Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
My best guess is when you get in there the deal will fall apart. They will offer you nothing for your trade - & or they will have some made up fees that total $900+ or they have added a bunch of dealer installed stuff on the car - paint & fabric protection that costs them $25 is listed for $1,200 - or I had one dealership (Landmark Chevy in Houston) just put something called "ADM" for $2,500 at the bottom of the sticker. ADM stands for additional dealer mark-up. It made their offer of $3,000 off every car on the lot advertising seem like of lame.
Let us know what you find out.
He assured me I would have no need. So I called back and spoke to another rep who confirmed independently that they have at least 4 cars at that price....so I will go and see and report back. There are no free lunches, so the dealer is being protected by factory money. How much is anyones guess.
rdy
BTW - just because you call the dealership and ask them if this is a real deal - and they say - yes - means nothing. What do you expect them to tell you over the phone - we are a bunch of dishonest jerks - now come buy a car from us.
They could be demo vehicles -
Maybe they had hail / storm damage
OR it could be a real good deal. You will never know until you go in and see with your own eyes.
Good luck.
$24,984.56 (x-plan price)
$455 (MAP)
$590 (Armour Shield)
=$26,029.56 + GST
Is this reasonable?
Your comments or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
MSRP: $20,225.00
I got if for: $19,725.00
automatic transmission, w/o moonroof or security system
plus wheel locks and cargo mat
plus additional:
doc fee: $55.39
7% tax: $1,419.63
flat fee tax: $15.00
Plates: $143.00
Grand total: $21,358.02 .. geez.
but got free cargo net, all weather mats, 4 free oil changes, and 4 Mazda t-shirts. yahoo.
2004 Mazda3 5-door
Black Mica
Manual
Options:
Moonroof/6-cd
ABS,Side airbags
Xenon & TPMS
Leather Seats
Wheel Locks
Sticker is $20115
Invoice calculates to $18574
I'm in no hurry to buy, just testing the waters so to speak. If the right deal comes along, though, I'm definitely prepared to buy immediately, which is what I told the salesperson. His first offer was a "President's Day Sale" price of $21225 (!!!). As soon as I started to object, he says "we gotta try, right?". Quoting over sticker for a 2004 - I almost punched him...
Anyway, after a few rounds of negotiating, he couldn't get me to budge from my offer of $17000 + TTL for a grand total of $18658. Again, I was just sort of feeling out how badly they wanted to ditch a leftover '04, and the salesperson didn't seem completely unreceptive to my offer. Finally, the "sales manager" came out to do his "you wanna get me fired" routine, then he takes my scrap paper that I had written my offer on, crumples it up and throws it in the garbage. I collected my jacket and walked out.
In your opinion, how much depreciation should be factored into a car that's been sitting in the showroom for about 6 months (and is previous model year), and what do you think would be a fair deal? (I *do* feel that my offer was very low, but I wanted to feel them out). Are dealers willing to let these go at a loss rather than continue to pay further interest and depreciation?
Looking forward to your opinions.
Oh, I guess I should add that the dealer's lowest offer was $18300 +TTL.
P.S. My first post here! Great forum going...!
Is the overall price quoted for the Mazda 3 reasonable for Western Canadians?
$15869 out the door.
I told them, the check is already written so not a cent more. The salesman and I recognized each other from a ugly Ford lease negotiation several years ago which I won, so he was cool and I don't expect any surprises.
They wanted 3% for AMEX, I offered 1.25% but they wouldn't budge so I abandoned it. After we made the deal, I asked him why they were selling the car for approx 400 under invoice after holdback when there are zero incentives. He said as a new Mazda store, they were getting the cars at reduced cost. Not likely, but the only reason that seems slightly credible is that no other Mazda store would consider a price match. It's the best deal I can currently negotiate, so I'm OK with it.
Does anyone know if Mazda give free Roadside Assistance with purchase?
My guess.. you might have been able to buy it for $18K + TTL...
From a re-sale standpoint, not worth it over a comparable '05...
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
It invoice was $15,700. I got it for $10,900 and $89 for the paperwork fee.
I thought it was a good deal for a bare bone truck with a 4 year warrant.
Good luck,
Thanks in advance
kirstie_h
Roving Host
Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
He also says that there probably won't be any incentives on the 2005's until mid-year...
TIA...
Since it is a 2004, should I try to get it for less- about how much would be a fair difference between the 2004 and 2005?
I will be keeping the car so I'm not really concerned about re-sale value...
