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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues

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  • Hi,
    I have an 88 Toyota 4x4 pickup with a V6 3.0L engine. it has 180,000 miles on it. I did a full tune up 5000 miles ago with new: Spark plugs, wires, distributer cap and rotor. I just replaced the air filter and oil 10-40W. I live near Detroit and the engine has a very hard time starting in the cold weather. the truck starts fine in warm weather. But when its cold it will take about 6 or 8 tries of turning the engine over, before it will start. The starter will engage and turn the engine but it has a hard time starting. When the engine does start, it misses real bad, for about 15 to 20 seconds, then starts idling normally. I checked the plugs and they have a brown tint to them but they are not that worn. Any suggestions to whats causing the problem? or how I can fix this myself?
  • Just change the clutch 4 months ago. Has been running like a top. Today it just started to slip out of 3/4/5 gear. :sick:
    What are the things I should look into?
  • Check your timing it might need adj?
  • If by "slips out of gear" you mean the stick shifter itself pops out of position and puts itself into neutral, then you need to check into the shifter bushings. There are 2 sets of them inside the shifter assembly. One upper and one lower. If it feels hard to get the stick properly into each of those gear positions that you listed, try this: Pull upwards on the stick while shifting into that gear, if it slips right in and stays put, or stays put a little longer than before, then you almost certainly need shifter bushings. Sorry I can't explain all about how to get to them but, I know you don't have to pull the tranny. Most shifter assemblies can be accessed from sitting inside the truck. Do a google search for "Toyota truck shifter bushings" and you'll find a few online articles that should help you along quite nicely.
  • My 94 had this same problem. In my case it turned out the the oxygen sensor wiring had contacted the exhaust manifold and melted the insulation and caused a direct short.
  • i need to change a headlamp in my 1990 pickup; however, i can't locate the lower radiator clips. any suggestions on how to recognize these?
  • You shouldn't need to take apart the grille to get the headlights changed. On my '95 there's a bezel around the lights that you have to undo (2 screws), then unplug the clip from the back, and the headlight comes right out. Just make sure the screws you start turning are for the bezel and not for adjusting the aim of the headlights.
  • I did alot of looking and found that a couple of the grounding points had corrosion on them . cleaned them up and tightened them down and all works well
  • I have a Toyota truck 1993 with 89 thousand original miles and it is a 4wd. I was wondering if it would be good enough to pull a bass boat. Any info would be greatfull
  • 93 pickup with stick, 3VZ-E engine, cranks but will not start (no spark, no injector pluse) if trucks sits for day will start and run fine. It may run for 10 minutes or up to 2 or 3 day of light driving. I swap the efi relay with starter relay, seams ok, ohmed out dist. pick up back to ecm, specs are good. what next?
  • I have a 1987 body with a 1988 3VZ-EFI V6 engine. I just replaced the radiator and now I need the following information from one who has this type of engine or knows something about it. Where on the engine is the cooling system thermostat? I think it runs 180 degrees and I wonder if I can replace it with 195 thermostat? Also, what pressure radiator cap should I be using? This will increase the operating temperature, will it not? :cry:
  • Hi, Be careful changing the oxy sensor. I have two older pickups where someone changing the sensors has screwed up the fasteners, probably professionals.
  • Hi tech007 Congratulations on finding a considerate Toyota dealer. I am having problems reading emission codes and have bought a Chilton manual which tells me how to jump the two wires and read the light flashes. Great...except there are three wires and no light in the schematic or on the instrument panel. I contacted Huntington Beach Toyota and was told'"we are in business to do repairs, not to tell others how to do their own. I am happy to hear others treat their customers better...Clintb32
  • Hi 4x Have you tried tightening the belts? A loose belt under load can make quite a racket...Clintb
  • Hi Jan...It could be very interesting to find why the radiator needed cleaning. Usually it is required because of other problems...like overheating...Good luck...Clintb32
  • Hi Fuller, Sounds like a battery problem. Either a low battery or poor connections. A bad starter could also be a culprit as well as a bad solenoid or a poor connection between the battery and the starter.
