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Comments
other Sonata owners would think the same. Fragile?
Maybe this guy should have driven through 2 raging
snow storms, taken a couple of 600 mile trips, driven
through a rainstorm. Or drive the Pa. Turnpike at 85
mph. Fragile? Oh well. Why would anyone even read that
review after reading the opening line?
Now, if they would only fix the damn seat.
first 1200 miles. No longer than 3 minutes.
It says : 10-20 seconds before moving into Gear!
In cold weather I would use the full 20sec. - and in warm weather less : around 10-15 sec.
The key is to not race the engine before it is fully warmed up!
To keep under 40-50mph before it reaches Normal warm temp.(Use the thermostat gauge as your guide!)
This is why they gave you $17,500 on your trade-in. Edmunds' TMV for the Sonata LX is $1500 under MSRP, so they made $1,500 off you "trading up". A dealer is never going to close a deal if they aren't making money off of it somehow, whether it be profit from the trade-in, profit from the new car sale, profit from the financing, or something like a sales volume bonus. That's why sometimes dealers let a demanding customer walk out the door, because there isn't enough money to made on that deal if the customer is too demanding.
So my advice to jaylin is you should accept that there are going to be a pretty steep cost to trading in your car so soon . . . probably a couple thousand dollars like haefr thinks. You have to decide if the Azera is worth a couple thousand to you in addition to the increased cost of the car.
If it were me, I would definitely not trade in a car that I only owned 2.5 months, but I have a "saver" personality instead of a "spender" personality. The fact is it will cost you . . .the question is if you're comfortable with it costing you.
That is definitely not very good for you... and the engine!
If you have another way of getting to work, I would use it, and save the car from premature engine wear! (another old car?).
If that's most of the driving you do, you will need to have the oil/filter serviced every 2000 miles /2 months... because of the condensation (water) mixing with the oil... and that is not good!
The same thing with the exhaust.
Try to take it on the freeway once a week and drive it around 50miles (to visit someone or go to a distant shopping mall...), at the fastest legal speed to try to burn some of the condensation!.
I had that issue many years ago with a 2-3 mile commute to work. I solved that problem by not driving directly to work, especially on cold days. I would actually drive out of my way to make sure the car warmed up properly and avoided many of the issues caused by short drives.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I agree . . . though it's not always easy with all the tempting new cars and their advertisements coming out each year.
The 3000 is counting rebate, financing, and other owned Hyundai.
*CR buys everything they test through normal retail channels. I don't always agree with CR's conclusions, but at least their test items aren't subject to potential manufacturer "tweaks" to preen performance over what John Q. Buyer would get.
Absolutely. It's not that longer drives won't cause engine wear. It's that longer drives cause both disproportionately less engine wear than short trips do, and help clear excess contaminants out of the engine oil. The easiest miles any internal combustion engine will ever see are those in which it's allowed to fully warm up and "loaf" at freeway speeds on the leanest fuel/air mixture: near "stoichiometric" - the type of driving in which combustion is most theoretically complete on the leanest fuel mixture. (Hint - over-the-road heavy diesel truck engines have little trouble completing a million miles+ between general overhauls. They're most often rolling along fully warmed at nearly constant 70+ mph road speeds.) Short trips, on the other hand, which don't fully warm the engine, result in the highest possible wear. The motor oil doesn't warm to an easily circulating consistency - which means the pressure-fed bearings are partially oil starved until the oil warms to normal operating temperature. (This is why racing a cold engine is always a bad idea.) The engine is running a "rich" fuel/air mixture to maintain cold-weather drivability - and every time you idle and drive off again, there's an extra rich squirt of raw gasoline being injected. Most of the excess unburned fuel vapor goes out the exhaust, but some makes it past the piston rings right into the cold motor oil in the sump where it readily condenses back to liquid gasoline. Fuel dilution of the motor oil immediately results in poorer lubrication qualitities, and later in oxidative byproducts in the oil that set the stage for varnish and sludge buildup in the engine. Water vapor is a natural byproduct of burning gasoline. Again, most goes out the exhuast pipe, but, again, some makes its way past the piston rings, too, to contaminate the motor oil. Both effects are cumulative with each day's 2.5 mile run. Water in the oil combines with sulfur contaminants from the fuel dilution to form sulfuric acid. You end up with a corrosive witch's brew circulating through every pressure-lubed engine part. At least get your car out for a good 20 mile, 55 mph or above romp once a week to evaporate and burn off the excess water condensate and fuel dilution in the motor oil. If you live where freezing winter temperatures are the norm, change your motor oil and oil filter every 3,000 miles. Operation under those conditions easily falls into the "severe service" category. The same is true in regions where temperatures from late spring through early fall are 90 F. or above since few cars other than police cruisers come with a seperate motor oil heat exchanger. Excess heat is never any motor oil's friend.
