Waiting to see about my son (he is junior in college now). we were discussing cars when he was home last week on break. He may hold out, after we discussed the financial implications of getting a job (please!) and rushing right out to get a new car.
as of now, if it is still going strong, he plans to keep running the Acura until it gives him a reason not to.
Though we do have a bet as to who gets a BMW first!
getting a job (please!) and rushing right out to get a new car
One of my college roommates was two years older and did exactly that, well before his first day of work. His salt of the earth farmer folks thought he was crazy to celebrate his job with a new car but you know kids. I pretty much did the same thing, but I *had* to have a way to get to my job.
I *hate* the rims on that 540, and it's at a BHPH lot, and they claim it's a five speed manual when it's actually a six speed. Looks like it has the sport package but no mention of how many miles?
Found a nice enclosed trailer that fit the bill on CL yesterday and bought it today. However, now I'm kind of doubting my truck's abilities. I stopped by the Ford dealer and talked with my salesguy and sales manager. They made me an offer on my truck and are looking for a truck that would fit the bill. I have to say I was very suprised, I expected a much harder hit on a 10 month old american truck.
I found one truck that was absolutely perfect, hit all the marks, BUT, OMG how does one destroy the body of a truck THAT bad in only 5 years (truck was an 07) and 77k miles??? It was way more damage than I could overlook.
They had a couple Ford trucks, one 08 F-250 and one 08 F-350, both with the 6.8L V10, clean trucks, but gas pigs. So, I'm not sure what I'll do. Guess play with the trailer a bit and go from there. As it sits we'd be running about 1000-1500 over tow capacity maybe less. The trailer was just too good of a deal to pass up.... :sick:
A reporter is hoping to interview car-shoppers under 34 years old to learn whether they are interested in the new "near-premium" offerings from Acura, Audi, Buick and Lexus.
I'm 33 and actually bought a Buick, should I chime in?
both with the 6.8L V10, clean trucks, but gas pigs. So, I'm not sure what I'll do.
You need a diesel to make that trip. The shame of it is, from reading your posts stuff is really high priced up there so selling it once you are down in lower 48 is going to be killer.
Keep the speeds low, change the tranny fluid and transfer case/rear diff fluid after the trip and hope for the best with the F150. I'm sure the engineers build in a little "fudge" factor for max towing capacity
Oh, forgot the rest of my post. I may not actually need a car.
Most likely, my job will officially become work from home soon (running out of seats in the building, and I don't really have to be on site it seems). Plus, i am only getting a car because my Daughter will be able to drive on he own and taking mine.
I realized though that outside of commuting, most of my driving is running her all over the place. Without those 2 activities, my car may sit for days at a time, and do 25 miles/week, especially if my wife has something nice and new that I like to drive!
Welcome to the world of telecommuting. I've been doing it for about 3 1/2 years.
It's amazing how your vehicle needs change once you start working from home and the kids can drive themselves. The ION, with only 66K on the clock, only gets miles put on it with the part-time pizza delivery I do and errands around town. It's hard to justify spending any amount of money on a car that gets driven like that, especially when you have the title to your current car in hand.
Best of luck!
When I was in college, I had the misfortune to total the car I was driving about 3 months before graduation. Wanted to buy a new car, but the folks talked me out of it as I didn't have a job lined up. So I took the insurance money and bought a beater to see me through those few months.
After graduation (and with a job offer in hand), I moved back to my hometown and bought a year old Honda Accord with 16K on it.
My first "new" car was an '88 Isuzu Trooper ... 120HP and an automatic. Lord, was that slow.
yeah, the wheels are pretty hideous. As is the black trim around the car. Mine is painted body color. Not sure why they differ in that respect. All 6-speeds were sport package cars, BTW.
An E39 isn't for you, I don't think. You really need to do your own maintenance to make it practical, IMHO. BUT, if you DO want one, I am really considering selling mine.
Yeah, I hate to do it... but I think the realization is setting in that I just don't have the time or money to maintain too many cars with needs. The Benz needs my attention. I think the 135 just broke its second wheel, not to mention I keep shopping for more modifications. I discovered not long ago the van is out of warranty, so I'll have to keep on top of that. It is currently in need of brakes all around. So, while the 540 hasn't presented any problems yet, it has 148k'ish miles, so how long can it hold out? I feel I might be better off selling it before it starts getting needy like all the other cars.
