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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues



  • I have a 93 toyota pickup 2wd.. i been havin problems with my truck it seems to studder or surge whenever im pushin on the brake, it has gotten worse and now it does it whenever im in idle.. it got so bad whenever i pushed all the way down on the brake it would cut off.. so i took it to the shop and they said their was trash in the intake summtin.. aint sure.. I think they said i need a throttle box or summtin it stopped doing it and then resently it started doing it again, so i took it back to a different place and they perofrmed a tune up on it and it still is doing it... is there any ideas.....
  • I was wondering if you ever figured out what was wrong with your truck. Mine has recently started doing the same thing. Mine is much older though. If you could let me know why it bucks when the rpm is high 3-5th gear, I would greatly appreciate it.I was wondering if the cooler temperatures have something to do with it.
  • I bought an old 85 pickup six months ago that had a new engine put in it. It has run great. About two days ago I noticed that when I was in fourth gear and the rpms got up to 3 or above it started bucking and acting like it was losing power. When I took my foot off the gas and let the rpms down it was ok. It doesn't do it in first through third gear, only in fourth when the rpms are above three. If anyone could help me out I would greatly apprciate it.
  • Well to everyone no i havent found the problem yet. My friend works for toyota and he suggested a couple of things. I have not tried yet because not my everydayer. He said try cleaning the mass air flow sensor. He said to spray the diode inside with a brake cleaner that doesnt leave residue. very important!! He said for mine I put a cheap o2 sensor from auto zone and he said nono. What it is is acctually a air/ feul miuxture sensor and aftermarket sensor dont respond as quick as factory ones causeing engine lights and foul running. I now get an engine light when on highway for some reason?? I think my head gasket is gone but havent done a compression check yet. If this helps or if anyone has anyone to add please help cause id like to fix mine too!! thanks
  • I have a 1992 Toyota Pickup 4x4 V6 extra cab 141K miles and I just noticed that the temperature gauge is not working at all. I was out in the truck on a day when it was cold and the heat was working just fine (not sure if this is relevant or not). My question is: How can I test the gauge to make sure it is working OR how can I determine that it is the Thermostat that has gone bad.

    Thanks for any help.
  • my yota used to get worse when it was colder temperatures, but later on it whould just do it all the time. But when it did Once it warmed up it was just a little bit.. I havent had time to go to the shop yet with school and work but once i get the chance ill lettya know..
  • I looked in my Haynes manual and it looks like the temperature sensor for the dashboard guage is near the thermostat housing, at the front of the intake manifold. I know on my 4 cyl it's the sensor with the single thin wire, the one with 2 wires is for the computer. The picture in the manual looks like both of the sensors are right next to each other. First, check and see if the wire leading to it is OK. If the wire is OK, then take off the connector, and hook up a jumper wire from the wire connector to the block, then turn on the ignition - don't start the truck. If the gauge now shows hot, then you need a new sensor. If you have to replace the sensor, make sure you use some teflon tape on the threads so it doesn't spring a leak.
  • My friend has a pick up with a 22re and said that it was up under the intake manifold. The manual says to access it from the front passenger side wheel well, taking off wheel and inner skirts. When he and his grandfather(a former mechanic/auto teacher) did it, they said it took about an hour. I havent done one, but good luck.
  • I recently picked up 2 1987 4x4 pickups with 22r's. The junkyard is willing to sell me all of the components to do one conversion to a 22re on one of the pickups. Does anyone know if the conversion is worth it?(i.e. mpg, power, other expenses)
  • u finally took my yota into the shop and they fixed the dash pot on the trottle box, and then the bottom part where it connected was broken... My truck stopped studdering and its runnin good.. hopefully it will stay that way..thanks for the help
  • My 95 pickup has been giving me problems with the throttle body lately. It will stick slightly open while driving. It's not noticeable while moving, but when you come to a stop the engine is idling high. When I get stopped I can open the hood and physically grab the throttle and close it, that gets it back to normal idle, but of course that's not convenient to do in traffic. I've already removed the throttle body and cleaned and oiled it thoroughly. I even went so far as to get the pricy Toyota brand "throttle body cleaner". I also cleaned the inside of the intake. When I do give it a good cleaning and lubing it works OK for a little while, but, once again, it's not practical. A cleaning might last 300-500 miles before it starts sticking again.

