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Comments
Are there known power steering problems with this car? I want to be prepared to leave the car at the dealer if needed for the first oil change (not sure of their loaner policy).
And others (though V6 owners) have noticed it too... So it would be interesting to know if your service manager can find something....
Hope the rear window antenneas of today are a vast improvement.
The shark fin can be used for normal radio reception.
Not at all. I believe I speak for the entire Edmunds community in specifically exempting you from protecting yourself from the effects of random irradiation. :P
Not an abberation at all. Many owners are finding zero issues with the car. I only have 1, which is minor and will be fixed as soon as I can find time to take it in.
If the new radio doesn't have an AUX input jack, maybe the aftermarket will make an adapter that plugs in wherever the XM module plugs into the new radio.
Just unplug the XM module (if you don't plan to subscribe to the service) and plug an auxiliary input adapter in its place.
Maybe some company will even make an iPod-specific adapter that will charge an iPod and allow you to skip tracks via the steering wheel controls.
However, it should be much easier to make adapters once the new AM/FM/XM radio comes out, so I don't see why it would not be sold by some aftermarket company that's already in the business of making similar adapters for other factory radios.
"Maybe" Hyundai will even add a factory installed AUX jack since they are going to the trouble or changing the radio already, but since that was not announced, it's probably not happening. If they included an input jack on the front of the new radio, then you wouldn't even need to get an aftermarket adapater.
http://www.autolinedetroit.tv/autoline/watch.php?stream=1026
http://www.autolinedetroit.tv/autoline/watch.php?stream=1026-extra
1) Driving alone on NJ Turnpike for over an hour at 60-65 mph while using A/C, GPS, and iPod, I averaged 30.3 mpg. I got more than the advertised EPA figure!
2) Driving from New Jersey to Mass. with 2 more passengers and a trunk loaded with luggage, I averaged 28.1 mpg for the whole trip.
For a large car with V6 engine, I think the above figures are very impressive. Also, the trip computer gas mileage readings tally well with how much gas I need to fill up the tank each time.
I wonder if Hyundai has done something to improve gas mileage on the 2007 Sonata models.
Well, for one thing, as of the 2006 model year, all Sonata engines have CVVT (continuously variable valve timing) for improved efficiency, as well as cold-air intake systems. The combined benefits improve power delivery (and fuel economy when driven sanely). The 2007 Sonata shares these features since they're essentially a carry-over model.
Hyundai's Brand Value Rises
Re-think everything.
I have seen this coming for some time. Along with Hyundai's improving reputation, this should help improve resale values.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
If you want to talk with others about your Sonata, drop by our Hyundai Sonata 2005 and earlier discussion - we'd love to have you!
Thanks for Internet; I got what I want in two weeks.
The dealer is a nice black young gentleman as well as a good seller, so maybe he has no any 2006 model left.
I have called many dealerships for 2 weeks, so far nobody can beat the price.
Well, it's a good beginning for my new life! :shades:
People had the 3,000 mile oil change interval ingrained in their brains for many years. This is only for the benefit of the petroleum industry and contributes not only to unnecessary waste, but is bad for the environment. With the high quality oils available today, without getting into the "which is best" argument, a vehicle can easily go over the 3,000 mark. I generally change my oil every 10,000-15,000 miles...usually once a year. My '06 Sonata GLS 4-cylinder has approximately 18,000 miles on it. I purchased it back in August 2005 and changed the oil May 2006 with about 15k on it. The lab test was excellent!
I use http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ once in a while to check the condition of my used motor oil to ensure its lubricating properties at my 10,000-15,000 mile change intervals and to see the wear of my engine. The reports have always been FANTASTIC. Personally, I use Mobil 1 5W-20 synthetic and a Purolator PureOne filter. The extra cost up front for them is made up during my extended drain intervals.
For an excellent resource which discusses anything oil related be sure to visit http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
My theory is, based on, among other, posts in this and another forum, that the suspension could be, if not the the full problem, then a contribution to my problems - in connection with one or more tyres that are not 100% perfect (have a dead spot/out-of-round/imbalanced).
Based on several observations, i think this replacement of the suspension-parts, can do something. Ideally replacement to shock-absorbers with more damping-force, but as far as i have investigated, no one produce 3. parts shock-absorbers yet.
Is there somebody out there who have heard of aftermarket shock absorbers for the 3.3 model...?
(The car has gone approx 28.000 km/17.3000 miles - and exactely the same symptoms as from when i bought the car - None of what has been done has changed/moved the problem/speedinterval where the problem occurs so far)
Guess I'm lucky, as the car runs as well today as the day I bought it in '95 and the only thing I've replaced was the battery.
Maybe I'm crazy, but I'm going to buy an '07 Sonata.
Hey, it's time for a change.
Back when Toyota and other manufacturers had problems with engine sludge developing they would only honor an engine warranty replacement if oil changes were done by the dealer or the owner had undisputable proof of each and every oil change. Because so many people had problems with the sludge I would imagine they did this as a cost saving manuever instead of just admitting the engine design was faulty...which they eventually did. Most people who change their own oil only have a store receipt to show they bought some oil and a filter. It does not prove when it was changed. Neither does a hand written notebook. If there was a problem Hyundai could argue that very same fact. The ONLY way to determine it is an oil related problem would be an oil analysis to examine the condition of the lubricant.
Perhaps not nearly as much as carmakers and oil blenders would have us believe if the car is garaged. I practice 3K mile oil change intervals with a Blackstone report every other oil change. For those who believe extended oil change intervals save them money and preserve the environment, two points: even the most expensive motor oil is cheaper than an engine overhaul, and used oil gets recycled, not dumped into landfills
Uh, reality check: 1> It's a violation of federal law to require dealer service to maintain warranty claim rights. 2> Toyota is quite liberal concerning their "sludgemonster" motors. All that's needed to qualify for an engine rebuild or replacement in affected cars (1995 - 2001) was proof of at least one oil and filter change per year. Receipts for service (dealer or independent shop) or materials, if owner done at home, were sufficient. The engine warranty was extended to 8-years, unlimited mileage.
After your warranty expires, do whatever you want. You can use the oil tests as a guideline. If your oil still tests fine at 7500 miles, do changes every 10K or whatever.
I got a great price on the car, I think I can afford to not trash it before it's time. I'm an average joe with an average income but I have more than one vehicle at home and until this car all of my vehicles got their oil changed with quality stuff every 3,500 or less. And it ain't breakin my bank! :confuse:
Synthetic base oil is composed of the same basic "building blocks" as conventional oil - carbon and hydrogen atoms. Only the specific arrangement of these atoms differs. There's no such thing as a fireproof hydrocarbon molecule. It's also an urban myth that synthetics are immune to sludge formation. What synthetics bring to the table are negligible double electrostatic bonds between atoms and ringed structures ("aromatics"), themselves often rife with double bonds. Double bonds are inherently unstable. A more stable molecular configuration will retard but not totally elliminate the formation of sludge. But, again, with heat, contamination, and loss of key additives over time, even the priciest synthetics (some European varieties specified for current BMW and Mercedes engines more than double the price of Mobil 1) can (and will) form varnish and sludge as oxidation breakdown byproducts.