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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues

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Comments

  • jeanniewjeanniew Posts: 2
    I have a "94 yota 2wd, 22r just rebulit, it keeps blowning
    the 30amp fuse, in the fuse box. it will idle fine, but it will die, w/in 2 blocks, if, i move it. i need advice as to
    where or what to start with to find my problem.
  • gwm59gwm59 Posts: 1
    did you ever figure out your noise . i think its acrod or crankshaft bearing noise
  • dpaynedpayne Posts: 3
    I just bought this 91 with 164,000 miles that is in Great shape. The only problem that I can find with it is when I turn the wheel all the way to the left or all the way to the right I hear a loud clunk. Both of the axles have recently been replaced. The former owner says it has done this since he owned the truck. Any ideas would be appreaciated.
  • 1990pickup1990pickup Posts: 5
    Is the noise anything close to a screech and does it happen only when you are moving? If so maybe check your limiting stops - they rub - grease will fix this
  • novoticnovotic Posts: 1
    hey guys,
    for anyone who has any idea on were i can find a good deal on a new suspension for my 84 4x4 diesel pick up would be greatly appreciated, i'm not looking for anything crazy, a stock a a good price or a small lift would be great i need new complete leaf springs and struts.
    thank you
  • nomad6899nomad6899 Posts: 9
    could be the mass air sensor in the airbox. It opens and closes the nutterfly vslvr similair to the choke. otherwise some type of Timing problem missing link in belt or chain that kind of thing. No matter what start cheap work your way up smd good luck
  • nomad6899nomad6899 Posts: 9
    I am desperately seeking a 93-94 reg cab or ext cab pickup 2 w/d with a 4 cylinder. I use it for my ems response vehicle. I have one now with body ruting away and damage to the body but a practically new drive train as well as rotors n such. Guys If you have one available PLEASE PLEASE help me out I live in TX, but if the price is not Killing I can of course come and tow ir back. PLEASE Gang help out a life saver save his toy. Thanks
  • aggmanaggman Posts: 2
    On each side of the front suspension there is a small bolt with a square head that acts as a "stop" for the front wheel assembly when turning hard left or right. From the factory there are small plastic caps wedged on the bolt heads to dampen any noise. They are very prone to cracking and fall off easily. When they are gone, you will hear "metal on metal" noises when turning hard such as exiting a driveway where there may be vertical movement of the front suspension along with the turning. Very annoying, but harmless otherwise. You may be able to find the caps at a dealer, put them on and put a little axle grease on the outside and the noise will go away- until the cap cracks and falls off!!
  • aggmanaggman Posts: 2
    I have what seems to be a weird problem. 1991 xtra cab 4wd, 22re engine, 75k miles. When I am at a stop, foot on brake, the engine will have a rough idle for a few seconds, then be ok, then run rough again for a few seconds. If you remove your foot from the brake, the problem goes away. It will happen with AC on always, or if AC is off the problem will occur when truck is cold. Some kind of vacuum issue? Any help would be appreciated!!
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    I have a 95 that did something similar once. I found out that my mechanic had adjusted the idle way too high. That could be it, if you have a tachometer (one on a timing light, perhaps) then you could check to make sure your idle is at the correct speed. I think proper idle for a 22re is gonna be 750 rpm. It also wouldn't hurt to make sure your Throttle Position Sensor is properly adjusted and in good working order.

