Tzo I am working on bringing in a set of (5) MTR's coming in from the UK. They are definetly the way to go for snow & mud. The stock Wranglers are too tame! We should connect somehow if you want a set?
I would like to mention also that I did not deactivate DSC while stuck. Rereading the manual, that appears to be LR's suggestion when stuck.
Johnmajor, very cool. Can you tell me what source you are using? My local Goodyear retailer will call HQ tomorrow AM to find out if he can acquire these. I will know by tomorrow. I also asked LR San Jose (my local dealer) and he never heard of this option.
Does this bbs support private messages? I want to send you my email address, but not here, where it can be picked up for even more spam.
Not yet but you can make your email address visible in your user profile so other members who want to contact you can do so. That's a much better alternative to publishing your address in a public message.
Click on the "Forum Profile" in the left column near the top of this page to change your user profile.
Alright, I'm almost certain to take the plunge on the LR3. Test drove it Saturday and it drives w-a-yyy better then anything else I've ever pushed a gas pedal on.
But here's a question: I travel often with one or more kayaks on my vehicle and need a sturdy rack. On my Fords I've used and been pleased with a Thule rack attached to Thule crossbars, but neither the Land Rover dealer I spoke with nor the websites of Land Rover, Thule (or Yakima, another rack maker) identified any racks that would work on the LR3 with a relatively bulky (60 lbs per kayak) roof load. (I may make my purchase from another dealer, since I wasn't thrilled with this one's level of knowledge.) I know the LR3 can come with factory crossbars, but I doubt they'd be strong enough for a couple of kayaks. Has anyone else installed aftermarket roofracks and crossbars on the LR3? Thanks again.
Unfortunately the same problem happened again over last weekend after we had drive almost 35 miles to the destination. After we pull in the parking lot the HDC, break and ABS transmission faults/warning lights came on. Eventhough the dealer had fixed the same problem last week. One thing I found interesting is that for all 3 times this same incident occurred, I had used the "second" key handset. While driving with another handset I had not encountered any problems. I had voice this concern to the dealer last time when the car was brought in, yet they claimed it wasnt the key that caused the problem. Anyway, the car is going back in the shop tomorrow morning. Will update again.
I bought the LR3 factory crossbars, which lock into the already installed factory rails. They appear to be very sturdy - I can't believe two kayaks at 120 pounds would be any problem at all. I can't remember the spec for the rack, though I believe it wasn't alot more than 100lbs. But I think they are being way conservative. I'll bet the cross bars could handle 200lbs, esp distributed across multiple points. No problem at all. Go for it.
Maybe. I carry canoes on my van and didn't trust the Nissan factory racks with Yakima bars attached (I tried some and took them back). But I think they were rated for ~100 pounds.
Jjgghh, did you ask Yak or Thule for a time line for developing clips for their towers? It usually takes a while for them to come out with stuff for the new models.
I had this happen to me as well. Stange problem. Nothing would bring the sound back but the next time I started up everything was back to normal. It hasn't happened since.
I had a more worrying issue at the weekend though. It was cold, wet and dark. I stopped outside a hotel lobby and checked-in. Returned to the vehicle and put the key in the ignition. Lights came on etc, etc. Turned the key and 'click' - ALL power shut off. Removed the key and tried again but it was completely dead. I waited about 30 seconds before steam blasted from my ears and ... it had reset and everything worked again as normal. The memory settings were kept but the clock lost it's setting.
After the reset everything has been fine. I drove 150 miles on forest roads, through snow, torrential rain, freeway driving etc, etc, on the next day and no problems at all. It's a bummer trying to explain to the dealer though.
Has anyone fitted anything substantial on their Expedition Rack? I'm looking for a source for fittings for a hi-lift jack & shovel/ax. The rack isn't standard so there don't appear to be any 3rd party options from Yakima/Thule etc that would fit.
I may have to have something made up to fit into the rails instead of the tie-hooks. Any suggestions?
