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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues

1246710

Comments

  • mynew92mynew92 Posts: 1
    Hi, I just bought a 92 dx 6 cyl and was wondering if someone could help with an air conditioning problem. The green A/C light only comes on once in a while when I push the button, and the air doesn't seem to be cold at any time. I checked the fuse behind the glove box and it is OK. When I replaced the fuse, I could hear a clicking sound as the fuse contacted its terminal. Thank you for any information.
  • i own a 93 yota 4x4 that was leaking alot of coolant and it was leaking into the engine. if your truck seems to smoke alot when you start it and whilel it is warming up it'll blow alot of smoke. if that is the case you have a strong possibility of having a cracked head gasket. i hope that helps you out. message me back if you have any ?'s.
  • Had same problem it was calipers pushing brake pad into rotor
  • Campaign Number: 05V389000 Date: 2005-Sep-06


    Component: Steering: Linkages: Rod: Relay: Connecting

    Defect Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, IF THE STEERING WHEEL IS REPEATEDLY TURNED UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS WHERE HIGH STEERING EFFORT AND POWER ASSIST ARE REQUIRED, FOR INSTANCE, WHEN FULLY TURNING THE WHEEL WHILE THE VEHICLE IS STOPPED, A FATIGUE CRACK MAY DEVELOP IN THE STEERING RELAY ROD.

    Consequence Summary: IF THE VEHICLE IS CONTINUED TO BE OPERATED IN THIS CONDITION, THE RELAY ROD MAY FRACTURE, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.

    Corrective Summary: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE STEERING RELAY ROD. THE RECALL BEGAN OCTOBER 5, 2005. OWNERS MAY CONTACT TOYOTA AT 1-800-331-4331.
  • Just had the recall relay rod repaired take advantage of the recall no cost......
  • muktrukmuktruk Posts: 1
    i have tried to change my headlights a few times on my truck but cant seem to get the grille off. usuall y get frustrated and go back in the house... any suggestionsm for prying taht sucker off?
  • I got a 94 4x4 ext.cab yota with a 22re, 10 inches of lift, with 36/13.50 iroks. I had just over 217,000 miles and needed a rebuild, so its bored 30 over, shaved and polished head, headers, intake, all MSD ignition, the work..( i wanted a BAD 4 banger), it runs great and can spin those 36's on dry concrete but now when i come to a stop it idles down to about 250 RPM and wont idle up untill you hit the gas, then runs where it should, it would only do it sometimes before the rebuild, now it does it all the time, and the check engine like comes on and goes of when ever it wants. this happen to anyone else ??? any info would be greatly appreciated...Thanks
  • Well, a couple nights ago some bastards stole my catalytic converter off the bottom of my truck. It was sitting right in my driveway. Apearantly (I don't know how true this is, but this is what a police officer told me), there is some sort of metal (platinum or titanium) in the cats of brand new tacomas and people steal the cats to melt down the metal inside to make grills (and by grills i'm not talking about the one in the front of our trucks, i'm talking about the bling bling in the rapper's teeth.) Whats funny is that these people think that all toyota trucks have the same cat and so mine got stolen even though it is pretty much worthless since it was not a new cat, and it was rusted over and other stuff so i really needed a new one anyways.

    Here is my question: I got a new cat from autozone or whatever. Its the direct fit, not the universal and I was wondering if catalytic converters are directional or not? I just slapped some gaskets on there and bolted it on so I'm not really sure if its on right, but it sounds and runs fine. I don't want to build up any back pressure or anything though if i have it facing the wrong direction. If anyone could set me straight I'd appreciate it. Also, if anybody happened to have any pictures or know where i could go to see them..... lemme know. Thanks everybody, and watch out.
  • I am looking for someone who carries a kayak on their Pre-Tacoma truck. I recently purchased a 12ft kayak and I am looking for the best way to carry it without spending $500 on a rack system. I am really interested in anyone that has built their own rack. Thanks.
  • Feds Probe Toyota Pickup, SUV Suspension Failures



    April 20, 2006
    Toyota pickup trucks and SUVs are the focus of a National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) recall query because of reports that the front suspension ball joints may come apart. Toyota trucks that are included in the investigation are the 2002-2004 Tundra, and Sequoia, 2001-2004 Tacoma and 2001-2002 4Runner.

