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Comments
I have 800 miles on my I4 and I am already getting 29mpg driving at 30-55mph (suburb driving.)
IMO i4 has plenty of power, unless one drives it fully loaded most of the time.
If you look at V6 mpg you will find a wide range of #s reported ... from 16mpg to 26mpg.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef9e4c5
However the GLS V6 has some nice extra features for so little extra money!
(except for the new 5-speed shiftronic transmission which has some weird behavior when driving in a hilly terrain: tranny keeps downshifting back and forth -between 4th and 5th gears- (tranny fishing!)
This is cold weather driving, AC on for defrost.
I guess you could say we're just a little spoiled... For myself, and this is purely subjective, you understand, I feel the I4 is just a tad small. It needs a little more power, and a little less buzziness. But keep in mind that the 2.4 IS plenty big enough to get you a speeding ticket out on I-75; the little bugger will cruise at 85 no sweat!
Also, you may find that you like the over-all car so much the the smaller engine just doesn't matter that much. I hope you like yours a lot. (PS: Our '02 Sonata LX had the 2.7 V6. It went like stink down the highway...)
I had the opportunity to rent the 3.3L and it reminded me of my Audi 5000 days in terms of handling... very surefooted on a variety of roads (roundtrip from Ohio to Michigan this past weekend).
The power on this car is great... punch it at 80 mph and you're gone... Interior styling is kinda funky, but hey... it's a Hyundai... Can't beat the warranty or the price.
For me, it's money well spent for the silence and extra power.
Steel Gray LX with package 3 (power moonroof and 6cd changer with subwoofer)!
I wanted to hear feedback. The only feedback I got was from Tenpin288. Backy what do you think? Anyone else? If Cochran's won't give me a better price, should I stay with the $21,437.10 out the door with 5.69% financing (after applicable rebates - financing, LX rebate, and college graduate; taxes, title transfer, etc.)? Or should I wait?? Unless Cochran promises me something lower, I know that I will never get Hallman's Hyundai here in Erie to go for a lower price. We discussed the price for over an hour. What does everyone think? Sorry, this is a huge decision for me to make - hefty investment anyway. I just want to make the RIGHT one. Thanks for all of your thoughts in advance.
docjosh
MSRP (specify which package/options, include destination)
- dealer discount
- rebates (itemize)
+ fees (itemize)
+ license
+ tax
= out the door price
Also, this is not the best place for this thread. A better place (maybe you'd get more input there) is the Sonata Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion.
"...this is a huge decision for me to make - hefty investment anyway..."
If money is the problem; then why not go for the GLS V6 which is pretty much the same minus the luxury items; for 2K less!
It goes something like this: MSRP - $24,895.00
Amount I demanded based on 2 quotes - $2395= $22,500.00
Rebates - $2400= $20,100.00
Taxes, Title, Fees, etc (estimate because
I don't have it in front of me) + ~$1476= $21,576.00
Their final offer after haggling - $139= $21,437.10
So there you have it... this is how I arrive at the "OUT THE DOOR" price of $21,437.10. Give me your feedback.
docjosh
John
p.s. IMHO, I think OTD prices are meaningless unless it is itemized. A $19,000 OTD price might sound great, but what if it included a $5000 trade in?
labor 10.03
filter 12.27
gasket? .65
oil 7.75
tax 2.15
total 32.85
It goes something like this: MSRP - $24,895.00
Amount I demanded based on 2 quotes - $2395= $22,500.00
Rebates - $2400= $20,100.00
Taxes, Title, Fees, etc (estimate because
I don't have it in front of me) + ~$1476= $21,576.00
Their final offer after haggling - $139= $21,437.10
So there you have it... this is how I arrive at the "OUT THE DOOR" price of $21,437.10. Give me your feedback. "
That's a very good price with only $2400 in rebates. Buy the car. You will not regret it.
You don't get the best price by asking the dealer what he'll sell it for. You have to go in, spend some time there and then MAKE THE DANG OFFER !
You decide what you'd like to pay, and offer that amount.
