It's no classic car but I'm trying to figure out what to do with it.
It's got 118k miles and until recently was my daily driver. I skid into a curb at ~5-10 mph, took it to my mechanic to find out if it's worth fixing, he "fixed" the car without my permission and forced me to pay $800 cash (no credit card because he said he was scared I would dispute the charge). Called cops (who was friends with mechanic, lucky me) who straight out told me he can't force the mechanic to do anything. Guess what? The car is worse than before.
I won't get into the story in an attempt to keep it simple. The car needs new struts, might as well put new springs on too, brakes are now dragging (was told said mechanic likely ripped the brake hose while getting a strut out, then replaced a brake hose with the wrong type, and because of this I have a brake that's dragging or something to that effect), an alignment, and new tires.
Having been forced to pay $800 in repairs on a $4000 car (and finding out I have to pay another $700-$1000 to fix what the previous mechanic broke/didn't fix) I'm a bit hesitant.
Should I: 1) Go to another mechanic and pay the $1000 to get all these fixed? 2) Pay an extra ~$400 and have performance struts/springs installed (Koni Yellow/Ground Controls) 3) Buy a new car (I've been in the market for a bit, trying to decide between a new Legacy 2.5i SE or costlier TSX) and dump the Civic for $3-$4k 4) Buy a new car and fix Civic myself over the summer (keep in mind I'm a newbie but willing to learn)
If I were in that situation I'd put in a complaint to the Better Business Bureau about the shoddy mechanic.
As for what to do with the car, I'd keep it (if you have space), buy a new car since you were in the market already, and fix this one up during the summer as a project. IF you get bored of it you can dump it anytime in as is condition.
If you were in Texas I would say get a lawyer. I don't know about elsewhere, but in Texas if the shop does work that was not authorized, they get to eat it. And if they go for a mechanics lien and try to hold the car when they cannot show the work was authorized, well, there are lawyers lining up to take those cases. For $800 you would spend about 45 minutes in small claims court and walk away with the money.
Austin Texas used to be one of the worlds worst for auto repair ripoffs, and some of them still try it. But there were some well publisized cases here that made a lot of folks clean up their acts.
One of the classic cases was a large independent shop that did state inspections. They never saw a car that didn't need at least $50 worth of extra work. There were finally so many complaints that the DPS took an undercover car in perfect condition and dropped it off for an inspection. When they came back, the shop told them the fuel pump was leaking, headlight burned out, on and on. The violation was so flagrant that they were shut down immediately (not just inspection violations, but fraud and theft by deception) and the company finally filed bankruptcy and went away.
You have to ignore the $800 in making your decision, except to follow the other's advice and go after the mechanic in small claims court, and (in the unlikely event he's a member) with the BBB. My only question is your assumption you'd get $3-4k for this car. It might be less, making the decision to repair it even easier. If it's really $1000 to fix it, most buyers would discount the car more than that just in case it's actually $2000.
Porsche 924 turbo -- price is fair enough for a parts car. Don't ever never think about fixing it.
'76 Pontiac Lemons -- looks to be in nice shape and styling ain't bad for the 70s. If you were a kid doing up his first car, you could put a crate engine in there with some modest guts and fix the suspension so you don't get seasick, could be a decent ride for under $7,500.
I think I've seen that '76 Grand Lemons pop up on eBay a couple times. I wonder what's wrong with it, that the owner's had problems selling it? $1850 sounds like a reasonable price to me. Heck, if I had the time to spare, I'd be tempted to fly out there and drive it back!
Mine has a few more options (power windows, power seat), but I like the color of this one better. I'd immediately lose those skirts, though!
that could be a great buy if all the documentation adds up.
the insane prices of muscle cars have made them all go up, even the amcs. If i'm not mistaken, an amc muscle car fetched big money at BJ this year.
edit: just checked, there was an AMX coupe that went across last year for $43k. But the last javelin was 2 years ago and it fetched $21k with the 360 engine.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If 1975 to about 1984 was the dark era of the automobile age, do you still think trying to sell "anything" from, say, 1982 to '84 would be a difficult challenge?
It has been there at least once, because we took a look at it here about 6-8 months ago. Odd that it will not sell. $1850 is about as cheap as you can find a running car with a heater around these parts!
