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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues

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Comments

  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    You can always search for your own posts and find the replies... that may be the easiest way to do it.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • When you say, "We put them back on" what does that mean? Did you just slip them over the edge of the pulley? If you did, this is probably the same thing your mechanic did. Let me explain. When you replace a belt, you need to loosen the adjuster bolt, to loosen the tension to remove the belt. Then, you slip the new belt on, and then tighten the belt and set it by tightening the adjuster bolt. It is possible, that the mechanic put on the new belt(s), but forgot to check the tension, which would keep the belt from working properly. If it slips off, then it is not tight, and that is all that is needed to fix the problem. Tighten the belt! I know this sounds redundant, but, we, as people, in general, are sometimes hurried with what we are doing, and we forget to double check our work, and we don't look at the obvious when we look for a solution to a problem. I betcha, this is the real reason why the belt is always slipping off. They need to be tightened! Good luck! I own a 93 Std Bed Pick-Up Dlx, and do my all of my own work on it. I have discovered with "my" Toyota, that to fix something, is to always look for the obvious!
  • Is that 35 in US dollars? I used a Fram, but I am sure I didn't pay that much for it. You'll have to raise the truck on a lift, remove the front passenger tire (so you will "feel" better, and then the starter (so you can "pretend" you have the room to work in), and then have someone keep all women, children, and the elderly at least one mile away from where you are working (for fear that they might hear your profanity, hehe!). It is one tough, tight job, and I am glad I might only have to do it one more time, before old age and infermity sets in, so I can bring it to the local shop and let some "younger" person "have all the fun" of replacing it! (Second thoughts and notes: If someone tells you its on the back rail, near the gas tank, and it isn't, you can bet your bippie its under the manifold on the passenger side of the engine, underneath, on top of the starter!)
  • Just wanted to add my two cents. Taking off the battery cables from the cables, cleaning them with a wire bush and also with a battery terminal brush, on the cables, clamps and the battery, is a good, twice a year job. My cables seem to "rot" during the year, but cleaning them and "always" checking/testing my battery and adjusting the fluid in it, has kept me on the road. If you buy a maintenance free battery, and there is no "green" eye on it, then it is not a true maintenace free battery. Pry the cap covers up with a screw driver twice a year, and add distilled water to your battery (watch out for the acid, it will eat through your clothes!). Drive the truck around for a day or two, then test the battery. If you need to charge it, then charge it. My original factory battery lasted me 10 years! And, I also discovered that "dirt" is a killer to any Toyota, not just the battery/charging system. I live in the desert and fight dirt all the time. Although, unrelated, take out your front pads and clean them, the shims and calipers with brake cleaner, the spray stuff,.spray and wipe the dirt away. And, remove your drums and clean up everything in there and on the inside of the drum, also. Dirt will cause your brakes to make noise and break down the pads/shoes prematurely. On the inside of your hood, there should be a label telling you what a "tune-up" is, to Toyota. Example: Set your RPM"s first, then adjust your timing (I inspect and adjust these twice a year, myself), then they even give you the intake and exhaust settings for your valve clearance space. All you need to adjust your valves are some feeler gauges and a flat head screwdriver!). Doing all of this, and of course, replacing your plugs, wires, etc., as discussed by paul, at least every two years, should keep your Toyota running like the day you drove it off the lot. Let me digress a bit, because I am very passionate about "my" Toyota. There is not a lot of work required to keep any vehicle in tip top condition. Think about it. There are many things you can do yourself, including changing the stock muffler, the shocks and the steering damper. As for general maintenance, replacing fluids, oils and lubricants and doing tune-ups, filters, etc., are all easy tasks. Get a repair manual (Chilton's I think, is real good), and don't spend lots of money on tools. All you need is a screw driver and some wrenches, and maybe a battery tester, engine analyser (Sears has a nice one for under 50 bucks to check your RPM's), and a scope (strobe), make sure you get the correct one, inductive or not. That's about it. You'll be amazed at what you can do, even if you don't have a torque wrench or breaker bar! I even fix my own flats and install and remove my own tires, as well as balancing them, too! Start small and always ask questions, and any body can have have a great truck that runs well all the time! Thanks, folks, for letting me share/vent!
