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Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • hot_rodhot_rod Posts: 13
    I took mine in one day for the gas tank problem and I wasn't there for an hour and they told me that they were ordering my gas tank that day (May 20th) and it was in on May 30th. It only took about 4 hours to replace the radio and the gas tank. I hope everything works out.
  • cmnottcmnott Posts: 200
    I got rid of the shifter book squeak! :shades:

    The leather, or whatever that material is, boot, was simply twisted. First I turned the shifter itself into this odd angle which straightebed out the stitches. That got rid of the squeak but the shifter was now facing the passenger seat, so I moved the shift boot instead and now happy days!

    Now, just the aluminum trip and I will be 100% happy!

    I am surprised that cars are being impounded by the dealers for the gas tank fix. I simply drove mine until it came in. Yes, it was annoying to fill up but it is better than not having thecar at all. I can't understand why the dealer simply didn't say "we will call you once the tank comes in".
  • snakerbillsnakerbill Posts: 272
    Hey everybody, it is not the RIDE, but the reliability issue which has me upset with Ford, and why I mentioned the Accord in the first place. The Accord was the best compromise car I could find that had a good repair record. I would really rather have a Mustang GT or other performance car, but I will not spend my money on a car that needs as many repairs as the 05 GT and V6 Mustangs. I guess some people have other priorities, but reliability is number one with me. As to the ride quality of the GT which I refused to take, I found the guy who finally bought that car, and he had to have the entire rear axle assembly replaced, and he told me that if he had known the trouble he would have with that car he would not have taken it either, but, as there were very few GTs for sale around here, he took the car even though he also thought that there was something wrong with the rear end. Also, I did look at the G35, and the dealer wanted way way too much for that car. The RX8 was another car I considered, but it too has too many problems. I also looked at the S2000 Honda, but it was not available with an automatic trans, so I bought the Accord at a really good price, and as I have stated before, it has served its purpose (waiting for an 06 fixed car), and will not cost me an arm and a leg when I trade it for a car I REALLY want. I am retired, and I travel all over the USA, and I do not want a car that will have a problem getting me to California or elsewhere,. or stranding me in the middle of the desert. I buy a new car every year, and I usually put upwards of fifty thousand miles in that year, so again, reliability is the main issue with me. Over the years, I have owned more cars than I can remember, from a Porsche 356C to a Volvo Pl800, to a Focus SVT and I hope to continue doing so for the rest of my life. In the last ten years, I have only bought automatic coupes, as I gave up shifting when the automatics became so efficient.If anyone remembers, when the CHP bid for patrol cars they took the automatic Z28 over the stick version because they tested both and the automatic was more reliable, more consistent,and faster that the stick. This fact is a matter of public record if some of you find that hard to believe check it out. Five six and seven speed automatics are the future. However, front wheel drive leaves a lot to be desired, and is the worst feature of the Accord. The only front wheel drive car that impressed me was the SVT Focus, but of course, it had no power to speak of, but it rode and handled like a champ, and amazeing enough it never needed to return to the dealer for anything except oil changes. It was a second car which I used around town until someone offered me so much for it that I couldnt refuse to sell it. I got it at a fire sale price, and if it had an automatic, I probably would still have it, but I really had no interest in the standard trans, and I only bought it for an investment. I paid 11,000 for it brand new after Ford discontinued it, and sold it for 16000 six months later, but It only had 6000 miles on the odo., and was in like new condition. I wish I would have kept it.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    so I bought the Accord ..., and will not cost me an arm and a leg when I trade it for a car I REALLY want.

    Dream on! My other half has an '04 Accord EX V6 that she bought straight off the delivery truck with only 2 miles on the odometer. She REALLY wanted the Pilot. We went back just a couple of weeks later because she wanted to trade "up" to the Pilot. The car was only a few weeks old and still spotless (hadn't even had its first washing). She was already $4K upside down in it! And this was at the SAME Honda dealership she bought it from. So don't believe the hype about Hondas not having the same depreciation as everybody else. You're going to get thoroughly raked over the coals when you try to trade it for an '06 Mustang. You might as well change your name to Kindling.

