Toyota Tacoma 2005+

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Comments

  • trd4x4boytrd4x4boy Member Posts: 22
    Maybe you guys didn't read my post right....I already did the headlight mod...now I want to do a TAILIGHT mod, where the chrome under the red lenses are black so the whole tail light appears darker, much as if I had one of those Lund covers...but the tailights appear to be sealed up in a different way than the headlights...
  • ustazzafustazzaf Member Posts: 311
    You saw Myth Busters too huh! Never would have believed it if I didn't see it. Makes sense when they explain it though.
  • len888len888 Member Posts: 112
    I use 87 octane in my 2005 V6 Access Cab. No difference in peformance or mpg from 89 and 93. Today's vvti engine has a computor sensor to handle 87. I do put in an occassional tank of 89 and enven less often 93 thinking that it may be a cleaner burn for the injectors. Anyone else doing this?
  • len888len888 Member Posts: 112
    Fold A Cover as a company protects sales outlets and as far as I know will not sell direct to end user. After they determined there were no 'franchises' near to where I live, they put me in touch with the nearest Distributor.

    Ask Fold A Cover for franchises near to where you reside and if you are elidgible for their recommending a Distributor.
  • len888len888 Member Posts: 112
    I noticed that my paint chips very easy from tire pebbles being thrown from other vehicles. Is this because of Cheap paint use for the 2005 Taco? My local body shop says that paint in general is not as 'durable' since lead was eliminated. Anyone else getting 'chipped'?
  • tacomachotacomacho Member Posts: 5
    Thank you again. I apreciate you taking the time to provided me with your info.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Member Posts: 311
    Toyota is not known for a quality paint. I am on my third Toy, and none of them have been real good paint. I would rather put a grand into a new paint job when I want to do it, rather than a grand in parts into the competition when they choose to leave me stranded. Go Toyota!
  • autobahntacoautobahntaco Member Posts: 9
    I ordered Donahoe racings 2.5 Coilovers, with total chaos upper uniball a-arms and deaver rear springs from wheeler's and I am wondering if anyone else has that setup. I also ordered mickey thompson classic locks in 16x8 with 285/75 BFG m/t's to compliment the lift. C'mon mailman!
  • bowen1bowen1 Member Posts: 12
    That sounds like a great combo!">
  • toytrucktoytruck Member Posts: 67
    >I noticed that my paint chips very easy from tire pebbles being thrown from other vehicles. ...... Anyone else getting 'chipped'? <

    Yes, http://www.geocities.com/toytruck86/paintchip.html

    I resolved it by retaining an attorney.
  • atticus18atticus18 Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone have a new ECU chip for their Taco
  • autobahntacoautobahntaco Member Posts: 9
    Most imports don't have "chips" that are removable. You have to send in the whole ECU and they flash the memory to change stoichiometric ratio, timing advance, and even shift points for an automatic tranny. The 1GRFE has such a high compression ratio I am hesitant to advance the timing or lean out the fuel much. It already pings when running low octane or lugging the engine so I can't see spending the $500+ bucks to get the ECU flashed. But if you need a few extra ponies at the cost of engine longevity JET performance will gladly remap your brain-
  • woofwoof Member Posts: 27
    ..was just going to ask the same question... I'm still waiting for my '06 PreRunner V6 to arrive and wondered what differences I'd see between fuel grades, as I understand the premium is "recommended." While my T100 did not specify a grade of gas, it always ran best on plus. My wife's RAV runs best on plus or premium--quicker off the line and no lag. I suspect that Toyota's engine management system permits a wide operating range for fuel (octane) ratings, allowing ignition timing to be adjusted over a wide range, both advance and retard. Interestingly, my Honda Accord shows NO difference between fuel grades--it's a waste to use higher octane, and the owners manual alludes to this fact. I'm curious to see how my new V6 PreRunner will act. I'd like to get some input from Toyota on how it was designed/why they chose premium fuel.
  • jl_upsnyjl_upsny Member Posts: 1
    I have an '05 V6 Access Cab 4x4 w/ manual trans. At low RPMs I am getting a very audible rattle when applying the throttle in 2nd gear (say around 1000-1200 rpms, like when you're coasting through a stop sign). I can also here the rattle when dropping the clutch into first, although the noise is much less than when in 2nd. *Note that this is not the vibratory noise you get when you are on the brink of stalling the motor. Has anyone had this problem? Anything is appreciated, thanks!
  • ronk44ronk44 Member Posts: 35
    Please don't settle for that much -- I got 4.25% this summer from a credit union here in the Southern California area. When it was time to make the deal (with the finance guy), I simply complained about my payment when we added the alarm and a warranty -- he actually suggested that we try a local credit union -- saved me 1.50% on the spot!