    Measure your battery voltage at the battery terminals...not the connector clamps and dig the meter contacts into the metal so you have good contact. Have someone try the starter (don't overdue it, a few seconds should do). The battery voltage should drop to 9V or lower if the solenoid is working and switching properly and the starter is working. Now measure the voltage at the battery connectors as the starter is energized. The voltage should be the same. a lower voltage indicates poor terminal contact, a very common problem resolved by cleaning the contact areas. Too low voltage in both instances is most probably either a bad battery or bad starter. By the way a solenoid that clicks is not necessarily making contact...Good luck...ClintB
  • Hi baf, It sounds like you didn't get the timing chain indexed properly..Clintb32
  • Hi Rob, Have you checked to see if the radiator is plugged? One way this happens is from a bad radiator cap. The rubber gasket can have tiny cracks that leak steam, requiring an occasional addition of coolant. Over a period of time the coolant becomes saturated with minerals and begins depositing on the inner surfaces of the radiator tubes, reducing the cooling capacity or your radiator, until one warm day when the system overheats and boils, depositing even more with catastrophic results. Using distilled water reduces this problem, as does checking the radiator cap gasket. Good luck...Clint
  • Hello dust A man after my own heart I tremor each time I have to let those screw-ups work on any of my vehicles. The distilled water also works well in your radiator by the way and keeps buildup down. Also make sure lug bolts are not overtightened. A friend lost a wheel because of that and I have several broken wrench adapters from that in addition to having to find a piece of pipe to use as an extension when I had a flat in a remote location. Right now I am having a problem reading the trouble code on an 86 pickup. Chilton says short two wires...their own manual and the California socket has three. It says watch the light...the Chilton schematic shows no light and there is none in the dash. The dealer, Toyota of Huntington Beach tells me," we are in business to fix vehicles, not to tell people how to fix their own" and after many hours on the net, I cannot find an appropriate phone number or email address for Toyota. Also in searching Toyota, code, up comes a big joke...a CODE OF ETHICS...take care...Clint
  • Hi flk, Sounds like you may have a plugged radiator. Look down into the filler and check for deposit on the inside of tubes. A small steam leak from a bad radiator cap can cause mineral buildup in the water which can in turn deposit in the tubes. Using distilled water can reverse this, but you need to change it often, and eliminate any leaks, however small...Good luck...Clintb
  • Hi landdriver, I have an 86 5spd 2WD with 234,000 and friend with one with 600,000 but he changes oil religiously...Good luck Clint
  • Hi Issa, If you have a small evaporative leak in the cooling system, the mineral concentration in your coolant will build up to the point where it will begin to deposit out. It will seek out the coolest part of the system to lodge, (the tubes of the radiator). This can be detected by observing the tops of the tubes by looking down the radiator filler opening. A bad gasket on your radiator cap is the usual culprit and the problem can be minimized and sometimes reversed by flushing often and using distilled water.
  • Hi Issa, If you have a small evaporative leak in the cooling system, the mineral concentration in your coolant will build up to the point where it will begin to deposit out. It will seek out the coolest part of the system to lodge, (the tubes of the radiator). This can be detected by observing the tops of the tubes by looking down the radiator filler opening. A bad gasket on your radiator cap is the usual culprit and the problem can be minimized and sometimes reversed by flushing often and using distilled water.
    Good luck...Clintb32
  • Hi turkeyt, I am happy you were able to download your codes so easily. My truck is a California Toyota 1986 with a 22R engine. The California connector is located in front of the coil on the driver's side. The Chilton manual says to jumper the two wires, except there are three. It also says to observe the trouble light for the codes. Neither the Chilton schematic or my truck show a light. When contacting Huntington Beach Toyota, I was told, "we are in business to repair cars not to help people to repair their own". Other dealers have been more helpful, but I still have not been able to download the trouble codes. Any info will be appreciated, including phone numbers or email address for Toyota...Thanks...Clintb32
  • Hi turkeyt, I am happy you were able to download your codes so easily. My truck is a California Toyota 1986 with a 22R engine. The California connector is located in front of the coil on the driver's side. The Chilton manual says to jumper the two wires, except there are three. It also says to observe the trouble light for the codes. Neither the Chilton schematic or my truck show a light. When contacting Huntington Beach Toyota, I was told, "we are in business to repair cars not to help people to repair their own". Other dealers have been more helpful, but I still have not been able to download the trouble codes. Any info will be appreciated, including phone numbers or email address for Toyota...Thanks...Clintb32
  • Hi scot The cause of your problem could have been an evaporative leak in your cooling system. A radiator cap with tiny cracks could be the culprit or some other leak above the water line. This can go unnoticed until the mineral concentration in the coolant builds up to the point that it deposits on the cooler areas of the system, like inside the radiator tubes. Distilled water,replaced occasionally can minimize or even reverse the problem...Clintb32
  • Hi scott again Remember the distilled water can redissolve some of the crud. The higher the temperature, the more it dissolves...Clintb32
  • Hi tony, If you have an evaporative leak, you need to change your coolant often and use distilled water so that the minerals in the water do not condense in the radiator tubes...Good luck ..Clintb32
  • Hi 86 I have an 83 with a similar problem ever since I changed my timing chain. For some reason the timing cover hole does not center on the crankshaft. I machined a location bushing, but have not had the time to finish the job. You may not have that problem, but you might check to be sure and make sure the mating surface of the pulley is clean and smooth. Completely removing the radiator makes the job much easier, only don't leave it unattended in the back of the truck to get stolen like mine did. Good luck...Clintb32
  • Hi c, When you replace the water use distilled, Distilled does not carry the minerals that precipitate out and clog the radiator tubes when it evaporates. Good luck...Clintb32
  • Hi paul, Did you mean tighten rather than release the bleeder screws? Clintb32
  • I have a1986 22R pickup with carburation problems. At startup the engine smokes and idles rough. After several miles of driving the engine smooths out but idles fast. It is past due for smog test and gas mileage is bad. Timing is a little advanced and mixture is lean, hoses and PCV are in order. The O2 sensor was replaced with one from a working engine but the converter is old. At this point I expect both are sooted and need replacing. First, though, I would like to read the codes.
