A "restoration paint job" is one of those paint jobs from a spray can that you can buy at Walmart, and stop rusting process as well as paint the color of your patio furniture.
Buy more spray cans if painting a car.
The brown Supra is indeed nice and reasonably priced.
The blue Supra's owner is indeed somking something. He didn't even list the correct number of cylinders. His car is worth $500 not $5000 if indeed it needs a head gasket.
well, it was fun while it lasted. The Catalina started up just fine at the mechanic's place, and got me home without incident. I did notice a few little things wrong though, such as the radio not working (just static) and the aftermarket temperature gauge not registering. Also, the fast idle wouldn't kick down.
I probably shouldn't have done this, but once I parked it in the garage, I shut it off in gear. I've done that with my truck a million times when the fast idle used to get stuck. Well, when I went to re-start the car, all I got was a couple clicks and some sparking from the positive terminal of the battery. At first, I though maybe it just got a hot spot on the starter, and that was stressing it out. But I just went out to the garage to try again, and I'm still just getting a click and an occasional spark. Oddly, when it clicks, it kills the lights, but the horn still works. And then after a minute or two, the lights will work again.
But, if nothing else, it sure did sound sweet while it was running! I swear it felt like it handled and rode better too, and just seemed tighter, somehow. I've got it on a trickle charger right now, and figure I'll see if it starts in the morning. Looks like we'll be heading back to the mechanic soon. :sick:
The battery's still pretty new...bought it in June or July of 2008. And yeah, the clamps are nice and tight. I was going to go out there and mess around with it some this morning, but not really in the mood! So I'll probably futz around with it some after work...give it a little more time on the trickle charger.
One possibility, I guess...even though the battery's pretty new, that car spent almost four months at the mechanic, and the car never really got run for very long. Just enough to start it, move it if it got in the way, maybe drive it around the block to test something out, etc. So maybe the battery just got run down? Might've had enough juice to start it to get me home last night, about 10.5 miles, but then not enough to start it back up when it was hot? Just a theory...would that be plausible?
FWIW, that car always was a little cranky when I'd try to start it hot.
Well, when I went to re-start the car, all I got was a couple clicks and some sparking from the positive terminal of the battery.
If the connections are tight, as you said they were, there should not be any sparking at either of the terminals.
Yes, lead-acid batteries can discharge over time when just sitting. I think putting it on the charger over night is the first thing to do. But, that would not explain the sparking.
Okay, I'm a dunce. This morning I went outside to start the truck and let it warm up. I forgot and left my cell phone in the convertible, so I went in the garage to get it. While I was in there I figured okay, let's give this sucker another try. Got a couple clicks, another spark, and then deadness.
Got out and checked the connection again. While the positive terminal was attached nice and tight to the battery post, the cable itself was loose, and could easily be pulled out from the terminal. I shoved it back in, turned the key, and the sucker fired up just like it was 1967 again!
I gotta admit last night, I was pretty pissed at the car. And it was getting cold and I was getting tired, so I didn't want to feel like messing with it. I had a clearer mind this morning I guess, and the answer came right to me. :shades:
I had a problem with my 1979 Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight Regency killing batteries. I put a brand-new AC-Delco battery in it three time and the next day, the battery would be dead. I though maybe they got a defective batch of batteries at the store from which I purchased them. They would replace each battery free - no questions asked.
I did finally discover what was happening. A portion of the insulation over the hood release cable was deteriorated and allowed the bare cable to rest one one of the terminals. I replaced the hood release cable and there was no longer any problem.
If your cables have the aftermarket clamps that are installed when the original clamp goes bad, may I suggest you replace the entire cable assembly with a new one that has the clamp molded on? I have seen more issues with those "replacement" clamps and really would only recommend them for emergency use, followed by a cable replacement. Not an expensive repair (especially compared to all you have had done!) and much more reliable.
FWIW, I have repaired two cars in the last couple of months where a brand new battery shorted internally. When this happens, you can't even jump start the car because the shorted battery will draw all the current. Turns the jumper cables into resistive heating elements!