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
what a coincidence. I was just thinking of the rover car this morning when I spotted a Freelander. Ok, that's kind of an incomplete thought ... you know how your mind can wander during a commute in traffic ... but I saw the freelander, though of the upcoming LR2 and wondered if, since there is an LR3 and LR2, there might be an LR1 ... hence thoughts of a repeat of a rover car.
shouldn't there be an LR1 though? I mean, WHY name something the LR3 if you didn't plan to 2 versions to slot below it?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
It is hard to imagine a worse buy. No parts, no dealers, no demand, typical British "quality"...and you'll end up with "a V-8 racing machine"...I know, shooting fish in a barrel...
That Prelude is worth a dollar ($1). It's not running and it's automatic. I don't know why people want others to make an offer on their unwanted beaters. I doubt that he'll get any calls about it. Almost makes me wanna call him and offer him a buck.
I like the 4 door chevy, lloks half decent for the money.
RX7 looks decent too.
The Benz diesel looks to be almost same color as my parent's 300D that they had.
Reading the list of features on that 560SEC almost makes me wanna laugh.
These dealers use some kind of antiquated database/feature menu to describe these cars: "Power brakes, power steering, vanity mirrors, gauge cluster!!, reclining seats, rear defroster" :confuse:
Most cars had those as standard features for the past 20 years, especially a top of the line Benz!!
They can use the space they wasted on those features and describe something else about it.
Wow..thats the issue with Craigslist, there is no cost for the add and most of the people aren't so serious about selling anything. Muscle cars are starting to drop back out of the strastosphere (they are still there, they just dont seem as bad). That Chevelle looks cool, if it were half that price I would be more interested. The Prelude and Corolla SR5 are damned by lack of a clutch, and I think that Corolla is too new to be RWD, so it misses on two counts with the fast and furious crowd. The RX-7 if its not rusty would be fun. They have a buzzer at redline so you know you got there. 240D=68hp. I don't care if you have a 4 speed or a 5 speed or a 10 speed, glaciers move faster than that thing (and I've driven Vovlo 240s).
I like that '89 Alfa....looks "squared away" but unfortunately still has the rubber spoiler..the 90s Spiders are so much prettier (and their pricing reflects this). Not true what he says about the AC! It's a very decent unit, better than anything in a Benz from the same era, that's for sure.
2004 Saab Aero -- oh, he thinks that after he's done all the mods that he still has a warranty? Yeah, sure.....
Wow, I go away for a couple of days and a hundred new posts!
Nice to have a forum where everybody gets along, not that I would ever get into an argument in an Edmunds forum~
As far as Audi's go, I have always thought they were great cars to drive but nothing, and I mean NOTHING but trouble!
It all started with those first 100's. They indeed, had inboard disks that were a b***h to work on. To make it even sweeter, the engines would develop oil leaks and the oil would get on the brakes~
With the 560, apparently the issue is with the timing chain(s). I was told generally speaking if it has 2, its okay, if its a single run away. As much as I like the MGB convertible, I think there are a number of other coupes I would rather have than the MGB-GT (240z, 2002) The TR-7 isn't as interesting to me as the 2002 parked behind it, but apparently TR-7s are easy to motor swap and someone could figure out how to have a good time with it. That 450 SLC is a money pit but might have good parts for a 450 SL. The Riv needs new everything but looks like it has little rust, and I think you can get most of the body parts pretty cheaply through the restoration catalog places. That Porsche lacks redeeming qualities other than the motor, and that might be questionable. That early TR looks like it would be fun. Mechanically it is similar to an ox-cart with a lawnmower engine, so it couldn't be that hard.
This makes me miss California even more (of course, if I was there, after paying rent/mortgage, I wouldn't have money to play with projects anyway...)
Yeah maybe he meant that about the carbs. Those dual carb units can be troublesome. I think they can be swapped easily. Or, if you have an SE engine just laying around, drop it in.
The TR3 might be worth restoring but he's a bit high at $5,900. I think around $3,000 is fair enough for what he has.
The MGB GT is definitely not worth restoring. You can buy nice ones for 1/3 the price of a TR3.
the only advantage of restoring an MGB rather than a TR3 is that you can buy any part you need for an MGB delivered UPS to your door next day....even an entire new BODY, in steel!