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
I just paid it off last week no penality.
I will do my title at the DMV this week.
And what you pay should always include it, as well...
So, even after you deduct the rebate, your price is $17400? Is that an out the door price? Taxes and everything else included?
Because if you still have to pay tax on top of that, then that isn't much of a deal..
If we assume that the total MSRP w/destination is about $19,400, then your price is only about $18,400 before the rebate.. That isn't much of a discount on a year old model...
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
No matter how long I was keeping it... I'd want at least $2500 less than I could buy a new '05..
So, I think I'd be asking for another $1000 lower..
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Go to mazdausa.com, click on shopping tools, then click search inventory - it will bring up all the cars in the area that meet your requirements -
It is not perfect - sometimes dealers list cars that have already been sold or are ordered but not delivered yet - but it will give you a good idea what is available.
I used it and found it a big help.
Once you buy the car, you can take it anywhere you want for service..
Finding the car you want, and getting it with little hassle, is worth a couple of hundred dollars....IMO
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Thanks!
This is one of the silliest (is that even a word?) negotiating tactics I have ever heard of.
First of all the - don't look like you know anything ploy - lets play dumb - is in fact dumb.
Second - do you really think that the people who work in the finance department don't understand how to work a calculator? They know exactly what a payment of $280 for 60 months at 4.75% is worth.
Guess what will most likely happen - the sales person will come out and say - we got you a payment of $280 - but when you get to the finance department the loan will be for 72 months at 6.0% - which is BTW a loan of $16,895.
Then what do you say - gee I said I can only pay $280 a month - but I can only make 60 payments or less (why I can only make 60 payments I don't know because after all I am dumb!).
Then a good salesperson will say great - we can switch you over to a lease - it would be easy to get a payment down to $280 on a lease - say 48 months with an option to buy at the end for $6,000 (which BTW comes back to a "sales price" of about $17,182)
Why do car sales people like to ask - what payment do you want? Because they can work all kinds of magic around $XXX per month.
The best way to buy a car is not by playing dumb - or by using some trick. I mean really - the dealership & sales people do this for a job hundreds of times every year - do you really think they don't understand some silly trick.
One last point about this - I can only pay $280 a month ploy - it takes the dealership about 2 minutes to run your credit report - this will tell them how much you earn - how much your house payment (or rent)is how much credit card debt you have bla bla bla - so they will know (maybe even better than you) how much you can really pay per month.
Oh, and what would be a reasonable discount off a 2004? They're asking $19900 including $1000 rebate (which I still haven't been able to verify). The 2005 invoice price is $20,446 which is about the same for the 2004 model...
What car are you trying to buy (2004 Mazda3 S, sedan)?
What options does it have? What is the MSRP - including destination charge?
2005 automatic with ABS, MoonRoof & 6-CD Pkg, Rear Bumper Step Plate and Wheel Locks. Asking price $19,362 excluding Title & Registration fees. Invoice $18,885 and MSRP $20,340.
Scenario 2:
dealer 90 miles north, who would bring vehicle down from Portland area (I could just go up to Portland I guess), mostly email contact: 2004 automatic with ABS, MoonRoof & 6-CD Pkg, Xenon & TPMS Pkg, Appearance Package 1 and Leather seats.
Asking price $19,900 including $1000 MAC rebate (unverified) and excluding Title & Registration fees. Invoice $20,400 and MSRP $22,165.
Thanks for your time and help!
But if I had to negotiate, I certainly would not play monthly payment games with the dealer. My salesman tried that and didn't get very far after I told him I was comfortable with ~$500 per month at 36 months at 2.9% interest.
Do all the finance math in the comfort of your home. Tack on the appropriate fees/taxes and see what you are comfortable with. I used numbers from my credit union (2.9%-36 months or 4.9% for 48/60 months) and determined that I could handle 36 months. It also showed me that 36 months vs. 48 months saved me $1000 in interest.
Why play games games and say that you "can't afford" $290 but you can afford $280? If that 10$ REALLY matters you are spending too much on the car anyway. Just tell the salesman "I don't want to pay that".
Playing payment buy games just obscures things, like others have said. Unless you have a financial calculator handy, you are at a decided disadvantage. And, if you are comfortable with a financial calculator, you don't really need one.
If you can't use a financial calculator/Excel and go to a dealership and talk payments, I don't feel sorry for you if you get screwed.
Low price + low interest rate = low payments. That's all that should really matter. Talking solely about payments obscures whether you are getting a low price/low payment.
