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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues



  • The IAC is what lets air come through the throttle body when you are stopped in drive. When you are stopped the throttle plate is closed all the way, but still has to have air coming through to keep the engine running. That's when the IAC opens up. It's possible that if it runs fine while you're stopped and the transmission is in drive, but then tries to die when you try to accelerate, that the IAC might be stuck open instead of closed. I haven't heard of this too many times, and I'm not certain it's the problem, but it's worth a shot.

    The box with the flap on top of the air cleaner is the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). It looks a little different than other cars, but that is it. The air moving through the tube moves the flap back and forth, which turns the sensor, and then sends the data to the computer.
  • i just got my 92 toyota PU 5 spd with 149K miles on it. the person i bought it from installed new water pump, valves, and some other things. it ran perfectly until a few weeks ago. now it putters. i can hear a puttering sound coming from the middle on the underside of the truck. everytime i step on the gas it would run...but it seems like theres no power. i use to go 70 mph on the highway with ease. now i can barely make 60 mph. if im in the wrong gear, the whole truck would start shaking. i took it to my mechanic and he said "loose clutch?" when i press the clutch, a less notable putter sound disappears. let go of the clutch..putt putt putt. i need help before i start to tackle this thanks

  • thanks, i'll give it a shot.
  • hls1hls1 Posts: 1
    Easy fix. I have an 84 Toyota Celica with the 22RE engine and just fixed mine. I paid $3.50 at Advance Autoparts for the seal (Beck Arnley). Pull the fan belts. Pull the harmonic balance by removing the center bolt and using a puller. (advance sells one for < $15 - its just a simple center bolt to push and two bolts that screw into the front of the Harmonic balance). The seal is then open to remove. Use a small screwdriver to pop it out. Push the new one in, you can tap it in with the handle of the screwdriver, no real force required. Then put it back together. I did not pull the radiator, but I did loosen the mounts and lift it up 3 inches with the hoses attached to get the puller center bolt room to clear.
  • A friend of mine has a 93 toyota pick up and one day he started it up and it started knocking and squealing within the engine. He shut it off and had it towed to his house and it been sitting there for a couple of years. The truck is in really good shape, 130,000 miles and he said give him $500. for it. He said it didn't burn any oil,run good and no problems with it. It still started last time he started it.

    My question is what could be causing this knocking and squealing?

    The truck is worth putting a reman. short block in it at $1000. cost. I'm hoping its just the crank/ rod bearings and I can just replace those. I'm no mechanic, I'm just guessing. Is there any other issues with doing a rebuild that I should know of?

    Any info would be helpful.
  • turkeytturkeyt Posts: 19
    My 88 SR5 22RE is blowing the engine fuse under the dash. Does anyone know what all this fuse is linked to? It seems to affect the blinkers and gauges but the truck runs ok. Thanks
  • Well I got the truck, got it started and it sounded like a machine gun. So I decided to do the engine swap myself.

    I started today and have it just about ready to come out. I think the worst was the wiring. Pulling all those wires though the intake manifold and the wiring that goes back to the tranny and transfer case. It should be a real pain getting them all back in and going to the right spot. Some went up, back, down, across, oh ya fun,fun,fun.

    Overall I think it went well. I did an online parts request for a engine and received about 7 responses. One is 55 miles away, 93,000 miles on it and a cost of $600.

    I do have some questions and see link to photos below. Is this where I should disconect the fuel line (4th pic)? How do I get the 2 17mm bolts out of the upper bell housing right next to the firewall (2nd & 3rd pic)? I realy didn't try hard, I was done for the day and getting tired. I thought I read somewhere I might be better off taking out the tranny with the engine, is this true?

    Picture 5 is what came out of the bottom of the radiator and some of the other low hoses, very oily and sludgy. When I removed the steel elbow that is conected with two hoses from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator, there was a thick oily sludge coming out of it.