I DID! I sat there over two hours quarrelling about the price. They wouldn't take my offers. The store manager finally came out and sat down in front of me and slid that "out the door" figure in front of me and said "we appreciate your offers, but we cannot go any lower than this figure right here - $21,437.10." Then he said because his brother in law is their detailer, that he would put a stripe on either sides of the car free of charge. But this is it.
They said that Hallman (who owns that one and four other dealerships here in Erie, PA) would not allow them to sell it any lower. That's why I contacted Cochran's in Monroeville. I'm in the process of talking to them today.
docjosh
-brian
So many other people though don't actually make an offer but will ask for "dealer quotes" and compare those quotes as if that is the price they'd end up paying for the car.
I was trying to point out that a dealer’s offer to sell is often just a wish by him that you'll pay that amount. It is rarely the lowest price he'd take for the car.
If you are willing to spend the time and effort, and not let them bluff you badly, you will no doubt end up with a really good deal.
Sounds like you are on your way to that. Maybe you are already there, $21,437.10.
Two hours seems too long to discuss (quarrel over?) prices though. Unless you have unlimited time on your hands (and who does?), maybe that last hour you could have been driving over to another dealership to offer $21,000 or less. Or having a nice lunch. Sounds like they might have thought they had you over a barrel and could stall you, trying to wear you out and pay their price.
Also, if it felt to you like quarreling, they probably felt under attack. Might not be the best tactic. Sometimes they'll make a deal with a nice guy when they might refuse the same offer from a combatant. Flies and honey, you know?
But, maybe that is the very best price you can get anywhere. I dunno.
I might be spoiled out here in the 5th largest city in the nation. There are at least 7 Hyundai dealers within 50 miles of each other. Competition is fierce.
Good hunting.
"Okay, you win, we will sell the car for XXXX" Since he hasn't followed up, I would guess you have his lowest price.
I think it is a good deal. If it were me, I would be satisfied with it. Someone else will come on here bragging about a deal that is a little less, or talking about demanding a better deal, but it's clear this is as low as this dealer will go. So you need to decide whether to take it or try to find a dealer who will go a little less. Is it worth your time and effort, and what are the odds of finding a significantly better deal? You'll have to answer those questions yourself.
Arguably, the four cylinder engine could better use the 5-sp. automatic to keep it situated in the engine's maximum torque range over a broader vehicle speed range. Don't be surprised to see the 5-sp. to make its way into 2.4L I4 Sonatas at some point - perhaps as a running change within the coming year.
John
No problem. The GLS V6 drives almost as well as
my all wheel drive CRV. I've even tried to make
it swerve or skid, and the ABS and ESC, with traction control won't let it do either. I'd have to say it is about the best handling non-4 whell drive car I've ever had in the snow and ice. In Erie, plenty of snow to take a test drive.
FWIW, I had the dealer reprogram the door locks so all the doors lock automatically, when the car gets up to about 5mph. However, the doors don't unlock automatically when you stop and park the car. My previous car did unlock automatically when I parked. I frequently park and go to get something out of the back seat area, but now find the doors locked. I now find it a nuissance to unlock the back doors. I may have the dealer reprogram the auto door locks back to what it was.
John
Now that is strange. We have about 8 inches on the ground where I am in Iowa now (will be back in Arizona soon) and I just took my V6 LS out to run some errands and thought it was horrible in the wet stuff. There is so much torque to the front wheels that I spin them unintentionally when it is dry. The car is so squirrelly that I returned it to the garage and got in my AWD Highlander. I assume you have Michelin tires but I have 17 inch wheels. I wonder if that makes a difference?
I'm coming from an AWD CR-V, AWD Grand Caravan, and AWD Subaru Legacy sedan. The Legacy was tops in snow performance, hands down, but the Sonata performed as well as my Grand Caravan and better than the CR-V.