Gwelland, what do you think of those Wrangler HP tires? Since you've done snow and forest roads, what's been your experience. I am going to add Goodyear MT/Rs for the winter and keep the HPs for summer freeway use only.
To be honest I would prefer a better snow tyre. Forest road & trail work seems ok and I really can't complain about the road manners. I haven't done much rock trail work beyond new logging trails and certainly no rock crawling etc.
I recently did a couple of long snow treks in 6-18in and found the lack of traction on a couple of occasions a problem requiring some work to get unstuck. In both cases the problem was that it's easy to dig the tyres into the snow/ice and some more lateral tread or more aggressive tread pattern could have avoided having to either dig out or winch.
I doubt that I'll need to worry about it any more this year but I'd definitely look at a more grippy winter tyre next year. I'd even consider the ridiculously expensive ($650!) LR rear chains. (ok, maybe not).
Unfortunately it's a trade off between on-road manners and off-road performance. For me it's an 80-20 mix so far (I'm off in the forests most weekends for photography) which I suspect might be more off-road than a lot of people actually do. That said, I don't want to ruin the on-road performance if I can avoid it.
HP's seem fine on the highway. Not quite as good as my X5 on the road but a lot better than I had expected. They definitely work a lot better in slushy snow than my X5 ever did.
It mounts into the rails on the roof and has a couple of feet that lock into a rail above front seats too. The rack itself is raised off the roof by about 2 inches and has horizontal rails across. These rails have a sliding slot for mounting tie-downs. The front of the rack does reduce the usefulness of the sun-roof as the wind guard at the front effectively puts the sun-roof in shadow. If you're in the back you still get light in through the roof since there are only horizontal cross bars there.
It's not exactly quiet or unobtrusive. I have to drop my LR3 to access height to get it into my garage with the rack on. Also, it's not the type of thing that you can easily remove regularly as it's pretty bulky, heavy and fixes tightly to the vehicle.
Gas mileage ... don't ask. I'm getting 13-14mpg but I don't know how that compares with others. Off road MPG obviously is less. Once I've got some extra fixtures for my rack I'll be happier - nobody seems to have anything at the moment and even LR don't have part numbers or the ability to order extra tie-down hooks for it. Noise isn't too bad considering the size of the rack.
On another board, which I can't mention because of Edmund's TOS, there is a thread reagarding this and the final answer came from a Kentucky LR salesperson who said "I have a client that kayaks all over North America and has travelled from Alaska to Key West with his 18 ft (m?) kayak strapped to the top of his Range Rover using the factory roof rail system and kayak carrier. He's never had a problem with the system at all. The kayak carrier he uses works on the new LR3. I think I would make sure and tie the front of the kayak down, but it seems to work well for him. "
The stock HP's on the 19" rims are really nice on-road. Very quiet and they track well. But the snow performance just plain doesn't cut it. When I got stuck, it was also cause the tires spun out to the pavement then couldn't climb out of the little rut they created in doing so.
I am probably 15% on snow/offroad and 85% on road, but I want that 20% to be absolutely rock solid and not get stuck. I don't mind a little more noise on the other 85% to make sure I never get stuck.
Let's hope it's feet! I used to carry 16 foot tandem on a Tercel and my old CJ-5, and I thought the overhang from those rigs was bad, but 18 meters would be something else.
the car is in the shop again for the same problem happened last Sunday and yesterday. We also proved one point, the keys/handset was not the issue as we had used different key to drive last night and same problem occurs.
there were some postings on another forum about 17" wheels on eBay for the LR3. I saw this post in another forum about possible problems with those 17" wheels and our US LR3's... read here:
"In the UK the V8 has bigger brake discs than the TDV6. The smallest wheel available on the V8 is 18", whilst the base diesel comes with a 17", so the 17" may not fit the V8 with it's larger discs. I'm don't knowif this applies outside of the UK
This is a quote from the Discovery 3 Product Directory: 'The wheels have been specified to accommodate the generously-sized brake discs. The entry-level wheel is 17 inches in diameter and seven inches wide while the standard wheel is 18 inches in diameter and eight inches wide to accomodate larger brakes. A premium wheel is available on certain models and is of 19 inch diameter and eight inches width'
Disc sizes are quoted as: TDV6 and V6 petrol - Front 317x30mm, Rear 325x20mm V8 petrol - Front 337x30mm, Rear 350x20mm"
I know. But how would I go about doing that? this time I contacted the customers relations manager and voice my concern. Does dealers just give out replacements without going through lemon law process?