    The automaker submitted a letter August 5, 2005 to NHTSA reporting the defect that "could result in the separation of front suspension ball joints."

    According to Toyota, the problem is a "manufacturing issue" which could result in accelerated wear of the ball joint causing a separation.

    Toyota reports that the lower ball joints that are failing were manufactured between May 2001 and October 2003.

    The NHTSA Office of Defect Investigation has received four complaints alleging five front suspension ball joint "separation incidents" while driving. In each case the driver lost control of the truck.

    The separation incidents reported to NHTSA occurred at 52,000, 70,595, 80,000 and 116,000 vehicle miles. One complaint alleged lower ball joint failures involving both front wheels within a four-month period.
  • hugh18hugh18 Posts: 1
    My 1993 Extra Long WB Delux V6 Pickup rear wheel lockup on me while driving. I am having trouble getting the drum off because the shoes are against the drum. I have opened the bleeder cock to relieve pressure, and tried to adjust the brakes but that seems frozen. I was just wondering if anyone many have a way to get this of that I may not be thinking of. Please let me know. Thanks Marty
  • Just bought a 91 4x4 toyota and want to put the toyota am-fm tape deck from my camry into the slot where the am-fm radio is now. can't find any screws or obvious way to pull out the stereo like I had in my old mazda truck,that was a very easy radio to remove. does the chilton's book have info on radio removal? anybody with a suggestion?
  • Any luck with that fuel filter?

    I've got the same truck and was thinking of venturing into a fuel filter replacement this weekend.

    Darron

    [email protected]
  • roseg76roseg76 Posts: 2
    Truckrabbit -- You have to pretty much remove the lower part of the dash panel to be able to get to it. It's not too bad to do, mostly just phillips screws. It includes the glove box and plastic below the steering wheel to get to it. Make sure that before you undertake this task that the wiring harness that's currently in their will match the one you're going to put in. I'm not sure that they make factory adapters if you need one.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    As stated in the post box, please do NOT put your email address in your messages. Answers shared in the forums benefit others who may have similar problems/questions, and it prevents people from using your email address for mailcious purposes.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • janelle3janelle3 Posts: 1
    Hi - Am looking at a '95 Xcab V6 Toyota with 63,000 miles (actual and confirmed). Seems good/clean - am concerned about the alleged head gasket problems. Is this a universal problem - stay away from this vehicle kind of thing? Given the option of another truck (tacoma model perhaps) - should one go for that? Or - is there a good possiblity that this one could go the Toyota distance? Pls. advise - made an offer, am considering withdrawing it. I'd like to see 200k out of her without a rebuild. Oh, and the guy just had the radiator flushed/cleaned 5000 miles ago - would one be able to see any oil in it at this point if indeed it is leaking at this point? And - does the "smoke" become apparant right away with a cracked and or leaking head gasket (didn't see any)?
    THANKS - please be honest - though I love the truck - I'm not willing to take on some ridiculous risk.....
  • kelleyjekelleyje Posts: 1
    i have a 94 p/u with the 22re engine. i have had it for almost 4 years and just crossed 108k miles. starting last year my truck began revving up on its own at stoplights, anytime the brake was pushed in, or it was in neutral. sometimes I don't even have to push on the gas and it will accelerate on its own! right after it first started doing this it blew a head gasket. while they had it torn apart, they replaced the timing chain, and cleaned the throttle body. after i got the truck back it was finre for about 3 months before it began doing this again. all the mechanics will do is adjust the idle speed down too low. i have heard everything from vapor lock, to timing problems or a vacuum leak. none of these are the culprit. i am sooo desparate to figure this out. any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • kelleyje,

    i actually had the same problem about 4 weeks ago with my 87 p/u. im making the assumption that the 22re in them are the same basic ECU programming.