Jason
IMO - Both of these deals are OK - not super bargains - but you are not being grossly overcharged.
Buying a 2005 with these options for $19,362 ($477 over invoice) is not bad - Same for the 2004 - @ $500 under invoice.
With that said - you can always try and get a better deal (lower price).
But I think you need to decide what options you really want.
The 2004 has leather (invoice price of $507), appearance PKG (front spoiler & rear areo flares invoice price of $520) and also the xenon headlights and TPM system (invoice price of $602)
The 2005 has the rear step (invoice of $36) and the wheel locks ($32) which can be added to the 2004 if you want them.
I don't see any $1,000 off financing rebate - the only incentive I see on a 2004 hatch is:
Customer Incentive, 4.9% Financing (Expires 2-28-05) and a college grad rebate.
This $1,000 rebate sounds a little fishy - but it could be a local incentive.
If I use the Edmunds USED car value calculator with the options you listed on a 2004 I get a trade in value of $16,175, Private party sale price of $17,639 and a dealer retail sales price of $20,400.
Sounds like you really just want some advise on what to say to get them to lower the price. Is that right?
As far as the 2004 is concerned, I called Mazda North American Operations this morning and there isn't any incentive on it at all - it might be something the dealer up north is doing locally but I'm disappointed that he keeps saying "if you finance through MAC you get the $1000 rebate." I'm not exactly sure how to deal with him now...
While I don't need the extra options on the 2004, if I could get it for less than the 2005 I would consider it, especially since I keep cars a long time.
I would like to buy a car now since it's the end of the month but I can wait until the end of March I guess. Of course by then the cars I'm looking at might be gone!
I would handle the 2005 like this:
You offered them $19,000 - that is a good price ($115 over invoice) - they have called you twice - which is a good sign - they want the business. Tell them that you can get a much larger discount on a Mazda3 Hatch from the dealer that is 90 miles away - give them the dealers name - you can tell them it has the appearance package -something that is nice but you really don't need - and you are not crazy about driving 90 miles to pick it up - but for this good of a deal you would be willing to make the trip on Saturday. Truth is they are giving you a $2,265 discount ($1,287 more than the $978 they are offering) - it does have the appearance package - they are 90 miles away - (I assume you don't want to drive an extra 90 miles). Now I would not tell them it is a 2004 model - no need to even tell them what the price actually is / or how big the discount is. I always just say - I don't think it is right telling one dealer the price quoted from another - I also always add - I will not be giving your price to them either.
Then tell them you would rather buy from them - because you want to get the car serviced at the same place you buy it - and you (again) don't want to drive 90 miles for an oil change. Tell them you would be willing to pick the car up on Saturday - but your best offer is $19,000 plus tax - but no other fees (document or advertising) - stick to your offer - $19K is a fair price. You could also say - you are not in that big if a hurry to buy - and think that in a month or two Mazda may be offering a rebate or special interest rates - and you would feel bad if you bought now and missed out on a rebate.
Now for the 2004.
I wonder why they still have a 2004 model on the lot - ask them why - is it a demo? How many miles does it have? If it has any miles on it I would tell them you would rather have a car that does not have a bunch of test drive miles on it.
Tell them you are close to making a deal with the dealer right by your house on a 2005 hatch - that you have offered them $19K (I did not say I would not tell one dealer what I offered to pay another) - tell them that this car does not have the appearance package - or leather - but that these are not all that important - tell them you will buy the 2004 for $19K. You think that a 2004 with leather and appearance package is worth the same as a 2005 without these options.
At some point the extra time / bother is not worth the $75 you may save.
Good luck.
When you are financing a vehicle, the difference in payment amount will not be affected much even with a price difference of up to $500. At 6% interest, 60 month payment, the payment on financing $20,000 is 386.66. The payment on $19,500 is 376.99. This is a difference of $9.67 a month. The difference for these figures at 8% is $10.14. Unless your budget is very tight, this amount should not make a big difference. If you like the car you are looking at, and the dealer is being decent, keep in mind that a few hundred dollars off from your price won't make a huge difference in your payment.
The reason many car salesmen want to negotiate a monthly payment is because it is much easier to get someone to agree to an additional $10 a month than it is to get them to agree to pay $500 dollars more for the car. But as you have pointed out IT IS THE SAME THING.
The next time you want to throw $500 away give me a call I will gladly take it off your hands - even if you want to send it to me $10 at a time.