Picked up my White HSE today and handed over the SIlver HSE...Pretty painless. I am very impressed with the way the dealer handled it.
Back on topic.
I stopped by a "boutique car dealer" on the way home, that specializes in high end audio/video, regarding a backup camera. He saidadding a backup camera to the LR3 is not a problem. He will call me with the details/pricing in the AM.
hung3 - I was pretty surprised at how easily the dealer agreed to buy my vehicle back. My vehicle had some pretty bad paint issues that would have required extensive repainting. Which, would ulitmately hurt the value of the vehicle.
It can't hurt to try it. But, you should suggest they buy it back..Not ask.
Yep, it's realtively easy to wedge a backup camera (or evil DVD player output) to any existing video screen. The good ol' direct bypass works everytime.
Webbuzz There are inputs back of the video screen for backup camera. You dont need to bypass anything. Settings menu (the hidden ones) have config for the camera. I sent you the info on the details where to get the info.
I have a White HSE on order (since 01/05) with my local LR dealer. In late Feb. they bought a white HSE from a "wholesaler" that is very similar to the one I have on order. However it has 4,000 miles on it. Of course it is new condition, and they have accepted my offer of $50,000 for it. They only concerns I have is how it was taken care of during the 4,000 miles and if it was a demo or something like that. The dealer, which I know very well since we have purchased two Discovery's in the past assures me that it was not a demo, and is in sound shape. I just worry that it may have some issues that were on this board.
Do you think this is a good deal or should I wait for the one I have on order?
My two cents - for just a few thousand dollars I would wait for one in the wrapping. In my case I only buy a new care every 10 years. If you buy one more often, perhpas it's not a big deal for you.
Thanks for the reply.....I do buy one a little more often. Something is telling me to wait, but then when I see it on the lot and it is the same color and all it is telling me to buy......tough decision.
They are giving me a great price on my trade and I would hate to wait to long on the one I have on order and lose the value of the trade.
Did you confirm this yourself or are you still guessing?
My last comment said: I haven't pulled apart the system to actually see if there is a non-MOST analog input somewhere directly on the Navigation electronics. It's always possible my contacts were misled by "MOST" marketing and the '06 Range camera is just plain wire run to the screen. from "Land Rover LR3" #1800, 9 Mar 2005 7:20 pm
Also note that the basic diag code is "read only." You are going to have a lot of trouble changing anything.
Please send pointers if you really do know someone that has achieved this.
Thank you so much webbuzz for the tip. I will suggest to the dealer as this issue has really got into our nerves. We love the LR3 so much, fully loaded it even with DVD system nevermind the aux. noise which is still pending for update/fix) just to find out the car got this problem.
Go to the back of the screen & you will find the input. The source in the UK plugs a camera directly to that input. I have no idea if its a RR camera or not!
You should at least have the dealer provide a car fax history on the vehicle. That should catch a past service problem. Be patient. The newer vehicles coming over are most likely going to have less "bugs" as the factory gets them worked out. Chances are it would be worth the wait. I have had my HSE on order since the middle of Dec. in the Bay Area with an original delivery date of March. Now its due the first week of May. Im just waiting, although I cant say patiently!
Hung, have you tried calling Land Rover corporate. I emailed into them about my coolant leak and they quickly responded with a number to call to discuss with an LR corporate rep. I didn't follow up, but perhaps you can try this route to get more attention on the matter.