    The throttle cable seems to move with hardly any effort, so I don't think it's bound or kinked anywhere. I've also adjusted the stop screw on the throttle plate and the dashpot, as well as tightened up most of the slack in the cable. In a way it really just seems like my return springs are worn out. Unfortuantely the dealership won't sell just the springs, and they're telling me a new throttle body is almost $500. Has anyone had a problem like this before, or could maybe point me in the right direction?
  • i have a 94 22re engine that i have recently replaced the head gasket on, and in putting it back together i am getting odd compression readings; 65 psi in #1 chamber, 30 psi in #2 chamber, 6 psi in #3 chamber, and nothing in the 4th. what the deuce? any ideas?
  • I am having the same problem. I have taken it to multiple places as well and no one seems to be able to figure it out. However, recently the problem has escalated to this happening while i'm actually driving and the truck will not allow me to go over about 3,000 RPMs or it will just basically shut down until the rpms drop and then it will allow me to increase the rpms again until they hit the 3K mark. This allows me to drive about 35 mph in 5 gear. trust me it's pretty awesome going 35 on the freeway. If you get to the bottom of this please let me know. I'm figuring it must be a computer problem of some kind.
  • The only thing i can tell you is tell them to check the dash pot on the trottle body, that was my problem and the bottom of the trottle body was missin a part bc of all the muddin i guess... But my truck as stopped doin it after i got it fixed..mine never got that bad but it does sound like summtin on the trottle body or in that same area.. i hope you get it fixed.. keep in touch
  • I just had work done on my pickup and now I'm having sputtering problems. Can anyone help?
    Sometimes it does it and some times it doesn't but its getting worse.
    I replaced the fuel filter and it was fine for a couple of days but now its acting up again.
  • is your truck 4 or 6 cyclinder. what kind of repairs did you have done.
  • rick69rick69 Posts: 5
    Its a 4 cyclinder fuel injected 22re engine 5 speed.
    I just had the head gasket replaced,valve job,water pump, timing chain,fuel filter,tune up,and raidiator.
    I can't figure it out.When it happens it seems like its runing out of gas and then it kicks in and then its fine and it doesn't do it all the time but its getting worse, but its still running.
    Oh I did replace the fuel pump about 2 years ago more or less and the cluch. That's about all the major repairs of done to it. Thanks for asking.I hope you can help.
  • I am having the exact same problem, so when you find out let me know too!!
  • rick69rick69 Posts: 5
    I'll let you know as soon as I know.
  • i have no clue, but my jus did summtin like that tonight, and started makin like a deeper sputterin sound... once it got up to speed it was fine, but slowing down and startin was a bit rough..but im takin it to the shop tom.. if i find anything out ill lettaya know
  • rick69rick69 Posts: 5
    Thank you and good luck.
    I'm thinking about taking it to the dealer to see if they can figure out what the problem is.
  • Hey All,

    I own a 91 Toyota 4x4 pickup - 4cyc 22RE stick shift- problem I am having is my turn signals are not working - all the fuses and bulbs are good and the relays are as well. The only thing left is my turn signal flasher - which is part of the problem - I have no idea where it is located. I tore down the interior of my truck yesterday looking for it and to no avail. I found the hazard flasher only - anyone have a idea where it may be? I am out of ideas and running out of patience, I would like to avoid a dealer for something like this which I can usually figure out and fix. All my other lights are functioning normally


  • rick69rick69 Posts: 5
    I've had that same problem.
    Next to the parking brake there are some wires that are under the dash board that is wrapped around with some type of wire protection.(looks like a black snake)
    What I have done in the past is pull down on the wire and you should see your turn signal lights work.
    I've had my signal lights go out my heater wasn't working no turn signals and I also had my running lights go out all because of this problem so try that and see if that works.
    I think there is something there that is disconnecting (some type of plug or something)I haven't takin it apart yet but that worked for me hopefully it will work for you.
    Let me know if it does good luck.
  • So, I have a 1990 toyota sr5 3.0 v6 5 speed, and it will idle at 1600 rpms to 600 rpms. And when it has low rpms and it sputters like itis missing because of timing. And when it is cold after it has been running for 5 or so minutes, when I give it gas it sputters like its out of fuel but this only lasts for a split second.And this problem stops after a mile or so.
    So I replaced the dist. cap and wires and plugs, and 2 of the plugs had a lot of build up like it wasn,t firing. It looked really bad. After doing that it still acts the same.
    So should I replace the fuel filter, or the 02 sensors, or maybe clean the throttle body? SOMEBODY HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
    O YA and it only has 116K original miles, and I just put in a new timing chain, chain tensioners, and the harmonic balancer. any clues??????????
  • My 92 toyota pickup ran fine and then just quit at a stop light. Now it will start and idle just fine but when any load is put on the engine the tach goes crazy (it flips back and forth without any connection to what the engine is doing) and the engine dies. by load I mean turn up the A/C or put it into gear, or push on the break pedal. The other dashboard gauges flip around too. help....
  • i have a 94 v6 with a standard transmission.. lately i've noticed (especially when climbing hills) that the tachometer just flies from around 25000 to sometimes over 4OOO for no reason.. when this happens i lose power and usually have to downshift to get to the gear i need to be in.. does anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this problem... thanks Brett
  • Sounds like your clutch is slipping. That is, assuming that the engine is racing in time with the tach, and that is not just the tach acting odd. I'd check the fluid in the clutch reservoir, and if it's full, then it's probably time to go to the shop.
  • When starting up truck runs fine. After about 2 miles, when stopped with clutch engaged the engines starts to rev up and down. It may be my imagination, but I know that it did it last winter, but not during the summer, and started again this winter. any help would be appreciated
  • Hey guys, I had the same problem in Cleveland Ohio "" weather. I added a can of gas line anit-freeze, the sputtering went away.