    I won't get into the reliability problems we've had with that same Accord. But, as you said, it serves its purpose.
  • snakerbillsnakerbill Posts: 272
    Not to deflate your baloon, but one cannot be upside down in a car they paid cash for. I traded an o4 Accord EX V6 Coupe for an 05 EX V6 coupe, and it cost me 2400 dollars plus TTL. I had 53, 000 miles on the 04. You do the math on how much it cost me per mile to drive it those 53000 miles. The car was always garaged, and it was in perfect cosmetic condition, and it had new tires. I admit that I got a rather large discount on the 05 Coupe, but still Hondas have greater residuals than most other cars. If one finances a car expect to be upside down due to the finance charges and other costs. I would rather buy a car I could afford rather than a super car that I have to finance. I started out with a 200 dollar car and kept trading up and adding money every time until I walked into the dealer and bought a car for cash. I have never financed any car I have had. but I guess very few people would drive the junkers I did until I got to the point where I paid cash. Cash deals are always the best in every way. You own the damn thing from the first minute.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Either way you're still gonna lose money. They aren't going to give you what you paid for it. Plus you're going to have to make up the difference out of your pocket for the Mustang. So it doesn't matter if you paid cash for it or not, the situation is still the same.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 12,711
    I've had both the RX8 and the Mustang GT. I know what each represents. As such, I was pleased with both (until someone rear ended my RX8). They both did exactly what I've bought them to do and have done so with flying colors.

    Maybe it's just me, but if I was looking for a hi-po performance car, the Accord just wouldn't cut it. I doubt I would have even cross shopped them.

    But, if you like yours, that's all that matters.

    This is the first time I've heard the Mustang was unreliable.

    Regarding the "guy" who bought the Mustang you ordered, what dealership was this? They'll allow you to give the name (just not salespeople) of the dealership here at Edmunds.

    I'm a bit perplexed why Ford would replace a whole rear end assembly. I can see them replacing the shocks, but the whole assembly (and all of its components) were bad?
    2019 Kia Stinger GT2
  • snakerbillsnakerbill Posts: 272
    A car is a consumable. It costs money to drive every mile. Use the tenth rule to figure how much each mile should cost. i.e. If you paid 25,000 for your car, .25 cents would be the per mile cost. If you put 53.000 miles on the car deduct that number from what you get in trade. Add the two numbers together, deduct the answer from the price you paid for the car, and that number is the part of the car which you used up. Remember that the IRS allows 36 cents per mile on your tax liability so the tenth rule is really on the low side of the cost of driving. Would you expect to get your money back from a Hamburger you ate? I would say that the residual is very low.. Also, if you really try, you can get some great deals on a new car, and if you take the time to detail the trade, getting better than book is a real possibility. Also, some cars, Hondas in particular really do have better trade values than most other cars. This is a fact supported by many auto publications, and is not just my view. If you or anyone allows the dealers to steal your trade, I would say that is your fault. Know what your car is really worth before you start any deal. Pay cash, and you have a cleaner deal to work with, and the dealer has one less way to screw you around. I found a buyer for my trade and did an in and out with the Honda dealer. You can do the same. I also bought the new car five hundred dollars into the holdback. Add it all together and I think I did not pay too much. If you try to trade a new car with very few miles on it, you are going to get the short end of the stick. The only way to get even part of your money back is to use the car up in terms of its mileage. If you are lucky, at some point in the cars life you will be driving it for free.
  • paulctpaulct Posts: 16
    I just got my GT convertible and ordered the Pony floor mats (carpet and rubber sets) from the Ford accessories catalog. These mats are not even close. They are too small and have an unusual slit that is in the passenger and driver floor mats. Even the Parts
    Manager at the Ford Dealer admitted these mats didn't fit, yet they are the recommended mat that Ford is selling. This also the same mat design that other Websites are selling. Apparently no one even took the stock mat and used it as the template for the Pony - Logo mats or All Weather Mats. Question: Has anyone found at place to buy GT mats with logo that actual cover the carpet like the original stock mats?
    Thanks.
  • chiefmacchiefmac Posts: 10
    I have a GT coupe and found the Ford stock mats were really cheap. I found running pony logo mats at Mustangtuning.com which I am really happy with. They are thick, have stiched edges, rubber backing and are made to fit well. They also have mats with a 'GT' logo.
  • otterwayotterway Posts: 10
    OK ive done the old disconnect the battery trick which is supposed to make the auto transmission re-learn the gears again (i think). This to my joy did get rid of the building grainy noise that was coming from it. It also created a slightly crisper response when accelerating and also created a fantastic "turbine slowing down" noise from the engine when coming to a dead stop. I guess this is just the great noise that V8 naturally makes when calming down after revs.
    After a few more days now the noise is coming back and the response doesn't seem as good. Does anyone know how long you need to leave the battery disconnected for the computer to reset??? I only ask because I tried the disconnect trick again but it didn't seem to work this time :(
    Also the manual says after doing the battery trick to drive right up through every gear. It may be easy for you guys in the states to do that as you have nice big open roads but here in the UK its not that easy. Should I be finding a nice open road first then disconnect my battery or is it clever enough to figure out what it needs to from city driving conditions?
    I would appreciate anyones input on this. I live in the UK so the Ford dealers over here haven't got the first clue about the stang.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 12,711
    otter....first, congrats on having a Mustang GT in the U.K. I've driven over there. You must be quite the attention getter with a rumbling, fast car cruising through the country side.