TR3s are a tough restoration. They are made up of a gazillion bolt on panels and it is really really tough to get them to all fit together once you've taken everything apart.
Well that's ONE TC that will never be a TC again...glad we got rid of that beautiful rare $40,000 car of historical significance! Now where's that '53 Corvette and my hack saw?
Pile of junk but a virtual treasure chest of spare parts for the right person. Just the relays, power window motors, climate controls, etc. are worth a bloody fortune.
They love to break the regulators...those efficient Germans combined a power motor that could lift a large cow, with a lightweight aluminum regulator frame....SNAP!
Rare TR-6? I have always loved the look of the TR-6, but back in the day when I was driving my Alfa Spider, my friend was alwaysrepairing his TR-6 (and not driving it).
'39 Cadillac--possibly worth the effort. It would depend on the integrity of the body. Being a base 4-door model, this drops the value considerably and makes a total restoration a losing proposition. But it's a nice car in its own way. If it were me, I'd get it running, make it safe, clean it up and drive it as is. It costs the same to restore a '39 Cadillac be it humble 4-door, limousine, convertible, V-12 (I think they still made them in '39) or whatever, so one has to be sober about this.
TR6 -- don't know what's "rare" about it, but if it's as nice as the ad suggests, it's probably worth it. They are fun cars to drive in that British sort of "bugs in your teeth" way. Big torquey 6 cylinder helps a lot. Common problem is that the differential mounting bolts like to tear out of the chassis and take some of the car's metal with it.(oh dear). So if you test drive one and you hear lots of heavy clunks back there, that's your two minute warning.
The famous 90 year-old lady car: Sounds like bullsh*t won out, as craigslist knocked that ad down. What was it?
"Matching Numbers" '69 Pickup: Well considering that there are no matching numbers to be found on a '69 Chevy Pickup, I'm not sure what the seller is babbling about here. He might mean that the engine # is correct for the year, and that the manifold and block and various little parts are date-coded all the same. But Chevy did not match the engine # to the VIN number in any way, so unless he has a factory build sheet, he's just blowin' smoke. Does anyone care if it's the date-correct 396? I kinda doubt that it matters but it doesn't hurt. Probably more of a sales incentive than an actual boost in value is my opinion.
69 Charger: Boy that thing is a rat...but it does have AC, which is a very cool option, no pun intended. Again, what's he talking about "matching"? Matching what? Without a build sheet, all he can say is that the engine and transmission are dated for a '69 car, that's about it. Oh, he might be able to show that the date of the engine precedes the date the car was built by a few days or a week. If the engine date is way before or way after the car was built, it doesn't belong in there.
Little rubber-bumpered piece of junk that it is...I dunno, maybe $4,000 is all the money. MG guys don't like 'em. This car needs an interior designer with a big straw hat to buy it.
has a big block under the hood, and from the looks of the carb intake under the towel, I'd guess a 4-bbl. So I guess that would narrow it down to a 383-4bbl or a 440-4bbl.
Comments
It's got 118k miles and until recently was my daily driver. I skid into a curb at ~5-10 mph, took it to my mechanic to find out if it's worth fixing, he "fixed" the car without my permission and forced me to pay $800 cash (no credit card because he said he was scared I would dispute the charge). Called cops (who was friends with mechanic, lucky me) who straight out told me he can't force the mechanic to do anything. Guess what? The car is worse than before.
I won't get into the story in an attempt to keep it simple. The car needs new struts, might as well put new springs on too, brakes are now dragging (was told said mechanic likely ripped the brake hose while getting a strut out, then replaced a brake hose with the wrong type, and because of this I have a brake that's dragging or something to that effect), an alignment, and new tires.
Having been forced to pay $800 in repairs on a $4000 car (and finding out I have to pay another $700-$1000 to fix what the previous mechanic broke/didn't fix) I'm a bit hesitant.
Should I:
1) Go to another mechanic and pay the $1000 to get all these fixed?
2) Pay an extra ~$400 and have performance struts/springs installed (Koni Yellow/Ground Controls)
3) Buy a new car (I've been in the market for a bit, trying to decide between a new Legacy 2.5i SE or costlier TSX) and dump the Civic for $3-$4k
4) Buy a new car and fix Civic myself over the summer (keep in mind I'm a newbie but willing to learn)
If I were in that situation I'd put in a complaint to the Better Business Bureau about the shoddy mechanic.
