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Comments
I've seen many similar posts over the years, from owners with their first car with ABS. Caution with suspected brake problems is always advisable, but I also don't like to unduly alarm people for something that could be normal operation.
A recent, personal example: I was driving a week ago (not in my Hyundai) right after a big snowstorm. Turned right from a (mostly) plowed road onto an unplowed road and then started a U-turn. The Brake and ABS lights started flashing. Oh, no! I thought. I was less than a block from my destination so I parked, did my errand, then later called the dealer (car is under warranty). I explained my problem and noted I really wanted it taken care of right away (this was a Saturday, but hey, it's the brakes!), and the service writer said they were full up until Monday. After I expressed dismay at that, she asked me to hold for a minute. When she returned, she said that they have had several calls just like mine that morning, and the "problem" was probably just snow packed into the wheels, causing the ABS sensor to go haywire. She said it should clear up as soon as the snow gets out of the wheels. Sure enough, after less than half a block the lights went out.
Dealer already replaced my Alternator, which anybody knowing a little bit about cars would assume to be the culprit -- but it still does it. Next step dealer claims is to replace the wires running from the battery with thicker wires. They claim it has been reported before with this model.
Anybody else having any similar experience?
I came from driving a '95 Camry that with 246K still got excellent gas mileage; I do realize I'm now in a V6 but this is crazy I could be driving what I really like/want (truck) at this kind of gas mileage.
I have reported this to Carmax were I bought it from and called my local Hyndai dealer to see what I an do and they are supposed to address this Monday.
What is everyone else seeing gas mileage wise with these cars?
van
I've read your email over a couple of times nice gas mileage......whats your secret do you do anything special?? I think the past maintenance on this car is an important factor and maybe it just didn't have all the maint. flushes and things it needed to run right, I think theres a lot of Maint things recommended by Hyundai that have never been done. Carmax where I bought it put a new air cleaner in it and want me to drive though 3 tanks of gas and then report back to them. They say my bra on the front (thats made for the car by Hyundai) is lowering gas mileage...BS, maybe 2 mpg but were off at least 6 MPG I'm still only getting today 21MPG unnaceptable.
My local Hyundai dealer says the bra should not make any difference and that they could run some DG fuel cleaner through it and a few other things that would definetly make it run like it should but it would cost $600+ so when this new air cleaner from Carmax doesn't do a whole lot, which it won't I'll be tellling them it needs to go to Hyundai.
What exaclty do you mean that your overall average from 0-15000 is right at 19mpg
Your Hyundai dealer is telling you to do a "BG fuel system" cleaning at $600. Just ask them to sell you a bottle of BG 44K fuel system cleaner (about $20 but worth it) and you'll be on your way. The BG additive is good stuff. Our service dept sells it and I use it once a year in my two cars. I've had the "fuel system" flush done on my Mustang (for other reasons) and did not notice much, if any difference.
It's all in: 1. the gas you use. 2. your foot on the pedal. 3. A good pathway for both the fuel and the air to get to the fuel injectors.
BTW don't take off your bra.....in public. :P
van
My '06 Sonata LX has just about 54.5k on it, so it compares nicely with yours. Up to about 20k, I was averaging 22.5 mpg overall. Since 20k on, I have averaged 23.5-25 mpg overall, with a high of 25.7 mpg. I do about 65% freeway driving.
Perhaps my observations and driving habits will be of some use to you:
1) I have a K&N airfilter in the car. The car breathed differently when I firt put it in.
2) I have always logged my miles at fuel fill-up's, and calculated mpg on my own. The mpg gauge in the car is not very precise, and needs to be reset now and then. Once my guague was "stuck" on 23.9 for over 3000 miles of driving, which is impossible.
Once reset, the guage displays 31-32 mpg at freeway speeds upto 79 mph.
3) Only about a year ago was it "discovered" by a shop that the car actually needs 5W-20, not the typical oil for which sales are run. This is even indicated on the oil cap - amazing that I or any other service station never noticed it. The 5W-20 seemed to help with the engine running more easily, and the result, slightly better mileage.
4) My tires have always been rotated at every oil change (between 3000-5000 mile intervals).
5) I usually go faster than the majority of traffic on the freeway, but I focus on driving smoothly, never herky jerky.
6) On a recent brake inspection, I was told that I have over 80% of the original pads left - yes, at 54.5K. I do use the manumatic quite a bit, and avoid riding the brakes as much as possible.