    What is you take on this cross mixing? Where did the oil and coolant get mixed at? Is it probably under the timing chain cover?
  • Ok My 94 2.4 has 210,000. Runs like champ mostly. It really used to studder when cold but i changed tps sensor and took out cat and runs better. When i start it up sometimes it putters for a couple of seconds. Kinda like about to stall. Then also when im high in the rpm's i noticed mainly in 3 4 and 5 gear it bucks badly. It does this all the time. Im not sure if timing is off or if the tps isnt positioned right because it does have adjustments. Did anyone have these problems or am I the only lucky one :) ?????
  • I have a 81 4wd toyota and not sure if what i have is a long bed a short bed or a standard bed what are the differences. I believed that I measured it out to 84 inches not including gate.
    And does anyone know who made bed liners for it.
  • Anyone know what the symptoms are of a bad Cat?
  • I have a 93 toyota pickup 2wd.. i been havin problems with my truck it seems to studder or surge whenever im pushin on the brake, it has gotten worse and now it does it whenever im in idle.. it got so bad whenever i pushed all the way down on the brake it would cut off.. so i took it to the shop and they said their was trash in the intake summtin.. aint sure.. I think they said i need a throttle box or summtin it stopped doing it and then resently it started doing it again, so i took it back to a different place and they perofrmed a tune up on it and it still is doing it... is there any ideas.....
  • I was wondering if you ever figured out what was wrong with your truck. Mine has recently started doing the same thing. Mine is much older though. If you could let me know why it bucks when the rpm is high 3-5th gear, I would greatly appreciate it.I was wondering if the cooler temperatures have something to do with it.
  • I bought an old 85 pickup six months ago that had a new engine put in it. It has run great. About two days ago I noticed that when I was in fourth gear and the rpms got up to 3 or above it started bucking and acting like it was losing power. When I took my foot off the gas and let the rpms down it was ok. It doesn't do it in first through third gear, only in fourth when the rpms are above three. If anyone could help me out I would greatly apprciate it.
  • Well to everyone no i havent found the problem yet. My friend works for toyota and he suggested a couple of things. I have not tried yet because not my everydayer. He said try cleaning the mass air flow sensor. He said to spray the diode inside with a brake cleaner that doesnt leave residue. very important!! He said for mine I put a cheap o2 sensor from auto zone and he said nono. What it is is acctually a air/ feul miuxture sensor and aftermarket sensor dont respond as quick as factory ones causeing engine lights and foul running. I now get an engine light when on highway for some reason?? I think my head gasket is gone but havent done a compression check yet. If this helps or if anyone has anyone to add please help cause id like to fix mine too!! thanks
  • I have a 1992 Toyota Pickup 4x4 V6 extra cab 141K miles and I just noticed that the temperature gauge is not working at all. I was out in the truck on a day when it was cold and the heat was working just fine (not sure if this is relevant or not). My question is: How can I test the gauge to make sure it is working OR how can I determine that it is the Thermostat that has gone bad.