  • I am having the same problem I own a 1977 Toyota motorhome (20R engine) and I have traced it down to the electric fuel pump( it lives inside the fuel tank) most likely you have a round filter with a nylon mess. screen with some kind of cotton element sandwiched inside.
    there is another one not far from the carb. also if you have a U-haul near by try talking to the mechanics who take care of these aging movers(there coming to the end of there service life)
    you might like to check the electric fuel pump relay in the 75 -79, 20R motors it is behind the glove box
    you might want to check the website www.airtexproducts.com they have a video of testing your fuel pump very informative
    hope this helps
    landshack
  • look to see if there is fluid in the clutch slave next to the master cyl. it is the smaller one fill it up and wait about 1/2 hour for the oil to get into the innerworkings and pump the pedal. if that works get a new clutch slave I replaced the one in my truck/ RV
    landshack
  • Thanks kcram.Got it. Budd.
  • i have changed my evaporator on my 87 toyota 4x4 and i am still leaking is it possible to bye a bad part or any other ideas to solve this prolem. it still leaksout of the evaporator ousing in the floor board
  • flkflk Posts: 1
    hi, with almost 140k miles, the truck is overheating under load. turning on the cabin heater, brings the temp down to midrange.

    it also seems to be losing both radiator fluid and oil, but i don't see any leaks.

    the engine seems to run fine ...

    i am not a mechanic, but also don't have one i can trust.

    what diagnostics should i perform to determine cause?

    tx,
    flk
  • I just turned 74K on my '88 and all of a sudden she starts to sputter! Can't figure out if it's bad fuel, water or just age. I've been told that fuel additives might help or octane booster to clean out the jets. I've mever added any of them, just wondering of anyone out there with an 'ol girl my age that has used some type of cleaning in the tank.
  • I have a 1992 4x4 pickup, in four years of operation the check engine light came on. I had just changed all of the oils and filter in preperation for Winter. After a couple of miles the light came on. Stopped and checked fluids, temp etc. to no avail ( even checked for a loose cap on the fuel fill)...Is there a reset?? Would appreciate any info...Thanks
  • I have a 1993 4X4 4 cyl. with the 22R engine. Recently the engine has started to overheat for no apparent reason. I have replaced the thermostat. After replacing the thermostat it seemed to take care of it for a while but the problem returned. I have tried running it with the thermostat removed to continuously keep water running through the block but that won't even keep it cool. I have flushed the radiator as well as replaced the cap. Also when it overheats I have no heat. Maybe something with the heater core??? The water pump seems to be working fine and I am not leaking any fluid anywhere. I am really at a loss as to what it could be. ANY help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • have you taken it in to have the diagnostic run on it? you can have that done for free at auto zone or advance.
  • kiijokiijo Posts: 1
    I've got a problem with my steering. Most of the time there is no problem, but at certain speeds (~35-40mph) I start to get pretty harsh shaking in my steering wheel. I've asked around a little bit and someone suggested that it might be a problem with the "shim dampener", is there such a thing? If so, is this the problem, and what needs to be done to get it fixed. Thanks!
  • It sounds to me like the fuel filter is clogged. I would change it, it is located on the passenger side on the engie block. 2 12mm bolts hold it on.
  • should be on the efi side of the block 2 12mm bolts hold it in. (hard job)
  • any luck on repairing your pickup? I'm having similar problems. Is the fuel pump relay in the box next to the battery? Mine was in a wreck so some of the parts are damaged or missing on the right side fender area. Let me know.
    outlaw68
  • did you ever find the problem on your pickup? let me know. I think i may have the same problem. Thanks,
    outlaw68
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there kiijo,
    If you haven't already, try swapping your two front tires from one side to the other. But if the problem is still there you will have at least ruled out the tires. There is a shock absorber called a steering dampener, and if that is blown out it usually has an oily residue around the external seal where the shock piston shaft comes out. and can sometimes cause excessive steering wheel vibration. The steering dampener is connected to the frame on one end and the steering center link at the other. You might have to remove your skid plate to access this component more easily.
