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That said, it was a great little motor, torquey and revvy at the same time. I put about 25k miles on a bon e stock '93 SE-R a couple of years ago and it was a lot of fun.
-Jason
Olds 88 - pictures in the dark encourage high bids, he thinks
Andre should buy this to go with the Crown Vic General Lee - Unending fun for a couple of thousand $.
Probably the champion in the overbuilt category is the legendary RB26DETT from the Skyline GT-R. "Officially" rated at 276hp and running more like 325-350hp stock, it can run up to 500-600hp on the stock internals and modified versions have hit 1000hp on a motor that displaces about 157 c.i. That performance isn't free; the RB weighs about as much as a Chevy small block.
The only data you can rely on is the business end of a dyno and the odometer readings of these cars as they enter the junkyard. All the rest is just moonshine talk over a couple of beers if you ask me :P
Of course, with dumb old 5 digit odometers, it'd be tough.
The first car I had with a 6-digit odometer was my '88 LeBaron...oddly the LEAST likely of the cars I've had to need a 6th digit!
One of my friends has a sister with a '92 or '93 Sable that her mother handed down to her. They don't know how many miles it has because it's only a 5-digit. I thought by that time most cars had gone to a 6-digit?
Once upon a time, wasn't it common to reset the odometer when a new engine was put in a car? I'm thinking like in the 40's or 50's, or before odometer tampering was considered a crime.
Popular Mechanics, or one of those old magazines, did a dyno test of a Dodge Dart GTS with the 340, an Olds (can't remember if it was a 4-4-2 or a fullsize) and some Ford engine. It was for one of those articles where they were talking about how horsepower wasn't necessarily all it was cracked up to be.
Anyway, the 340 came out the "truest". Something like 240 hp at the wheels, or around 88%. I think the Ford came in at 75% and the Olds was really bad, at like 60%.
Supposedly, the old 340, while advertised at 275 hp really put out more like 300.
Another interesting tidbit...I remember reading an article in C&D or MT, where they tested the new 5.7 Mopar Hemi by the same standards the old 426 was, and hp came out about the same...425. I wonder what that SRT-8 6.1 would gross out at? :surprise:
You can in fact dial in any HP results you want. I could show you a 400HP dyno slip from a Toyota Echo----easy to do.
MILEAGES: Well there IS data that says that the average lifespan of a junked car in America is something like 11 years...of course this includes accidents, etc. so you might say "no fair".
But I say "fair" because when someone says that he intends to drive his car 400K I always remind him that statistically it is very unlikely he will get there---darn near impossible.....due to accidents, rust and other factors that have nothing to do with the "overbuilt" engine or "rugged driveline" BLAH BLAH BLAH.
I will also testify here in Edmunds Car Court that I swear that in 25 years of appraising cars, I have never once verified a claim of over 300K on an original untouched engine.
This isn't to say I don't believe it possible, but since I've never seen it (verified) I suspect it is WAY more rare than most people think it is.
What disqualifies an engine from being original? Valve job? Timing chain? Or is it a full rebuild?
It's the old "George Washington's Original Axe" joke---first we replaced the head and later we replaced the handle.
I've done quite a bit of reading up on engine longevity, and most engineers seem to agree that about 175K-225K are the realistic design limits for most modern engines, after which time they might be "running" in a fashion but not really up to snuff...
The key to keeping a car running for many many miles (regardless of age) is maintenance, and that will often times mean more work than just oil and the occasional belt. Too often these days people think that they should only have to gas it and go, and occasionally take it to a Jiffy Lube. The moment they start having problems with the car it is the manufacturer's fault and they dump the car for something new.
It's all a balance of course, but $1500 a year on maintenance for a car you own outright is a heck of a lot cheaper than a new car and once you've kept a daily driver for more than 5 years, resale should not even be taken into consideration any more because you've fully depreciated it in a practical sense and anything you get off a sale is basically just salvage on it - a final bonus, if you will. I often hear people say, "I have a $2,500 repair on this car that is only worth $3,500, so I'm not going to do it." My response is, "Well, assuming you do that $2,500 repair, how long do you plan to keep it after that? Do you think you will have another $2,500 repair in six months to a year?" $2,500 doesn't buy much car on the 'new' market, so if such a repair is performed and the owner gets another 2-3 years out of it with only "normal maintenance," that's money in the bank right there and you've saved more than you would have made by selling the car now without performing the repair.
As far as accidents.... well, you cannot predict them, but you can plan for them. Obviously on a $3,500 car, it doesn't take much to total it, but it might take more than that to keep it from running if you had no other choice.
Here's how to get that 400 HP Echo you've always wanted!
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0402tur_punkdyno/
So anyway, if you are laying out money for speed equipment, keep an eye on the dyno operator is my advice. Or if you're paying for a car with a certain HP claim, do your own dyno testing on it.