WAIT! Who knows where it came from with so few miles... Probably from someone whose check bounced or a buy-back. When I put down a deposit, the dealer only promised me a factory slot delivery in two months....But they would try to 'dealer-trade' if they could find one. I know they kept working on it even after I gave them the $$$. I asked for three exterior colors and only black interior and the more loaded the better. 18 days later I got a call to confirm and had it on the lot in 3 hours. This from a small town dealer. If it had been three months for me, my dealer would be thinking restraining order! Btw, get black interior, not tan. Stains on the Tan show for life.
Cool, this could be a way to go. I talk to the customer service manager at the dealer yesterday regarding a possible replacement. And the guy just dodge every question I throw at him and even told me to hire a lawyer and enforce lemon law if the problem happens again.
Wonder if you still have LR corporate's email on file? can you provide me. much appreciated.
There are several steps you need to follow to enact the lemon law(california). I had a problem with a new Chevy with tranny problems. The web address for the state is www.carconsumers.com or try autopedia.com. I contacted an attorney as they get paid by the mfg. My problem was quickly resolved. You have to contact the Mfg. and notify them. So let the dealer know what you intend to do and hopefully when thy see your serious youll be treated appropriately. Good luck!
Hung, here is the excerpt from the email exchange I had. My guess is that LR will not want the current momentum of LR3 sales spoiled by reports of Lemon Law enactments... I'll bet they respond forthrightly.
"Due to the nature of your inquiry, we ask that you please contact our Customer Relationship Center by phone at 1-800-637-6837, option 9, at your earliest convenience. A representative will take some information from you and then look into these issues further - please have your vehicle identification number (VIN) handy. He or she will speak with your retailer to obtain more information on this matter and then assist you with the necessary repairs or in any other way possible."
Thank you guys for your warm response to my inquiries. I will use every suggestions going forward. Thank you for your assistance.
As of today, I was being told by the service manager that they still have 3 technician looking into the problem on my car. So no further info is available until next week. I was glad that the dealer was able to reproduce the same problem while test driving it. This did not happen for the previous 2 times the car was in the shop. At least now the problem will be clearly logged in the dealer's service record.
My LR3 just had another total computer failure: same thing exactly as before. So the last week at the dealer's made no difference, it appears.
How it happens: I leave the car outside around for 8 hours at a temperature around freezing (last time minus 5 Celsius, this time plus 3 Celcius). I get into the car and start; it works and then all hell breaks loose, all the alarm lights and the gong come on; "no low range available" shows, and the handbrake applies by itself. (That is the most worrying).
I remove the key; all continues and then after 5 seconds it all stops. I wait a further few seconds and start again and all is OK.
This seems a computer start problem. But it is unacceptable for several reasons:
- It might NOT start again properly. And this happened up North, miles and miles from a dealer. On a Saturday.
- It might get worse over time, as the warranty expires in a few years, and get expensive.
- ANY fault that causes the handbrake to come on by itself is a big no-no, a potential safety hazard.
I'll get back with LR and the dealer on Monday or Tuesday.
Comments
I am working on bringing in a set of (5) MTR's coming in from the UK. They are definetly the way to go for snow & mud. The stock Wranglers are too tame!
We should connect somehow if you want a set?
Johnmajor, very cool. Can you tell me what source you are using? My local Goodyear retailer will call HQ tomorrow AM to find out if he can acquire these. I will know by tomorrow. I also asked LR San Jose (my local dealer) and he never heard of this option.
Does this bbs support private messages? I want to send you my email address, but not here, where it can be picked up for even more spam.
Not yet but you can make your email address visible in your user profile so other members who want to contact you can do so. That's a much better alternative to publishing your address in a public message.
Click on the "Forum Profile" in the left column near the top of this page to change your user profile.
tidester, host
Look at my post #1876 regarding the brush guard and winch. Mudflap pix are there also.
Thanks for the pics.