I don't think the 66 Plymouth Sport Fury convertible is worth very much at all in that condition. Free might be good. They don't bring a lot of money even when looking good and running well. Just go buy a nice one for $12,000.
Ditto the Chevy Belair 2D -- a valuable car, yes, but man it's going to take you a ton of money to get there. I'd say you might break even on this one, but I kinda doubt it.
The Cougar might be worth fixing up, with limitations.
Have a nice, rare, project car for sale with clear title. 1967 MGB. Chrome bumpers, wire wheels, aluminum hood, steel dash car. Runs good, has little surface rust, floors have been redone, seats recovered, etc... Needs to have clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder replaced as well as the rear brakes. I am including the new parts to do this (cost $300.00). Just don't have the time for this car like I thought. Great deal for someone as these cars are getting scarce.
Well money-wise it's probably a marginal choice for restoration, but I'd restore it because it's a '67, which is a great year for an MGB. So yeah, I vote yes on this one because of the model year.
HOWEVER, this is a unibody car, so if the rust proves more serious than the ad suggests, all bets are off, especially if the rust is in the area of the suspension anchoring points.
Actually when I used to say "you can buy any part you want for an MGB" I wasn't kidding.
Here's my '67 Catalina's album with some pics taken today. More recent pics are at the beginning, older ones further through. Other than the new wheels and tires, I guess you really can't see much as far as "before" and "after" go. The windshield is new, as is the top and all the trim pieces, but that doesn't show up so noticeably in the pics.
I think it's interesting how, as big as this car is, the new 15" rally wheels, IMO at least, make it look smaller than when it had the 14" steel wheels with hubcaps. I can't imagine someone putting blingy 22's on a car like this, but I'm sure it has been done. :surprise:
Before long you'll be getting the DeSoto roadworthy...
Fintail - that's quite a collection. I saw an old wreck of a Stanley Steamer at an auction in New Hampshire ages ago. THe guy taht bought it was going to just cover it and use it to pay his daughter's college education. HIs daughter was three. By now that either worked out or didn't.
Love the fintail. I could see how one could get addicted to one.
Meanwhile, well it may be in great shape but it's still a Gremlin....
2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
Andre, that is one nice looking Catalina. Hard to believe that it's over 40 years old.
I think keeping the 'period' wheels is a nice touch ... on a classic like that, I wouldn't bling it out at all.
Probably makes more sense to put the 22's onto the Intrepid. NOT!!
On a related note, I've been thinking about getting some new wheels for the L300. The factory wheels were the chrome plated option, which, over the past 6 years, have become stained with brake dust (damn soft rotors and pads!). I think I'll stick with the original size (16x7), since I just got new tires 10,000 miles ago.
These are the ones I'm thinking of ...
... of all the 16" wheels from Tire Rack, these weigh the least (17.5 lbs each). The heaviest are over 22 lbs each - hard to believe that there is a 5 pound difference ... that's got to hurt the fuel economy.
Yeah, wheel weights are nuts sometimes. I got a set of the JDM-option 6-spoke 16" S2000 wheels last year, and they took 4+ pounds off each corner. The stockers were 16/17 pounds.
Of those 4, I like the Sentra SE-R, about as much fun as you can have in a four door for under $10k..
I always like the Protege5, I never thought of auto crossing one. Would the center of gravity being so high hurt the handling over a regular Protege? One thing I have noticed about wagon is they are usually cheaper than the sedan version. I noticed it with my Mazda6 wagon at trade in.
Andre, your love of these big beasts is contagious. I saw this link title on CL , and thought about taking a look at it. Then reality set in and I realized my garage is about 2 feet to short for it.
I had the front calipers replaced in March of '06, and the front rotors are new as of last October - all new pads put on at the same time. The L has 4 wheel disks, so I don't really know how good the rear calipers and rotors look - I discovered the brake dust issue not long after I bought the car.
Guess I have something to save my pennies for. I got a new stereo head unit put in last year so I can plug in my iPod, and I bought a GPS system a few weeks ago, so I won't be jonesing for that in a new car.