The MR2 is still on the block, too. Just have to find the time to get it "frontline ready." I took next Monday off hoping to get started on that.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Broke. I broke a rear one just a few weeks ago and paid to have that repaired. Unfortunately, I was in a rush to get it fixed and didn't read up on the fact that cracked 18" wheels are very common now on the bimmers. If I had read that first, I probably would have gone with option 2 and bought 4 new aftermarket wheels. Wheel repair shop told me afterwards that 75% of their biz is just BMW and Benz wheels. They are forged wheels, which is great, but then they machine them down too thin.
The repair cost $150. 4 wheels from tirerack are $600.
So the M-sport made the car uglier? That's unfortunate. And, yeah, I agree, I don't think the M-sport was in 2000. I much prefer my body colored moldings anyway.
Here's a pic of that rear wheel. Those 2 hairline cracks are the problem.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
the wheel issue (well documented by one of the car magazines on their LT tester 5 series) really puts me off new ones (well, that and the price). Just ridiculous IMO. And with the bombed out roads around here, not something i will drive.
I am just fine the the old school 55 series 16" on the base E46. Even the 2008 i was looking at was still a 17" (not sure the profile though), but RF.
On a new 3 series, even a base 328i, you can't get smaller than 18" wheels.
Yikes, I didn't know cracked wheels were such a problem on the newer BMWs and MBs. Sounds like a combination of low profile tires and excessive weight reduction (by machining the wheels too thin). They're probably not designed for our potholed roads.
The M5 had the same black trim (and no chrome around the windows). The M-sport package added the M5 suspension, body kit/trim, and shorter rear axle ratio to the 540. Essentially, it's an M5 with the 540 engine. The shorter axle ratio on the V8 automatic is pegged by the EPA at 15 city, 19 highway, or about the same as a new Escalade. :P
There was a recent "long-term wrap-up" in Car and Driver for a 528i - it was a rare stripper model with the sports package and a manual transmission. I can't remember the specifics, but they had to either repair or replace more than one wheel over its life with them. The repair shop stated those sport wheels are real soft.
When I think of what I'll eventually replace my e39 with, I generally figure it will be a newer 5, but seems the new model has lost its edge a bit, particularly against Audi. At the car show over the weekend, I was really admiring the A6 and A7 - perhaps in a couple years used ones will be affordable.
q - having visited NJ often when I traveled for business, I'm familiar with the (lack of) road quality there. Bummer that you've busted two wheels so far on the 135; do you plan on going the aftermarket route?
Yes, low profile, thin wheels, AND the unforgiving runflats all contribute.
Now, I had replaced the runflats with standard Continentals back in January. Whether the cracks happened before or after that is anyone's guess. They could have happened with the PO and I wouldn't have known. I do remember that one back wheel was grossly overinflated when I first brought it home, so it is quite possible it was being hidden from me. The leak was VERY VERY slow at first and just progressed with time until it finally got to the point that it deflated on my 35-mile commute home one day. That's when I took it off and discovered the problem.
The front one is just a guess at this time. I hit an invisible hole or lip in the road about 1.5 weeks ago with the right-front tire. It made me cringe, and I started watching the TPMS fanatically. Sure enough, it lit up this morning for that tire. UGH! I'll keep an eye on the pressure today and if it drops at all, I'll jack it up and take a look.
I have a double track day with BMWCCA coming up 4/16-4/17, so I can't waste any time sorting this out.
I do believe Lemmer is about right that C&D had to replace 2 and repair 2. It was quite a pricey endeavor. I was offered wheel/tire insurance by the selling dealer, but I turned it down obviously. Since I didn't plan on keeping the RFTs, I figured it didn't matter. And, really, a full set of aftermarket wheels is cheaper than the insurance anyway.
I'm considering these 2 options at the moment. They are $148 and $149 each, respectively. What do y'all think? My car is black sapphire, for those who don't remember.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I would never subject this (or any) car to track driving and I have no use for a stick. I guess that makes me a "Dork" too, huh?
If a car can't handle some track time once or twice a year, then it isn't worth much more than a penny.
I don't get why people would think track time is hard on a car. It isn't, if the car has any quality whatsoever. The only thing it is hard on are WEAR items, like brake pads, rotors, and tires.
