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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues



  • scottybobscottybob Posts: 7
    mine was only overheating on the highway for more than 20 min drive. i had it at the dealorship and they couldnt figure out the problem the first time so they thought it was the thermostat. well that wasnt the problem so i took it back and still they were stumped on it unless i wanted to pay money to have them figure it out. but i got a free thermostat woo hoo for free.
    well it was driving me crazy but i prob talked to about 20 people and my mechanic. me and my mechanic came up with the idea that my radiator could be bad. he told me on the phone that with toyota trucks and cavaliers and ford econoline vans have the same problem. he said the difference between these radiators and the other ones is they flow up and down compared to side to side. so all the crud and crap can sit in the bottom and plug the cooling tubes. he told me to bring it down and he was gonna do a laser test on it to see if the temp is the same all over the radiator and the hoses and everywhere the cooling fluid runs.
    well come to find out there was a 90 deg diference between the top and bottom. well i went out to my auto shop and spent 180.00$ on the radiator, both hoses, and the cap. i didnt need fluid cause they put new fluid in when they switched out the thermostat. changed out those three things and it hasnt overheated yet. i drove from michigan to florida to missisippi and back to florida and it hasnt overheated yet.
    on the old radiator when it was drained i shined a light down in the fill hole and come to find out there was about a 3rd of the cooling tubes plugged.
    so i hope that info works for you.
    if that is your problem and you decide to replace the radiator dont skimp and just buy the radiator. replace everything that i did and you should change out the fluid also to be on the safe side. depends on where your at but it shouldnt run you more than 300$ on all of it. depends on the warranty you get on the radiator could determine the price. :)
    good luck let me know what you come up with
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    I have a '93 2wd pickup with the 22RE EFI engine. When warm, the AC compressor cuts out below 800 RPM. A friend and I tried raising the idle permanently, but I found it not practical to drive that way.

    Does anyone know a way to adjust so it will not cut out the compressor until it gets down to 600 RPM?

    Btw, the truck has 230,000 miles on it and runs great otherwise.

    Thanks in advance,
    - Paul
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    I recently had a similar problem with my 95. The compressor would remain on while driving, but while idling it would cut in and out. I found that when I topped off the freon at the beginning of the summer that I had put in a little too much. Have you recently added freon to your system? Otherwise, I know in some cars the A/C compressor can cut out when the freon is too low, in order to prevent compressor damage.
  • wdpwdp Posts: 9
    I recently replaced the plug wires on my 95 pick-up with a 3VZE 6-cylinder engine. I suspected that there might be places where the wires were arcing. I checked under the hood after dark tonight and the wires looked like they were glowing in many places with all kinds of places where they appeared to be arcing. Is it typical to see this sort of thing or would a good set of wires prevent any observing of electrical activity?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    I have a 95 std cab 4 cyl, 5 spd. with 383K miles. Recently the main problem I've had has been with the alternator/charging system. I've replaced the alternator, checked the ground wires, charged and recharged the battery, swapped out the alternator fuse. I really don't want to go chasing through the wiring harness, but I'm afraid that's where this is leading. My truck has a lot of little problems, but this is the big one. It's the main problem that keeps me from driving the truck, mainly because I'd have to get a jump start everywhere I go.

    The other puzzling problem I have is in the cooling system. The truck overheats while it is shut off. If I start it, and run it long enough to get to normal temperature. (Especially in hot weather) Then shut it off, and wait for 5-10 minutes, then restart the engine, my temperature guage will show almost all the way to the red. Is it possible that this is just a problem with the guage itself? Or is there really heat building up while the engine is off?

    Any help will be welcome.
  • Used to have a great running 84 Toyota pickup that ran great right up till the time I wrecked it. So after a few years of missing it I spotted a truck just sitting. So I bought it. An 89 toyota v6 non-running. Now I need some help. It has about 200,00 on it. Its all there. It will run for a few seconds on starting fluid. Pulled the tank. Found some bad electrical connections and pinholes in the pickup tube. Going to replace that. The fuel pump runs when hooked to the batery directly. It will run when cranking the engine. Should it run when the key is just on also? Like when the dash lights come on? How do you check the relays? Any help appreciated. Thanks
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Thanks pauliep13, I will get that checked.

    - Paul
  • rayncraync Posts: 2
    I am a new owner of a 93 Toyota 22re. As soon as turn the key to the run position the 15 amp ATC fuse for the EFI will blow. The EFI relay has been changed and is good. Remove the relay and the fuse doesn't blow. Computer was swapped with no result. The fuel pump has been removed and tested (OK). There are no other problems with the truck. A mechanic told me I need a new engine harness and the only way to get one is with a new (USED engine or call a dealer) either way it will be around $1300 for the parts. I have a Hayes manual but don't know where all the sensors and plug locations are. I have just had a liver transplant and money is very tight. Please Help!