    Most auto transmissions will compare/contrast the "optimal" running given the way the car is driven and adjust itself. In other words, if you drive aggressively, the transmission will respond to the manner in which you drive by trying to adjust for "optimal" running.

    If you can, have the battery disconnected overnight, or at least, a few hours.
    2019 Kia Stinger GT2
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    "Most auto transmissions will compare/contrast the "optimal" running given the way the car is driven and adjust itself. In other words, if you drive aggressively, the transmission will respond to the manner in which you drive by trying to adjust for "optimal" running. "

    That's a common misunderstanding. Even some of the Ford PR literature is incorrect. What actually happens is this:

    * The car leaves the factory with the computer memory containing the optimim timing for each shift. One shift would be 1-2 at part throttle, another would be 2-3 at WOT, and so on.

    * When in the owner's hands, the computer compares actual timing with optimum. If different, it tweaks pressures & timings. This takes a while to do. For example, 6-12 of the same shift, with warm transmission & engine, may be required to 'train' the transmission for the shift.

    * After enough experience with all shifts, it will shift the same for you as it will for Granny. Disconnecting the battery erases the 'training' & we get to start all over.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Could you try that again...I didn't quite get it and I'm interested!

    thanks

    Mrshiftright
    Host
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    In essence, the transmission 'knows' how long each shift should take. It compares what should be, with what it measures.

    When there's a difference between the actual time and the 'should-be' time, it adjusts the pressures that apply bands and/or clutches. It makes the adjustments in failrly small icrements, each time getting closer to what should be.

    Something really cool about this is the fact that this goes on throughout the life of the tranny. Constantly monitoring shift timing, and making adjustments to compensate for wear.

    If an owner is experiencing a particularly nasty shift (e.g. harsh 1-2 at light throttle), then train the tranny to do it right: Fully warm engine & transmission then make the troublesome shift about a dozen times.

    If a person prefers the shift quality the way it was when new, disconnect the battery cable & allow the transmission to forget its training. Not recommended.

    Again: It does NOT tailor shift quality driving style.

    Does this help?
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 12,711
    Aren't we saying the same thing just in a different way?
    2019 Kia Stinger GT2
  • rorrrorr Posts: 3,630
    Actually, no.

    What lateralg is saying is that the transmission is adjusting itself so that it's actual shifts are in line with the factory settings. It is NOT adjusting itself to individual drivers and their habits. So driving 'agressively' doesn't 'teach' the tranny to shift differently.

    I have no idea if this is true or not. I was always under the impression that a 'learning' tranny DID adjust itself to the driver's style rather than, in essense, calibrate itself continuously to factory specs.

    I think I'll stick with a manual tranny, thank you very much.....
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 12,711
    Oh....OK....I think.

    I always thought that the adaptive automatic trannys had optimal shift point "maps" that were programmed. The Transimission logic would adapt to what the driver was doing to adhere to those "optimal" maps....thus changing the way the tranmission operated depending on conditions and driver input.

    In other words, depending on conditions and a "light" throttle, the transmission would react more conservatively with the shift points. Driven more agressively would cause the transmission to pursue more agressive shift points....and eveything in between.

    Which, as you say, is the reason I like manual tranny's. I prefer to be as shifty as I want to be, with no computer input.
    2019 Kia Stinger GT2
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    So it basically strives for the optimum, is what you are saying?