    my problem was that the thermostat had gotten stuck. this resulted in the engine getting really hot, and then revving up on its own in order to spin the belt-driven fan in the front and cool the engine.

    once i had replaced the thermostat and filled it up with new coolant, it ran at the perfect idle speed.

    long response, short answer. oh well.
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    1995 Toyota 4x4 pickup 22RE 4cyl.. When i accelerate before truck gets warmed up it acts like its not getting enough fuel. It does not respond to a steady throttle and runs sluggish until the motor warms up and then it runs fine. Truck has recent tune up and air and fuel filters have been changed. I suspect an air fuel mixture problem. Any help or valve or switches that i should look at?? Thanks folks
  • 1990pickup1990pickup Posts: 5
    I have a 1990 4x4 pickup with a 22RE. The Check Engine Light came on, and the error code that I get corresponds to a knock sensor issue.

    The drawing in the Chilton's book doesn't really do a good job of letting you know where the knock sensor is, and the instructions are not as detailed as I would like. Has anyone had to deal with / remove the knock sensor on this type of truck? Thanks much for your help!
  • jss5724jss5724 Posts: 1
    That's funny. It sounds like we have the same taste, because I have a 12ft. kayak in a short bed taco. I bought this thing on eBay that is similar to the product on this website:
    http://www.off-road.com/atv/HitchHand.htm
    I paid $14, some kind of harbor freight crap but it works well. Guy selling it claimed you can make it go up right so you can use it with a rack system on your cab which I have from a precious car. It goes into this little hitch box I bought on eBay for $20 and works perfectly. Instead of running ropes all over the bed, just lay it down flat and use rubber bungees for a quick load up and departure. Pretty sweet and solved my probs for about $50 after all of the shipping.
  • Hi Everyone,
    I live in Mich. I acquired a 91 toyota truck that had been rolled into a tele. pole!! the cab is trash on passenger side... I am looking for a cab for this beast can anyone HELP??????? would prefer a manual shift but at this point I will make anything work..Thanks Rod
  • kmulcahykmulcahy Posts: 2
    Hello Turkeyt, I have the same make and model as your truck and I have also came upon this problem. My check engine light came on a few weeks ago so I brought it to a local Toyota shop. The mechanics told me that if the light comes back on then it is an Air Flow problem. The Light has not come back on but I have also came upon the problem that after I have been driving for a little while and I put the truck in park while it is still running, after a few minutes the truck will start to shake as if it is almost going to die. I believe that this is an Idol problem but I am not sure. I was wondering if you came up with a solution to the problem and if so please email me at [email protected] It would be greatly appreciated.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    As mentioned right in the post box as well as the Membership Agreement...

    PLEASE do not put your email address in your messages!