Now if your driving around a piece of junk, yeah, driving it might kill it!
I was thinking a 2003 Accord Coupe V6 6-Speed manual souped up and modified a bit would make a fun track car. I saw in the new brochures they offer a High Performance strut and spring suspension kit, but the new one's are too big and nose heavy.
'18 Porsche Macan Turbo, '16 Audi TTS, Wife's '19 VW Tiguan SEL 4-Motion
If an "up" walks in at 8:45, they know that if the up wants to drive a car that they will be there until at least 9:30.
I worked on commission for a short while in life insurance sales. I hated it.
Having said that... if I knew a 9 o'clock appointment would be buying, I'd gladly work overtime happily! The extra half hour to hour is more than worth a sale, don't you think?
It sounds like going in at 8:45 might be the best time then, as the salespeaple, manager, and FI person will cut through all the bullcrap and just offer a bottom line, take it or leave it price so they can get home?
'18 Porsche Macan Turbo, '16 Audi TTS, Wife's '19 VW Tiguan SEL 4-Motion
a salesman told me that it's a "secret" that if you don't drive the car off the lot, the paperwork and contract is invalid and never really takes effect.
So the sale isn't final till you drive the wheels off the lot. Don't know if it's true or not, but it seems like it sometimes.
What about the people that crash their car on the way out the lot? LOL. I'm not a bad driver and would never do such a thing, but I"ve heard horror stories. If they were smart, they'd say "give me a new one" LOL.
'18 Porsche Macan Turbo, '16 Audi TTS, Wife's '19 VW Tiguan SEL 4-Motion
We must be twins, separated at birth, car-wise: I bought my first new car in '84, too. An "arrest-me red" Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo, a Colt by any other name... Fun, I actually enjoyed the turbo lag for the kick in the pants I got when the tach hit ~3k rpm. Hot hatches ruled, shame the US of A seems to think hatch is a four letter word. But, I'm again driving a hot hatch!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
The wife is driving an '11 BMW 535xi, we bought (well, she did) the tire/wheel insurance. After I checked with my shop, who recommened we do, they said they get a lot of bent/broken BMW, Saab and Audi rims. Given the typical New England winter/roads (and all the long term tests of the 535 all noted replacing wheel/tires!), seemed like an ok purchase. Luckily, no issues so far.
Daughter inherits the wife's former car, '02 Lexus RX300. Which was my "winter beater" this year. But, no winter... I'm semi-sort of-maybe considering my own winter beater for next winter. Lots of cars for under $7k...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Pace with grace. It sounds as good as it looks! Drives pretty well, too... Don't think it makes me look any better, though. A lot of compliments on the car from men, not so much from women. Curses, foiled again!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Just a note to my chronic carbuying friends who asked about helping on my illness. There's a site up - friendsofstevelasala.org that should explain all. Of course my E-mail is in my profile if needed.
2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
I can't make a decision on the ML. I've driven it a couple of times and like the solid feel of it. I I could guarantee with 90% or above certainty that it wouldn't cost an arm and a leg in repairs for at least a year or two, I'd be more comfortable. The VW Tiguan was a leap of faith after years of Hondas and Toyotas. But it's a leap of faith that was under warranty. This one isn't. The credit union wants $4,000 for a 3 year extended warranty.
Comments
Didn't tell my mother that I'd flunked out of college, until after she had co-signed on the loan.. :surprise:
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as of now, if it is still going strong, he plans to keep running the Acura until it gives him a reason not to.
Though we do have a bet as to who gets a BMW first!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
One of my college roommates was two years older and did exactly that, well before his first day of work. His salt of the earth farmer folks thought he was crazy to celebrate his job with a new car but you know kids. I pretty much did the same thing, but I *had* to have a way to get to my job.
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/2902512478.html
And for something that qualifies as practical, a much cheaper version of the NYCcarguy mobile:
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/ctd/2924353329.html
Or grab this, and pretend to be Qbrozen.
http://southjersey.craigslist.org/ctd/2878890746.html
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
and not listing the miles drives me nuts. And of course, I automatically assume that it has a bazillion.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I found one truck that was absolutely perfect, hit all the marks, BUT, OMG how does one destroy the body of a truck THAT bad in only 5 years (truck was an 07) and 77k miles??? It was way more damage than I could overlook.
