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Comments
I like the RAV4 very much and I'm carefully considering this vehicle for purchase, but wanted some feedback about this.
Ken
Good luck with it.
Jim
I'll keep you posted. It might take awhile for accurate MPG until the engine is broke in, but I'll fill you in on the rest. Have you test drove any yet?
To be honest, the MPG on the RAV4 is about the same as the hybrid Highlander. According to Consumer Reports, the EPA city mileage figures for hybrid vehicles are averaging 19 mpg less than EPA estimates! They do burn cleaner and that's their main advantage right now.
I've been driving various V6's for over 20 years and I was pretty impressed when test driving a RAV4 base model a few weeks ago. It had as much "get up & go" as the '02 Explorer
I just sold. Of course, that was alot heavier. I'm sure we'll get some more reports when the V6 RAV4's eventually come out.
Frank
Glad we have the 4
Frank
I guess we will have to see what the future hybrids bring to the table.
Ken
However, many Avalon drivers are able to meet or even slightly exceed the highway EPA estimates. Not sure why the V6 city mileage is so off.
Think about it - Car and driver are beating the hell out their tester...a bunch of auto journalists hammering the gas whenever possible, especially with such an entertaining engine. You're probably driving much more reasonably for the break-in.
The EPA estimates are out to lunch, as usual, but 16mpg mixed is going to prove abnormally low.
Thanks,
Jim D
Frank
I am waiting for the 6 because of the performance advantage. I don't feel the need to convince others that the 6 is the way to go because that's what I want; it's strictly a personal decision.
Im not talking down the 6, I'm just saying that the 4 will be better for the type of driving that we mostly do.. city driving
Only time will tell but I'll betcha im right:)
my guess... the 4 will get 20-30% better *city* mileage then the 6....
This is the big controversey on the hybrid forums also. From personal experience..
The EPA test is done with a very very specific set of test parameters. Essentially you have to be in San Diego rolling forward at a constant 25-30 mph and you will replicate the EPA test conditions and achieve their city numbers.
However 'city' driving is different things to different drivers. For you is it..
a) going to the store, job, soccer in several 2-3 mile trips?
b) sitting in rush hour traffic on an LA freeway?
c) driving in your neighborhood from stop sign to stop sign to stop sign etc?
d) is it cold where you live? subtract 10-15%.
c) driving in Manhattan during the day?
Short trips kill city mileage numbers. subtract 20-30%. This is true for all ICE vehicles. It's just since the hybrids came along that people have noticed the discrepancies and now this week the EPA is revising it's testing parameters beginning in 2008.
Conversely there is really only one way to cruise at ~ 55mph. That test is more indicative of real highway driving. There is however a major drop off in efficiency when you go constantly above 70 mph.
when Spring/Summer rolls around & I have to shell out
50 BUCKS to fill the tank....I want to get the most
performance outta my wallet!
It is true that on-demand should do the trick as should traction control. I think the theory is no "reactive" system will be as good as a "proactive" system. Locking the AWD turns the system to "proactive". It is less likely to lose traction in the first place if locked.
My guess is the practical difference will be difficult to quantify.
If the wheelspin is at the front, as is highly likely, the engine will be instantly dethrottled to reduce the potential for loss of directional control. If at the rear, highly UNLIKELY, and you don't recover from the wheelspin/slip incident within a few hundred milliseconds then it will dethrottle the engine to a level just above idle to prevent brake rotor overheating and subsequent warping.
Steve, Host
I read somewhere that the CRV may have a hatch in 07?
That and if they increase their mpg numbers (last year was 29 mpg highway I think) will have me very interested.
So if there is a website with that CR-V info, could you please post the site?
Thanks..............Ken
The main reasons I got rid of cr-v from my list were
PTTR(pull to the right) and dated appearance.
I've heard PTTR is not for all cr-v, however who knows
if I will get the wrong one and headache for several years.
I am happy to have 06 Rav4 and my choice was right so far.
As for pricing and lease terms... MSRP on the model I was looking at was $26,319. I'm putting $2000 down and have a 2000 Neon as a trade. The first offer was was $26,000 for the Rav and $3000 for my trade, giving a payment of $309/mo. This is for 36mo and 12,000 miles/yr. I'd actually be interested in a shorter lease but can't get the low mileage option. Their next offer was for $25,500 for the Rav and $3200 for my trade, giving a lease payment of $289. That's still $39/mo more than where I want to be. Although honestly if I didn't know I could get a better deal at Fitz it doesn't sound that bad and I'd be tempted to go for it.
gas and buy a cup of coffee at Starbucks!!! :P
You said:
"As far as buying the used V and needing a 'new' one 2 years from now; that seems ridiculous unless you always 'want' a newer car. I mean either of these should give you years of use".
Yes I agree- the reason it may be for two years is because of a job/lifestyle change, not because I need a new one. It’s possible I may keep the car for longer but just don’t know. Regarding leasing- I don’t really want to be locked into a 2-3 year lease.
The CRV sold for $18.5 to someone else (I missed it). I am now looking at a used Lexus for about the same price- $18k, an RX300 with 73k miles (I’m hoping it will hold it’s value if I need to re-sell it) I know the miles per gallon is not as good on this as the CRV or Rav4.
Thanks again- appreciate your input.