Just need to have a couple of small mechanical issues attended to, and I should be good for another 10-20K miles. I figure a few hundred or a thousand bucks to upgrade my ride beats spending $15-25K for a new one.
Well, I don't believe the COG changes much. I'm not sure. I guess it depends on the weight. For instance, I remember when the WRX first came out, the wagon version was only something like ~100 lbs heavier. So it is safe to assume that you are only gaining ~100 lbs over the rear axle and above the COG. Doesn't seem like much in a 3k-lb car.
Wagons are odd. I'd say your statement is often true, but if I'm not mistaken, the P5 is worth more than a comparable Protege, and the same goes for the mazda3 hatch vs sedan. Oh, and that also goes for V70s and Legacys.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
RE: Cobra Kit Car --- boy, he really threw the parts catalog at that one, didn't he? A little restraint would have gone a long way towards a much better-looking project.
63 Ford Galaxie -- the engine could be worth more than the car!
Well after either losing my lunch, shielding my eyes, or just shaking my head and saying Why, Why?-- I do have a few hopefully constructive comments:
1. 56 Chevy Truck -- don't ever try to sell a car in primer, no matter what it is, no matter how good it is. This never works. Isn't Primer the color of the state flag in Arkansas?
2. 55 Dodge PU -- weird paint job aside, not a bad truck for the money. Seems like he did a nice job.
3. 73 Mustang -- well it looks like $30K ++ in mods still can't turn a frog into a prince. Would that he put this money into an earlier Mustang fastback instead of a '73, the poster child for Malformed Mustangs. Tsk Tsk, the man's going to take a beating here.
4. 76 Lincoln Mark Whatever -- think of all the teapots one could make out of this monstrosity. I think I've seen these on Army artillery ranges (to simulate T-34 tanks).
5. '75 Malibu -- hey for $2500 you could have a pizza or paper route and do okay paying it off. Not bad for the money, but a classic----NOT in our lifetimes (and that includes you infants on line tonight).
I suppose for 4 grand you can't get too hurt Those 16V cars have yet to appreciate at all after 20 years...I'd guess they will stay down for a while longer.
I'm surprised it didn't bid higher. I've seen the 16V go for $10,000...alas in more prosperous times. The price guides started listing them as collectibles years ago and the American collectors have consistently failed to notice.
Even in the European publications I sometimes receive, I haven't noticed any big inflation in 16V prices. The only ones with huge price tags are the Evo models. They won't depreciate to nothing, but really pristine cars seem to have topped out at about that 10K figure you mention. Maybe they won't go up much, but they shouldn't devalue to nothing. I see the same thing coming for earlier AMG cars (C36/43 E55). They are still depreciating, but it's going to bottom out, as it has for the W124 500E/E500.
Speaking of prices, in the current Classic & Sportscar, a dealer has a pristine 30K mile lowline fintail for sale - £19950!
Well if you wanted the best fintail in the world for your collection, you know where to go for it. Let the market decide what such a car is worth, right?
Some cars will never finish "bottoming out". They'll hit bottom and just stay there, for one reason or another. The problem with the *early* AMG cars is that they are hideous IMO, almost a parody. Very few people wish to be seen in them, no matter how much fun they might be to drive. Would YOU drive a pink Miata? Not me. The early AMG cars remind me of what a '64 Cadillac would look like with racing strips and spoilers.
In Europe I could see a mint fintail bringing $20K, but it needs to be a 220SE. This one was a lowly 190. MB Classic Center sold off a couple of mint 220SEs a few years ago, I think they brought about €20000 apiece, but of course coming from that seller, they were top class cars.
When I say early AMGs, I mean regular production cars beginning in 1995 or so. The vintage ones will only be appreciated by those with a sympathy for 80s excess. On that, I must say a widebody 6-litre SEC is very cool.
yes I was referring to very old AMG cars with the garish styling packages of the 80s.
I like the 220SEs as they are far more practical for modern roads and conditions. It makes sense that the Germans would pay more than we would, as the cars are far more part of their heritage than ours. Possible the fintail represents the first inklings of real post-war prosperity for Germany. They were transition cars into the global market for Benz, I think, breaking away with marketing through Studebaker, creating more lavish 300 series cars, and finally giving way to the highly successful cars of 1968 in N.A.
