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As everyone knows, we have several sales folks who are members here. They are as entitled as any other member is to get feedback and look for information on any vehicle that interests them without having to justify their interests.
Let's call off the dogs here, please!
Best way will be, find same car you have and try that one if it is lot better than yours.
If your car is way worse than other same I4 2002-2005 Sonatas try:
1.use other gas station-your car's engine might not like the gas you use. Try premium gas once with Injector cleaner added. This is more likely the solution.
In fact, one of the gas station's gas cause my Integra engine rough & stop running at idle many times. Now I use Costco gas station for that reason. Since then, I had no stalling problems on my Integra.
2.Do basic maintenance like spark plug,timing check, fuel filter, and air filter
3.I saw a 06 GL owner had engine vibration problem from the day 1. They end up find that out that one of little part was missing at valve lifter, but this is very rare case.
What the Dealership mechanic said by the way?
The dirty little secret with oil companies is that its all the same gas (caviet: some places may water down the gas or water could seep into the tanks). The gas you get at the Exxon could be Shell gas refined by Shell, or BP gas or so on and so forth.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
For a while now I've noticed that when my 2.4 engine is warm, at the end of a drive, when I slowly back up into my garage, in idle speed (just above 750 rpm, gas pedal is NOT touched) -- there is a SUBTLE RATTLING noise/vibration coming from the engine.
It's even more pronounced when I press on the brake pedal -- which causes the RPM to go down a bit, to just under 750.
And it goes away when I move the lever out of gear to Neutral or to Park.
It is mostly heard/felt in Reverse, but also, sometimes when in Drive, again, at very low RPM and the brake pedal pressed.
Is this the kind of rattle discussed here? Is this normal to this (or ANY) 4 cyl. engine?
But, again, the rattle/vibration is actually MORE pronounced when I apply the brake and bring the car to a stop (still in Reverse gear).... That's what makes it a "mystery"...
There is no accounting for taste. I already gave you an example: he sells SUVs but likes sport coupes. That does not make the SUV a bad vehicle.
Well thats 23 MPG, may I ask what type of driving were you doing?
It was 95% highway averaging 65-72 mph.
Its not about taste, its about showing confidence in the product you're selling.
It was 95% highway averaging 65-72 mph.
Yeah maybe you should have gotten more, especially if it was an I4.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
There could be quite a number of possibilities for a subtle metallic rattle. The one I would certainly suspect is the exhaust system, specifically the catalytic converter heat shield, an loose exhaust hanger, or even a loose baffle in the muffler or mufflers. I've had this exact thing happen a number of times, and it's always related to the exhaust system, most typically the catalytic converter heat shield.
At low RPMs under load, the engine runs a bit rougher than normal, and there is quite a bit of vibration and movement in the exhaust system.
I don't think your noise is emanating from the engine or transaxle.
If you want vibration and noise, I will let you drive my 1964 Triumph TR4 with the old Vanguard Ferguson "tractor engine" wet-sleeve long-stroke Inline-4 cylinder with only 3 main bearings. Vibration . . . it's enough to rattle fillings out of your teeth at idle under load.
And NO, I do not wish to rattle any fillings out of my teeth, please. I HATE DENTISTS. I really really do.
Depends on a tank, the same good gas could be contaminated and became a bad gas too.
I mentioned that earlier. One time my mom filled her brand new Chevy with almost 100% pure water because the gas station tank had a leak and filled with ground water. The station, which had repair facilities, offered to fix it for free but since it only had a few thousand miles on it she had the dealer do it and sent them the bill.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Mackabee
:shades:
This claim you made, that V- type engines have sort of a natural counterbalance within that mostly cancels out vibration but inline engines seem to have a tougher time of it, is NOT true.
Nope. Not true.
V motors are not inherently smoother than inline motors. In fact, all other things equal, the inline engines are simply smoother.
Discounting complicated electronics and counterbalance shafts and counter rotating weights in some motors, it is the number of cylinders, weights of moving parts, direction of reciprocating masses, the firing order and the number of degrees of rotation separating the power impulses during the engine's operation that dictates the natural smoothness of a motor.
Four cylinder motors, either V or I style, are not naturally smooth running and need multiple fixes built into them to smooth them out. But a properly designed inline-6 cylinder engine is inherently smoother than a V-6 motor with similar technology, displacement and power. Obviously, there are more power impulses per crankshaft revolution in a 6 cylinder motor than in a four. That alone is one reason for a six being smoother than a four. But, in an inline six, the power impulses are also evenly spaced around the crankshaft rotation. In a four they are not. In an inline-6 motor, rather than a VEE, in addition to the reciprocating mass being all in the same plane, promoting smoothness, the firing impulses are also evenly spaced in degrees and time as the crankshaft rotates. An inline cylinder arrangement is more conducive to smoothness than a V motor which has pistons and rods flailing about in a V angle. Neither a four or eight, inline or VEE, nor even a V-6, offers the same smoothness factors combination as the inline six. Of course, trade-offs other than natural smoothness have influenced most manufacturers to favor V-6 motors over inline 6's nowadays.