~R
John, pls check your earthlink mail... I am ready to go in on a set of MTRs.
But here's a question: I travel often with one or more kayaks on my vehicle and need a sturdy rack. On my Fords I've used and been pleased with a Thule rack attached to Thule crossbars, but neither the Land Rover dealer I spoke with nor the websites of Land Rover, Thule (or Yakima, another rack maker) identified any racks that would work on the LR3 with a relatively bulky (60 lbs per kayak) roof load. (I may make my purchase from another dealer, since I wasn't thrilled with this one's level of knowledge.) I know the LR3 can come with factory crossbars, but I doubt they'd be strong enough for a couple of kayaks. Has anyone else installed aftermarket roofracks and crossbars on the LR3? Thanks again.
They appear to be very sturdy - I can't believe two kayaks at 120 pounds would be any problem at all. I can't remember the spec for the rack, though I believe it wasn't alot more than 100lbs. But I think they are being way conservative. I'll bet the cross bars could handle 200lbs, esp distributed across multiple points. No problem at all. Go for it.
Jjgghh, did you ask Yak or Thule for a time line for developing clips for their towers? It usually takes a while for them to come out with stuff for the new models.
Steve, Host
I had a more worrying issue at the weekend though. It was cold, wet and dark. I stopped outside a hotel lobby and checked-in. Returned to the vehicle and put the key in the ignition. Lights came on etc, etc. Turned the key and 'click' - ALL power shut off. Removed the key and tried again but it was completely dead. I waited about 30 seconds before steam blasted from my ears and ... it had reset and everything worked again as normal. The memory settings were kept but the clock lost it's setting.
After the reset everything has been fine. I drove 150 miles on forest roads, through snow, torrential rain, freeway driving etc, etc, on the next day and no problems at all. It's a bummer trying to explain to the dealer though.
Graham
LR3 HSE, 4600 miles.
I may have to have something made up to fit into the rails instead of the tie-hooks. Any suggestions?
Anyone else got one?
I recently did a couple of long snow treks in 6-18in and found the lack of traction on a couple of occasions a problem requiring some work to get unstuck. In both cases the problem was that it's easy to dig the tyres into the snow/ice and some more lateral tread or more aggressive tread pattern could have avoided having to either dig out or winch.
I doubt that I'll need to worry about it any more this year but I'd definitely look at a more grippy winter tyre next year. I'd even consider the ridiculously expensive ($650!) LR rear chains. (ok, maybe not).
Unfortunately it's a trade off between on-road manners and off-road performance. For me it's an 80-20 mix so far (I'm off in the forests most weekends for photography) which I suspect might be more off-road than a lot of people actually do. That said, I don't want to ruin the on-road performance if I can avoid it.
HP's seem fine on the highway. Not quite as good as my X5 on the road but a lot better than I had expected. They definitely work a lot better in slushy snow than my X5 ever did.
It mounts into the rails on the roof and has a couple of feet that lock into a rail above front seats too. The rack itself is raised off the roof by about 2 inches and has horizontal rails across. These rails have a sliding slot for mounting tie-downs. The front of the rack does reduce the usefulness of the sun-roof as the wind guard at the front effectively puts the sun-roof in shadow. If you're in the back you still get light in through the roof since there are only horizontal cross bars there.
It's not exactly quiet or unobtrusive. I have to drop my LR3 to access height to get it into my garage with the rack on. Also, it's not the type of thing that you can easily remove regularly as it's pretty bulky, heavy and fixes tightly to the vehicle.
Gas mileage ... don't ask. I'm getting 13-14mpg but I don't know how that compares with others. Off road MPG obviously is less. Once I've got some extra fixtures for my rack I'll be happier - nobody seems to have anything at the moment and even LR don't have part numbers or the ability to order extra tie-down hooks for it. Noise isn't too bad considering the size of the rack.
I am probably 15% on snow/offroad and 85% on road, but I want that 20% to be absolutely rock solid and not get stuck. I don't mind a little more noise on the other 85% to make sure I never get stuck.