  • i just did a head gasket job on my 1993 p/u 3.0 V-6, everyhing went together fine until I got to the vac lines on the passenger side of the throttle body. The engine runs like it is 180 out of timing but it isn't. It seems to be dumping fuel into the intake. I think I have these hoses switched because it runs better when they are plugged.I can't find another one in the area to check out......any ideas????????
  • Hi Everyone,
    I've got a problem with the instrument panel lights on my 88 Toyota 4x4 pick up(22re). They quit working one night. All other running lights are working fine. I checked bulbs & fuses - all fine, replaced all lighting fuses anyway. I've checked the rheostat switch located on the dash - its O.K. I replaced the tail light relay and still no dash lights. The repair manual I have doesn't even show the wiring diagram for dash lights or the rheostat switch. If anyone has any ideas I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks JB
  • my fuel pump not makin any noise could it be a fuse if so where is it also i dont have the cover for the fuse box any one know where i can get a diagram of what all the fuses are
  • Recently purchased a used 1994 Toyota. Dealership (not a Toyota certified dealer) said they had just replaced the water pump. Pump looked like it had been replaced.

    Two weeks later, while driving I notice that my temp guage is nearly in the red, but within seconds it jumps back down to normal operating temp (needle half way on the gauge). Since then, it has been happening regularly: After I start the truck and run it for 5 minutes (or long enough to get the gauge up to half way), the needle starts going towards the red while I'm driving. It'll just barely hit the red and stay there for maybe 20 seconds at the most before it jumps immediately back down to half way. It will do this 2 or 3 times over the next 10-15 minutes. After that, if I continue to drive, it will stop doing this. If I stop for an hour and then drive the cycle will start only stops if you drive for long periods (20+ minutes) of time.

    I have replaced the thermostat (right side up) and still have the problem. I'm getting plenty of heat. Engine fan seems to work fine. No leaks or strange smells. The cooland res is filled to the correct level. & like I said, the dealer has replaced the water pump.

    So, is it possibly the temp guage sensor? I'm thinking of replacing that.
    What should I try next?
    Is it possible there is an air bubble trapped somewhere?
    I'm running out of ideas.
    Any comments greatly appreciated.
    Thanks in advance!
  • try checking your radiator. i had an overheating prob. and i have a 94 also
  • My 93 Toyota pickup (150,000 miles)overheated for the first time this week. Very little has been done to the truck other than routine maintenance - its been a great/reliable and problem free vehicle. What is happening is the temp gage moves to mid range within 5 mins, by about 15 minutes it is redlined. It doesn't get better with idling, it stays high until the engine is shut off/cooled down. I have plenty of heat inside the vehicle as well. Luckily it is cold outside with winter here; so I can at least get to work and back before without major issues. I have no other "symptoms" - everything else is running fine. The day before the overheating started, I was stuck badly in about 2+ feet of snow; took 30 minutes and about 8 men to get unstuck. No "pools" of antifreeze on the ground are evident, and I don't see any spraying from hoses when I pop the hood. But I am obiously losing coolant with the overheating. I top off the system before I drive back & forth to work. I plan to replace hoses, thermostat this weekend, if that doesn't work - then I will look at the radiator next. If anyone has any sure fire thoughts that would help expedite my troubleshooting - please let me know. Thank you!
  • If you are loosing anti-freeze without obvious signs of leaking it, and it's overheating, I would make sure to check the under side of the oil cap. If the under side of the oil cap looks like chocolate milk (creamy brownish oil) then it may be leaking through the head gasket into the oil, or you may have a cracked head.