    Hope this helps, TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there flk,
    If your losing oil and coolant but cannot find any leaks, your best bet is to get what is called a leak-down test. It's like a compression test but instead of compression gauge you hook up a kit that comes w/ leak gauge and a compressed air supply adapter, and a hose that threads into the spark plug holes just like a compression tester. For example: when the air is hooked up it pressurizes the cylinder in question via the spark plug hole, if the needle on the gauge is showing that the cylinder is not holding spec pressure you then remove the oil fill cap and listen for a hissing noise which in that case would mean that there is to much blow-by at the pistion rings and is coming out of the oil cap. or if you hear a hissing noise coming out of the exhaust when you put your ear up to the end of the tail pipe that would indicate an exhaust valve is either bent or has been burnt. sometimes you can't always hear the hissing noise coming out of the exhaust so you can just hold a cigarette close to the opening of the tail pipe to see the smoke being blown away. or if you hear the hissing noise coming out the carb or throttle body that would indicate a bent or burnt intake valve. But in your case you might be dealing w/ a small internal leak in your head gasket and for that you would remove your radiator cap and look for bubbles or traces of oil contamination in your coolant. Trust me, I've seen vehicles that run great with blown head gaskets so just because yours runs fine and might not be smoking doesn't mean you have a good head gasket. Before doing all of that, you can remove your thermistat and see if it runs cooler that way, but don't leave it out for good, its just a diagnostic step. I would recommend going to a reputable shop or at least a shop w/ a chain of stores rather than independant ones, or just go the dealer and get an estimate for a leak-down test.
    Hope I could help, TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey everybody,
    My brother has a 1992 Toyota pick-up 5-speed manual trans 4x4 extra cab w/ the stock 3.0L V-6 and wants to put a 3.4L V-6 in instead. I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on what mods if any, we would need to do for this swap. ie: Fuel pump, motor mounts, trans mission or just the bell housing, fuel lines, throttle & cruise control cables, ect... Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated. Also I am a Hummer (AM Gerneral), GM, Ford, and Subaru certified Technician and if anyone has any questions that I can help you w/ in return for helping me, I would have no problem giving them a try. And I myself own a 1992 Toyota pick-up 4x4 standard cab 5-speed manual trans.
    I thank you for your time and any comments you can donate.
    TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    If a fuel filter does not fix this problem you might want to vacuum test your EGR valve. I have seen vehicles run great for a few seconds and just die due to this problem. But if your only having problems when it's warm out that could either be your Cold Start Injector, or your coolant temperature sensor which is located on your intake manifold. During start up your ECM (depending on ambient air temperature) will dump more fuel due to the colder dencer air, but if your sensor is malfunctioning it will do this same thing even when it is warmer out causing the vehicle to stall due to excessive fuel delivery. And also, because I didn't want to go through changing my fuel filter like that again and more importantly, I didn't want my fuel getting that hot considering that it was right up against the hot engine block I relocated it to the inside right front fender well, there is plenty of fuel line to accomodate this change in location and I haven't had a problem since.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey man,
    I am a technician myself, and I have a friend who had his motor rebuilt by an independent shop and the same type of thing happened. My friend took the guy to small claims court and won all of his money back. He won because he went to a reputable shop in which they had lots of chains around the country, possibly a dealer. He asked around if any technicians could be a professonal witness to his case, and he found someone who would. The technician also said that he would do the work for the same price and he put in a factory crate motor. I would defenitly take this guy to court, I mean come on, he royally ripped you off w/ shotty workmanship. You deserve to at least get your money back. My friend signed a paper saying there were no warrentees, but that didn't stand up in court at all, because if your running a business you have to produce a product that satisfies the customer, but if all your doing is taking peoples money and potentially putting the customers life in danger due to there shotty work, thats against the law.