    Good luck!
  • indigo_inkindigo_ink Member Posts: 23
    To get better performance from higher octane fuel you need a higher compression engine. In an older vehicle higher octane can reduce pinging but won't really give you any performance increase.

    The Tacoma does have a high compression engine.

    I used 91 octane for the first 10,000 km, but have switch back to lower 87 as there really was not that big a difference and the truck still has power to spare. The initial run-in on 91 though may have helped.

    I would guess that Toyota gave the Tacoma a higher compression engine to give it better fuel economy numbers. Something they have promoted in all the advertising.

    Even on 87 the manual 6 speed is and absolute blast to drive and after 13,000 km the engine noise is much more growly and less mechanically then before.

    4x4 Access Cab
  • tacotechtacotech Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info 054x4dc. Your insight will definitely help me make a decision.
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Member Posts: 300
    The part number is the one and only part number for the spring assembly.

    I don't know if there is a TSB. The SM seemed to think it was simply a running production change, hence the lack of a new p/n.
  • yrffejyrffej Member Posts: 47
    just what is the compression ratio? although the manual suggests high octaine, it doesn't require it.
  • indigo_inkindigo_ink Member Posts: 23
    The compression ratio is 10.00. I guess the ability to run lower grade fuel is due to the VVTi and the ECU.

    There is an interesting article on compression ratio here: http://e30m3performance.com/myths/more_myths1/comp_ratio/comp_ratio.htm
  • trd4x4boytrd4x4boy Member Posts: 22
    check the manual on when you are supposed to be shifting...you may simply be bogging down the motor...for instance, if i accelerated away from a "stop" at like 10 mph in 2nd gear, i should really be in 1st because of my rpms...1st gear is good through 15mph or 2500 rpm...2nd is good through 25mph or 2500 rpm and so on...
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Member Posts: 300
    I forgot to mention...

    The major change is the shape, and possibly the size, of the bottom leaf. The ends are gently curved down, away from the center leaf. The bottom leaf also appears thicker, but that may be an illusion.

    Overall, a more elegant solution than the rubber pads. I don't detect a ride difference. Friday, I'll be towing ~3500. If I don't bring it up again, assume that towing feels the same, too.
  • yrffejyrffej Member Posts: 47
    where'd you get your info about the compression ratio? i went to kbb.com their specs for the 4.0 '05&06 state 9.6:1.
  • gandalf1gandalf1 Member Posts: 62
    With all this discussion regarding paint, does anyone know how long you should wait before the first wax job? It is possible a paint job is only a week or two old if you pick up a truck right after it arrives at the dealership, so does the paint require more time to 'cure' before waxing?
  • lonwlonw Member Posts: 29
    When I had my SnugTop cap installed, which used the same Toyota color paint formula as my truck, they said to let it cure for a month before waxing.

    I guess you could apply that cure time to the truck body paint also.
  • len888len888 Member Posts: 112
    The local Body shop known here for their excellence recommends waxing no sooner than 8 weeks after applying the clearcoat. Meanwhile, water wash.
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Member Posts: 300
    Are you guys aware that many dealers wax new cars as part of the prep?
  • indigo_inkindigo_ink Member Posts: 23
    The DOHC Inline 4 is 9.6:1 (4 as in cylinders, not liters). Like I said, the V6 VVTi is 10.0:1
  • indigo_inkindigo_ink Member Posts: 23
    I believe most detailing places will use a "cut polish" before applying wax. It is important that the paint is fully cured before doing this. Regular wax isn't a problem. I would recommend using one that is "safe on clear coats".
  • gandalf1gandalf1 Member Posts: 62
    Thanks to all who offered opinions on this! Think I'll give it 3 months to make sure, and plenty of washes before then.

    Also, I normally use Zymol(?), does anyone know whether it's suitable for the Tacoma?
  • yrffejyrffej Member Posts: 47
    like i said..... kbb.com lists the 4.0liter v6 at 9.6:1. btw kbb also lists the 4cyl 2.7liter at 9.5:1.... where did you get your info?
  • gymbogymbo Member Posts: 37
    Does anyone else notice that their 5 speed auto shifts into 5'th at 32 or so mph.Its a little over a thousand rpm's and seems to lug the engine somewhat.I guess it helps the mileage.
  • dockeendockeen Member Posts: 68
    I noticed something like that. Though the lugging seems minimal to me.