    What would be the effect say with very aggressive drivers like myself? I would tend to use heavy throttle. Are you saying then that the transmission would strive for
    "optimum heavy throttle shifts" for me?
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    "So it basically strives for the optimum, is what you are saying? "

    Yes. Optimum for each SHIFT.

    If a tranny never experiences a particular shift, then it can't learn it. This is where driver differences enter the picture. As an aggressive driver, who like most of us occasionally gets stuck in creep-and-beep traffic, then you have probably given your transmission experience in all of the many, many shifts, and have a 'smarter' transmission.

    A fallacy that's important to understand is that if you become a Granny-type driver, the transmission will soften up its shift characteristics. This is UNTRUE.

    I think we're closer to agreement than I realized. Let's try the following:

    For a medium-throttle 1-2 shift, after the transmission has a chance to learn that shift, yours would be essentially the same as Granny's.

    But, your WOT 1-2 shift is likely to be very different than Granny's. Why? Granny's transmission never learned that shift.

    How are we doing?
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 12,711
    I believe we are close in our understanding.
    2019 Kia Stinger GT2
  • paulctpaulct Posts: 16
    Thanks for the info. Do the new mats cover the same area as the stock mats? Or are the new mats more narrow and shorter? The ones that I ordered from Ford were too narrow and short. I just learned today from the parts managar at my Ford Dealer that the mats I had ordered for the 2005 GT were actually an older style hence the narrow layout. Apparently Ford is trying to sell off old parts inventory before redesigning a new mat. You would think with a new car, there would be better floor mats. Plus there are no rear floor mats that come with the car either. Go figure?
  • jbkreegsjbkreegs Posts: 11
    Well, I've been searching the posts and haven't found this problem yet. My dad got his new GT convertible black and black, Wednesday night (6-15-05). The car is nice and everything, but just about an hour ago today (6-16-05), when he got home, with only 82 miles on it, a large amount of gas was spilling out from behind the front drivers side wheel, only when the car is on. When its on, it looks like a water faucet is on, that is how much gas is pouring out. What the heck is going on? That could have been a serious fire, you can see on the pavement a trail of gas. And the underneath is coated in gas. What if he would have driven over a cigarette? I like the car and all, but after only 82 miles? We called the dealer at his home tonight 10pm (Wisconsin), and they will come pick it up tomorrow. Any thoughts?, and I'll keep posting once they figure out what it is. Just a disappointment after waiting so long for it to arrive.

    JB in N.E. Wisconsin
  • chiefmacchiefmac Posts: 10
    The set I bought are the same size as the stock set. You get both front and back mats.
  • chiefmacchiefmac Posts: 10
    I have a GT manufactured in Jan 05. I've had none of the problems cited previously on the forum. 3600 miles on the beast so far. I did experience the engine going into failsafe mode on two occassions. The dealer checked the codes and replaced the throttle assembly. No problems with the fly by wire system since.

    I do have a question of other GT owners concerning slop in the drive train. Just how much is normal. At slow speeds on and off the gas, and down shifting at lower speeds i get a lot of clunking from time to time. Really smooth when accellerating and shifting. I know I don't shift as well as I did 40 years ago, but it does seem sloppy. Is it just me?
  • otterwayotterway Posts: 10
    Thanks guys for your input. I think ill leave the battery connected for a while then and see what happens. I still dont know why disconnecting the battery (reseting the learning tranny) would stop the grainy noise that i was experiencing. Im not a fully fledged petrol head by any shade of the imagination but could the noise be increasing the more the tranny learns and adjusts to my driving style? I may be talking complete rubbish :confuse: but its as if a clutch plate is grinding more noisily the more i drive.
    PS. I had great pleasure in roasting a Z4 today. Love my stang.
  • hot_rodhot_rod Posts: 13
    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:

    I just got my Mustang back from having the 3rd radio installed and a new fuel sensor on Wednesday. I went and filled up my car 1 mile down the road. That night I had no problems with my fuel gage reading empty when it was full and the new radio lights and speed volume worked. When I went to go crank it up yesterday morning to go to work, my NEW radio wouldn't even LOAD a CD! On top of that, my gas gage goes to 1/2 tank and the gas light comes on again and then goes to a full tank like it should have been and then the check engine light comes on. I told them to keep it until they get it fixed, which better be soon or they were going to get me a new car. I still can't believe that the loaner that Ford gave me is a Chevy. Imagine that.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 12,711
    Did your Dad have the A/C on?
    2019 Kia Stinger GT2
  • jbkreegsjbkreegs Posts: 11
    Well, it was a gas leak, the dealer was good about picking up the car. He said that the gas line slipped off of something. (According to my Dad). They said it was rare and never heard of it, I hope it doesn't happen again. Oh well.