I've seen too much of this nonsense...
9 ways to look rich but live cheap
Buy classics. At first this sounds like an expensive move; classics always cost more. But for certain purchases, spending more may be a better investment in the long run. “I decided to buy a five-year-old BMW this year,” says Sandy deNicolais, former fashion and beauty editor of Women’s Day. “The payments for a brand-new Honda were the same. But in five years, that Honda won’t be worth as much as my BMW. The BMW will last longer, it’s higher quality, it’s got more style.”
Would a shift kit improve your hp at the wheels, or does it just make more effective use of the hp that's available?
If she had paid cash for a very low miles 5 year old Bimmer (now well out of warranty) that might be one thing but to finance an old BMW, that's pretty reckless IMO.
As for "investment", the day the acquisition of an old BMW sedan becomes an investment, let me know...
Also she has made a fatal flaw....In five years, the new Honda might not be worth as much as her BMW is worth NOW, but unfortunately, in five years HER five year old BMW will be ten years old---LOL!
Price of a 10 year old 3 Series Bimmer---maybe $6,000.
Price of a 5 year old Honda Accord LX V-6 sedan...about $10,000
So yeah, she's wrong...by about 80%...and we are presuming the BMW will run without repairs for the next five years.
This is BADDDDDD advice.......
I think the whole "opening" an engine requirement to high mileage is too strict. Some engines are supposed to be opened for timing chains/belts and valve adjustments etc as part of maintenance.
This is why I said I can never verify high mileage claims. Guy claims "350K" but then you find out he blew a head gasket, cracked the original head, etc. ...or did a ring and valve job because it was puking oil. None of this counts as an untouched engine in my book. Major failure happened.
Old cars are a crap shoot...I've made out on some, got creamed on others...the point is...you never know what's going to happen. And on an old German car, when and if "it" happens, that "it" is going to hurt and demolish the entire financial equation.
You know, old cars are a nice hobby, not an investment. I'm more than happy to sell the car for somewhere near the price I paid after a couple of years. Miles used up are worth money to me after all
"old cars are a nice hobby, not an investment. "
Exactly...that's why I have the fintail...I'm not seeking profit, I just like a fun toy, and as it hasn't been in daily service for several years, all I really pay for is basic maintenance, as it is reliable.
Okay, then I almost made it with a '88 Sentra; popped the head gasket at 296k but it had been wheezing a while before that. I think the only decent candidates for the Shiftright 300k Club are late-80s Civics, Accords, and Sentras that spent the overwhelming majority of their life in 5th gear. I wonder if the computer keeps a lifetime rpm counter?
Shifty, if you're feeling magnanimous, can you make up some numbers what new tie rods and ball joints would run, and probably new bushings where applicable and whatever that car uses as "shocks"... I don't know what that suspension looks like, I ain't lookin' with 1/2 a foot of snow on the ground. It is awfully loose going over bumps, and the steering is a pretty clunky affair.
Rust-free former CA car, 207k miles, new low price $700. "Runs good", as they say around here.
Whaddayathink?
-Mathias
-Mathias
Just buy it. As noted, you could probably let it sit in the garage until spring, do some DIY clean up, and turn a profit.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Vertical depreciation curve
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
One of my neighbors has a first-gen 750iL, not sure what year, but probably about the same. It's his main family car (there other is an old Saturn SL, go figure), it replaced an early '80s V8 Dodge pickup; so the guy is a bit, um, eccentric in his vehicle choices. Sad thing, the Bimmer probably uses about as much gas as the Dodge truck, but costs about five times as much to repair (and has five times as many things to go wrong).
Sadly, a $500 Alfa that's probably worth $500.
I see those Alfas around here for similar money and in similar condition. Kind of awkward, those sedans will never appreciate.
what can i say? i'm a sucker for alfas.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
BMW 750 -- the human mind who has not been to this place cannot even comprehend the repair costs on this car. You would say "NO WAY"...your jaw would hit the floor with a resounding clunk. You would cry robbery! this is pornographic!....but no one can hear you scream....
Anyway, the ultimate project car. It's at the local Red Cross resale lot (they have a retail lot near me, and advertise in the freebie weekly car paper).
1984 Porsche 944. Black. Donor reports car ran when parked 3 years ago? Tow away condition. $150.
No pictures in these ads, but they do tend to be brutally honest.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
That's why i said, if its a runner, $500 could be well spent. Heck of alot of fun for $500, IMHO.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I guess "tow away condition" implies nothing more than the car might roll enough to be winched onto a flatbed.
Or let the local fire department practice the jaws of life on a nicer than usual car.
Wonder what my wife would do to me if I brought this puppy home? I could tell me some that if he can get it running he can have it for when he gets his license...
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.