    You go get that grease monkey, and put him back in his cage w/ no bananas for a year. Good luck, TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    My buddy had the same problem in his truck. We changed the fluid and replaced the clutch and the problem went away. When the clutch starts to go out it makes it harder for the syncros for the different gears to engage properly and at times only engage halfway. So it will feel like it's in gear but will pop out all of a sudden. My first step to take is to change the fluid in the trans, then make sure you have plenty of DOT 3 brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder which is the small reservoir next to the the brake master cylinder. But even if its full or not I would recommend bleeding the clutch fluid system just to be safe. Then to replace the clutch, a good clutch kit will run you about $120 and should come w/ a flywheel, clutch disc,pressure plate, clutch release bearing(throw-out bearing), and the clutch alignment tool. And as a last resort, replace the transmission. All of these steps are obviously starting from the cheapest fix to the most expensive. So, good luck, and I hope I could help. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey Mobi,
    Looks like your on the right track w/ the EGR and O2 sensors, but don't rule out your cold start injector or coolant temp sensor either. I'm a tech, and it sounds like you know what your doing, so I'll just share a story w/ similar symptoms due to the fact that I won't have to explain anything. My wifes car had the same symptoms as yours you know idleing rough, coughing, sputtering, etc. I hooked it up to a scan tool at work and it had a DTC in it's history for a coolant temp sensor out of range but no check engine light. So I went into data display when I had it running and found that when the system was in closed loop status the coolant temp sensor was reading -30 F below zero and was just dumping the fuel in by the truck loads but you couldn't smell any excess fuel. So I hope this helps you in any way possible, TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there,
    I'm a tech and I have rebuilt my own 1992 Toyota pick-up 4x4 standard cab 5-speed manual trans., and I have rebuilt 20R motors as well for my friend as side jobs and I know these people and see them on a weekly basis. The first 22RE I rebuilt was six year ago and my own was 3 1/2 years ago and neither myself or my friends have had any problems w/ driveability issues. and also the only aluminum components on the 22RE's are the valve cover, front timing cover, and the cylinder head, the block is solid cast iron and the oil pan is molded steel. I'm not nockin your friend who worked for Toyota but who ever told him that these engines never run as well after rebuilding them didn't know what they were talking about. All you have to do is use a ridge-reamer if necessary depending on the mileage, bore and hone the cylinders to .030" of an inch larger, replace the pistons and rings w/ .030" sized ones, mill the engine block deck, mill the cylinder head wether it's warped or not, have the crank shaft turned, install a new cam and all new timing components, have the rocker arm tappet faces resurfaced and hard faced, have the valves and valve seats reground or just lapped depending on pitting severity, replace all necessary bearings (crank rod and main,cam,etc) and if your a real stickler for perfection you'll have the crank mains align bored.
    I'm not trying to be a pain, I just hate seeing people getting screwed w/ shotty workmanship, it's just not cool. And also a good engine rebuilder can rebuild an engine in about a week, not five. It shouldn't matter how busy they say they are. If they are that busy they should be looking out for your interests and tell you that it will take longer. I hope this helps in any way possible. Hell, maybe you can take the guy to small claims court, get your money back. Then you can print this out as a rebuild list and have it done the right way. The same thing happened to my best friend six years ago. He took the guy to court, got his money back and I rebuilt his motor for him. That was the same first 22RE that I ever rebuilt. Good luck. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there,
    I'm a technician myself, and you do not have to reset anything, my friend who is also a technician just replaced his a couple of months ago and he hasn't had any problems. Your actually supposed to replace your O2 sensors every 100,000 miles. Hope this helps you. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    The 3.0L V-6 fits in perfectly w/ no extra mods. But I my self am trying to find out if if I can swap the 3.0 w/ the 3.4. I'm not sure how much it would cost because me and my brother did the labor for a good friend and I know there are V-6 engines for sale on ebay. So you could start there. Hope this helps you in any way. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey Seastuff,
    It's probably an unrelated problem, due to the fact that none of the fluid levels, being either too high or too low can cause the check engine light to come on. the cooling system doesn't have a light because it has the gauge, the engine oil either has a gauge or the low oil light, and the trans, transfer case, front and rear diffs don't have fluid level sensors. There is no light for the fuel system or A/C refrigerant either. It's smart of you to check the fuel filler cap because most people don't even realize that could cause that problem. The first thing that I would check would be all of you evaporative emissions hoses at your charcoal canister to make sure that they are all connected and that they aren't starting to crack. Don't forget about the other ends of those hoses at the fuel tank either because most people overlook those. Next check all of your vacuum lines at your intake manifold. And what ever you do, do not turn or twist those little breather/drum looking things mounted to the plates on top of your valve cover w/ the different colored ends, those are vacuum solenoids and they have a specific factory setting. after that you should vacuum test you EGR valve because if that is not working right it can cause your engine to run either too rich or too lean and that can take out your O2 sensors, and that most definitly will trip the check engine light. I hope that this information will be helpfull in your diagnosis of your check engine light. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey isaacorps,