All of your tips sound great and will be utilizing them asap so thank you so much. They replaced my air cleaner/filter and now GM went up now averaging the same as you at 23.5-25 mpg overall, but I'm sorry that is not enough.
I often wished I would have considered another 4 cylinder but after crawling into the Sonota interior we couldnt'd go back to a Camry.
I am still working with Carmax to get them to further work on the gas mileage as they agreed. My local Hyundai dealership said the car "can" and "should" get at least 27-28 MPG on the highway no problem and to just keep pushing the issue.
I believe Carmax is next going to put in some fuel injection cleaner, although I recommended the (Hyundai advised) "DG" products but not sure what Carmax will use.
Signed,
still trying to get better MPG....
I cannot make any complaints about this car. It has been good to us, and we have not experienced any service or reliability issues.
So, here's my dilemma.....do I spend ~ $ 2,000 for the 100K service on this car, including new plugs, fan belt, and tires, or do I trade this baby in for a new one. We are hurting in this economy as everyone else, and I am torn as to which decision would be the most economical over the next 12 months. Is it realistic for me to think that I will get another 40 K out of this car after I make the $ 2K investment ? If the general consensus is "YES", then I will take the risk and do it.
Thanks for your comments !
If you haven't checked prices for the service at shops other than your Hyundai dealer, you might want to do that.
Also be sure to get the 100k service done BEFORE 100k, so if any powertrain issues are found they will be covered under warranty.
Regarding the 100K service, a friend owns an '06 Sedona, and the dealer quoted her $1200 for the 60K service. Took the van to Express Tire, and got the job done for less than $200, albeit sans the timing belt change. However, the shop told her that the timing belt replacement did not even come up in the computer, even after checking a few times.
I would change the 6 plugs myself, but the back three are covered with an agglomeration of God knows what, and I did not want to create more problems for myself by trying to remove this, and then screwing up the engine.
If you think I will get 130 K out of the 3.3L, then I will make the investment, and hope for the best. Thank you !!
I TOOK IT RIGHT TO THE DEALER- IT WAS THE INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET- THERE WAS A CRACK OR SOMETHING IN OR ON IT..BETTER GET THAT CHECKED OUT
The dealer told me they could find nothing wrong with the left side but i needed a ball joint on the right side. they replaced the ball joint under warranty and sent me on my way... I still have the noise in the left front.. Has anyone had anything like this??? :confuse:
Also, the best mechanics power flush about 1 1/5-2x the amount of fluid the system holds, in order to insure that all liquid has been fully replaced. And as mentioned, you need to drain the torque converter.
Open, drain, flush, close (late in the flush, when you know you have the system refilled with a continuous stream), fill.
Very different, and much more effective, than drop pan, pour out old tranny fluid, reattach pan, and refill. That would actually scare me in a modern transmission, as it could leave the possibility of air bubbles in the system.
You may want to register on the Hyundai site and download a user's manual.
Now, if someone can tell me the purpose of the blinking red light on top of the dash, I'll be all set!
Registering is a good idea. I'll do that.
Thanks for your help.
Which blinking red light do you mean?
I'm 99.9% sure that it is a way to signal that the theft deterrent is armed. Even if the doors aren't armed (i.e. the car honks when the doors ar opened), I think that the light itself is a deterrent.
That's my guess.
As for the red light, it is on top of the dash and blinks whenever the key is out of the ignition. It blinks rapidly when I hit the lock button on my key fob. I agree that it probably just serves as a deterrent to make thieves think the car alarm is armed whether it is or not. However, I could not find any mention of it in the manual.
At 57,000 miles, there are some components such as brakes, tires, and battery that could be nearing the end of their useful lives. Also the car will be due soon for a major servicing, at 60k miles.
Since it's a one-owner, are service records available? If not, that is a red flag. If you are buying from a dealer, ask if you can talk with the first owner. You should try to find out if any repairs have been made already, e.g. new brakes and tires, and if transmission fluid has ever been replaced and if regular oil changes were done.
Be sure to get a Carfax report (from seller if possible, so they pay for it), which can spot things like major accidents. But it's not foolproof.
Be sure to drive the car over all kinds of road surfaces, including rough roads, railroad tracks, speed bumps etc. And listen closely for unusual suspension noise, e.g. a "clank" instead of just a normal noise of the shocks compressing. Of course, check the operation of ALL features.
The good news is, since you are the 2nd owner, you would have at least 3,000 miles of bumper-to-bumper warranty left, in case a problem pops up right away.