I think in Germany a fintail is something akin to a (sometimes sinister version of a) 57 Chevy - most seem to know what they are and the time they represent. I agree with your assessment - they represent a big leap in postwar prosperity, the fruits of 15 years of hard rebuilding labor were being realized.
It does amuse me that the one time MB bowed to an American styling trend, it became passe within 2 years or so...but MB kept it alive for many years after.
If my car wasn't a 220SE, I don't know if I would enjoy it so much. I know of no other period car that runs so consistently well, and starts so easily after being idle for several weeks. Keep the system clean, and that old FI is really a wonder.
Keep in mind that Benz had reliable mechanical fuel injection in production cars in the 1950s, when the Americans were using carburetors not at all different from those in 1925 (only they were downdraft rather than updraft).
Nothing like having all your car factories bombed into a Shake 'n Bake bag to get you to start all over technologically.
"Nothing like having all your car factories bombed into a Shake 'n Bake bag to get you to start all over technologically. "
Daimler Benz had an earlier start than that, even. Those ME-109s (and lots of other German warplanes) used DB-601 engines (that's DB for Daimler Benz). Before WWII DB figured out that fuel injection was the way to go, instead of carbs, so they had all that technology on file once car building. One reason the Hurricanes and Spitfires had to roll before diving was their carbs. Now you've opened up my closet of useless info...
The guy put every gee-gaw imaginable on the car. You gotta know when to stop decorating the birthday cake! Not sure I'd call the Cobra "pretty" as much as "handsome in a muscular way". It's a bit brutish. The original Bristol Ace was cleaner IMO.
I suspect pioneering efforts by DB into putting diesel vehicles into mass market consumption during the 30s didn't hurt either....I know diesel injection isn't directly the same as mechanical fuel injection, but some of the know how must be relatable
Comments
Buy more spray cans if painting a car.
The brown Supra is indeed nice and reasonably priced.
The blue Supra's owner is indeed somking something. He didn't even list the correct number of cylinders. His car is worth $500 not $5000 if indeed it needs a head gasket.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
the wife said 'look at it again'.
I probably shouldn't have done this, but once I parked it in the garage, I shut it off in gear. I've done that with my truck a million times when the fast idle used to get stuck. Well, when I went to re-start the car, all I got was a couple clicks and some sparking from the positive terminal of the battery. At first, I though maybe it just got a hot spot on the starter, and that was stressing it out. But I just went out to the garage to try again, and I'm still just getting a click and an occasional spark. Oddly, when it clicks, it kills the lights, but the horn still works. And then after a minute or two, the lights will work again.
But, if nothing else, it sure did sound sweet while it was running! I swear it felt like it handled and rode better too, and just seemed tighter, somehow. I've got it on a trickle charger right now, and figure I'll see if it starts in the morning. Looks like we'll be heading back to the mechanic soon. :sick:
One possibility, I guess...even though the battery's pretty new, that car spent almost four months at the mechanic, and the car never really got run for very long. Just enough to start it, move it if it got in the way, maybe drive it around the block to test something out, etc. So maybe the battery just got run down? Might've had enough juice to start it to get me home last night, about 10.5 miles, but then not enough to start it back up when it was hot? Just a theory...would that be plausible?
FWIW, that car always was a little cranky when I'd try to start it hot.
If the connections are tight, as you said they were, there should not be any sparking at either of the terminals.
Yes, lead-acid batteries can discharge over time when just sitting. I think putting it on the charger over night is the first thing to do. But, that would not explain the sparking.
Got out and checked the connection again. While the positive terminal was attached nice and tight to the battery post, the cable itself was loose, and could easily be pulled out from the terminal. I shoved it back in, turned the key, and the sucker fired up just like it was 1967 again!
I gotta admit last night, I was pretty pissed at the car. And it was getting cold and I was getting tired, so I didn't want to feel like messing with it. I had a clearer mind this morning I guess, and the answer came right to me. :shades:
That's just the sort of thing that being cold and tired can make one miss. Glad it was an easy fix.
