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Comments
My 11 month old '05 looks real good, but not like yours. However, I haven't seen any that look as good as yours.
John
There will be no warranty problems with doing your own oil changes. If you had an engine failure and Hyundai wanted to say it was because the oil was not changed often enough they would have to get it tested. Far reaching senario at best!
As far as the Hyundai oil filter is concerned it is nothing special. I cut mine open ('06 I4 Sonata) while changing the oil and it is much better than a crappy filter like a FRAM, but not as solid as a PureONE. Just so so in my opinion. I bought a bunch of PureONE filters from Pepboys which should last me several years.
Excellent idea! We're getting a new Super Wal-Mart here, and I trust them to change my oil more than the local Oil Express. (although they have been faultless the past 8 years, they employ students. Arg!)
I suspect that some dealers do cheap oil changes as a loss leader to get you in the door. Once there, they point out worn belts, leaky hoses, worn tires, etc. Nothing wrong with that!
I think your tongue is FIRMLY planted in your cheek. If not, then please turn sideways so I can see if yer nose is growin' longer.
Nothing wrong with that unless they point out a worn belt and you just had the belt changed.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I don't spend as much time on my vehicle as some do. It takes me about 2 hours total to wash and wax. I don't use a polish yet because my paint is still new and doesn't need any abrasives.
S100 is the easiest wax I have ever used. It goes on like butter and comes off very easy. Very little dust afterwards as well. This stuff doesn't stain your black trims either.
Here is my car wash routine. I use Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash
1) Wash my rims with a bucket of soap and a lug nut brush for the lug nuts and a microfiber towel for the rest of the rims. Then I rinse the soap off of the rims. (10 minutes)
2) Dump out rim water and put in new soap and water into bucket. Wash one side of my car from the top down with a chenelle mit. Rinse off that side of car to get soap off. Then dump out the water and put new soap and water in. Do the same to the other side of the car. (20 minutes)
3) Dry the car with a microfiber towel. (15 minutes)
4) Wax with S100. (20 minutes)
5) Take off the wax and buff to a high shine using microfiber towels. (25 minutes).
I wash about once every two weeks and wash and wax about every two months. So it only takes me about 45 minutes to do the wash alone and the car still shines like I just waxed it.
Why would they do that? When you examine the belt, they would be so busted! Surely a reputable shop would not risk their reputation to sell you a belt.
There was one well known dealer near Chicago (it no longer exists as the partners parted ways a while ago) that was actually caught taking perfectly good parts from two cars switching them saying that they needed new parts back in the 80's.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Genuine Hyundai Oil filter Sonata, Azera 3.3L 3.8L 2006
Have had my GLS V6 for over 8 months, with one oil change so far. It was done by my local independent mechanic, a great guy I take all my cars to. He had to get the filter from the Hyundai dealer yet still honored his coupon price of $14.95. Including tax and disposal fee, I only paid about $20 total. Next time, I'll buy the filter myself and bring it to him.
But we learned to avoid those years ago, right? If someone in my little town gets gypped, it's all over town in a week!
There was one well known dealer near Chicago (it no longer exists as the partners parted ways a while ago)
See what I mean?
Any good reliable shop or mechanic is OK, regardless of the name. My mechanic could change his name to "Chicken Liver", and he would still have customers lined up to see him. :shades:
Thats fine and well for Mayberry, buy my "little" town has almost 9 Million people in and around it. Places like that can thrive in areas like that.
See what I mean?
It didn't close down because of its practices, it was thriving in spite of it. They closed down because the two partners wanted to end the partnership and sold it. It since has moved down the street and is operating under a different name.
Both partners each now have their own dealerships and I would suspect that the same stuff is still going on.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
The dealerships around military bases know the people they sell the cars to will leave in a couple of years and that new people are constantly moving in. Thus they know they will not have a negative reputation. Don't ever buy a car or furniture near a military installation, unless you are already a savvy buyer.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Found it:
http://www.leftlanenews.com/2006/01/09/detroit-2006-kia-unveils-20065-optima/
The Optima also allows one to get all the luxury features of the EX trim level, and still retain 4 cylinder economy.
What's more interesting, though, is that the Optima website link title lists the I4's output at 161hp*, "*With premium unleaded fuel." It makes no mention of the V6's output, or fuel requirement.
Does the Sonata's I4 also require premium to attain its rated 162hp? If so, that begs the question whether the 3.3L V6 also requires premium to produce its rated 235hp.
specs and results
Maybe someone can check their owner's manual and verify the fuel requirement? :confuse:
John
True, but the question was about the difference between the 2.4 I4 and the 2.7 V6 in the Optima, not the new 3.3 V6 used in the Sonata which at least for now is not available in the new Optima.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
I don't think the computer will allow knocking at all. If the octane is too low and the computer senses knocking, it will compensate by reducing spark advance. This will reduce power a little in the process, but not much.
I read reviews that this is a very quiet car but not to my experience. My wife's Camry drives much quiter on the same road. Is anyone else experiencing the same problem. Any solutions.
The only solution to get rid of the noise is to buy quieter tires... and there are quieter tires (Tirerack.com has a lot of reviews!)!
One bright side though, those tires last for ever (70K-80K) if driven normally!
Now I wonder how all the people who complain about other noises coming from the back /the gas tank/the trunk etc...; can hear anything above the noise produced by the tires and the wind!