    As far as vacuum leaks go, you should probably check the main vacuum line between the intake ad the brake booster.
  • jcboasejcboase Posts: 1
    where can I find these caps or what is the proper name for them? I would like to put some new ones on to stop the same noise from happening with my truck. Thanks for all of your help.
  • Not sure where you can find those caps, but in the meantime apply a layer of chassis grease to the area where the two pieces of metal rub against each other. This works better than you would think - probably keep the noise away for about a year.
  • aussie7aussie7 Posts: 3
    ive just brought a 88 pickupwith 22r auto with dually rear end and a dumping body (ex uhaul) here is the problem with it, the guy i brought it from (someone i know) ran it out of gas and in the aptemt to get it home try it get the most of the gas left out of the tank by swerving side to side well it must of got a lot of dirt in the line because it would not start after refilling it with gas it wouldnt run anymore!!
    so i got it home took off the front pass wheel and removed the filter it was full of rusty gritty dirt i put in a new filter on check the fuel in the tank has some dirt in it but not alot ,but it still wont run right!! very ruff ,wont idle so i took of the pipe that goes to the injector rail at the font of the engine 3/4-19mm bolt and then cranked it gas shot out of there seam there lots of presusre from the pump then i took the flexible pipe from the throttle body and sprayed starting fliud and she fired for a few second then back to runnig ruff again any ideas???? thanks
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Sounds like some of that crud from the filter made it's way into the injectors. Try some injector cleaner in the tank, some Berryman's or 3M or something like that. If it still won't run right, you'll probably have to pull the injectors and have them professionally cleaned. Also try to make sure the fuel pump pressure is correct, even if it flows from the loosened line, it may not be correct. Might have to get some special tools to measure fuel pressure.
  • aussie7aussie7 Posts: 3
    yup i think your right today i pulled the tank out and fell back when i saw how much crap was sitting in the bottom there was water in the tank and a rust line level with the top of the pump the tank is history so i just ordered one online getting another filter and pump along with a strainer i also straP a airline to the fuel line and blew any dirt it had in there for about 10 minutes im hoping the injectors will be fine look like a nightmare job!! after taking that filter off a couple of time it gets easier did it with the wheel off !!!
  • glstevensglstevens Posts: 1
    I have replaced the pump and the EFI relay, but I still can't get the pump to turn on. I have no power going to it. I have checked all the fuses and it still won't work. Any ideas???
  • jporter1jporter1 Posts: 5
    I have a toyota pickup Afghan special and the engine has been replaced with a V6 EFI. Is your V6 an EFI? If it is, can you get me your radiator part number and the fan part number? I have tried to buy these parts from various online sellers, but I cannot find the proper V6 EFI. Your assistance to me, I will pass generosity on to someone else down the line. :confuse:
  • aussie7aussie7 Posts: 3
    ok so i got my new tank today and replaced the filter at the engine as well as the fuel pump strainer and its still not running right! it will start then idle ok for 5 second and then run rough for a couple of seconds then die out does this time after time any help ???injectors seam alot of work to replace and costly too!! also anyway of checking fuel pump pressure???
  • Here's a good one for you. '89 Toyota PU, 4wd,3.0 liter. It started and ran well, but then started feeling like it was having power issues when driving around slowly. It actually quit moving and died. It started right back up and ran well, but when I put it in gear it wouldn't move and died. I checked the emergency brake cable and it was releasing. Jacked up all for tires -- none of them would move. Messed with trans shifter and transfer case shifter --seem to be working fine. Decided to disconnnect rear drive shaft -- my thinking was that if it were a brake problem, removing the shaft wouldn't make a difference, but if, after removing it, I could turn the back tires, then the problem would be in the trans or transfer case. I removed the nuts off the connector just behind the transfer case only to find that there's apparently studs there instead of bolts and, when I tried to separate the shaft from the case grease came out -- never seen that before. So as I was quickly trying to pull it back together to stop the leaking, the under carriage of the truck started moaning and groaning. I honestly don't know how to describe it, but it groaned and stretched for 10 to 20 second,then stopped. I crawled out from underneath, and all 4 tires were then able to turn. I drove it back to the house and parked it, unsure as to what my next step should be. My gut feeling is that the hydraulic braking system locked up, but I've never heard of that happening. And, for some reason, it decided to relax (maybe that describes the truck's sounds better--relaxing instead of groaning) and release itself. Has anyone experienced this before? Any ideas on where to head with it? I'd appreciate any help I could get. Thanks
  • I've had my brake system lock up before, but not on my truck, it was on my Toyota mini van. I didn't seem at all like what you described. The way it happened to me was I went to change lanes on the freeway, (luckily it was rush hour and moving slow) I moved over and tapped the brake to ease into the next lane, and the van stopped like I was standing on the pedal. I suppose the main difference was that my van would still move if I hit the gas hard enough to fight the brake pressure. It turns out the brake booster locked up inside, there's a pressed on ring that goes around the main shaft inside the booster to act as a limiter. The ring got bent out of shape and when I pressed the brake it held the shaft all the way back locking up the brakes. I don't know if that's what's happening to you, but if you have the time and know how I suppose it's worth a look.
  • I finally got back to trying to figure out what was going on. When I drive the truck without using the foot brake it doesn't mess up, but when driving, after using the brake a time or two, it locks up solid, then I just have to wait until it relaxes and fixes itself. So I got it home and checked the brake fluid -- the rubber in the cap has stretched out by about 25% and the fluid is honey colored. I assume it has gotten contaminated -- like maybe a teenager putting power steering fluid in it. I crawled underneath to start the bleeding process and undid 3 of the 4 brake lines at the calipers/drums and no fluid runs out of any of the 3. It appears that I have a major blockage of fluid in both directions. If I can figure out how to drain the system and clean the lines, I will then replace the master cylinder and fluid. I hope that's all it takes -- that I don't have to replace the lines and power booster. If anyone has tips or more input, I'd sure appreciate it --I'm fairly new to brakes and brand new to Toyotas.