    In attempting to read the codes and understand a little more about the system, I bought a Chilton manual. The Chilton manual for the 86 pickup shows how to jump the two test connector and tells how to read the resulting codes on the instrument panel trouble light. Problem...the connector has three wires and there is no trouble(check engine) light. In an attempt to resolve this little problem I made a visit to Toyota of Huntington Beach where i was told they could not help and besides "we are in business to repair vehicles, not to tell others how to repair their own."
    Other dealers have been more reasonable and I was told to jump the white wire to the light green wire with the red stripe. Then I found there was no light on the panel or on the Chilton schematic. I suspect the third wire may be the answer, but after 50 years in electronics, I hesitate to make unknown connections.
    After many hours on the net, I have not found a phone number or email for Toyota that can answer my question and hope someone on this forum can. It would be greatly appreciated.
  • HI, Just to let you know I'm only a weekend mechanic but this is the same engine as mine. The thermostat is located just behind the 90 deg elbow, on your engine block, were your bottom radiator hose is connected to. There are three nuts holding the right angle elbow to the block. the book says to note witch end is facing up when removing your thermostat. I also had over heating problems on my engine and it turned out that the timing belt was stretched and needed replacing. the timing belt actually runs the water pump behind all the covers on the front of the engine., I did not change my timing belt in time and I blew a head gasket. So its crucial that you fix your over heating problem especially in the winter. I hope that helps. I don't know about the pressure of the radiator cap or the temp. on the thermostat. good luck :)
  • 94 Toyota 4WD, 4 Cyl, pickup

    Was driving down the road, when it started to cut out and died. After waiting awile and continued cranking of the engine the pick-up started up. If driving carefully with throttle the pick ran for awile and then started cutting out and died again. This continued for about 20 miles, until it would not start at all.

    Tried:
    Changing Fuel Filter --didn't work
    cold start fuel port had fuel in intake, fuel system seems to be ok
    I checked ignition, no spark
    There is elect current up to coil but none to distributor.
    Replaced soil, pick-up still doesn't have any spark.

    Any ideas? Thnaks for looking.
  • A few minutes after operating temp is reached, the engine starts missing and I lose horsepower. I am pretty sure the fourth cylinder is not firing. Pulled the spark plug wires one by one - when I pull the last one it has no effect so I figure it's that cyl. I am getting spark to that cylinder, and the plugs are new. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Check you distributor cap and rotor. If they are fine, then you might want to check the compression in all cylinders.
  • !990 6 cyl. won't hardly pull itself out of driveway. Replaced plugs, rotor, cap, filters. When I hit the throttle it makes a sound like an exhaust leak on pass. side, but I see no sign of a leak. On the road it is a slug until 3000-4000 when it smooths out and pulls good. Sprayed start fluid around vacuum hoses with no change. Any ideas?
  • i have the same problem what did you find out to fix the problem have changed the same things i can mash the gas and it will not move
  • I have a 94 toyota pickup my speedometer don't work well it does sometimes when it rains what should i look for to fix it
  • It sounds like the electronic speedometer connector has a short. I'm not sure about the automatic transmission, but on a manual the connector is on the passenger's side of the transmission, close to the back. It'll be almost the only wires you see coming out of that end of the transmission. Examine the wires, and see if any have rubbed through the insulation to bare wire. If there are bare spots, then maybe you could tape them with electrical tape. If the wires/connector seem OK, then you want to carefully take out the sensor and examine the gear(s) on the end of it. If the gear is worn out, then you'll need a new sensor. If all that seems OK, then you'll probably need to take it into a mechanic, or a specialty shop that deals with speedometers, gauges, and electrical problems.
  • I was given a 85 xcab 4x4 with 119,000 9 years ago. Box was rusted. Since than
    I completely rebuilt the 22R FI engine. Has 2000 miles on rebuilt. All axles and
    Auto trans have amsoil fluid and are perfect. Locking hubs. Cab body in good shape
    with new front fenders. Have snow plowed my driveway for the last 6 years with
    a 6' alumium blade with a western plow frame and controls. Best traction truck
    I have ever seen, but the frame is going fast from rust. Will a newer toyota pickup
    accept the front axle and springs with using my old steering box and steering
    column. Perhaps a 94. Have too much invested in engine and body too junk.