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • kmulcahykmulcahy Posts: 2
    Hello Turkeyt, I have the same make and model as your truck and I have also came upon this problem. My check engine light came on a few weeks ago so I brought it to a local Toyota shop. The mechanics told me that if the light comes back on then it is an Air Flow problem. The Light has not come back on but I have also came upon the problem that after I have been driving for a little while and I put the truck in park while it is still running, after a few minutes the truck will start to shake as if it is almost going to die. I believe that this is an Idol problem but I am not sure. I was wondering if you came up with a solution to the problem.
  • libodryvrlibodryvr Posts: 3
    Just like that my directional indicator lights and directinals quit working on my truck. I looked inside for the fuse panel but could not find it. I found the box under the hood but it does not show anyplace for directionals. Does anyone know where the heck the fuse panel is??? I don't have an owner manual or chilton or haynes. Please help.
  • Hi all,new to this site, before I go to the shop, want to make sure I tell then what to look for so I won't get ripped off. I have a 94 Toyota x-Cab 4x4 Pickup. When I travel, I leave it sitting for a week or so in the garage. I engage the parking brake and leave it in gear. When I come home and after starting it up, I release the parking brake, put it in gear and as I release the clutch, it goes nowhere and begins bogging down. I can tell that the brakes are frozen, not sure if front or rear. I have disk on front, drum on rear. I overcome the frozen brakes by sheer engine force, almost having to drop the clutch while revving, then they pop loose and all is fine again. This never happens while sitting overnight, just after sitting for a week or more. I want to go have a complete brake job, but usually they just replace the pads/disks, should I be replacing the cable from the emergency brake handle also? What other parts should I tell the shop to make sure they check? Also, any recommendations for the shop, we have Pep-Boys, and all the other general retailers around here in Corpus, just want to get the job done right the first time. On another note, I bought the beefy after-market torsion bars, the install seems fairly straight forward, any recommendations as to the best way to do this job. I also am about the have the clutch replaced, the bearing is starting to squeal, I have 155K on this one, bought the parts, any recommendations on doing it myself or giving to a pro. Thanks for any/all help anyone can offer me,
    Thank you
    Jerry
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    Hey, I ran a trouble code on my truck and came up with a coolant temperature switch. You can run a code on your truck (up thru 1995) by doing this. On the passenger side fender well there is little box beside your main fuse box. Open it up and contact a wire to the TE1 and E1 terminal. Then go inside and turn off all gadgets radio etc. Put tranny in neutral and then turn on the key but do not start the truck. The check engine light will blink the trouble codes and you count the number. It will blink say 2 times and pause and then blink say 2 more times and continue to blink those sequences. 22 being coolant temp. sensor. You may have more than one set of fault codes in there and it will seperate them by blinking one fault and then the other. If no fault codes are in there then the check light will blink about every half second. You can go online to get fault codes for your truck or buy a Chiltons book. Hope this helps D.T.
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    Hey, Your parking brake may release under the dash but that does not mean it releases at the rear wheels. Climb under the rear and have someone release the parking brake and you can watch the cable. The cable leads to a lever outside of the rear wheel and it will freeze up if you don't keep it oiled. If it is froze up or sticking get a breaker bar and go to work on it by working it in and out. Shoot the oil to it and after awhile it should free up. If it is not the rear parking brake you may have a problem with your front brake calipers sticking. The next time this problem happens, jack the front wheel up and try to turn the wheel. If it won't turn freely it very well may be that the calipers are sticking and causing the pads to be pressed against the rotors to tight. I would replace the brake hose if it is the front causing the problem. I have had brake lines collapse from the inside and when you press down on the brakes the calipers woud stick and not return. If that does not work then the calipers are next. Determine if the problem is front or rear by trying the above. Hope this info helps. D.T.
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    Hey, The problem may be your turn signal flasher under the driver side dash behind the kick panel. Most trucks have a fuse also and it should be under the left dash. Hope this helps D.T.
  • scottybobscottybob Posts: 7
    well im happy with my truck but i just found out a prob when im driving down the highway it over heats but when i turn my heat on full blast it comes down but im just concerned with the head gasket. im thinking it could be the thermostat hopefully. maybee the radiator. hopefully not the head gasket. it has 160,000 on it. can anyone help me out.
    just a note it only happens when im on the highway but has not happened with city yet.
    ive only had the vehicle for about a week now
  • I've had a similar problem with my truck - there are a number of things I suggest you check out. I just had a new block put in (threw a rod on the old one). After the motor swap, things just weren't the same, and one of my issues was overheating.

    Naturally, make sure your radiator is filled with coolant and that there are no leaks. Replacing your thermostat is never a bad idea - I removed my thermostat (I live in Hawaii - it never gets cold here so I don't really need it). I am pretty sure that the mechanic wasn't paying attention and put the thermostat in backwards. This helped but I still had overheating issues.

