. I was charged a $249 dealer conveyance fee
Interesting. You were asked to sign before the invoice was completed. As a contract, I would think you would be obliged to pay the amount stated, not an amount that you decide afterwards. You may want to see the manager of the dealership and a) state that signing partially completed invoices smacks of trickery/deceptive practices and you were offended; b) if they cannot budge on the price, see if they can offer you something in return like a few free services (i.e. free lube). Neither you nor the salesman may be at fault : it might have been an innocent mistake. From the salesman's point of view, you had agreed to a purchase price, required taxes and his standard fees. The documentation fee has been discussed in this forum; some think it exhorbitant others chalk it up to the cost of doing business.

Your experience proves why every consumer should ask the salesman a simple question : could you show me the total price of this car including all fees and taxes and rebates?
Best of luck!

sandman46

Just saw a '05 3 that the pizza guy was driving. Very nice car. They changed the wheel covers for '05...much nicer IMHO. It was a silver manual with nice cloth seats, but without the power mirrors. Wonder what's included in the power pack?
The guy said he got it for $13,900 before any other fees. So adding auto would probaly bring the price closer to $14,900. Figure OTD maybe $16k. Am I dreaming here? Didn't see any letter next to the Mazda 3 so assuming it was an "i" model.

The Sandman :confuse:

mazda6s

The price was written on an invoice and I was asked to sign it. I did. Then, the salesman took the invoice back and started adding the taxes and fees. I was charged a $249 dealer conveyance fee, which really skrews up my deal.

etack - This is one of the sleazy sales practices (dirty tricks) that I tried to warn you about. Some people call this "bait and switch". I just call it deceptive. It's just a way to get their price back up after they offer you the price you wanted. They figure you'll just be so excited about your new car that you'll pay it. How bad do you want the car? This dealer apparently thinks you are stupid and you will just roll over. Trust me, they will take advantage of you if you let them. You should have asked specifically about the DC fee earlier. Is it shown on the papers you signed? If not, I'd tell them that since they didn't tell you about it when you agreed to the price AND ITS NOT A FEE REQUIRED BY THE STATE, you're not going to pay it. You agreed to pay invoice plus 2%, plus any registration and tax fees. This implies that these are state-required fees. This Dealer Conveyance fee is something the dealer is asking for and not required by any state that I have ever heard of. So, tell them that you're not going to pay it and you want your deposit back. If they say you will lose the deposit then tell them you are going to report them to the state Attorney General for deceptive sales practices. If the deposit was a check you can just stop payment on it. If it's on a credit card you can dispute the charge if the deal falls through. Do your papers state that the deposit is non-refundable? These people are just trying to take advantage of you. It's up to you if you want to let them. Trust me, the Sales Manager can drop this fee, but they will only do it if you tell them you're not going to pay it and make them believe it. Chances are that they will drop it or reduce it.

I asked an acquaintance about this and he told me that the dealer must charge everyone that fee.
Why? This could be the dealer's policy, but if it is then they should have told you this before you signed the deal. Like I said, dirty tricks. Remember, these people are not your friends, no matter how much they smile at you while they're ripping you off.

etack

What my acquaintance said was that the dealer must be consistent in the application of their fee - not $50 for one person and $249 for another. (Incidentally, he also said that certain states caps this fee at $40.) He said the dealer will NOT take off the fee, rather, my best argument is to get the price of the car reduced by $249. I thought I was so prepared going in to all this. I'm so upset at the way I got burned. The good news is, I'm totally prepared to walk away from this deal. Nothing I signed said the deposit is non-refundable. And, both the manager and salesman said it was refundable. Bottom line is there are a lot of good cars out there - and a lot of other dealers - for a person like me to choose from.

etack

Anyone know how to get a list of Mazda dealers by state? I'm trying to search inventory in MA, CT, NY, and NJ, and it's a pain trying to figure out all those zip codes. Plus, I don't think it helps to widen the mileage to 150 miles, since the same dealers come up using 50 or 150.

kyfdx

You might try calling them back... Unless you brought it up at the time you signed, you could say you were looking over the paperwork, and found a $249 fee that you did not agree to...