Opposed cylinder motors (180 degrees) are also smoother than V motors for some of the same reasons.
Compare the smoothness of the old two cylinder horizontally opposed BMW and Marusho motorcycle engines to any of their competion's V twin motors. Harley Davidson, Indian, Ducati, Moto Guzzi, etc, all had vibration much worse than the boxer (opposed) motors.
A minor point really, but maybe interesting to some.
That said, the Sonata and Azera V-6 motors are very smooth.
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Why shoot yourself in the foot? Right now, I have an 06 Sonata, and the quality is great. The bang for the buck is unbeatable. But nothing... not Hyundai, Honda, Nissan, have better quality than Toyota. Yes, they screwed up on that sludge problem, but it will make them better. Hyundai is cleaning their clock with the excellent Sonata for $5000 less, but they'll come back with an answer for it. No manufacturer, not even Toyota, is immune to problems and an occasional bad decision. If you rule out Toyota, you're only hurting yourself.
local: 24 MPG
highway: 40 MPG at 55-60 mph.
35 MPG at 65 mph.
pretty impressive.
Then we'd have one PERFECT car named Hyundai Sonata.
It's on a 60 miles trip, all on highway.
I reset it on the highway.
Mackabee
I highly doubt anyone has even heard of anything like this happening, but I drove from St. Louis to Chicago last Thursday afternoon and I did not hear ANYTHING hit my car. Friday morning, there is a 6 crack starting from the right 1/4 of the windshield. Saturday morning, the crack got bigger and now is past half of the windshield. I didn't park under any trees and there wasn't any extreme weather... Think I can get it taken care of as a warranty repair?
It sounds like you might have a stress crack happening. Does there appear to be an impact point? or is it starting at the edge of the windshield?
It could also be that something did hit and for whatever reason you didn't notice it at the time. It is possible that being on the right side something hit and you just didn't notice it.
As for getting it repaired as a warranty repair, I would doubt it but you can always ask, the worst thing is that they say no. If you have to pay for it yourself contact your insurance agent, many times they have deals with repair places where you can get a discount with the repair.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
all do respect they have to monitor these tanks, if not it will not only become a health factor but a safety factor too meaning lawsuit. and then they will loose more money than spending thousands a year maintaining these tanks.
Last time I went to get my windshield replaced , they forgot to connect the washer lines back together, and I almost flooded the engine with the washer, while driving on hwy.
Third, make sure that you get it on the hwy and listen carefully to the wind noise, sometimes they don’t install the windshield correctly, and it makes more noise as a result.
Good luck
If it is a stress crack, why would that be my fault? Shouldn't that be covered under the bumper-to-bumper?
Ok, scoti1, are you implying that the catalytic converter caused the rotten egg odor? :confuse: I don't doubt that Toyota let slip a few bad catalytic converters that had to be replaced under warranty - and you can bet your last farthing that Toyota's supplier(s) heard about it pronto, too. ("Stuff" happens, and it's entirely possible that the only link between your defective converter and the in-cabin odor was a defective seam in the outer case that allowed the hydrogen sulfide gas to collect around the car and enter the cabin while stopped at idle through the fresh air ventilation system rather than totally exit through the tail pipe for following motorists to "enjoy") But, hydrogen sulfide requires sulfur to form. Catalytic converters don't have any. The only avenue providing sulfur to the combustion cycle is fuel. (unless you live near an active volcanic vent or on planet Venus with its sulfuric acid atmosphere...) By the time you fueled up again at your usual station, the underground tanks probably had been re-filled with decent gasoline - glad you got your problem solved.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Not only have I heard about this, but I've seen it with my own eyes!
While waiting at the drive-in teller to make a deposit Winter '04, I noticed a little line on the windshield of my 1990 Toyota Corolla. At first, I couldn't figure quite out what I was seeing. After looking closely for a few minutes, it dawned on me what I was seeing. Without any explanation, a small 1/4 inch crack had developed. Watching carefully, the crack increased in length, right in front of my eyes! Fortunately, the crack was growing horizontally, rather than vertically. Be the time I had finished with the bank and made my 33 mile trek to work, the 1/4 crack had grown to span half the windshield. Within a matter of days, the crack made its way across the entire bottom portion of the windshield, close to metal trim. :sick:
I would certainly be asking the dealership if in fact the windshield is covered. I would imagine it is.
Good luck with the windshield! I hope it is a warranty item.
It's a slightly unfair comparison between the XLE (I assume its the '06 model) and the 4cyc Sonata. The options on the XLE are greater. The 4 will give you better mileage though. which one has the cheaper montly payments?
More likely 2 or 3 grand less than the lowest after-rebate price of a new one, so they have room to resell at a profit.
Worry about resale value after you have it 3 or 4 years.
Maybe 2007 with XM.
Hyundai should think about making their cars with AUX input also.
The nav system makes the dash design seem much sharper, more upscale. I never noticed before now that the insert in the upper center dash is a mirror image in shape of the surround for the HVAC controls. That is a nice design touch, very symmetrical. Maybe if Hyundai tied those two components together better visually it would make the dash really stand out.