    Thanks
    JB
  • mrq0529mrq0529 Posts: 5
    Well it happened again! I got in the car, put the key in the ignition, turned the key to start and nothing happened. the starter clicks like a low battery but the battery is OK and all the displays are lit up like a xmas tree, the display said: "door ajar" and "check brakes" when you turn the right signal on it blinks but when you turn the left signal on the whole dash board goes blank, the radio won't play. Has anyone had this happen to them, anyone any suggestions. The first time this happened put it on the flatbed to the dealer, the tech it stared for him and he checked it out nothing came up on the computer. Now tonight the same thing happened back to the dealer Monday.
  • liveoakieliveoakie Posts: 17
    I have some streaks in the windshield that start at the edge of the black strip. they range from 1 inch to 3 inches and are 3/8 inch wide. it looks as if water has gotten in between the layers of glass. anyone seen this. oh and if you experience problems with putting gas in try this. while i didnt have that problem too much it seems thatt if i park with the front lower than the rear it fills up a lot easier. with the left rear higher than the right front seems to work the best.
  • I'm having a new shaker 500 c.d. player installed in my new stang also. Waiting for it to arrive. It skips when I play a c.d.

    I also had problems with my gas hand reading empty when it wasn't. And the engine light was coming on. They fixed it just Friday. Hope it doesn't happen again.

    They gave me a Toyota van as a loaner. Oh boy! I think they do it on purpose. But atleast it was something to drive if I needed it that day.

    Good luck! I went by the local Ford place and I'm having my sales rep. work up some info. on a 2006. Maybe the bugs will be worked out by then. Just tossing around some ideas.

    This may sound picky, but the passenger seat is soooo hard to move forward. I have my daughter sit in the back seat and I count 1-2-3 and I move it forward while she pushes on the back of the seat. That's a little ridiculous for it to be that hard to move. Whatcha think? The dealer said to put lubricant on the tracks under the seat.

    mustangsally3
  • I have had my 05 coupe for about 6 weeks now, I have noticed a slight squeak, what the heck, are my brakes bad already, 2,000 miles, should I take it to dealer?
    :):(:D
  • hughes200hughes200 Posts: 7
    The dealer told me the brakes may squeel if they get wet. I said they weren't wet whe they squeeled. Then they said they weren't squeeling now. They looked at them and said everything was fine. I'll keep following up on the brakes as I've never had a new car where the brakes squeel.
  • hot_rodhot_rod Posts: 13
    I've had the same problem with the passenger seat as well ever since I bought my car. I usually don't have to move it unless I put my nieces or nephews in the back, but compared to the other problems I'm having, I just overlook that one.

    Ford called me Friday wanting me to come and pick up my car so I could run some gas out of it and bring it back on Monday. (I filled it up the day before after they told me everything was ok when it wasn't). I told them that they should have fixed it right the first 3 times and I wasn't picking it up until everything was working like it should have been when I bought it. Sounds like to me they didn't want to fool with it until Monday. Everyday I don't get my car back is another day that they have to pay for a rental car. Seems like the would get on the ball and do something. I really miss my car. :cry:
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    Preventing harmless brake noise is one of the toughest jobs the engineers face. Try a couple of high-G stops from 60-70 MPH. There's a good chance this will eliminate the noise.
  • snakerbillsnakerbill Posts: 272
    I keep reading the posts everyday, and I hope that the later built cars will start to improve, but what I read does not fill me with glee about ordering a 2006. It seems that new problems crop up every day. How many things can go wrong with these cars before Ford takes a hand and improves the quality? I spoke with my dealer yesterday, and he informed me that the first day one can order an 2006 will be August 5. That only gives Ford 2 months to clear up all these problems. Don;t think I will order right away. Maybe in the spring of 06. Anyone have any ideas? I think Silver with black interior, delete spoiler, bright wheels and interior upgrade should do the trick. I really do not want to wait, but I just do not trust Ford at this time.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    ...new wheels, and tires. Now I have a bad shake/vibration all over. The tires have been balanced twice and rotated once. The wheels/tires don't even have 60 miles on them.