    Truck now has 145,000 on it. Need Advise. Bob
  • zaggizaggi Posts: 2
    I'm looking into buying a friends 89 Toyota pickup for $800, the body is in great shape and the tires are all good. The engine runs pretty well to me, it's a 5 speed tranny and isn't lacking any power it seems. There were a few things I noticed though, in higher rpms there's a quite loud squeal, I'm told it's the fan belt and should be replaced or tightened, sounded true enough to me. Is that something I can easily do myself? Also, if going uphill or even a gentle hill it will pop out of 5th gear, I've heard that a bushing can fix that, though I guess if you're going uphill you don't need to be in 5th gear anyway. I looked over the engine and everything looked okay, I'm not much of a mechanice though. The drivers side blinker is missing, and the bumper is an aftermarket one and is mounted crooked. The grill has a bit damage as if someone hit it with a bat. Just wondering if everyone thought this would be a good purchase. Thanks.
    -Josh
  • Sounds good to me. Belts are cheap enough to replace. $10 each, give or take. The shifter bushings are the likely culprit for the transmission popping out of gear. They shouldn't cost more than $150 at your local mechanic. A turn signal lens/bulb is easy to replace, just a few screws, and the light is most likely available at your local junk yard.
  • zaggizaggi Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I just noticed an error I made in my post, the truck IS an 86, not an 89. But I'm pretty much set on buying it. For $800 I guess I can't go wrong, I know of alot of people who pay $500-$800 on a vehicle that doesn't even run, so I think I'm getting a decent deal here. I'll definitely take a drive down to the local Pick-A-Part junkyard and see if I can't find some stuff to make her look a bit better. :D Anyway, thanks again. Any other advice or tips would be awesome too.
    -Josh
  • For some time now, my 93 pickup with the 3.0 VZE has been sounding like it spark knocks when traveling at speeds above 55mph. It really seems to get bad when the cruise is set at about 65 while traveling on the interstate. When it does this, I let off and then speed back up. This seems to help for a short time until it starts again. I am worried that it is the beginning of big problems, considering it has 168K miles. Does this sound like it is the main bearing or something like lifters ticking? I had one mechanic look at it and he said that it was just old, and things like this are normal. Personally I am afraid to drive it long distances anymore, so I use it as an around town truck. Has anyone experienced the same thing or does anyone know if I just need to have the engine overhauled?
  • esb43505esb43505 Posts: 1
    I'm currently having the same problem, kind of intermittent. '94 4-cylinder. when it's acting up it idles ~ 500 rpm, sounds rough and about to stall out. when driving, I can also floor the pedal and just about no response, then around 3000 rpm there's a surge and the engine starts to pull. I've also replaced the plugs/cap/rotor. some days the truck is just fine. sometimes seems to be associated with damp weather, but not always.
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    I was having a similar problem on my '95 4 cyl. It was more intermittent, though. It would run just fine when first starting it up. After driving around for a little while and getting the engine up to, or close to, operating temperature, park it for a few minutes to cool off. After restarting, then it would have horrible power in the low end, but it only lasted for a little while until the engine was hot again. It also gave a rich burning smell from the exhaust. I figured out that it might be the O2 sensor, since I recently replaced it, and took it back to the parts store on warranty. Since I've replaced it with the new one, the truck runs just fine. I'm waiting to see if the problem comes back, since this is the first time I've replaced the O2 sensor with an after market one. If this one fails, I guess I'll have to do my best to get my money back and get a Toyota one from the dealer. I guess you should check your O2 sensor and see if the heater element is burned up, or maybe if it's all together bad.
  • jettafacejettaface Posts: 15
    Had this under Tacoma until I saw this site. Adding here.
    Hi, I have a 1989 Toyota SR5 4x4 4 cyc pickup with 66,000 miles on it. I just luv this toy. Friend gave me 2 new exhaust mufflers. Can't find a name on them but they are cyclinder in shape, about 2 feet long and red....I know..nice info. But I was thinking of putting both of these on and now am wondering if I could screw up back pressure, etc.? Maybe I should just leave well enough alone, but I sure would like to hear a little growl when I take off. Second childhood I guess. Any suggestions? Thanks much.
  • ibartrumibartrum Posts: 1
    I have a 94 P/U (V6) that has trouble starting after its been driven more than 20 minutes. It turns over, but then acts like the fuel supply runs out and stalls. If I wait about 15 minutes I can get it to start. Mechanics are mystified...has anyone had this problem? Thanks...
  • toyota18toyota18 Posts: 1
    Hey Shubros or jbryan ,did u find ur problem cause i have the same prob right now and i didnt the trouble yet ! again 91 Toyota starts but wont run more than 2 sec
    Thanks
This discussion has been closed.