    Thanks for any help.
  • my yota used to get worse when it was colder temperatures, but later on it whould just do it all the time. But when it did Once it warmed up it was just a little bit.. I havent had time to go to the shop yet with school and work but once i get the chance ill lettya know..
  • I looked in my Haynes manual and it looks like the temperature sensor for the dashboard guage is near the thermostat housing, at the front of the intake manifold. I know on my 4 cyl it's the sensor with the single thin wire, the one with 2 wires is for the computer. The picture in the manual looks like both of the sensors are right next to each other. First, check and see if the wire leading to it is OK. If the wire is OK, then take off the connector, and hook up a jumper wire from the wire connector to the block, then turn on the ignition - don't start the truck. If the gauge now shows hot, then you need a new sensor. If you have to replace the sensor, make sure you use some teflon tape on the threads so it doesn't spring a leak.
  • My friend has a pick up with a 22re and said that it was up under the intake manifold. The manual says to access it from the front passenger side wheel well, taking off wheel and inner skirts. When he and his grandfather(a former mechanic/auto teacher) did it, they said it took about an hour. I havent done one, but good luck.
  • I recently picked up 2 1987 4x4 pickups with 22r's. The junkyard is willing to sell me all of the components to do one conversion to a 22re on one of the pickups. Does anyone know if the conversion is worth it?(i.e. mpg, power, other expenses)
  • u finally took my yota into the shop and they fixed the dash pot on the trottle box, and then the bottom part where it connected was broken... My truck stopped studdering and its runnin good.. hopefully it will stay that way..thanks for the help
  • My 95 pickup has been giving me problems with the throttle body lately. It will stick slightly open while driving. It's not noticeable while moving, but when you come to a stop the engine is idling high. When I get stopped I can open the hood and physically grab the throttle and close it, that gets it back to normal idle, but of course that's not convenient to do in traffic. I've already removed the throttle body and cleaned and oiled it thoroughly. I even went so far as to get the pricy Toyota brand "throttle body cleaner". I also cleaned the inside of the intake. When I do give it a good cleaning and lubing it works OK for a little while, but, once again, it's not practical. A cleaning might last 300-500 miles before it starts sticking again.

    The throttle cable seems to move with hardly any effort, so I don't think it's bound or kinked anywhere. I've also adjusted the stop screw on the throttle plate and the dashpot, as well as tightened up most of the slack in the cable. In a way it really just seems like my return springs are worn out. Unfortuantely the dealership won't sell just the springs, and they're telling me a new throttle body is almost $500. Has anyone had a problem like this before, or could maybe point me in the right direction?
  • i have a 94 22re engine that i have recently replaced the head gasket on, and in putting it back together i am getting odd compression readings; 65 psi in #1 chamber, 30 psi in #2 chamber, 6 psi in #3 chamber, and nothing in the 4th. what the deuce? any ideas?
  • I am having the same problem. I have taken it to multiple places as well and no one seems to be able to figure it out. However, recently the problem has escalated to this happening while i'm actually driving and the truck will not allow me to go over about 3,000 RPMs or it will just basically shut down until the rpms drop and then it will allow me to increase the rpms again until they hit the 3K mark. This allows me to drive about 35 mph in 5 gear. trust me it's pretty awesome going 35 on the freeway. If you get to the bottom of this please let me know. I'm figuring it must be a computer problem of some kind.
  • The only thing i can tell you is tell them to check the dash pot on the trottle body, that was my problem and the bottom of the trottle body was missin a part bc of all the muddin i guess... But my truck as stopped doin it after i got it fixed..mine never got that bad but it does sound like summtin on the trottle body or in that same area.. i hope you get it fixed.. keep in touch
  • I just had work done on my pickup and now I'm having sputtering problems. Can anyone help?
    Sometimes it does it and some times it doesn't but its getting worse.
    I replaced the fuel filter and it was fine for a couple of days but now its acting up again.
  • is your truck 4 or 6 cyclinder. what kind of repairs did you have done.
  • rick69rick69 Posts: 5
    Its a 4 cyclinder fuel injected 22re engine 5 speed.
    I just had the head gasket replaced,valve job,water pump, timing chain,fuel filter,tune up,and raidiator.
    I can't figure it out.When it happens it seems like its runing out of gas and then it kicks in and then its fine and it doesn't do it all the time but its getting worse, but its still running.
    Oh I did replace the fuel pump about 2 years ago more or less and the cluch. That's about all the major repairs of done to it. Thanks for asking.I hope you can help.
  • I am having the exact same problem, so when you find out let me know too!!
  • rick69rick69 Posts: 5
    I'll let you know as soon as I know.
  • i have no clue, but my jus did summtin like that tonight, and started makin like a deeper sputterin sound... once it got up to speed it was fine, but slowing down and startin was a bit rough..but im takin it to the shop tom.. if i find anything out ill lettaya know
This discussion has been closed.