    You can pull the inlet hose off of your radiator, put a bucket underneath to catch the coolant, and at the same time run a hose into the radiator at a trickle. With the engine running, you should see water / coolant flowing out of the inlet hose - this will let you know that your water pump is working.

    Check your ignition timing. After dialing in the timing, the problem got better for me. Right now I'm getting an error code for a knock sensor issue, which I'm sure is also contributing - since the timing is not being retarded as it should when the engine is under load. If your check Engine light is on, you can run a diagnostic.

    Hope this helps. Best of luck!
  • Thanks Mate, will get under there this weekend, its in the shop getting a new paint job right now. After thinking about it, I realized it must be the rear brakes, after all, like you said, its just a cable pulling there, so hopefully that will solve the problem, thanks and willlet you know how it comes out.
    Jerry
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    Hey, Get that thermostat out of there and pay the 6 to 8 bucks to replace it. Question: After you warm the engine up squeeze the top hose. Does it feel as hard as a rock? If it does i would say the themostat is not opening. If you suspect a head gasket could be the fault, buy or borrow a compression gauge, pull one spark plug at a time and check the comp. in each cylinder. Are you loosing fluid other than by overheating? If not then i only hope it is that themostat. Hope this helps, D.T.
  • scottybobscottybob Posts: 7
    sweet thanks im gonna try to do that depending on what the dealership comes up with. i do have to put a new radiator in it but its not leaking fluid
  • scottybobscottybob Posts: 7
    okay im gonna check that tommorow. as far as i remember the top hose was kinda stiff. im not loosing any fluid but i do have to take it to the dealership and have them look at it. i had a buddy that had the same truck and had a head gasket problem with it but he was pretty rough with it. does anyone know what the % is on head gaskets going.
    wheres the thermostat at on the engine
  • scottybobscottybob Posts: 7
    is there still a recall from toyota on the head gasket. and if so how do i go about it. and is there any other recals on the 94 toyota truck.
    thanks alot guys.
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    There is a recall for steering bar that goes all the way across the front and hooks to the tie rods for trucks up thru 94 95. They have had problems with the rod cracking while turning the wheel. WOW!! Go online and type in toyota recalls and you can get all the info. D.T.
  • ponyboy5ponyboy5 Posts: 1
    I got a n 86 Toyota pick-up for free. The only problem with it is under 20 miles an hour it starts to idle very rough and will stall out if I dont keep my foot on the gas. I have replaced the fuel filter, the air filter, and have checked the plugs and wires. The rotor cap seems to be in perfect condition. It has a full tank of gas. Over 20 miles an hour it runs fine with no missing. I appreciate any input as I would rather buy the exact part needed albeit that is the problem. has anyone had this problem? thanks
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    You can run a trouble code on your truck (up thru 1995) by doing this. On the passenger side fender well there is little box beside your main fuse box. Open it up and contact a wire to the TE1 and E1 terminal. Then go inside and turn off all gadgets radio etc. Put tranny in neutral and then turn on the key but do not start the truck. The check engine light will blink the trouble codes and you count the number. It will blink say 2 times and pause and then blink say 2 more times and continue to blink those sequences. 22 being coolant temp. sensor. You may have more than one set of fault codes in there and it will seperate them by blinking one fault and then the other. If no fault codes are in there then the check light will blink about every half second. You can go online to get fault codes for your truck or buy a Chiltons book. Hope this helps D.T.
  • wdpwdp Posts: 9
    I have a 95 pickup, 5-spd, 4x4, ext. cab, 3.0L, V6. Recently, the dealer replaced the steering center link which was a manufacturer recall item. Since then, however, I have been experiencing what is sometimes severe shaking in the front end when I brake to a stop from highway speeds. The shaking extends right to the steering wheel. It feels like the right front brake is grabbing but my mechanic cannot find anything in the brakes or front end that might explain the problem. Of course, it doesn't happen all the time and hasn't when he drives it. It seems to happen usually on the first drive of the day and then not later on. I have tried braking after shutting the engine off and it still happens sometimes. I am stumped. Could it be a bad steering stabilizer shock? Any other ideas?