They had a couple Ford trucks, one 08 F-250 and one 08 F-350, both with the 6.8L V10, clean trucks, but gas pigs. So, I'm not sure what I'll do. Guess play with the trailer a bit and go from there. As it sits we'd be running about 1000-1500 over tow capacity maybe less. The trailer was just too good of a deal to pass up.... :sick:
I am old - bought my first new car in late 1971.
- Ray
Don't ask what....
So... don't be embarrassed..
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Bought my first car in 73 - a 69 Volvo 142.
My first new car in 79 - an 80 VW Rabbit. Almost turned me in to a confirmed walker.....
I also had a 1969 Volvo - a 144S.
While in the military.
Rebuilt the sidedraft SU carbs.
Twice.
- Ray
Again, don't ask....
I'm 33 and actually bought a Buick, should I chime in?
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
You need a diesel to make that trip. The shame of it is, from reading your posts stuff is really high priced up there so selling it once you are down in lower 48 is going to be killer.
Keep the speeds low, change the tranny fluid and transfer case/rear diff fluid after the trip and hope for the best with the F150. I'm sure the engineers build in a little "fudge" factor for max towing capacity
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
Most likely, my job will officially become work from home soon (running out of seats in the building, and I don't really have to be on site it seems). Plus, i am only getting a car because my Daughter will be able to drive on he own and taking mine.
I realized though that outside of commuting, most of my driving is running her all over the place. Without those 2 activities, my car may sit for days at a time, and do 25 miles/week, especially if my wife has something nice and new that I like to drive!
Welcome to the world of telecommuting. I've been doing it for about 3 1/2 years.
It's amazing how your vehicle needs change once you start working from home and the kids can drive themselves. The ION, with only 66K on the clock, only gets miles put on it with the part-time pizza delivery I do and errands around town. It's hard to justify spending any amount of money on a car that gets driven like that, especially when you have the title to your current car in hand.
Best of luck!
When I was in college, I had the misfortune to total the car I was driving about 3 months before graduation. Wanted to buy a new car, but the folks talked me out of it as I didn't have a job lined up. So I took the insurance money and bought a beater to see me through those few months.
After graduation (and with a job offer in hand), I moved back to my hometown and bought a year old Honda Accord with 16K on it.
My first "new" car was an '88 Isuzu Trooper ... 120HP and an automatic. Lord, was that slow.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
An E39 isn't for you, I don't think. You really need to do your own maintenance to make it practical, IMHO. BUT, if you DO want one, I am really considering selling mine.
Yeah, I hate to do it... but I think the realization is setting in that I just don't have the time or money to maintain too many cars with needs. The Benz needs my attention. I think the 135 just broke its second wheel, not to mention I keep shopping for more modifications. I discovered not long ago the van is out of warranty, so I'll have to keep on top of that. It is currently in need of brakes all around. So, while the 540 hasn't presented any problems yet, it has 148k'ish miles, so how long can it hold out? I feel I might be better off selling it before it starts getting needy like all the other cars.
The MR2 is still on the block, too. Just have to find the time to get it "frontline ready." I took next Monday off hoping to get started on that.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Broke a wheel on the 135, or bent one?
The repair cost $150. 4 wheels from tirerack are $600.
So the M-sport made the car uglier? That's unfortunate. And, yeah, I agree, I don't think the M-sport was in 2000. I much prefer my body colored moldings anyway.
Here's a pic of that rear wheel. Those 2 hairline cracks are the problem.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I am just fine the the old school 55 series 16" on the base E46. Even the 2008 i was looking at was still a 17" (not sure the profile though), but RF.
On a new 3 series, even a base 328i, you can't get smaller than 18" wheels.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Do you know how that happened?
My BMW has 18s...
- Ray
Generally quite careful, but you never know...
The M5 had the same black trim (and no chrome around the windows). The M-sport package added the M5 suspension, body kit/trim, and shorter rear axle ratio to the 540. Essentially, it's an M5 with the 540 engine. The shorter axle ratio on the V8 automatic is pegged by the EPA at 15 city, 19 highway, or about the same as a new Escalade. :P
When I think of what I'll eventually replace my e39 with, I generally figure it will be a newer 5, but seems the new model has lost its edge a bit, particularly against Audi. At the car show over the weekend, I was really admiring the A6 and A7 - perhaps in a couple years used ones will be affordable.