    Any ideas? Would something with the suspension cause vibration?
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    Get the tires & wheels checked on a Hunter (9600??) that measures and corrects force variation. A tire/wheel can be in perfect balance, but be an intolerable shaker due to force variation. Do a google on Hunter balancing machine.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 12,711
    I'm with lateralg on this one. I've had tires/wheels allegedly "spin balanced" and have ended up with worse vibrations than before they were balanced on other cars. Took them to a different shop and had them balanced and the problem was cured.
    2019 Kia Stinger GT2
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 12,711
    snakerbill...please don't take this as anything other than some friendly (and I do mean friendly). You seem like you've already talked yourself out of the Mustang.

    As I mentioned before, I belong to about 4-5 other Mustang enthusiasts boards besides Edmunds. All of them represent 1,000s of owners. While some had a few initial issues like slow fuel fill, or a stereo problem and a few said they heard some kind of noise from the front end when making sharp turns, the vast vast majority love the Mustang.

    You've observed posts here at Edmunds from what....10 posters?

    I think a lot of people were coming from more sedate cars, lured by the Mustang's looks. They either weren't ready for what the Mustang really is (a modern day hot-rod), or they weren't used to the driving experience that people like myself absolutely love about the car.

    The Mustang is going to ride firm. It's a loud, burbling "in your face" car that's very fast and handles very well. It's also built well. What it isn't is a softly sprung, quiet and sedate car.

    Give you a good example. This past weekend, I was at a local 'Stang show. There were mostly older Mustangs there, but there were 3 of us with '05s. A lady, in her 50s, came up to mine and asked me how I liked it. Of course I told her I loved it. I repeated the same question to her. She said she was having problems. When I inquired about them, she kept saying she couldn't keep it tuned up. Curious, I asked her what she meant. She went on to explain that it constantly backfired on her. More inquisitive, I asked her if I could hear how her car was behaving. She took me about 50 yards to where she was parked (which happened to be right next to a concrete wall). She fired it up and heard the burbling echo off the wall with an occasional "pop" when she blipped the throttle. Now, to me, it's got a wonderful hot cam and exhaust system that makes it do that and it's music to my ears. To her, she thinks it constantly needs a tune-up.

    I asked her what her previous car was. She said she had a "sports car". "What was it?" She replied she had a Solara.....a 4cyl, no less. To her, that was a sports car. The Mustang couldn't be any further from the way it rides, handles or sounds from a Solara. Therfore, she thinks something's wrong with her Mustang, when nothing could be further from the truth.

    I've seen some of your other posts regarding your Accord. It sounds like you've got some issues with the front end? and it's a year old?

    Long and short of it, I don't think you'll honestly be happy with a Mustang. At the very least, wait a model year or two until you're satisfied that Ford has allegedly changed the way they build it.

    Again, I say this in humble sincerity. Stick with your Accord.