    First off I have to say thank you for adding in that little bit about how you don't have any heat. Most people over look that issue and write it off as something unrelated. When the coolant moves through the engine block the only way it can get from one side to the other is through the heater core, I know it souns like a bad idea but it's the only way to get adequet flow through the core. Also, I know you said that the water pump seems to be working fine, and it most likely is, that's because there is an actual method to these engineers' madness. If you have ever seen the inside of a water pump you will remember seeing that there is about an 8th inch gap between the impellor blades and the actual housing, that makes these pumps a non positive displacement pump. They do this for two reasons: 1) precisley the reason your having, because the pump has enough clearence around the impellor blades that it won't cause excess pressure in the system and cause your heater core to explode all over your feet. 2) If it was a positive displacement pump they would have to engineer the entire system w/ high pressure hydraulic lines and fittings and whole shabang. They would also have to take into acount the dramatic rise in tempereture. I also know that you said that you had flushed the cooling system, and I applaud you sir. But your probably only dealing w/ a heater core that is almost completely plugged but still has enough flow to taunt you with false hope. Hope that this will be helpfull in your diagnosis. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Try looking into the EGR system, the coolant temp sensor, and it its EFI, look into the cold start injector. These are the most common problems. Hope this helps. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Me again. If you do ever have a starter problem you can usually rebuild them your self for way cheaper than if you bought a new or reman one.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    If the EFI fuse is not blown as Austin had stated. You might want to check to see if your fuel pump relay is working or not, a super easy check is to see if there are any other relays in the fuse box or that you can see around there and just do a quick swap to see if the truck fires up or not, that way you can rule out the fuel pump relay. Just make sure that the other relay isn't for another important system like the ignition system. If that doesn't work I would try testing the fuel pump itselt. You can find testing procedures in the repair manuals like Haynes or Chilton. And concidering that it runs when you spray starter fluid in it obviously rules out the ignition system, just go easy w/ that stuff. I've seen first hand what that stuff can do, and it does melt holes in your pistions w/ excessive use. I hope this info helps. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    You might want to do a valve adjustment, thats basically the diesels version of a tune-up. You can adjust the valves using the valve overlap method. You can go online and find repair manual online for pretty cheap and they will tell you how to adjust the valves. It's different from adjusting a gas engines valves. I hope this info helps you. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Unfortunately w/ out pulling the transmission it's going to be hard to tell what exactly the problem is. You said that when you push in the clutch that it disengaged the trans, which means that you can start the truck w/ the clutch pushed in because if it won't come out of fourth gear the truck will learch forward if you have the clutch start cancel button pushed in. I am a tech and have worked on my fare share of toyotas because pretty much all of my friends and family have pick-ups including myself. I would pull the tranny, See if there is top plate that you can remove where the shift lever goes in and look for any broken, bent, or binding components such as, bent or broken shifter forks, missing shifter fork shaft roll pins, missing shifter fork to syncro poly eurethane guides, bound or broken 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear syncros. But first, drain the fluid into fast food cup and check for matal shavings or chunks. If the fluid has a gold matalic sheen to it, it is probably a syncro or a bushing. But any other metal shavings or small chunks could be anything else. If the fluid is any other color than amber or almost clear, try refilling it and working it free. Possibly have someone tow you around a parking lot while holding the clutch in and releasing it and at the same time jerking on the shifter. That could be enough to break it free. I hope this info helps you. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hi, me again,
    I almost forgot to tell you, that is if your truck is fuel injected, try not to start it excessively, due the fact that the injectors cycle every time you turn the ignition from off to start and if you don't have an EFI problem you could fill your cylinders up w/ fuel and hydrolock your motor. I know it sounds rediculous but I've seen it happen, so be careful. TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there,
    I would try disconnecting the battery cables from the battery, because even though they might look ok they probably have gummy waxy type substance that has built up during that year of sitting. Trust me, I've gone through this same probem on my Dad's 1980, my 1992, and my brother's 1992 pick-ups. All you have to do is take a small thin bladed pocket knife like a swiss army w/ the tooth pick and tweezers. Not a battery terminal cleaning tool because those just move this stuff around and doesn't get it all off. When you use the pocket knife on the cable end you will want to scrape the blade sideways across the surface so you don't carve grooves into the soft metal. But on the post itself just scrape front the bottom up all the way around the posts. This way you will have two mirror finished surfaces to mate up against which will also give you the maximum surface area of contact. Also the long sit cold climate could have drained the battery of its charge, so you could put a jump box, a battery charger, or just get a jump start from someone w/ cables to see if that would be enough to get it started. But before all that even just for piece of mind you should get a breaker bar and try to turn the engine over manually at the crank shaft pulley bolt. Hope this info helps you in your diagnosis. TECH007.