  • You may need a helper to sit in the truck and build up brake pressure while you bleed them out. Start at the right rear wheel and work your way closer to the master cylinder. Have your helper pump the brake pedal about 3-4 times and then hold the pedal down while you release the bleeder screw. To get most of the fluid out you'll have to repeat this process about 6-7 times per wheel. Check the reservoir in between wheels to see how much has come out, it may be necessary to add some fluid periodically before you are done.
  • Apparently the front half of the master cylinder was blocked. I might have been able to clean it, but it obviously had contaminated fluid, so I pulled the cylinder, used air to blow out all the brake lines, put on a new master brake unit, bled it, and it works fine. Now, the next problem. Power steering fluid has been disappearing, but I haven't seen it on the ground. So, I filled the ps reservoir and headed down the road, but left a blue cloud behind me -- nothing registered even as I quickly lost my power steering. When I was through running around, I lifted the hood (car was still running) and topped off the reservoir again. Almost immediately, blue - funny smelling smoke came out the tailpipe. My immediately response was, that can't happen, there's no correlation between exhaust and power steering. Nevertheless, I checked out the power steering pump and found two apparent vacuum lines running from it to the intake plenum. Obviously, the truck is sucking power steering fluid into the intake. Now the questions - why is there a need to have the pump and intake connected? Where does the problem lie, in the pump or in the intake? What happens if I shut these lines down? Once again, I sure appreciate any help and insight into these problems.
  • Well, I looked in my Haynes manual, and although it's not a factory manual, it does have diagrams of the power steering pumps for the 4 cyl and the V6. The diagrams show that both have vacuum lines, and give little explanation for them except to say that they're for a "control valve". I'd imagine that if it's for a control switch or valve then it might not work right if you close them off. It might be possible to just get a new valve from the dealership instead of getting a whole new pump. Dealership might have it, or you may need to try a junk yard.
  • OK, I understand how difficult this diagnosis is without being there, but I just had the 22RE rebuilt in my truck, taking it out and putting it in myself. It now starts fine, idles smooth for a few seconds, then dies. Will fire right back up, then die again. While running, just thinking about touching the throttle kills the motor instantly. What I would like to know is where to start. I changed the gas filter while the motor was out, too. Can anyone suggest the best place to look for the problem? Electrical? Fuel pressure? Vacuum leak? I believe I have all the hoses back on correctly, but maybe not. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Robert.
  • My 87 pickup with 200.00 miles runs great, but sometimes I smell fuel. I can not find where it is coming from and would like to find the leak. Does anyone have any ideas?????
  • If you only smell it sometimes then it's most likely not leaking from a pressure hose. When do you smell gas? After filling it up? If you only smell gas when the tank is full, then it might be the filler pipe, vent pipe or the seal around the top of the fuel pump. If you smell gas when the truck is warming up, then it might me the cold start injector line, assuming it's EFI. If it's a carb then it could be the needle valves getting stuck sometimes and overflowing the carb bowl. Need to know more...
  • These are all interesting questions. I will be more diligent in my investigation and get back to you with more precise info. Thanks....
  • I am looking to buy a used pickup truck for work, and I got some advice to buy an old Toyota pickup because they have a reputation of being extremely dependable. Is this true? And is there a particular year that is exceptionally good? Please help me, I don't know anything about cars or trucks.
  • ds99ds99 Posts: 1
    I have a 93 pick up with 190,000 miles. I was driving home and oil started leaking from the engine area. I had replaced the timing belt about 10,000 miles ago and do not know what is causing the leak(which is heavy.) I would appriciate any advice or help.
    Thank you, ds99
  • I have a 1987 toyota with a junk yard 1988 v6 fuel injected engine. The body has 159,000
    miles on the odometer, don't know about the engine. It runs well and I have replace parts to the tune of about $300. It should keep running till the tires fall off. I call it my Afghan terrorist truck as these are what they use. I can see why. They run, run, run.
  • I was using my turn signals today and then all of a sudden they stopped working on both sides. I have check my fuses but they are all good and I am at a loss. If you have any suggestions please let me know.
  • hey i have just ran into a problem with my turn signals not working. if you found anything out on why yours isnt working i would greatly appreciate a little info i am at a loss here also in what may be the problem
  • Next to steering colimn on drivers side is the signal switch aka flash unit that is what it is unless a major electrical short. the flash unit is very easy and inexpensive to fix plugs right in
  • if the harmonic balancer aka that big pully on the bottom is worn it will leak through there. Mine did this and drove me nuts trying to find it. finally got it fixed...DO NOT USE JUNKYARD PARTS to fix this
  • Did u bleed the injectors and fuel lines properly??
  • Thermostat is always best place to start first for overheats, if your oil and antifreeze look normal then it is usually cooling problem. it just takes two bolts on the four cylinder and any good parts store will show you how and where it goes
  • Do not forget to check fan condition too....if it was damaged by snow when truck was stuck...and remember to check oil and radiator fluids to make sure no cylinder head issues,,,,22res seem famous for head gasket leaks from water jackets in the number 4 cylinder
  • jzurjzur Posts: 4
    My 1994 4x4 Toyota Pickup has a rear driver's side backing plate that is rusting. Soon I am sure my brakes will be affected by this action. Does anyone know what kind of a job it would be to replace this backing plate? Do I have to take out the axle to do this job?
    Thanks jzur
  • jzurjzur Posts: 4
    Hi Jay,
    I own a 94 toyota pickup. Had the same problem. The fuel filter is located just above the oil filter on the engine block. If you don't know where the oil filter is located, it is located behind a pan in the wheel well on the passenger side of the vehicle. As far as the idle of the four cylinder engine, I think that is normal for it to run rough. I bought my 94 toyota new and it run rough from day one. But it is a very dependable engine. Good Luck, jzur
  • The idle for the 4 cyl (22re) at "operating temperature" is +/-750 rpm. The other question is if it's running rough, or is it knocking. If it's running rough, rev up the engine in park/neutral, and see if black smoke comes out the tailpipe. If there's black smoke, then you've got an injector issue. If it's knocking at idle but runs smoother while driving/revving (engine in higher rpm's), then the EGR valve is clogged up. This is all assuming you've already changed the fuel filter and assuming the fuel pressure is OK.
  • Just got a '91, 2wd, 5-spd, 22re, 79,600 original miles.