    Just a casual observer from the outside looking in.
    2019 Kia Stinger GT2
  • chevyman2chevyman2 Posts: 2
    I bought my mustang in December. The brakes started squeaking the minute I pulled it of the lot. It has been in the shop four times for this problem. The first time they turned the rotors. The car had around 1000 miles. As soon as I picked up the car the brakes started it again. I took it back in and the service guy said it was a rock that was causing the noise. Drove it back home, brakes still squeaking. Getting a little upset at this time, and having no time to take the car myself, I had my wife take it up. The service guy took a ride with her, said there was nothing that they could do, and then had the guts to tell her it was her driving habits. The car at this point has 6000 miles on it. Driving habits or not Ford should build a better product. So back to the shop I go, cuss out everyone and their dog. The service manager has his guys do a nondirectional cut on the front rotors, brakes still squeak. Once again back to the shop. Nondirectional cut on the back rotors. Squeaking stops!!!!, but the brakes now growl and you can feel the vibration though the brake pedal. Now the car has 10,000 miles on it, and the brakes are starting to squeak. I have contacted a lawyer and here comes the big fat :lemon:
  • gtluvrgtluvr Posts: 10
    My Mustang GT was built in April and I got it early May and I am here to tell you..
    I have had NO:
    (1) Fuel tank problems
    (2) Brakes Squealing
    (3) Backfiring
    (4) Handling problems
    (5) Interior Flaws
    (6)Tire or wheel problems
    (7)Windshield problems
    (8) Shaker problems
    (9) RPM Vibrations
    (10) No gas leaks
    (11)NO problems period..
    You are right Graphic, the Mustang is a muscle car. I handles different than a Solaro..it was made to. Mine roars and acts like it is suppose to. It growls in the city and roars on the interstate. I have to laugh when the drivers in front of me see me coming and they pull over right away to let me go by. I get alot of thumbs up.
    It IS a beautiful, well built solid machine and I am here to say I am completely happy with my GT and am problem free. Maybe the later built cars had the bugs worked out.
  • hey bud, im going through the same thing right now, im thinking about getting a new eclipse instead of the mustang. one reason is that the eclipse V6. one reason is the eclipse has a standard 5 year 60,000 bumper to bumper. and a 10 year 100000 mile powertrain. not to much 7 years 100000 mile Roadside assistance. The eclipse is faster than the V6 mustang, and 8/10ths of a second slower 0-60. ive actually been waiting 6 months for my silver mustang to come in, and it is suposed to arrive in a day. but now i am starting to think maybe i am better off not getting it. i am also deciding if it is worth the money to get a 350Z. if you work out your deal right, you can also get the eclipse for about invoice, not over MSRP like the stangz. If you do decide to go with the mustang, and you wait for the 06 either do a silver interior, or the new tungsten. It is a darker version of the silver mettalic. I was dreaming of the silver car, but when i actually look at it in the sun, it may be a little light. But whichever one you choose, the dark charcoal is very sharp. But, i strongly recommend, that you get that sport appearance package no matter what if you go with silver or tungsten. The mustang tape running accross the lower part of the car and the spoiler give the silver character, i promise you, not getting those two thing, OR AT LEAST the SPOILER, will be something you regret a few months later when your paying 600+ dollars to put one on. When i first saw the new eclipse pictures on the internet and TV i thougth it looked terrible and still like a chick car. But in person, the car looks awesome, it looks like a mix between the audi tt and maybe a little bit of the 350Z. I have been waiting for months for my mustang, and had no thoughts of getting antoher car until today, when i went in and saw the new eclipse. My mustang will be arriving in two days. It is the Satin Silver V6 with Premium package. It has the Interior Upgrade Package, Antilock break with traction control package. Front side airbags, and an Active alarm system. A negative about the 05 V6 is taht there is no option to add a rear stabilizer bar and it doesn't have one standard. Also the front bar is too small for sharp handling. If you are purchasing and 06 V6, the good news is that if you get the Pony package, which includes all the pony upgrades, a rear stabilizer bar, and a larger front stabilizer bar, and ANTi LOCK BREAKS with TRACTION control, it will ONLY COST about 1100 dollars. Purchasing the antilock breaks alone for the V6 is around 800 anyways. So the pony package is a great deal. Test drive the eclipse and tell me waht you think, i could use some help deciding. good luck
  • I read on other Mustang boards that the camber is off when lowering the car and changing rim diameter and you can't change the stock camber (from what I read). You might want to get the camber checked then look into Steeda Billet Camber Adjusters to make adjustments.
  • thanks, I am just paranoid, I love this car
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    But would bad camber cause vibration?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    kinda doubtful but bad caster would (think of bad caster on supermarket shopping carts).
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Hmmm... Very interesting point. I never thought about that! Thanks, Shifty!
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    I doubt this.

    All shopping carts have a great deal of caster, but not all shimmy. In fact, most run smoothly. Those that don't run smoothly do not have oversize wheels and/or lowered suspension. Bad analogy IMO.

    How would lowering & larger wheels affect caster?

    If caster were affected enough to cause vibration, directional stability would be awful ... it would wander all over the place. On smooth concrete pavement. Not to be confused with tramlining that is a characteristic of low profile tires when operated on asphalt the has even minor wheel grooves.

    My money is still on force variation of the tire/wheel combination.
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