Here are the reasons for the thought of switching.
i had Lexus LS 400, Mazda Millenia, two Infiniti I30 and also have Nissan Murano. The one thing i miss in Sonata most is that neither the driver's seat nor the steering wheel move when the key is removed. not that i am a huge guy. but it is convenience i am used to. Also Sonata interior is rather bland.
Anyone know if there is any truth to the 100lbs pressure in the V6s?
We've got 250 miles on our 06 Sonata GLSV6. We're going to Vegas in less than a month and we should have about 700 miles on the car prior to our trip. The road we're taking to Vegas is a literal "dragstrip" from Albuquerque all the way to Vegas. It's a major trucker route and if you go less than 70MPH you're sure to get harassed and also I really like to make time when I travel. Our car's been babied thus far (except for a couple short high-rev bursts during our test drive). Just wondering how much of an ill-effect going 70 MPH to Vegas will have on the long-term fuel economy & reliablility of the V6? I will keep the cruise control off so I can vary the speed & RPMs as we go. Just want to do whatever I can to squeeze the most MPG and years out of this motor. Thanks for any info & help
So far, only 5400 miles, (I know that's not long term) everything is fine. Just like new, except for the road crap you get after snow storms. When we have a week or so of forecast clear weather, car wash here I come.
Fitzmall is advertising Sonata LXs for $19,300 including rebates applicable to all purchasers. Take off another $1,000 for the Hyundai loyalty rebate and that's $18,300. That took me about 60 seconds to look up.
Which is $2,500 under the $23,500 MSRP using a $1,000 rebate. That seems to me like $1,500 below MSRP.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I fully agree with that!
The under 4000rpm is Hyundai recommendation to keep under everyday/all time/normal driving after break-in! not break in itself.
The least knowledgeable people when it comes to cars, are Salespeople!
When I was looking at 2006 Sonata... and to test how much the guy knew his stuff, I asked if the Sonata 2006 still has the TIMING BELT, and if it needs replacing at 60K... and the answer was: yes.
nivek911, you're correct to question what you overheard. That service advisor's a moron who's too stupid to trust to push a broom - he wouldn't know which end to hold. This from the 2006 Sonata shop manual referencing oil pressure in the 3.3L V6 engine:
Nominal excess pressure-relief bypass opening pressure: 79.79 psi.
That high a working pressure would generally occur under either of two conditions:
1> when the oil is cold right after 1st morning startup
or
2> if the oil filter becomes clogged
In each case, circulating unfiltered oil to moving parts is better than not circulating any oil to them.
Warm (nominally 230 degrees F.) oil operating pressure: 18.7 psi per 1K engine crankshaft RPMs. So, if Joe Blow's toolin' down the road at 70 mph in fifth gear overdrive, the engine revs are around 2,500 RPM. That would translate to 2.5K x 18.7 = ~47 psi. This figure is pretty much in line with any modern passenger car engine. However, if the ever erudite Mr. Blow were taking on a tricked out, blown Civic at the next opportune "green-light Grand Prix" and held 1st gear out to 4,300 RPM, the oil pressure would spike to about 80 psi - bypass territory per above. (I, too, would love to see the front and rear main seals that could withstand 100 psi long term!)
my friend bought one for $17927 after all the possible rebates, including owner loyalty & competitor car owner or whatever & hyndai financing. But this price is before tax and license.
it took him something like 3 months to get it at that price, but in the end he had 2 dealers offer it to him. one is Rosen Hyundai in Algonquin IL, and the other, the one he bought from is in Gurnee IL. Gurnee Hyundai.
and it is an LX for sure.
ps. currently at Rosen Hyundai, they are offering GLs for $15449.
http://www.rosenhyundai.com/en_US/
That is a GL NOT a GLS
http://www.rosenhyundai.com/en_US/
(and that Rosen ad is also only one car, one stock number)
model - "GLs". Get it now? The letter "s" was intentionally left uncapitalized.
Thank you.
I was not sharing experience of a particular transaction, I was just passing on an advertised price. I didn't trade in anything.
However, $17,500 trade in for GLS with 5000 miles on it, and $19,500 for a brand new LX was the good deal to me. Especially, when I had back pain and leg discomfort in that GLS. What the meaning of buying a new car when you hate to drive it everyday?
The only opinion I ever passed out was that "trading up" after a short period of time is going to cost quite a bit of money. I never indicated if it's the "right" or "wrong" thing to do. It all depends on each person's personality. Please see what I said in message #3286. Each person has to decide if they are comfortable paying the difference.
I'm sure you're aware a car purchase is very rarely an investment.