As for what to do with the car, I'd keep it (if you have space), buy a new car since you were in the market already, and fix this one up during the summer as a project. IF you get bored of it you can dump it anytime in as is condition.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Austin Texas used to be one of the worlds worst for auto repair ripoffs, and some of them still try it. But there were some well publisized cases here that made a lot of folks clean up their acts.
One of the classic cases was a large independent shop that did state inspections. They never saw a car that didn't need at least $50 worth of extra work. There were finally so many complaints that the DPS took an undercover car in perfect condition and dropped it off for an inspection. When they came back, the shop told them the fuel pump was leaking, headlight burned out, on and on. The violation was so flagrant that they were shut down immediately (not just inspection violations, but fraud and theft by deception) and the company finally filed bankruptcy and went away.
"possible runner" is never an encouraging term
'76 Pontiac Lemons -- looks to be in nice shape and styling ain't bad for the 70s. If you were a kid doing up his first car, you could put a crate engine in there with some modest guts and fix the suspension so you don't get seasick, could be a decent ride for under $7,500.
Mine has a few more options (power windows, power seat), but I like the color of this one better. I'd immediately lose those skirts, though!
realname-brand muscle carEuropean Performance and Styling - just like das Jermans!
Hey! ANY Pickup truck is a "real" pickup truck
Look: once a guy has to drive a mini-van, the details don't matter
lIf you MUST drive a Soccer-Mom-mobile
(Actually this gets included because of the seller's writing style) - My favorites:
I bought it recently for someone close, but for reasons not to be discussed here or elsewhere she is not getting it.
As a man I can't find the words to describe it......
the insane prices of muscle cars have made them all go up, even the amcs. If i'm not mistaken, an amc muscle car fetched big money at BJ this year.
edit: just checked, there was an AMX coupe that went across last year for $43k. But the last javelin was 2 years ago and it fetched $21k with the 360 engine.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
There was one of these in my home town.....
Here's a link to an AMC Muscle Car page
shouldn't there be an LR1 though? I mean, WHY name something the LR3 if you didn't plan to 2 versions to slot below it?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Pontiac "Lemons"?
I thought it was "Lemans", or is the seller trying to say something?
Or, maybe I'm getting old and my mind is slipp.... uh, what was I saying?
Wow, I can see how they lower and raise the suspension, but how did they achieve that color change on the sides?
"runs and drives great" "needs a gas tank"
"Carbs need to be rebuilt" = run away
without a clutch, it's just another Corolla
could be a fun beater
a beater for domestic lovers
rare 4-speed, eh?
some people would go for this
but I like this one better
Shiftymobile, defined
didn't know you could do that to a woodchuck
Almost makes me wanna call him and offer him a buck.
I like the 4 door chevy, lloks half decent for the money.
RX7 looks decent too.
The Benz diesel looks to be almost same color as my parent's 300D that they had.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
That Chevelle looks nice, depending on how the quality really is. Cheaper than a real 454SS no doubt.
Reading the list of features on that 560SEC almost makes me wanna laugh.
These dealers use some kind of antiquated database/feature menu to describe these cars:
"Power brakes, power steering, vanity mirrors, gauge cluster!!, reclining seats, rear defroster" :confuse:
Most cars had those as standard features for the past 20 years, especially a top of the line Benz!!
They can use the space they wasted on those features and describe something else about it.
Just my rant
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
Muscle cars are starting to drop back out of the strastosphere (they are still there, they just dont seem as bad). That Chevelle looks cool, if it were half that price I would be more interested.
The Prelude and Corolla SR5 are damned by lack of a clutch, and I think that Corolla is too new to be RWD, so it misses on two counts with the fast and furious crowd. The RX-7 if its not rusty would be fun. They have a buzzer at redline so you know you got there.
240D=68hp. I don't care if you have a 4 speed or a 5 speed or a 10 speed, glaciers move faster than that thing (and I've driven Vovlo 240s).
2004 Saab Aero -- oh, he thinks that after he's done all the mods that he still has a warranty? Yeah, sure.....
Nice to have a forum where everybody gets along, not that I would ever get into an argument in an Edmunds forum~
As far as Audi's go, I have always thought they were great cars to drive but nothing, and I mean NOTHING but trouble!