Earlier mentioned in: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t6559-sonata...-3-problems.htm
If the engine warms up at idle - not driving the car there is nothing to hear - either just after ethe engine is started or 5-10 min after.
If i drive in the car, then after approx 1-2 km there is a very annoying mettalic ticking sound (seems as it comes from left in the engine).
When i hold at a traffic light, people are turning their head, and think that i'm driving a diesel-car...
When the engine is warm - it dissapear more or less, but not totaly.
The nature of it seems not to be valve related (just sounds so).
Had the car to a dealer today, and he said that it is common, and that the engine should have this sound - I think he's talking crap.
Anyone have any experience with this.?
The campaign continues...
Boy am I glad I bought the LX. There is just no comparison in terms of luxury. The cloth seats are awful, no automatic climate control and no power seat make the GLS feel cheap. Although I will admit that the ride is smoother which I attribute to the 16" vs 17" wheels.
I brought my car in for service for the following reasons:
- the rear center armrest is developing a tear in the leather at the pivot point where the armrest rubs against the hinges that allow the rear seats to fold down.
- a rattle coming from the rear trunk area. Some days there is no rattling at all and on others it's extremely annoying. I think I narrowed it down to the plastic piece at the rear of the trunk in which the tabs of the spare tire cover rest. It seems that a little foam tape should resolve the issue.
- program the speed sensitive door locks.
I was told that there are 3 recalls on my vehicle:
1. Reprogram the computer...for what I don't know.
2. Replace the front cupholder...I had no problem with mine.
3. Replace a piece on the exterior door handles...again, I've had no problems with mine.
Overall, I am extremely pleased with my car and the dealership. They seem more concerned about my vehicle than I am. I'm confident they'll fix any issues with my car.
I asked what the price of an oil change is and the dealer told me it is $36.99 due to the filter and "special oil". I knew about the filter but didn't think the car needed any kind of special oil.
All of this of course, aside from the factual information, is just my opinion. :P
I don't think so! I traded a Sonata with 50K on it, and the tires still looked and drove almost as new.
Michelin tires have many things against them but wearing that fast is not one of them!
Here is some info on passenger tire ratings:
Tire Grades: Uniform Tire Quality Grading System or UTQG
The Department of Transportation requires tire manufacturers to grade passenger car tires based on three performance factors: treadwear, traction and temperature resistance.
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test track. A tire graded 200 would wear twice as long as one graded 100. Your actual tire mileage depends upon the conditions of use and may vary due to driving habits, service practices, differences in road characteristics and climate.
* More Than 100 - Better
* 100 - Baseline
* Less Than 100 - Poorer
Note: Treadwear grades are valid only for comparisons within a manufacturer's product line. They are not valid for comparisons between manufacturers.
Traction
Traction grades represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. The traction grade is based upon "straight ahead" braking tests. It does not indicate cornering ability.
* A - Best
* B - Intermediate
* C - Acceptable
Temperature
The temperature grade represents the tire's resistance to the generation of heat when tested under controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperatures can cause the materials of the tire to degenerate and reduce the life of the tire. Excessive temperatures can lead to tire failure. Federal law requires that all tires meet the minimal requirement of Grade C.
* A - Best.
* B - Intermediate
* C - Acceptable
YMMV
1. Reprogram the computer...for what I don't know.
2. Replace the front cupholder...I had no problem with mine.
3. Replace a piece on the exterior door handles."
What country do you live in?
I'm in the USA and I received a recall notice from Hyundai regarding replacing the seat lever that allows the seat to tilt back. I've gotten no notices of the 3 items you mentioned.
Anyone in the USA get a recall notice on the above 3 items?
John
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 05V316000 Mfg's Report Date : JUL 06, 2005
Component: SUSPENSION:AUTOMATIC STABILITY CONTROL (ASC)
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 1970
Summary:
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 3.3 LITER ENGINES AND ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROL (ESC), THE ESC MAY HAVE BEEN PROGRAMMED TO BE OVERSENSITIVE TO THE ONSET OF OVERSTEERING WHILE DRIVING ON BANKED CURVES, CAUSING INADVERTENT APPLICATION OF THE FRONT OUTSIDE BRAKE WHEN ESC ACTIVATION MAY NOT BE NEEDED.
Consequence:
THIS MAY CAUSE THE VEHICLE TO SLOW AND MAY AFFECT THE PATH THAT THE VEHICLE IS TRAVELING. BRAKE APPLICATION CAUSED BY INADVERTENT ESC ACTIVATION MAY RESULT IN A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPROGRAM THE ESC HYDRAULIC ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT. THE RECALL BEGAN ON JULY 29, 2005. OWNERS MAY CONTACT HYUNDAI AT 1-800-633-5151.
Notes:
HYUNDAI RECALL NO. 070. CUSTOMERS MAY ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
It is my understanding that these recalls are being handled during regular service as they are not considered to be safety issues.
I asked why the computer needed to be reprogrammed and was told it was a driveablility enhancement issue. Nobody could tell me exactly what was being enhanced. Does anybody have any info on this?
I think what bobad is referring to is the fact that you have made multiple posts about this issue on multiple message boards which may give a skewed perception of how common this issue actually is. I can understand that this noise disturbs you and it sounds like yours may be a bit of an extreme case. I think the fact of the matter is that you should pursue the issue until you are satisfied with the outcome.
i guess they should have it as an option at least.