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Hey there,
    If the book says that your supposed to have infinite ohms and your reading 0 ohms as in continuity that means that the circuit is shorted. If that reading is coming from the fuel pump side of the harness you need to replace the fuel pump. But if that reading is coming from the harness side you will need to trace the short to it's point of origin, most likly chafing on a frame rail or cross member. Hope this helps.TECH007
  • tech007tech007 Posts: 21
    Most of the time if you just go down to your local toyota dealer and ask the service manager, or shop forman if they could print or copy the diagram you need they will do it for free. I've been doing that for years. Just when my repair manual doesn't cover the subject completely or the diagram isn't that great. Hope this info helps. TECH007
  • hey everyone,
    basically, my truck has a squeeling noise and I can't seem to figure out what it is. I know its not the belts and its not the brakes. When I'm driving the sound seems to come from almost underneath and behind me. It doesn't matter if my truck is warm or cold, it still happens. Anybody know of any problems that might cause this? It sounds like a bad bearing, but if I remember right i think it makes the noise when I'm stopped too ( i could be wrong about that, i cant remember for sure. But if it is true, what the hell could it possibly be?) I like to get opinions before i take it to the shop so..... if anyone could help I'd love it-thanks
  • more information to my last post....so i drove it around tonight and here is more correct information. The squeeling noise only occurs when I am idling and moving. When i first put on the gas lightly, it makes a weird noise that is hard to describe but souns like chchchchc if that amkes any sense, but as soon as a good amount of power comes the squeel stops or cannot be heard. The squeel comes back on as soon as i let off gas and is still definatly comeing from behind the drivers seat. Its freakin annoying and loud. I hope that makes more sense than my last post. Anyone have any clues? I have a fan in my bathroom that makes the same noise. ridiculous
  • I have a 94 4x4 ext. cab pickup... its got a 6" suspension lift, 3 inch body lift, and 36x13.5x15 Superswamper irok radials.... with a stock 22re with stock gearing and 215k miles. just a tad underpowered, but surprisingly runs with NO problems and almost like its brand new. I just bought a cold air intake and header. I want to do a full engine rebuild with tons of power. I was wondering if anyone on here would know how to get the most power out of my 4 banger with out boreing it,.. im willing to pay some money, but i dont want to bore it out. i was thinking about shaving the head, cam, high performance pistons and whatever else. if anyone has any info on where i can get some high performance parts, and what all i could do to it for the most possible power without boreing please let me know.
    Thanks,
    Jarret
  • I have an 88 toy 4x4 with the 3.0 VZE. The engine runs with hesitation and stuttering, not to its full torque. I love my truck and wish that i can fix this small problem. After the truck is warmed up it seems to run allot better. It has new plugs, wires, rotor and cap and coil. Ive looked at the fuses and retightened the engine grounds. Is there anything else to look at. Waiting for a responce from the gods....
  • (On a cross-country trip) I will pull over and fill up with gas...and it will start up fine. But if I pull to a rest stop and wait for 15min, it will not start up. I wait an additional 30 min. it will start up with no problems. Does the starter relay overheat? My stupid book tells me nothing. Looking for answers.
  • Does anyone know how many DEFINITE locations of VIN#'s are on a 1988 Toyota Pickup?
  • Well i guess im addressing my own question. Found a spark plug wire interior that deteriorated close to the plug. new wires? strange, easy fix.
  • I bought a 92 V/6 PU with 160,000 on the clock.
    There is a clicking clatter on the R/H bank, Drivers side.
    Is there a manual adjustment? Whats the spec and procedure? :mad: :confuse: Thanks
  • Hi again,
    My 160,000 mile V/6 PU needed a clutch job.
    I went online and shoped one frome Kragens online.
    I bought a Perfection Clutch kit. It was cheap and complete.
    The machinist told me the flywheel "was a virgin"
    so I assume it was the 1st clutch job.
    I have done at least 5 of these v/6 clutches before and did and found nothing out of the ordinary.
    Upon testing the new cluth I noted the pedal pressure was high, upon start up and test, I found there to be no free play, the clutch released off the floor and the clutch
    pedal has to be floored to engage not grind gears.
    The pedal effort is excessive. The release is too low.
    I bled the slave and went over the inslink">tall in my mind and find nothing remarkable.
    The components appeared identical and The T/O bearing was the same height.
    Anyt Ideas? Thanks
  • looks like there is a guide on top of one of the pulleys that is attached to the engine block. how do I get the belt under this guide
  • Hello, I'm new to this forum. My teenage son managed to run our 1990 4 x 4 pick out of oil. :sick: I'm pulling the 4 cylinder engine for the rebuild. I've pulled the pan and the crankshaft was scored by a spun rod bearing I've got the intake manifold off the engine but the wiring harness passes thru the harness. Is there a way to get the manifold off the harness with out disconnecting all the harness connections? Thanks for your help.
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