    I have also noticed the flip side when driving through our neighborhood at the posted 25 MPH - the RPM actually feels a little high.

    Wayne
  • ronk44ronk44 Member Posts: 35
    If you are supposed to wait, I've broken the rule. Of course, I always have waxed my vehicles, for many years, every month or two for the life of the vehicle. I've had my truck now since June and have waxed at least a portion of the vehicle each month since buying it. I'll do the sides one month and the top and hood the next.

    I guess I'll find out whether I made a good or a bad decision (with my Tacoma) some day. My 1994 Chevy Pickup (Silver) looked pretty darn good (shined) the day I sold it in July.

    It's almost December -- a few more weeks means another light wax job.

    Good luck.
  • mmm5mmm5 Member Posts: 5
    fresh paint does actually take up to a month to actually dry. a breathable sealant is recommended to protect the paint. wax is fine to apply. polishing should not be done during this period.

    as far as new cars from the dealer, the vehicle has more than likely been painted for at least a month when the customer takes delivery. polishing is not necessary as the paint is still in very good condition.

    i have not had any problems with any of my cars using this car care method.
  • yrffejyrffej Member Posts: 47
    thanks for the links, and info.... conflicting info always puzzles me. i finally called toyota, and as you said 10.0:1
  • nelsoch1nelsoch1 Member Posts: 2
    I have the 2005 extended cab with the 2.7 ltr and I am only get 19/23. This does not seem reasonable to me. What do you think?
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Member Posts: 300
    What does the window sticker say for an EPA estimate?
  • nsxwesnsxwes Member Posts: 84
    Since Toyota does not install body side molding on the Tacoma (it does on the Tundra) to help protect the doors from door dings has anyone found a supplier of body side molding that is color-keyed to the vehicle that looks like a factory installation?
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Member Posts: 471
    You can wax your truck the day you buy it. My Taco was straight off of the delivery truck and I waxed and glazed the 2nd day I owned it. The paint is cured from the factory.

    The only time you need to hold off on waxing is when you have paint or body work done.
  • dockeendockeen Member Posts: 68
    Only tangentially related, FWIW:

    I got my cap for my Taco today. It had of course been painted some time in the last couple of weeks. The advice from the shop that I got it from was not to wax for 60 days.

    Clearly trucks, even trucks ust off the truck, like mine was, are a different case.

    Wayne
  • atticus18atticus18 Member Posts: 6
    Can anyone find me a Cold Air intake for a 2006 Taco? I only seem to find intakes for 2005 and below none for 2006
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Member Posts: 471
    I haven't done anything to the tail lights, and I've never looked that close at 'em. Sorry.
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Member Posts: 471
    They both use the same intakes. Just order an 05 intake for your 06. 05 and 06 parts are the same. The only different parts are the air sensors on the wheels.
  • atticus18atticus18 Member Posts: 6
    Alright Thnx for the help :)
  • jadamjrjadamjr Member Posts: 28
    Toytruck,

    You said you retained an attourney. Was this to file a lemon law against toyota or just to pressure the dealership into repainting your truck. I was in the same boat. I complained and complained to my dealer and finally they repainted the damaged sections of my truck. I had chips on all doors, hood and the fenders in front of the rear wheels. The truck had to be painted three times to get it back to show room condition. I did contact a lemon law lawyer who stated I had a case against Toyota. My lawyer is pushing for monitary damages from them. I have my first scheduled hearing in Feburary of 2006.
  • psu2psu2 Member Posts: 1
    DOes anyone know of any web sites for smaller accessories for a 2005 tacoma? Nothing to specific. Im a new owner and I just want to see what is out there. Thanks. :)
  • vincewood30vincewood30 Member Posts: 48
    I have a '05 Tacoma prerunner with the 4 cylinder/5 speed. When I go to let off the accelerator from between 13-8 MPH I hear a clunk and a noise that sounds like a washer or something is loose somewhere. But it only does it at those speeds. My truck only has 7,400 miles on it. Anyone have any idea what it could be? It sounds like it's coming from the rear-end somewhere.

    Update on clutch problem: So far the noise hasn't come back after having a new inside clutch assembly put in. I'm still waiting for it to come back though.
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