Now about that 75 Buick....
I did finally discover what was happening. A portion of the insulation over the hood release cable was deteriorated and allowed the bare cable to rest one one of the terminals. I replaced the hood release cable and there was no longer any problem.
FWIW, I have repaired two cars in the last couple of months where a brand new battery shorted internally. When this happens, you can't even jump start the car because the shorted battery will draw all the current. Turns the jumper cables into resistive heating elements!
If the car tends to act up when trying to restart it while hot, there is a good possibility that your starter is the culprit there.
Sounds like the antenna is not plugged in.
The easiest way to get rid of temptation is to yield to it....
I don't think the 66 Plymouth Sport Fury convertible is worth very much at all in that condition. Free might be good. They don't bring a lot of money even when looking good and running well. Just go buy a nice one for $12,000.
Ditto the Chevy Belair 2D -- a valuable car, yes, but man it's going to take you a ton of money to get there. I'd say you might break even on this one, but I kinda doubt it.
The Cougar might be worth fixing up, with limitations.
In case we lose it again.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1004617953.html
VINTAGE 1967 MGB FOR SALE - $2300
Have a nice, rare, project car for sale with clear title. 1967 MGB. Chrome bumpers, wire wheels, aluminum hood, steel dash car. Runs good, has little surface rust, floors have been redone, seats recovered, etc... Needs to have clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder replaced as well as the rear brakes. I am including the new parts to do this (cost $300.00). Just don't have the time for this car like I thought. Great deal for someone as these cars are getting scarce.
HOWEVER, this is a unibody car, so if the rust proves more serious than the ad suggests, all bets are off, especially if the rust is in the area of the suspension anchoring points.
Actually when I used to say "you can buy any part you want for an MGB" I wasn't kidding.
Now you can order entire bodies for the car.
I think it's interesting how, as big as this car is, the new 15" rally wheels, IMO at least, make it look smaller than when it had the 14" steel wheels with hubcaps. I can't imagine someone putting blingy 22's on a car like this, but I'm sure it has been done. :surprise:
Before long you'll be getting the DeSoto roadworthy...
Fintail - that's quite a collection. I saw an old wreck of a Stanley Steamer at an auction in New Hampshire ages ago. THe guy taht bought it was going to just cover it and use it to pay his daughter's college education. HIs daughter was three. By now that either worked out or didn't.
Love the fintail. I could see how one could get addicted to one.
Meanwhile, well it may be in great shape but it's still a Gremlin....
I think keeping the 'period' wheels is a nice touch ... on a classic like that, I wouldn't bling it out at all.
Probably makes more sense to put the 22's onto the Intrepid. NOT!!
On a related note, I've been thinking about getting some new wheels for the L300. The factory wheels were the chrome plated option, which, over the past 6 years, have become stained with brake dust (damn soft rotors and pads!). I think I'll stick with the original size (16x7), since I just got new tires 10,000 miles ago.
These are the ones I'm thinking of ...
... of all the 16" wheels from Tire Rack, these weigh the least (17.5 lbs each). The heaviest are over 22 lbs each - hard to believe that there is a 5 pound difference ... that's got to hurt the fuel economy.
wondering what fintail thinks of this. Its the evil twin of the 2.6 190E I owned briefly.
I keep thinking I'll wind up with one of these. Can't beat the prices.
Although this would be cooler/rarer.
A bit underpowered, but at least I could carry my slicks to the autoX.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have always liked the Protege 5, but for a long trip, I found the ride a bit harsh.
I always like the Protege5, I never thought of auto crossing one. Would the center of gravity being so high hurt the handling over a regular Protege? One thing I have noticed about wagon is they are usually cheaper than the sedan version. I noticed it with my Mazda6 wagon at trade in.
Andre, your love of these big beasts is contagious. I saw this link title on CL , and thought about taking a look at it. Then reality set in and I realized my garage is about 2 feet to short for it.
I had the front calipers replaced in March of '06, and the front rotors are new as of last October - all new pads put on at the same time. The L has 4 wheel disks, so I don't really know how good the rear calipers and rotors look - I discovered the brake dust issue not long after I bought the car.