I'm sure the heavier V6 sitting on top of the drive wheels helped, as did the easy modulation with the accelerator. What surprised me was how well it gripped through corners. It tracked very nicely without any plowing. The transmission was also a big help since I could use gearing instead of brakes to control speed. Both VSC and ESC kicked in a couple of times when I "explored" it's limits, and they worked flawlessly.
Yeah I will get the dealer who wants to know what other dealers are offering, I just tell them I don't play that game if they give me the best price then I'll get it.
Yeah most likely I could haggle one down a few hundred dollars but is it really worth spending a couple of hours to save 2 or 3 bucks a month on a car payment?
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Newbie here. Picked up my black 2006 GLS V6 last week. Great car. Everything I had hoped for and more.
Two questions if anybody can help. One, the seatbelt alarms are driving me crazy. The chimes ring whenever the car is on and the belt is not done up. Even in park, which is silly. I left the car running for two minutes with someone in the passenger seat, and they said the seatbelt alarm kept sounding. Has anybody else experienced this? If so, what did you do? Disconnect a fuse? Cut a wire?
Two, the ignition key is inserted into a slightly depressed section of the dashboard face. Rather than, for example, hanging from the steering wheel column. As a result, when driving at slower speeds with twists and turns the keys rub back and forth on the dashboard facing. Back and forth, back and forth. Like a water drop torture. I've only got 6 or 7 keys on the key fob, plus the remote. This is a great car - maybe I'm just being anal and looking for absolute perfection. Anybody else experienced this (very minor)irrritant?
Other than that, I'd say Accord and camry better look out!
But to be honest saving $2 a month isn't worth the aggravation seeing that it isn't an absolute that I would save the money. If it were 100% that I could talk them down $200 I might, if it was 50% no.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I couldn't agree with you more about those chimes. If I leave the car running (because it's cold up here in the north right now) while I run into a store for a few minutes, my wife is subjected to those chimes while I'm gone. Extremely annoying. I can't understand why she doesn't like my car. :-(
Someone made a post awhile back about puting a spare, shortened seat belt buckle into the seat belt receptical which would stop the chimes, even though the car's real seat belt isn't buckled. That got me to thinking, perhaps there's an adapter (male/female type), available in a parts store, that would plug into the seat belt receptical which you would plug your real seat belt into. Leaving this adapter plugged into the seat belt receptical might turn off the chimes at all times. I've been meaning to check an auto parts store for this possible adapter. I suppose you could make your own by getting an old seat belt and making a very short extension from it. Then leave the extension always connected to the seat belt receptical in the car.
Anyone else got an idea along these lines?
John
Now you've got me curious.
So what was the make, model and year of your last new car purchase? What date did you buy it and what was its MSRP? Any rebates?
Did you have a trade-in? What was the make, model, mileage and condition? What was its Kelley Bluebook trade-in value?
How much did you pay before adding tax, license and title?
You make a good point about what a person's time is worth. Some of us don't value our time much. Some of us overvalue it too. Some enjoy car shopping and haggling. Some don't.
No offense intended. To each his own.
2000 Hyundai Elantra Station Wagon
What date did you buy it and what was its MSRP?
Summer of 2000 MSRP was around 13,000 - 13,500
Any rebates?
Nope.
Did you have a trade-in?
No I have never traded in a car, I drive them into the ground and sell them for scrap.
How much did you pay before adding tax, license and title?
It was about 12K I got it for around 85% or so of the sticker price.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
My previous car was an '01 Elantra GT 5-spd. On a recent trip home from Buffalo, NY to Pittsfield, MA, I began to get pains in my rear and back, so bad I'd have to pull into every 2nd or 3rd rest area, exit the car and walk around for 5 or 10 minutes. It was agonizing. This had never happened before; the Elantra's seats were always long-haul comfortable. With less than 150 miles left, I realized that my wallet was in the right rear pocket of the shorts I was wearing; I usually have it in the left rear pocket (these shorts had no left rear pocket). Lo and behold, when I removed the wallet, the pains totally disappeared. One would think that the seat is symmetrical, so it shouldn't matter; but it did. Is it possible your problem may have a simple solution, too?