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They are "Front Wheel Opening Extension Pads".
They were not installed at the factory to prevent damage during shipment.
They are installed under the car at the front of the front wheel well. One flange faces down, one flange faces forward and are marked left and right.
Remove 2 screws from each side and discard. Use 3 screws per side and install.
OK???
I guess the only thing I need to know now is, is there a real need and/or purpose for this extension?
In theory, having two extra cylinders share the load would translate into more engine life since the stronger motor would have more torque which would translate into lower engine operating speed for a given vehicle speed. In theory. In practice, with modern motor oils, even the "lowly" conventional dinosaur-juice formulations, the body will be more likely to become an undrivable rust bucket safety hazard before you wear out either engine type - presuming you practice reasonably sane oil and filter change intervals. kdhspyder is absolutely right - 300,000+ miles is not out of the question. I have an '89 Toyota pickup (I4) parked out front with over 280,000 miles on it. The engine's had NO internal work.
Yesterday on my way home from work, I stopped and flipped down the rear seats so that I could hopefully tell better if the sound was coming from inside the trunk--I still can't tell. I'm debating whether to wait until my first oil change (another 2k miles yet) or to go in early.
I found this link after learning what it is:
http://www.clublexus.com/index.php/article/articleview/1829/1/296
I called the dealer and are going to take my car back for them to install it.
What is it for anyway??
Obviously the Toyota "Pre-Delivery Checklist" was ignored.
I have no idea what the noise could be, haven't heard anything on mine. It's certainly not going to be the fiberboard cover over the jack -- that's not large or heavy enough.
The only thing I can suggest is making sure the jack itself is secure, as well as the spare tire and the fiberboard panel that holds the tire changing tools.
All the sales guys thought it was the license plate holder.
Now that the parts is on, I definatly notice a significant improvment in handling.
nah.. just kidding.
Thanks guys!
No surprise there!!!
but did they tell you what the darn thing is for? :confuse:
:-) J/k.
I didn't ask them. I was more concern they wouldn't know where to put it.
I gotta tell ya, now I feel "whole" again with the mystery part at where it belong.
Looked all over the web, found documentation but none of it explain the purpose of it. Seems like the Japanese version doesn't have it.
I was looking around on eBay and some of the listing seems to imply that all I need to do was swap the light bulb. Other sites sales these "conversion kit".
What's the truth here? Can I just swap out the halogen bulb for a HID bulb? Or do I need one of them conversion kit? The conversion kit seems to run around $250 or so.
What's the purpose of these conversion kit anyway?
I live in Chicago . The streets are so well lit here that occasionaly you see drivers that forget to turn their lights on at night.
The cars here that have the HID lights probably get them just for " looks " not because it's dark with the normal car lights .
I spent my money on mud flaps and side moldings .
"Yes I did change my stock Holagen bulbs and made my light low beams and fogs HID's from MCculloch. I got a conversion kit and changed them it is pretty easy and they lights look awesome "
Any concerns here?
Anyone selling "HID bulbs" that somehow get plugged into the stock [halogen] fixtures is stealing your money. They may have a different color temperature, and may even be very slightly different in brightness, but they are not High Intensity Discharge lights.
What's the truth here?..."
The truth is there's no yellow brick road. The $250.00 kits have a special xenon-discharge high-intensity bulb and an exciter/ballast to allow them to function. These bulbs have NO filament - the exciter/ballast forces an arc through the xenon gas that then enters an atomically "excited" state that results in a continuous high intensity, blue-white light discharge. Think of it as a continuous photographic electronic flash and you'll have the workings pretty much down. You cannot plug one of the true high-intensity bulbs into your current headlight socket and expect it to work. (I doubt the sockets are the same, anyway.) The light bulb swaps are merely another halogen-filament bulb that is blue tinted to mimic the lit appearance of a xenon-discharge high intensity system. They're by no means high-intensity, either. These fakes use a thinner filament than the standard issue halogens that came on your car to burn slightly brighter and to make up for the bulb tinting. The "hotter" filament rarely lasts an entire year in use, though.
"Even Mario Andretti could not apply the right front and rear left brake at the same time — even if he had four pedals," Baloga says.
I just picked up my SE V6 from the dealer last night. One question I have is about the color of the dash lights. For the SE, the specs list Blue Sport Optitron Gauges. My dash lights (speedometer, etc) are white and my radio/temp knobs are blue-ish. Is this the same as the other models? I guess I assumed that all my interior night lights would be blue and the gauges would look different since it states "Blue Sport". Does anyone have pics of the difference between the SE dash and other models.
Thank you
Hopefully they'll get this tranny problem resolved before I make a purchase in 3mos.
I think it probably is a good idea to hold off for a while on your purchase. At least one involving a brand new redo.
I worked at dealerships and worked with many service techs and have also had some bad instances with dealerships with my own car. Unfortunately there are many hacks at the dealerships and you never know if you are getting one or not. Better to wait until issues are resolved so you won't need to take that chance and potentionally have a hack replacing your trans or whatever the issue is.
Just my own opinion, based on experiences and working with techs.
There is no excuse for the way the sun visor doesn't slide on the rod when you swing it over the side window. It doesn't reach far enough across the side window due to the position of the hinge. Probably a consequence of designing the car on a computer without actually mocking it up. It must add all of ten cents to manufacturing cost to have the sun visor slide on the rod.
The vast dashboard is really strange. Great dust-catcher.
The last one I drove had a terrible "creak" in the rear window. The salesman handled it well. Heard it himself right away, had me pull over so that he could sit in the back seat, localized the problem, turned the car into the service department when we got back.
Really disappointed.
I think the Camry is a great vehicle as we have had two previous ones (1999 and 2005)but this level of uncomfort from something so simple is hard to deal with. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
I guess even Toyota can miss ergonomic issues now and then.
I once had an Chevy Celebrity (Worst new car I ever owned, by the way) that had such a hard drivers arm rest that I would pad it with a towel whenever I went on a long trip as it pained the elbow after a while, so this kind of niggling problem can be very irritating.
Don't know what recourse you have at this point, maybe a get a Sawzall and do a bit of interior body work?
I will take some pictures tonight. Are yours very blue? Or just slightly? I know this isn't a really important issue, but I liked the idea of having blue and there isn't another SE in my area that I can compare to. If I have the wrong color, I would like to get it corrected.
I am looking foward to the 2009 refresh for a much needed fix to this issue, better sunvisors, a new 4 cylinder engine with a substantially improved mileage and horsepower rating (even though the current 4 cylinder is great), a better trunk hinge system, a memory selection button to adjust the driver's seat, steering wheel and mirrors for 2 different drivers on the XLE models, the smart key system in the SE and XLE 4 cylinder, and a quest for an even quieter cabin.
I sure hope the folks at Toyota see this to consider the fixes and upgrades I have mentioned, especially the fix for the door armrests. Also,maybe a choice for a darker fake wood for the gray interiors instead of that baby poop colored light stuff that is now the only option on the XLEs.
For any owners, please let me know if you think the door side armrest are as bad as I am describing.
Thanks and have a good afternoon.
Except for the armrest item which is valid for shorter drivers ( I find it comfortable actually ) the other suggestions are mainly Avalon-directed. Even the XL Avalon does not have all the features you suggest for the Camry. This differentiation is why there are different trim levels.