Guess I have something to save my pennies for. I got a new stereo head unit put in last year so I can plug in my iPod, and I bought a GPS system a few weeks ago, so I won't be jonesing for that in a new car.
Just need to have a couple of small mechanical issues attended to, and I should be good for another 10-20K miles. I figure a few hundred or a thousand bucks to upgrade my ride beats spending $15-25K for a new one.
Thanks, oregonboy.
Here is the 190E.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Wagons are odd. I'd say your statement is often true, but if I'm not mistaken, the P5 is worth more than a comparable Protege, and the same goes for the mazda3 hatch vs sedan. Oh, and that also goes for V70s and Legacys.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
what kind of other bucket is this?
not a classic cadi
bft?
garage sale #1
garage sale #2
garage sale #3
police interceptor?
some more:
chevy f100?
art deco
t-rex mustang
better t-rex
actually kind of nice?
been for sale forever
definition of yuck!
63 Ford Galaxie -- the engine could be worth more than the car!
Well after either losing my lunch, shielding my eyes, or just shaking my head and saying Why, Why?-- I do have a few hopefully constructive comments:
1. 56 Chevy Truck -- don't ever try to sell a car in primer, no matter what it is, no matter how good it is. This never works. Isn't Primer the color of the state flag in Arkansas?
2. 55 Dodge PU -- weird paint job aside, not a bad truck for the money. Seems like he did a nice job.
3. 73 Mustang -- well it looks like $30K ++ in mods still can't turn a frog into a prince. Would that he put this money into an earlier Mustang fastback instead of a '73, the poster child for Malformed Mustangs. Tsk Tsk, the man's going to take a beating here.
4. 76 Lincoln Mark Whatever -- think of all the teapots one could make out of this monstrosity. I think I've seen these on Army artillery ranges (to simulate T-34 tanks).
5. '75 Malibu -- hey for $2500 you could have a pizza or paper route and do okay paying it off. Not bad for the money, but a classic----NOT in our lifetimes (and that includes you infants on line tonight).
maybe i should have posted this too. :sick:
maalox
The Monte looks nice, but for that money I'd expect it to be a SS 454 or something.
Speaking of prices, in the current Classic & Sportscar, a dealer has a pristine 30K mile lowline fintail for sale - £19950!
Some cars will never finish "bottoming out". They'll hit bottom and just stay there, for one reason or another. The problem with the *early* AMG cars is that they are hideous IMO, almost a parody. Very few people wish to be seen in them, no matter how much fun they might be to drive. Would YOU drive a pink Miata? Not me. The early AMG cars remind me of what a '64 Cadillac would look like with racing strips and spoilers.
When I say early AMGs, I mean regular production cars beginning in 1995 or so. The vintage ones will only be appreciated by those with a sympathy for 80s excess. On that, I must say a widebody 6-litre SEC is very cool.
I like the 220SEs as they are far more practical for modern roads and conditions. It makes sense that the Germans would pay more than we would, as the cars are far more part of their heritage than ours. Possible the fintail represents the first inklings of real post-war prosperity for Germany. They were transition cars into the global market for Benz, I think, breaking away with marketing through Studebaker, creating more lavish 300 series cars, and finally giving way to the highly successful cars of 1968 in N.A.
It does amuse me that the one time MB bowed to an American styling trend, it became passe within 2 years or so...but MB kept it alive for many years after.
If my car wasn't a 220SE, I don't know if I would enjoy it so much. I know of no other period car that runs so consistently well, and starts so easily after being idle for several weeks. Keep the system clean, and that old FI is really a wonder.
Nothing like having all your car factories bombed into a Shake 'n Bake bag to get you to start all over technologically.
Daimler Benz had an earlier start than that, even. Those ME-109s (and lots of other German warplanes) used DB-601 engines (that's DB for Daimler Benz). Before WWII DB figured out that fuel injection was the way to go, instead of carbs, so they had all that technology on file once car building. One reason the Hurricanes and Spitfires had to roll before diving was their carbs. Now you've opened up my closet of useless info...
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S