    It very well could be the thermostat, though. If it only takes a few minutes to redline it in cold weather, then the thermostat could be stuck closed, and you're losing coolant through the overflow bottle. When it overheats, and you shut it off to cool down, do you hear a rattling\bubbling sound? Kind of like water boiling inside the overflow bottle? That might be it.
  • Thank you! I do see coolant clinging to the truck carriage parts under the overflow reservoir and radiator (on the drivers side only), and the bottom radiator hose has coolant on/under it. The center part of the truck and passenger side below the radiator appear dry, as well as the top radiator hose is dry. Yes, I hear the "gurgling", but it seems to be coming from the radiator, as by the time I hear it and can check it, the reservoir is empty.
  • Well, as long as the under sie of the oil cap looks normal (dark brown/black oil) then I'd have to venture that it's your thermostat stuck closed. It may cost a few more dollars, but I'd recomend getting one from the dealership. It will be the proper temp, and they will have the proper fitting rubber seal. Make sure to get a new seal with it! I can't speak for the V6, but on my 22re you don't use any silicone on the rubber seal, just clean the surfaces thoroughly, then get a new seal, and tighten the housing bolts properly. Also, make sure to note what side of the thermostat is facing "up" when you take the housing off, and reinstall the new one in the same direction.
  • My 93 S w/d toy had same issue turn out was a short in turn signal lamp in left front bumper...good luck
  • 93 2 W/d has suffered greatly over the years so inner fenders and middle cross beam are bent up and no longer viable. Anyone know is the whole front clip welded on? a bolt on job or combination? I have replaced fenders n hood with no isue it is the underlying structure i desperately need help with as i have minimum tools and skills . Any ideas or anyone with parts? thanks
  • Hey Everybody -
    Need some help. Noticed today that the brake lights stayed on even after turning off lights and ignition. I figure it might be the tail light relay, but I can't find out where it is (checked Haynes). I had to pull the neg terminal on the battery to turn off. Any ideas and/or can anyone provide location of the relay? I've searched the internet with no luck. Thanks!
  • That relay might be one of the ones in the engine compartment fuse box. Also might be the brake light switch being stuck closed. That should be at the top of the brake pedal, behind the dash.
  • jmershonjmershon Posts: 1
    I recently had to replace my old bumper and everything went well until the license plate lights. The instructions showed one wire coming off each of the lights from the license plate - but instead I have two wires coming off each light (black & red). I have wired this may different ways to no avail. On my old bumper I had one wire going to each light. Help anyone? Thanks!
  • I have a 1980 sr5, 2wd, longbed. Just replaced the radiator this morning b/c thermostat shot up to redline and b/c a visible geyser of coolant steam could be seen shooting out of the radiator body an inch from the upper hose (hot, inbound).

    I drove it after replacing the radiator and the coolant/water, and it redlined again after about 10 minutes! This time, a small geyser of coolant steam was seen where the upper hose connects to the engine.

    I removed and inspected the hose (nothing).

    I let it sit for an hour and drove 10 minutes. It redlined!!! But, nowhere could I see coolant steam spewing out.

    Any ideas what could be causing this overheating???

    Is there a thermostat in the engine that may be broken in a 'closed' position, thereby keeping the coolant from circulating?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Yup, sounds like a thermostat to me. Follow that upper radiator hose back towards the engine. On top of the engine at the end of that hose, you should see the "dome" of the thermostat housing with 2 12mm bolts holding it down. Open that up and get a new one in there. Make sure to note which side is "up" when you take that housing off, and put the new one in there facing the same way. I'd suggest going to the dealership, they'll have the proper temp thermostat, and the propper fitting rubber seal that goes around it.
  • Thanks! Quickly though: I note that the upper hose it quite hot to the touch...indicating that coolant is coming from the engine (and that the thermostat maybe is not broken shut). Could this mean, therefore, that the water pump is likely shot?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Probably not, the radiator hoses are supposed to get hot after running the engine for a little while. In my experience, you can tell a water pump is bad when you actually see water (antifreeze) leaking out of it. I'd try the thermostat first, it's a cheap, quick fix. Just make sure you put it in facing the right way, and you fill your radiator back up with the proper mixture of antifreeze.
  • carenda1carenda1 Posts: 2
    Help, 94 pick up with same problem. And I am certainly not a mechanic.
  • carenda1carenda1 Posts: 2
    Ok heres the deal, I replaced one relay under the hood in the fuse box, it immediatly blew that relay, so I swapped out the one next too it and all those systems(wipers, blower motor, power windows) worked again but when I changed the relays back to their original spots with new ones the truck wouldn't start. It turns over, but sounds like the fuel pump is not working. Any ideas, i am certainly not a mechanic. Maybe it is the fuel pump relay, and does anyone know where it is?
  • jeanniewjeanniew Posts: 2
This discussion has been closed.