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
http://www.businessweek.com/news/2012-03-21/volkswagen-mans-up-with-bug-leaving-- women-behind-in-sales
q - having visited NJ often when I traveled for business, I'm familiar with the (lack of) road quality there. Bummer that you've busted two wheels so far on the 135; do you plan on going the aftermarket route?
Wasn't it priced at $2300, from another thread IIRC?
After market would be even less.
battery is dead and she just can't unlock the doors?
Now *that* would be hilarious.
May need a new computer too though, and they run a grand, so that could explain some of the $4,200 bill.
Now, I had replaced the runflats with standard Continentals back in January. Whether the cracks happened before or after that is anyone's guess. They could have happened with the PO and I wouldn't have known. I do remember that one back wheel was grossly overinflated when I first brought it home, so it is quite possible it was being hidden from me. The leak was VERY VERY slow at first and just progressed with time until it finally got to the point that it deflated on my 35-mile commute home one day. That's when I took it off and discovered the problem.
The front one is just a guess at this time. I hit an invisible hole or lip in the road about 1.5 weeks ago with the right-front tire. It made me cringe, and I started watching the TPMS fanatically. Sure enough, it lit up this morning for that tire. UGH! I'll keep an eye on the pressure today and if it drops at all, I'll jack it up and take a look.
I have a double track day with BMWCCA coming up 4/16-4/17, so I can't waste any time sorting this out.
I do believe Lemmer is about right that C&D had to replace 2 and repair 2. It was quite a pricey endeavor. I was offered wheel/tire insurance by the selling dealer, but I turned it down obviously. Since I didn't plan on keeping the RFTs, I figured it didn't matter. And, really, a full set of aftermarket wheels is cheaper than the insurance anyway.
I'm considering these 2 options at the moment. They are $148 and $149 each, respectively. What do y'all think? My car is black sapphire, for those who don't remember.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If a car can't handle some track time once or twice a year, then it isn't worth much more than a penny.
I don't get why people would think track time is hard on a car. It isn't, if the car has any quality whatsoever. The only thing it is hard on are WEAR items, like brake pads, rotors, and tires.
Now if your driving around a piece of junk, yeah, driving it might kill it!
I was thinking a 2003 Accord Coupe V6 6-Speed manual souped up and modified a bit would make a fun track car. I saw in the new brochures they offer a High Performance strut and spring suspension kit, but the new one's are too big and nose heavy.
I worked on commission for a short while in life insurance sales. I hated it.
Having said that... if I knew a 9 o'clock appointment would be buying, I'd gladly work overtime happily! The extra half hour to hour is more than worth a sale, don't you think?
It sounds like going in at 8:45 might be the best time then, as the salespeaple, manager, and FI person will cut through all the bullcrap and just offer a bottom line, take it or leave it price so they can get home?
I've always liked those alan bolt add-ons for some reason.
here is one on Ebay. I'd rather it didn't have so much polished aluminum, but they are only $484 for the set of 4 and have BMW emblems.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
So the sale isn't final till you drive the wheels off the lot. Don't know if it's true or not, but it seems like it sometimes.
What about the people that crash their car on the way out the lot? LOL. I'm not a bad driver and would never do such a thing, but I"ve heard horror stories. If they were smart, they'd say "give me a new one" LOL.
First new car was in 1969. I was just a pup.
An Opel Rallye! Eliminated some of the CA smog stuff and took it to Lion's Drag Strip (anybody remember?)
I remember it did the quarter mile in 15.94 at something like 90 MPH.
I didn't keep that car long. I should have just bought a new VW beetle at the time.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
The wife is driving an '11 BMW 535xi, we bought (well, she did) the tire/wheel insurance. After I checked with my shop, who recommened we do, they said they get a lot of bent/broken BMW, Saab and Audi rims. Given the typical New England winter/roads (and all the long term tests of the 535 all noted replacing wheel/tires!), seemed like an ok purchase. Luckily, no issues so far.
Daughter inherits the wife's former car, '02 Lexus RX300. Which was my "winter beater" this year. But, no winter... I'm semi-sort of-maybe considering my own winter beater for next winter. Lots of cars for under $7k...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I've still got two hatches in the fleet, but only one is even borderline "hot"...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive