I'm don't know much about BMW as a whole as I'm not a fan. Most of my knowledge is from you guys here. I've heard many members mention the cooling system problems, I guess every manufacturer has something they can't do right.
The one thing you said and I certainly agree on is the "overselling" of services.
I think Sears tries to sell an alignment with every oil change. Chances are most cars are at least a little out of line, so what the heck.
I was there a few weeks ago picking up a new battery and while I was having the old one tested, the service writer went 2 for 3 trying to sell the alignment. Not bad!
Actually, "technology" is exactly the problem with the cooling systems (kind of). In an effort to save weight (and maybe cost?), the components are all made of plastic! BMW isn't the only one using plastic in the wrong places, though. Offhand, I know Nissan/Infiniti uses plastic intake manifolds. :sick:
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
So I think being bored at work contributes greatly to my CCBA.
Here are a couple of gas sipping options I found today. HCH Plain ole EX
All of the recent maintenance on the '02 makes it appealing, but of course the better mileage on the hybrid is a big selling point. I think either would be a good choice. My guess is the hybrid seller won't back off that internet price, while the private seller would probably take $5k, I'm sure. That $1500 would pay for alot of gas in that car.
I'd rather have something more out of the ordinary than a Civic, but Proteges/Sentra can't touch the gas mileage of the Civic/Corolla. Even a newer Versa is quite a bit lower.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Here you go Anony. This is the one that I really want (though I haven't seen the color in person). All loaded up, low miles. Heck, the BtoB warranty doesn't even run out until this November (then 2 more years CPO).
Just not in my budget anytime soon!
It is an AT. If you want this with a stick, good Will Hunting! And call the Pope for a blessing if you want a stick/navi/wagon.
And for something different, a stripper (someone ordered ala carte instead of getting premium and climate. I would actually consider this about perfect if they hadn't gone with the 17" wheels). Other than that, everything I need, and nothing more. Not a bad price for a lowish mile 2009.
I was shocked to see the price for a 2002 with that many miles, but after reading the description (and assuming he isn't hiding something!) it might just be worth it. if the engine is strong, just about everything else that you might need to worry about has been done.
heck, for the right price, i would buy it right now and hang onto it until I needed it.
But this is what I ultimately may get for my minimal mileage allotment. The 123K wouldn't be an issue (after all, i did buy my (son's) Acura TL with 145K on the clock 3.5 years ago).
I like that hybrid, with the 5-speed manual. Not too many hybrids these days that you can still get a stick - I suppose the CVT supposedly maximizes the MPG, but at least you can wring the most out of the powerplant with the stick. Plus they hybrid is the face-lifted version of that gen Civic, which I would prefer.
How much difference is there in MPG between the hybrid and the ex?
I really like that 2009. Black looks sharp. I would probably try to work out a swap for the 16" wheels off another car (with appropriate $ credit). But that car had an inservice date of 5/30/2009, so still in factory base warranty for another 14 months. Should be as close to new as you are going to get.
Ordered with just the key options (audio stuff like bluetooth and ipod/USB, and heated/power seats). Seems the moonroof comes standard (the description says it has one in standard features, but I really can't tell in the pictures). if it does have one, the only thing missing really is built in XM radio.
Yeah, when I was looking for my 540, there was someone trolling the BMW classifieds wanting to buy an E39 540i wagon with a stick shift and the sport package. I wonder how many of those they imported? They're probably as rare as hen's teeth.
Very funny! That yellow doll house was actually the previous home owners' daughter's. When we bought the house in July 2010, she was going into her senior year in HS. I figured they were just going to leave it. She (the daughter) got kinda bent about it and I had to have my lawyer put in the contract. When we met her at the closing, my wife and I even made it a point to thank the daughter for the "little house" and not to worry that our kids LOVED it and would get years and years of enjoyment from it. She kinda gave us the cold shoulder about it.
Thanks fezo! I love it even more than you love your Solara!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I think it'd be hard to find a 3 with 16" wheels after a certain year. I think at a certain point (probably the '09 refresh), 17's were pretty much standard.
But shouldn't be hard at all to find a set of 16" stock BMW wheels off craigslist, as there are many owners who upgraded.
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Yeah, when I was looking for my 540, there was someone trolling the BMW classifieds wanting to buy an E39 540i wagon with a stick shift and the sport package. I wonder how many of those they imported? They're probably as rare as hen's teeth.
I think all the V-8 wagons were automatic... Only the six cylinder wagons came in stick...
Are you kidding me? BMW is famous for weak cooling systems. Maybe the newest ones have that licked. Not sure.
It depends on several things, including the engine and the series. One sure-fire way to cause an early cooling system failure is to use something other than BMW's own coolant. The M42/M44 engines found in the E30 and E36 318is rarely have major problems prior to 190K miles. In the case of my 131K mile 1995 ti all I've done to the cooling system is replace the thermostat and a heater coolant hose coupling. In contrast, my wife's 2004 X3 has required no cooling system repairs in over 130K miles. My 1997 528i was a bit more problematic, requiring a couple of thermostats(warranty), a water pump at 60K(warranty) and a radiator after 100K miles.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Personally, I believe OEM to be substandard in many cases when it comes to maintenance items.
With BMW it depends. For example, there are aftermarket rear shock mounts that are better and worse than the OEM M3 mounts(which are the smart choice for OEM replacement across the E36/E46 lines). An aftermarket part has to be demonstrably superior for me to consider using it on any of my cars- Bilstein or Koni struts/shocks for example.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Actually, "technology" is exactly the problem with the cooling systems (kind of). In an effort to save weight (and maybe cost?), the components are all made of plastic! BMW isn't the only one using plastic in the wrong places, though. Offhand, I know Nissan/Infiniti uses plastic intake manifolds.
BMW started using plastic in cooling systems back in the early 1970s, when the E3 sedans and E9 coupes got plastic expansion tanks. The 1980s saw BMW start using aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks, and most all manufacturers have followed suit, with varying degrees of success(the aluminum/plastic radiator on my 1999 Jeep began leaking at 3 years and 56K miles). Several interrelated factors tend to exacerbate the problems in BMW systems, the first being the use of non-BMW coolant and/or failing to change the coolant on a regular basis. I also believe that BMW's headlong rush to make a majority of their vehicle systems recyclable has resulted in the use of plastics that are more prone to failure. Fintail can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Mercedes has had problems with wiring harnesses which boasted easily recyclable insulation. As for plastic intake manifolds, BMW introduced them on the M50 I6 back in 1991 with no ill effects.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Early 90s MB are known to have wiring harness issues - especially W140 S-class, but now and then a W124 E-class will be iffy too. Dumb idea to use biodegradable materials to be "environmentally friendly" Sometime later in the decade this problem was solved, very poor planning.
Not that I replace them very often, but the one part I'd prefer to go OEM with is shocks or struts. Most everything else (esp. something like Monroe) seems like they are one size fits all.
Some of the eco-wiring has been a problem because critters like to chew on it.
Actually, the E39 M5 has fewer cooling system issues than the E39 540i. There is one 2000 M5 on M5Board.com with over 260,000 miles on it. The water pump has been replaced once and the thermostat twice- everything else in the cooling system is original. Water pumps and t-stats are about it.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Maybe it's the 540 I am thinking of...I swear I remember something about M5 cooling system issues, maybe plastic radiators or similar. Could have been user error.
Maybe it's the 540 I am thinking of...I swear I remember something about M5 cooling system issues, maybe plastic radiators or similar. Could have been user error.
The 540is tend to snap off the upper radiator hose fitting. Whether it's due to age, engine movement, upper hose design(not flexible enough) is anybody's guess.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I drained green coolant out of my 540 when I replaced most of the cooling system. I used the blue BMW stuff to replace it. I guess I should do another drain and fill, but it's nearly impossible to completely flush a cooling system.
I can't see why BMW's should have such fussy cooling systems? I mean, a radiator is a radiator, hoses are hoses and coolant is coolant.
That was true 40 years ago, but not anymore. From my friend Mike Miller's Tech Column in the 12/06 issue of Bimmer magazine:
"BMWs are incredibly sensitive to operating fluids, including coolant. I've always felt this is due to the metallurgy used in the engine construction, but there is no way to know for sure. On neglected cars, aluminum oxidation builds up in various places within the engine, including on older models, between coolant hoses and aluminum fittings. That is the most obvious manifestation of aluminum oxidation. It causes the worst problems inside the sometimes tiny coolant passages of the cylinder head, where it can act like hardening of the arteries, restricting or even cutting off the supply of coolant to various parts of the cylinder head. This sometimes presents itself as phantom overheating with no known cause, though more often than not the cylinder head gasket blows before that.
I learned long ago that using phosphate free Original BMW antifreeze mixed 50-50 with distilled water and changing it every 2 years -or even four years on hotter running OBD-II models- essentially eliminates aluminum oxidation. The cars I maintain don't blow head gaskets or have chronic overheating problems."
And from a Pelican Parts tech article:
"BMW has issued a 1991 technical bulletin, 17 01 88(1743), which details problems with what is known as silicate gel precipitation in engines. This is the 'green goo' (yes, it actually says that in the BMW Tech bulletin - gotta love those German translators) that results as a consequence of an antifreeze over-concentration in the coolant, combined with hard water, and the phospates commonly used in many antifreezes. BMW factory antifreeze has been formulated to prevent this problem of silicate drop-out without any coolant performance loss. This antifreeze contains no nitrites and no phosphates."
For what it's worth, Honda has similar concerns and recommends their own coolant which is likewise designed to prevent silicate drop-out. Again, whats the big deal? Just buy the BMW coolant. I use Mazda coolant in my Mazda and I'd use Honda coolant if I owned a Honda.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
So in essence, like I hinted on earlier a lot of the problems can be avoided by proper maintenance. Change the fluid often and use BMW branded coolant. I'm no mechanic, but if I owned a BMW I think there has been enough said to justify it.
Having said all that.... this is CCBA no one should be keeping anything long enough to worry about changing coolant.... :P :P
You quoted from 'Mike Miller's' statement. I feel he covered his statement right up front when he said 'On neglected cars'.
This is about the same as the 'problems' with GM Dexcool coolant. GM agrees that if a cooling system has a leak and the Dexcool is allowed to run low in the block, there can problems, more so in certain engines. Also if 'contamination' enters the system.
So, if you 'neglect' your autos cooling system you may have problems.
Otherwise, I would think any major brand of extended life antifreeze/coolant would work in any car.
But with this opinion, I use Honda coolant when I changed my Ridgeline's. Because Honda makes such a big deal about using their products in the owners manual, and I have an extended Honda warranty on the truck. And do not want to give Honda an opening to deny a warranty service if ever needed.
Honda makes an even bigger 'deal' about using their auto tranny fluid. Dexron can be used in an 'emergency', but must be flushed out (tranny filled, run, and drained several times) and Honda fluid used as soon as possible. And, in my reading on Honda forums, several people have posted about putting Dexron in a Honda and then having 'bad' shifts. Which was corrected if the tranny was flushed and Honda fluid installed.
I can understand that certain components in an auto tranny could be designed to work best with certain additives placed in their fluids.
And I've long wondered if Honda (and BMW) ever list 'Specifications' for their fluids? GM does, and notes that any fluid that meets these specifications is approved for use in their vehicles.
Some places, mostly "chains" tend to hire secondary help and may be overselling questionalble services but for the most part the Independent shops and dealers are above board in their dealings.
A comment like yours is a slap int he face and an insult to the 95% of technicians and shops that work very hard for not a lot of money! '
Yes, but you managed ONE repair facility, you can't speak as to the other 99.9%.
Now I've ran into two out of three shops lately that were blatant thieves. They simply go out of business and I"m sure take their tools and lies with them to another area to "re-open" under another name to scam more people.
The last mechanic I had I thought was honest and good. Now he's gone AWOL and won't return calls or emails. He owes me a high flow CAT.Converter install (previously paid for with my custom exhaust system) and a new engine/air intake cover he accidently cracked at the last service visit....... HIs work was competent, and priced fairly, he just must be on drugs or somethings to decide to screw me over for that little and lose me as a customer for life (or going bankrupt like the last shop).
I've had experience with 4 different body shops. If I was a teacher, I'd give grades as follows: one B+, one C-, one D-, one F+. Basically, one was good, one was barely mediocre, and two were unacceptable. 3 of those were "recommended" by the insurance company.
What about the local shop I visited for a quote (have no other experience with them) and they quote me MULTI-ATF FLUID for my DSG transmission which requires OIL, not fluid.....
Needless to say, I didn't go there for a DSG maintenance. I know the A3 isn't as common as an Accord, but it's no Rolls Royce either!
'18 Porsche Macan Turbo, '16 Audi TTS, Wife's '19 VW Tiguan SEL 4-Motion
Ah, but Monroe is in fact OEM on a wide range of vehicles. You just don't know it because the car manufacturer buys them and puts their own name on it and sells it to you with an additional markup.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm with you for the most part. When it comes to bigger items like brakes and suspension for instance, I always use replacement time as a chance to upgrade. However, for some maintenance components, there is no upgrade nor is there a reason to pay dealership prices. For example, I have no problem using Gates belts. In many cases, it is OE anyway, but even if not, I have no reason to doubt their quality.
You didn't comment on the zero pressure coolant. What do you think of it?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Monroe is in fact OEM on a wide range of vehicles.
They may be an OEM supplier but the manufacturer's engineers are spec'ing the shocks to a particular vehicle.
I bookmarked this post by IdahoDoug long ago. Note the part where he says that some manufacturers spec different shocks for the same model based upon the vehicle's options. He's said elsewhere that "aftermarket shocks are simply a generic damping - NOT specific to any vehicle."
Not sure why I'm responding to you...BUT..I practically grew up in a shop and in my 20 years in the tool business, I was in, literally thousands of shops. I heard all of the stories and I watched the work being done.
With your vast knowledge and suspecion that the "vast majority" of shops are dishonest, you should probably spend 50,000 for a nice set of tools and go to a quality Vo-Tech college so that you are able to do all of your work yourself.
With your attitude, I doubt there are many shops that would want you as a customer.
You have no idea how dedicated most of these guys are and how hard they work for what can be very little money. The shops are scrambling to find good techs as they continue to leave the business for greener pastures.
You didn't comment on the zero pressure coolant. What do you think of it?
Are you referring to Evans NPG+? I know that some folks on the M5Board.com and Bimmerfest forums are using it. And -with one exception- I haven't heard anything bad about it. Herewith the one exception; a quote from Don Eilenberger(a well-known Bimmer and Beemer guru- especially on several E39 and E46 M3 boards/lists):
Evans NPG is nothing but 100% propylene-glycol http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol sold at a silly price point. You can buy the same chemical without the pretty coloring from any chemical supply house for about $6/gallon. It's used as an additive in all sorts of things mostly because it's non-toxic and prevents freezing.
As far as a cooling system running colder - not gonna happen unless your thermostat has gone bad. The thermostat regulates the coolant temperature, not the coolant. You can run lower pressure because at 100% concentration it has a high boiling point - but the cooling system WILL be less efficient. Also - at 100% concentration is has a lower heat capacity than standard ethylene-glycol (normal antifreeze) so that also lower the efficiency of your cooling system (making it MORE likely to overheat.)
Don't drink the coolaid. Just say no to evans NPG... it's snake oil slickly sold. It will work, but not as well as a standard coolant/water mix.
you should probably spend 50,000 for a nice set of tools and go to a quality Vo-Tech college so that you are able to do all of your work yourself.
Not a terrible idea; though $50K is a big investment. Will that $50K get and include a lift for my home's garage?
Maybe I should become a auto mechanic/tech.... How long would it take to get ASE certified? Do shops hire people without tools and let you borrow/rent tools? Don't German cars require different tools than American/Japanese?
'18 Porsche Macan Turbo, '16 Audi TTS, Wife's '19 VW Tiguan SEL 4-Motion
I used to ask my wife the same thing....why are women so blasted sensitive?
The similarities are amazing...
Then I learned, and now...."yes honey"...."certainly dear"....
Speaking of BMWs, anyone already move from a 2011 or current model to the new 2012 sedan? I have a 2011 335x drive sedan and I have the itch for something new...
SOME maybe, but I'd bet most are just buying off-the-shelf stuff.
As for that post, I can't say I completely agree. Manufacturers are all about compromises. They have to satisfy the largest population they can. Can you really agree that Lexus puts the best handling setup they can on their cars? Of course not. They are catering to a crowd. But if you want Lexus build quality, reliability, and luxury, but you want something that handles better, you'll have to go aftermarket. I'm not saying people are going to do that, its just one example. If you want to change the handling characteristics, you obviously aren't going with OEM.
When shopping online parts places, there are some that indicate which component is OE. Of course, we can't be 100% sure they know what they are talking about. I'd still take a decent aftermarket manufacturer over many dealer parts regardless.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
took my recently purchased S40 on it's first actual road trip (got my average MPH up from 20 to a whopping 24!) Drove real nice. I had the tires rebalanced and it made a huge difference at highway speeds. Not nice and smooth, and no more shaking. Went from outside Philly up to Long GuyLand, and the way up had a lot of traffic issues. And that trip has some long components. Came home today, and a nice open ride.
Overall, per the TC, got 30.5MPG, which isn't too bad. And it was nice and comfy driving on the highway. Very good stereo too.
So far, looking like it will be a fine ride for my Daughter when I turn it over at the end of the year.
latest issue of Car & Driver came today. They have a comparison test of family sedans. The Passat 2.5SE came in first. Largely due to the ride/handling combination. Not the fastest in the test (as in, easily the slowest) but still drove nice.
Speaking of slow, I was leafing through some old car rags I have stashed in the corner. A 1980 issue of C&D. Amazing how much slower cars were back then, and somehow we all survived driving. hardly anything broke the 10 sec 0-60 barrier it seemed.
Comments
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
The one thing you said and I certainly agree on is the "overselling" of services.
I think Sears tries to sell an alignment with every oil change. Chances are most cars are at least a little out of line, so what the heck.
I was there a few weeks ago picking up a new battery and while I was having the old one tested, the service writer went 2 for 3 trying to sell the alignment. Not bad!
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Here are a couple of gas sipping options I found today.
HCH
Plain ole EX
All of the recent maintenance on the '02 makes it appealing, but of course the better mileage on the hybrid is a big selling point. I think either would be a good choice. My guess is the hybrid seller won't back off that internet price, while the private seller would probably take $5k, I'm sure. That $1500 would pay for alot of gas in that car.
I'd rather have something more out of the ordinary than a Civic, but Proteges/Sentra can't touch the gas mileage of the Civic/Corolla. Even a newer Versa is quite a bit lower.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Just not in my budget anytime soon!
It is an AT. If you want this with a stick, good Will Hunting! And call the Pope for a blessing if you want a stick/navi/wagon.
http://www.bmwofturnersville.com/detail-2008-bmw-3_series-4dr_sdn_328i_rwd-used-- 7945272.html
And for something different, a stripper (someone ordered ala carte instead of getting premium and climate. I would actually consider this about perfect if they hadn't gone with the 17" wheels). Other than that, everything I need, and nothing more. Not a bad price for a lowish mile 2009.
http://www.bmwofturnersville.com/detail-2009-bmw-3_series-4dr_sdn_328i_rwd-used-- 7869751.html
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
heck, for the right price, i would buy it right now and hang onto it until I needed it.
But this is what I ultimately may get for my minimal mileage allotment. The 123K wouldn't be an issue (after all, i did buy my (son's) Acura TL with 145K on the clock 3.5 years ago).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
How much difference is there in MPG between the hybrid and the ex?
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Ordered with just the key options (audio stuff like bluetooth and ipod/USB, and heated/power seats). Seems the moonroof comes standard (the description says it has one in standard features, but I really can't tell in the pictures). if it does have one, the only thing missing really is built in XM radio.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Look how tiny your house is!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Thanks fezo! I love it even more than you love your Solara!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
But shouldn't be hard at all to find a set of 16" stock BMW wheels off craigslist, as there are many owners who upgraded.
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
328 wagon
A couple of months ago, before the X3 purchase, we may have gone for this.
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
I think all the V-8 wagons were automatic... Only the six cylinder wagons came in stick...
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It depends on several things, including the engine and the series. One sure-fire way to cause an early cooling system failure is to use something other than BMW's own coolant. The M42/M44 engines found in the E30 and E36 318is rarely have major problems prior to 190K miles. In the case of my 131K mile 1995 ti all I've done to the cooling system is replace the thermostat and a heater coolant hose coupling.
In contrast, my wife's 2004 X3 has required no cooling system repairs in over 130K miles.
My 1997 528i was a bit more problematic, requiring a couple of thermostats(warranty), a water pump at 60K(warranty) and a radiator after 100K miles.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
With BMW it depends. For example, there are aftermarket rear shock mounts that are better and worse than the OEM M3 mounts(which are the smart choice for OEM replacement across the E36/E46 lines). An aftermarket part has to be demonstrably superior for me to consider using it on any of my cars- Bilstein or Koni struts/shocks for example.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
BMW started using plastic in cooling systems back in the early 1970s, when the E3 sedans and E9 coupes got plastic expansion tanks. The 1980s saw BMW start using aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks, and most all manufacturers have followed suit, with varying degrees of success(the aluminum/plastic radiator on my 1999 Jeep began leaking at 3 years and 56K miles). Several interrelated factors tend to exacerbate the problems in BMW systems, the first being the use of non-BMW coolant and/or failing to change the coolant on a regular basis. I also believe that BMW's headlong rush to make a majority of their vehicle systems recyclable has resulted in the use of plastics that are more prone to failure. Fintail can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Mercedes has had problems with wiring harnesses which boasted easily recyclable insulation.
As for plastic intake manifolds, BMW introduced them on the M50 I6 back in 1991 with no ill effects.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Isn't the E39 M5 known for cooling system issues?
Not that I replace them very often, but the one part I'd prefer to go OEM with is shocks or struts. Most everything else (esp. something like Monroe) seems like they are one size fits all.
Some of the eco-wiring has been a problem because critters like to chew on it.
Actually, the E39 M5 has fewer cooling system issues than the E39 540i. There is one 2000 M5 on M5Board.com with over 260,000 miles on it. The water pump has been replaced once and the thermostat twice- everything else in the cooling system is original. Water pumps and t-stats are about it.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
The 540is tend to snap off the upper radiator hose fitting. Whether it's due to age, engine movement, upper hose design(not flexible enough) is anybody's guess.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Changing your coolant every two years I would think would yield the same results as any otehr car?
That was true 40 years ago, but not anymore. From my friend Mike Miller's Tech Column in the 12/06 issue of Bimmer magazine:
"BMWs are incredibly sensitive to operating fluids, including coolant. I've always felt this is due to the metallurgy used in the engine construction, but there is no way to know for sure. On neglected cars, aluminum oxidation builds up in various places within the engine, including on older models, between coolant hoses and aluminum fittings. That is the most obvious manifestation of aluminum oxidation. It causes the worst problems inside the sometimes tiny coolant passages of the cylinder head, where it can act like hardening of the arteries, restricting or even cutting off the supply of coolant to various parts of the cylinder head. This sometimes presents itself as phantom overheating with no known cause, though more often than not the cylinder head gasket blows before that.
I learned long ago that using phosphate free Original BMW antifreeze mixed 50-50 with distilled water and changing it every 2 years -or even four years on hotter running OBD-II models- essentially eliminates aluminum oxidation. The cars I maintain don't blow head gaskets or have chronic overheating problems."
And from a Pelican Parts tech article:
"BMW has issued a 1991 technical bulletin, 17 01 88(1743), which details problems with what is known as silicate gel precipitation in engines. This is the 'green goo' (yes, it actually says that in the BMW Tech bulletin - gotta love those German translators) that results as a consequence of an antifreeze over-concentration in the coolant, combined with hard water, and the phospates commonly used in many antifreezes. BMW factory antifreeze has been formulated to prevent this problem of silicate drop-out without any coolant performance loss. This antifreeze contains no nitrites and no phosphates."
For what it's worth, Honda has similar concerns and recommends their own coolant which is likewise designed to prevent silicate drop-out. Again, whats the big deal? Just buy the BMW coolant. I use Mazda coolant in my Mazda and I'd use Honda coolant if I owned a Honda.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Having said all that.... this is CCBA no one should be keeping anything long enough to worry about changing coolant.... :P :P
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
I just don't understand why any car has to be so blasted sensitive to everythng that gets installed in it. Coolant, gas caps, light bulbs. etc.
I'm surprised they don't have botique gas stations for European cars!
It's not a "big deal" Actually, I find a certain amount of humor in it.
This is about the same as the 'problems' with GM Dexcool coolant. GM agrees that if a cooling system has a leak and the Dexcool is allowed to run low in the block, there can problems, more so in certain engines. Also if 'contamination' enters the system.
So, if you 'neglect' your autos cooling system you may have problems.
Otherwise, I would think any major brand of extended life antifreeze/coolant would work in any car.
But with this opinion, I use Honda coolant when I changed my Ridgeline's. Because Honda makes such a big deal about using their products in the owners manual, and I have an extended Honda warranty on the truck. And do not want to give Honda an opening to deny a warranty service if ever needed.
Honda makes an even bigger 'deal' about using their auto tranny fluid. Dexron can be used in an 'emergency', but must be flushed out (tranny filled, run, and drained several times) and Honda fluid used as soon as possible. And, in my reading on Honda forums, several people have posted about putting Dexron in a Honda and then having 'bad' shifts. Which was corrected if the tranny was flushed and Honda fluid installed.
I can understand that certain components in an auto tranny could be designed to work best with certain additives placed in their fluids.
And I've long wondered if Honda (and BMW) ever list 'Specifications' for their fluids? GM does, and notes that any fluid that meets these specifications is approved for use in their vehicles.
Some places, mostly "chains" tend to hire secondary help and may be overselling questionalble services but for the most part the Independent shops and dealers are above board in their dealings.
A comment like yours is a slap int he face and an insult to the 95% of technicians and shops that work very hard for not a lot of money! '
Yes, but you managed ONE repair facility, you can't speak as to the other 99.9%.
Now I've ran into two out of three shops lately that were blatant thieves. They simply go out of business and I"m sure take their tools and lies with them to another area to "re-open" under another name to scam more people.
The last mechanic I had I thought was honest and good. Now he's gone AWOL and won't return calls or emails. He owes me a high flow CAT.Converter install (previously paid for with my custom exhaust system) and a new engine/air intake cover he accidently cracked at the last service visit....... HIs work was competent, and priced fairly, he just must be on drugs or somethings to decide to screw me over for that little and lose me as a customer for life (or going bankrupt like the last shop).
I've had experience with 4 different body shops. If I was a teacher, I'd give grades as follows: one B+, one C-, one D-, one F+. Basically, one was good, one was barely mediocre, and two were unacceptable. 3 of those were "recommended" by the insurance company.
What about the local shop I visited for a quote (have no other experience with them) and they quote me MULTI-ATF FLUID for my DSG transmission which requires OIL, not fluid.....
Needless to say, I didn't go there for a DSG maintenance. I know the A3 isn't as common as an Accord, but it's no Rolls Royce either!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You didn't comment on the zero pressure coolant. What do you think of it?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
They may be an OEM supplier but the manufacturer's engineers are spec'ing the shocks to a particular vehicle.
I bookmarked this post by IdahoDoug long ago. Note the part where he says that some manufacturers spec different shocks for the same model based upon the vehicle's options. He's said elsewhere that "aftermarket shocks are simply a generic damping - NOT specific to any vehicle."
Fun topic to bounce around.
With your vast knowledge and suspecion that the "vast majority" of shops are dishonest, you should probably spend 50,000 for a nice set of tools and go to a quality Vo-Tech college so that you are able to do all of your work yourself.
With your attitude, I doubt there are many shops that would want you as a customer.
You have no idea how dedicated most of these guys are and how hard they work for what can be very little money. The shops are scrambling to find good techs as they continue to leave the business for greener pastures.
Are you referring to Evans NPG+? I know that some folks on the M5Board.com and Bimmerfest forums are using it. And -with one exception- I haven't heard anything bad about it.
Herewith the one exception; a quote from Don Eilenberger(a well-known Bimmer and Beemer guru- especially on several E39 and E46 M3 boards/lists):
Evans NPG is nothing but 100% propylene-glycol http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol sold at a silly price point. You can buy the same chemical without the pretty coloring from any chemical supply house for about $6/gallon. It's used as an additive in all sorts of things mostly because it's non-toxic and prevents freezing.
As far as a cooling system running colder - not gonna happen unless your thermostat has gone bad. The thermostat regulates the coolant temperature, not the coolant. You can run lower pressure because at 100% concentration it has a high boiling point - but the cooling system WILL be less efficient. Also - at 100% concentration is has a lower heat capacity than standard ethylene-glycol (normal antifreeze) so that also lower the efficiency of your cooling system (making it MORE likely to overheat.)
Don't drink the coolaid. Just say no to evans NPG... it's snake oil slickly sold. It will work, but not as well as a standard coolant/water mix.
From their webpage:
http://www.evanscooling.com/html/tech1.htm
"Evans NPG Coolant is inhibited 100% propylene glycol."
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Not a terrible idea; though $50K is a big investment. Will that $50K get and include a lift for my home's garage?
Maybe I should become a auto mechanic/tech.... How long would it take to get ASE certified? Do shops hire people without tools and let you borrow/rent tools? Don't German cars require different tools than American/Japanese?
The similarities are amazing...
Then I learned, and now...."yes honey"...."certainly dear"....
Speaking of BMWs, anyone already move from a 2011 or current model to the new 2012 sedan? I have a 2011 335x drive sedan and I have the itch for something new...
I don't know from your next car, but you sure have found the right forum.
Welcome! -Mathias
And, yes, I've read about the efficiency issue. Seems to be a tossup between that or the high pressures with the standard mix. Damned if you do...
In any case, I'm figuring I'll probably just convert to all metal components when the time comes and run the bimmer coolant.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
As for that post, I can't say I completely agree. Manufacturers are all about compromises. They have to satisfy the largest population they can. Can you really agree that Lexus puts the best handling setup they can on their cars? Of course not. They are catering to a crowd. But if you want Lexus build quality, reliability, and luxury, but you want something that handles better, you'll have to go aftermarket. I'm not saying people are going to do that, its just one example. If you want to change the handling characteristics, you obviously aren't going with OEM.
When shopping online parts places, there are some that indicate which component is OE. Of course, we can't be 100% sure they know what they are talking about. I'd still take a decent aftermarket manufacturer over many dealer parts regardless.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Overall, per the TC, got 30.5MPG, which isn't too bad. And it was nice and comfy driving on the highway. Very good stereo too.
So far, looking like it will be a fine ride for my Daughter when I turn it over at the end of the year.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Speaking of slow, I was leafing through some old car rags I have stashed in the corner. A 1980 issue of C&D. Amazing how much slower cars were back then, and somehow we all survived driving. hardly anything broke the 10 sec 0-60 barrier it seemed.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.