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    Hey, Did the shop align the front end up when they replaced the rod? That could cause you a problem. Second, If the truck has alot of miles you may have a weak stabilizer. Unbolt the end on the drivers side and push it in and pull it out to check it. If it's soft then it would not hurt to repace it. Check the idler arm on the passenger side by having someone turn the steering wheel real quick from side to side. If its worn any it will move up and down and cause the front end to shake. If they popped any suspension parts out when they replaced the link it's hard to tell if they got everything back just right. Remember this was recall work. Check everything from one end of the suspension to the other. Hope any of this info helps. D.T.
  • wdpwdp Posts: 9
    What do fault codes 14 and 25 indicate on a 1995 pick-up, 4x4, 3.0L, V6, 5-sp? Thanks.
  • subgeniussubgenius Posts: 3
    Here's my simple problem My 1980 20r is seriously acting up after it warms up a bit. Almost as though its missing a cylinder only way more random and causes an almost unbearable and embarrasingly surging rough ride. I know what you're thinking HEAD GASKET... but there is NO oily residue at all in the clean coolant or traces of water/foam in the oil, plugs are good, new battery, wires appear good, I tested coil and it's within proper specs, new alternator, new distributor cap + rotor, new fuel filter ( which seems full all the time so its not fuel pump as far as i can see ), methyl hydrate in fuel for water issues and also additive to burn out deposits, carb has been sprayed out, all vacuum lines are new, choke on carb seems to work ok, new carb float about 2 years ago, . phew! oh and new muffler system. I am racking my brain here trying to figure out what it is. I RULED OUT timing chain because it would do it all the time or almost right away as the chain's slack got taken up by the tensioner... so I assume it is an internal carb issue possibly with the secondary getting stuck ( happened before they had to force it open ) and after the choke is done and releases somewhat it isn't getting what it needs and hesitates badly.I haven't noticed any darker exhaust... ANY IDEAS?????? :confuse:
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    Hey, Type in toyota trouble codes for your truck using google search engine. There are 3 or more faults for 25. After you fix the problem for the code 25 the 14 may clear out also. That happened when i had a 22 and a 13 fault code It was a cooant temp. sensor. When i replaced the sensor both codes never came back. Sometimes the fault codes tie into each other. Hopes this info helps. D.T.
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    Hey, Have you checked the accelerator pump on the side of the carb. It primes the carb and if it's not working properly it will cause you motor to stumble, fumble and bumble. If it's bad you should be able to purchase it by itself. You also mentioned the plug wires look good. Looks can be deceiving when you look at the plug wires. There may be one that's broke down and not letting enough juice to the plugs. Also check the sight glass at the front of the carb to be sure your float level is right. The gas should be in the middle of the window. Hopes this info helps. D.T.
  • subgeniussubgenius Posts: 3
    Thanks I will look at it. I noticed there was a rubber boot that was cracked and weeping a bit of fuel on it if it's what i'm thinking you are talking about.... also i will test the plug wires with a multi-meter but the sight glass level is a-ok. Thanks a bunch and it's always easier to do minor stuff before blowing 400 canadian on a new carb. Really appreciate the advice!
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    Hey, There is a 91 standard cab on Ebay now that's in Tenn. The item number is 170001453453. Hope this helps. D.T.
  • subgeniussubgenius Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice. I managed to nail the problem . It turns out that the aap diaphraghm on the side of the carb was malfuntioning/old and inflexible so i got it in an entire carb kit for cheaper than the single piece from the dealer! It was very easy to install and once it was in it cleared itself right up after a good test run . A few issues at first I imagine from having to clear itself out but now its running better than ever.Look here for more details: link title
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