    First start the next day it idles fast, then slow. About a second fast, then a second slow, evenly spaced up and down.

    Of course it didn't do this yesterday when I became the proud owner of this rough gem. Can anyone help me work this bug out?
  • My toyota pickup just broke 100,000 miles and the block cracked. I need help finding a new engine. I looked online and found a bunch of these crate/rebuilt engine websites. I dont know if they are a scam or what. I drive a 94 4wd 4 cyl. 2.4L 22RE engine toyota pickup. any help with finding someone or a legite website that has that engine would be great. Thanks
  • I see motors, 22re even, on craigslits a lot. And there are parts vehicles that seem possible too on craigslist.
  • Engine misses and wants to die when in drive. Changed out plugs,wires, dist. cap. pulled ALL vacuum hoses and checked for leaks and obstructions. With brake pedal down in neutral, idle get's worse like there's a vacuum leak. Tight on cash and can' afford a mechanic. Any help would be appreciated.
  • I bought a 93 2wd Toyota pickup a few months ago, 80,000 original miles, and nicely maintained by the two previous owners. While I bought it for practical reasons -- hauling, etc. -- its condition and handling are slowly pushing me to think of this as my favorite family vehicle. And that has led me to start thinking about an interior upgrade, specifically replacing the bench seat.

    Does anyone know if pre-Tacoma Toyotas ever had individual seats available? I'd love to start my interior upgrade with two "buckets" with firmer back and lateral support and center arm rests. If Toyota supplied these, do they just slip into existing mounts in the floor board? And if they do, do the seat belts need to be reanchored or rewired?

    Thanks in advance for your input.
  • Will an '86 L.B. body non 4x4 bolt up to an '84 4x4 long bed frame/ how about the cab?
  • Hi,
    I have an 88 Toyota 4x4 pickup with a V6 3.0L engine. it has 180,000 miles on it. I did a full tune up 5000 miles ago with new: Spark plugs, wires, distributer cap and rotor. I just replaced the air filter and oil 10-40W. I live near Detroit and the engine has a very hard time starting in the cold weather. the truck starts fine in warm weather. But when its cold it will take about 6 or 8 tries of turning the engine over, before it will start. The starter will engage and turn the engine but it has a hard time starting. When the engine does start, it misses real bad, for about 15 to 20 seconds, then starts idling normally. I checked the plugs and they have a brown tint to them but they are not that worn. Any suggestions to whats causing the problem? or how I can fix this myself?
  • I have the same engine in my '88 Toyota. It just turned 160,000 miles and since I bought it off a young kid, I have no idea as to when it was tuned up. So far it starts fast, runs well, so I will leave it alone for now. Did your vehicle run okay after you replaced the plugs with newone's? :shades:
  • Yes it ran ok, after I changed the plugs. but it still had a small amount of cold starting problems. This year the cold starts are real bad. Did you ask the young man when he last changed the timing belt because it might be due again?
This discussion has been closed.