It all started with those first 100's. They indeed, had inboard disks that were a b***h to work on. To make it even sweeter, the engines would develop oil leaks and the oil would get on the brakes~
Oddball, lowline W111 with what looks like leather...should only have one carb though.
Hmmm, interesting that none of the pictures show the engine, and that the one picture shows a charger attached to the battery.
Just what you want to hear - "stops if you pump the brakes". Yow! :surprise:
Early 560SEC, at least the wheels are worth something
MGB GT
Sounds like he buried himself in this one
Tired 450 SLC
Riviera
Over his head on this Porsche
Old School Triumph
Definetly a project I'd want to invest in :P
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
As much as I like the MGB convertible, I think there are a number of other coupes I would rather have than the MGB-GT (240z, 2002)
The TR-7 isn't as interesting to me as the 2002 parked behind it, but apparently TR-7s are easy to motor swap and someone could figure out how to have a good time with it.
That 450 SLC is a money pit but might have good parts for a 450 SL.
The Riv needs new everything but looks like it has little rust, and I think you can get most of the body parts pretty cheaply through the restoration catalog places.
That Porsche lacks redeeming qualities other than the motor, and that might be questionable.
That early TR looks like it would be fun. Mechanically it is similar to an ox-cart with a lawnmower engine, so it couldn't be that hard.
This makes me miss California even more (of course, if I was there, after paying rent/mortgage, I wouldn't have money to play with projects anyway...)
once again ... seattle. arrrggggg...
the carb thing worries me, though. Is there another manifold available for swap with 2 carbs? maybe he meant a 2-barrel carb.(?)
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Wow, that SLC looks like it sat in Death Valley for 20 years.
Triumph looks like the pick of the list (not the TR7)
The MGB GT is definitely not worth restoring. You can buy nice ones for 1/3 the price of a TR3.
the only advantage of restoring an MGB rather than a TR3 is that you can buy any part you need for an MGB delivered UPS to your door next day....even an entire new BODY, in steel!
TR3s are a tough restoration. They are made up of a gazillion bolt on panels and it is really really tough to get them to all fit together once you've taken everything apart.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/car/281966070.html
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I love Sleepers like this
I don't know which title to use: "This car did belong to a 90 yr old lady", or "Please dont waste my time with [non-permissible content removed]. "
Does anybody REALLY want to drive a 36 HP car?
Rare TR-6?
I have always loved the look of the TR-6, but back in the day when I was driving my Alfa Spider, my friend was always repairing his TR-6 (and not driving it).
Do matching numbers really matter on an (not that) old pickup?
I'd rather have this matching numbers car (But I notice he doesn't say what engine)
TR6 -- don't know what's "rare" about it, but if it's as nice as the ad suggests, it's probably worth it. They are fun cars to drive in that British sort of "bugs in your teeth" way. Big torquey 6 cylinder helps a lot. Common problem is that the differential mounting bolts like to tear out of the chassis and take some of the car's metal with it.(oh dear). So if you test drive one and you hear lots of heavy clunks back there, that's your two minute warning.
The famous 90 year-old lady car: Sounds like bullsh*t won out, as craigslist knocked that ad down. What was it?
"Matching Numbers" '69 Pickup: Well considering that there are no matching numbers to be found on a '69 Chevy Pickup, I'm not sure what the seller is babbling about here. He might mean that the engine # is correct for the year, and that the manifold and block and various little parts are date-coded all the same. But Chevy did not match the engine # to the VIN number in any way, so unless he has a factory build sheet, he's just blowin' smoke. Does anyone care if it's the date-correct 396? I kinda doubt that it matters but it doesn't hurt. Probably more of a sales incentive than an actual boost in value is my opinion.
69 Charger: Boy that thing is a rat...but it does have AC, which is a very cool option, no pun intended. Again, what's he talking about "matching"? Matching what? Without a build sheet, all he can say is that the engine and transmission are dated for a '69 car, that's about it. Oh, he might be able to show that the date of the engine precedes the date the car was built by a few days or a week. If the engine date is way before or way after the car was built, it doesn't belong in there.
Seller says " I don't fit in it, so I'm selling it"
Immaculate, apparently. But no price on it. Wonder what an immaculate 1978 Midget is worth anyhow?