If they say they have to charge you the fee, then do as you suggest and ask them to take it off of the price of the car.. Be pleasant about it, but firm.. If they say they won't do it, then tell them the deal is off..

Nothing to lose..

regards,
kyfdx

audia8q

seems to me you set yourself up for the bump by not making the offer than an informed edmunds buyer would......if you only make "out the door offers" that pesky little fee won't be an issue, it becomes an issue for the dealer to try an meet your offer...

It's good that your prepared to walk away, but your going to find doc fees almost everywhere you go....so plan accordingly.

mdaffron

Anyone know how to get a list of Mazda dealers by state?

Why, simply typing "mazda dealers by state" into Google's search window brought back the following hit:

http://www.internetautoguide.com/car-dealers/01-int/mazda/

Imagine that!

Meade

etack

Time to give thanks to you all for your useful advice.

autonomous

You might try calling them back ... If they say they have to charge you the fee, then do as you suggest and ask them to take it off of the price of the car. Be pleasant about it, but firm. If they say they won't do it, then tell them the deal is off..

Sounds like good advice to me. You're right to check out other sources. Finally, you may want to put this into perspective also; the price is off by a $125 (if the dealership goes halfway with the fee) so the total price is not that far off (less than 1%) your intended target.

mazda6s

Seriously though, I agree with kyfdx and audia8q.;)

anon70

Edmunds review on the Mazda3 doesnt mention the Special Edition.

What are the differences and is it worth the price difference?

THX

soulphish

Internet quote on a Mazda 3i 2005

Manual
16 and Power Package
Wheel Locks
Cargo Net

15, 545 plus TTL.

That is below the TMV on Edmunds and carsdirect. Should I try to get it lower or run with this one?

natenj1971

So I found out my insurance will only go up $90.00 a year for a 2005 Mazda3S. I'm considering the 5 door and 4 door. How's the outward visibility of the hatchback? blind spots?

I would like to get the rear view mirror with temp and compass. Anyone have an opinion on this option? does it work well?
Anyone spring for the all season floor maps? are the holding up well?
What about tramission? How's the 5 speed after 30k miles? what about the auto?
Also, in some pictures I've seen there is an option on the right side of the console. In other pictures it's storage - does anyone know what this is?

I've read good things about Wayne Mazda in NJ. Any other dealers you would recommend in the NNJ area?

Thanks for any response.

mdaffron

Interesting. What were you driving before, and how old are you?

I ask because my insurance went down when I bought my Mazda3S.

Meade

natenj1971

I'm 33, living in East Rutherford NJ (NJ insurance is out of control). I have a clean license. I pay $1200 a year for a 2001 Accord Ex V6. I wanted a Civic Si but it was another $500 - $700 to insure. The same for the Acura RSX.

So any opinions about those options?

adzam

Just bought 3s sedan, Sunlight silver here in CA:

4 Spd Auto
ABS/SAB/SAC
Moonroof and 6 CD
Sport Package

20,600 OTD

An okay deal, probably could have done better, but dealer was close by and reasonable to deal with. I love the looks of the car and look forward to picking it up tomorrow.

sold

why would you wait. the cars all cost the same. when ever... Buy the thing if you love it.

mdaffron

I just turned 40 and live in the suburbs of Richmond, VA. My wife (who's 38) and I, with clean records, were paying approx. $1,200 a year for our 2000 Protege ES and 2002 Protege5. Trading the 2000 Protege for a 2005 Mazda3s wagon brings our premium down $12 a year. We use Safeco, btw.

Meade

natenj1971

Location is everything. When I was living in Hudson Valley NY (78 miles north of where I am now) I was paying $800 a year for full coverage with a $250 deductible. My deductible is now a lot higher just to keep the insurance reasonable.

So anyone have anything to say about the temp gauge on the mirror? or the cargo net? do the clips break easily? Does anyone know what that option is in some cars - just right of the gear shift?

What about a dealer?

Thanks Meade