Let's hope it's feet! I used to carry 16 foot tandem on a Tercel and my old CJ-5, and I thought the overhang from those rigs was bad, but 18 meters would be something else.
Steve, Host
"In the UK the V8 has bigger brake discs than the TDV6. The smallest wheel available on the V8 is 18", whilst the base diesel comes with a 17", so the 17" may not fit the V8 with it's larger discs. I'm don't knowif this applies outside of the UK
This is a quote from the Discovery 3 Product Directory:
'The wheels have been specified to accommodate the generously-sized brake discs. The entry-level wheel is 17 inches in diameter and seven inches wide while the standard wheel is 18 inches in diameter and eight inches wide to accomodate larger brakes. A premium wheel is available on certain models and is of 19 inch diameter and eight inches width'
Disc sizes are quoted as:
TDV6 and V6 petrol - Front 317x30mm, Rear 325x20mm
V8 petrol - Front 337x30mm, Rear 350x20mm"
Back on topic.
I stopped by a "boutique car dealer" on the way home, that specializes in high end audio/video, regarding a backup camera. He saidadding a backup camera to the LR3 is not a problem. He will call me with the details/pricing in the AM.
It can't hurt to try it. But, you should suggest they buy it back..Not ask.
There are inputs back of the video screen for backup camera. You dont need to bypass anything.
Settings menu (the hidden ones) have config for the camera.
I sent you the info on the details where to get the info.
Do you think this is a good deal or should I wait for the one I have on order?
Thanks!
They are giving me a great price on my trade and I would hate to wait to long on the one I have on order and lose the value of the trade.
Steve, Host
Did you confirm this yourself or are you still guessing?
My last comment said: I haven't pulled apart the system to actually see if there is a non-MOST analog input somewhere directly on the Navigation electronics. It's always possible my contacts were misled by "MOST" marketing and the '06 Range camera is just plain wire run to the screen.
from "Land Rover LR3" #1800, 9 Mar 2005 7:20 pm
Also note that the basic diag code is "read only." You are going to have a lot of trouble changing anything.
Please send pointers if you really do know someone that has achieved this.
The source in the UK plugs a camera directly to that input. I have no idea if its a RR camera or not!
screens on the nav on the hse?
Thanks
Paul
Fill in your email address on profile & I'll send details where to find the info.
Thanks
Paul
Wonder if you still have LR corporate's email on file? can you provide me. much appreciated.
"Due to the nature of your inquiry, we ask that you please contact our
Customer Relationship Center by phone at 1-800-637-6837, option 9, at
your earliest convenience. A representative will take some information
from you and then look into these issues further - please have your
vehicle identification number (VIN) handy. He or she will speak with
your retailer to obtain more information on this matter and then assist
you with the necessary repairs or in any other way possible."
As of today, I was being told by the service manager that they still have 3 technician looking into the problem on my car. So no further info is available until next week. I was glad that the dealer was able to reproduce the same problem while test driving it. This did not happen for the previous 2 times the car was in the shop. At least now the problem will be clearly logged in the dealer's service record.
How it happens: I leave the car outside around for 8 hours at a temperature around freezing (last time minus 5 Celsius, this time plus 3 Celcius). I get into the car and start; it works and then all hell breaks loose, all the alarm lights and the gong come on; "no low range available" shows, and the handbrake applies by itself. (That is the most worrying).
I remove the key; all continues and then after 5 seconds it all stops. I wait a further few seconds and start again and all is OK.
This seems a computer start problem. But it is unacceptable for several reasons:
- It might NOT start again properly. And this happened up North, miles and miles from a dealer. On a Saturday.
- It might get worse over time, as the warranty expires in a few years, and get expensive.
- ANY fault that causes the handbrake to come on by itself is a big no-no, a potential safety hazard.
I'll get back with LR and the dealer on Monday or Tuesday.
Michael