    Thanks in advance- Ray
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    ...please do not include your email address in your messages! We have no control over who will use it if you do, and it's more beneficial if answers are shared here, in case others have the same issue.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • hey i have a 94 22re p/u. Its got 208,000 on it and runt pretty good. My question is the it gets really hot really quick. like if i let it run for about 5 minutes the oil filter is extremely hot and radiator is untouchable. when you take the oil cap off light smoke or steam comes out. i did change thermostat bacause had a fail safe in it and was stuck open. all knew parts, water pump, timing chain, headers, throttle position sensor. o2 sensor, etc. The temp gauge shows normal temp but does rise high on highway. Wasnt sure if this is normal for these engines to run that warm. I also have needed to add coolant but i did have leeky hose and it sat for some time so some evaporation. please help. thanks :shades:
  • I have a 95 with the 22re also. It had 36K miles when I bought it and has always seemed like it ran hot to me. I remember the first time I checked the oil, I thought I burned myself on the dipstick. I would say that if the gauge reads normal, and it's not boiling over, then I wouldn't worry about it.
  • utfesekutfesek Posts: 2
    I have a 93 Toyota pickup, 3.0L 5spd manual, 279k miles. About half a month ago, whenever i would turn on the AC, about five minutes afterwards, water would begin dripping out of the floor vents. If i took any kind of decent turn or brake, a larger quantity of water would spill out, soaking the floorboard. Any ideas on the problem here. I have a Haynes manual for my truck, but can't find any help there. Thanks.
  • That sounds like you have a build up in your A/C drip line. Usually as condensation builds up on the evaporator the water will drip out of a small metal line from the bottom. If dirt or mold/mildew builds up in the line, then it has no where to go but up, and out of the next lowest relief point. That would probably be your floor vents. If you can find the drip line, (usually a small diameter metal line coming from the firewall under the hood, on the passenger side) then you can clean it out with a pipe cleaner or some kind of soft wire. If you do choose to clean it out yourself, be careful. If you run a piece of wire up the drip line too far, then you can damage the evaporator!! I had a friend with a Ford that had a similar problem, the mechanic charged him less than $50 to fix it. Might be worth taking it in to the shop.
  • utfesekutfesek Posts: 2
    Thanks a lot. I'll check that out.
  • rayncraync Posts: 2
    :) Sorry for email address. We found the short under the front end of the EFI where the harness splits. The trucks runs pretty good. It has 298,500 miles and burns or leaks any oil. Can any one tell me how to know if the timing chain needs replacing? Also looking for the best place to buy parts (body & mechanical).

  • As far as the timing chain, I'd say the fact that you're pushing 300K is the best way to tell. 300K is when I had the chain done on my truck, the mechanic showed it to me when I picked up my truck and it was fairly well worn. Other than that I have no idea how to tell without taking the chain out and measuring it. If you're looking for good body parts there's an all Yota junk yard in Ft Worth, TX they have over 2 dozen pre Tacoma trucks with good body parts, and engines and transmissions, too. If you're talking about smaller parts I usually stick with the larger chain stores like Napa, or O'reilleys.
  • OK here it is... 86 4x4 22re leaks a ton of oil out of the front of the engine. I talked to a guy who has worked at a oil change/tune-up shop for 10+ years and he said that my oil leak was coming from the harmonic balancer/oil pump area and that there is a kit available with new o-rings and gaskets and other junk. He said that he has seen several trucks with the same problem and the very fact that they made a kit for it leads him to the same conclusion. Has anyone else ever used or even seen this kit available? Right now i just hit the 200,000 mark and the only thing wrong with my truck is the freakin oil leak. Somebody help!
  • I had the same problem that very slowly got worse over a few years. Cold the engine would run fine, warm it would idle slower, make a coughing sound and shake, pumping the brakes would make it almost die sometimes. After adjusting the valves the problem seems to have completely gone away. Hope this helps.
  • jks4jks4 Posts: 1
    Had my 1988 4WD Toyota DX brake lines replaced as well as the thermostat. Something he noticed but I knew also was the engine kind of lags on acceleration with a warm engine at times. The truck only has 70,000 miles on it and is pretty much locally driven which would probably explain some of that. (Had a company work truck for many years which accounts for the low mileage)

    He suggested putting in some "Toyota" fuel injector cleaner to kind of clean things out a little. Is he pulling my leg by promoting the use of the Toyota brand or will any good fuel injector cleaner work?
  • :confuse: :cry: I've got a 1994 Toyota Pickup; I did an oilchange onit, but upon taking off the oil filter, there was no oil in the oil filter...., I repalced the filter with the new one, then filled the motor with 5 quarts of oil and then the dipstick did not read anything.... I'm thinking maybe my oil pump has gone bad, but I'm not sure; any ideas? And if it is the oil pump where is it and ow do I repalce it???? Please help!?!
  • Yeah, man. That sounds a little fishy. I've always put in Berryman's B-12 carburetor/injector cleaner in my truck and it keeps it running just fine. You can find it at any parts store and it's $3.50 a can. Every time I change my oil I put in one can to one full tank of gas. I'd try that before getting the fancy dealership additive.
  • My 94 toyota has some issues and I need some help. So I am gonna start from the beginning:

    For the past couple of weeks, I'd be driving down the road and the "yota" would kick forward almost as if the engine has shut off (but it didn't) and then it would buck a couple of times. Then it would drive fine. It kept doing this, progressively getting worse. Finally it started idling really rough when i would start it, and it would kick out black smoke, and eventually die. When I would try to start it back up, it wouldn't start, it just kept cranking. So to try to fix this problem, I replaced the fuel filter (which is a ROYAL PAIN IN THE [non-permissible content removed]!!!), air filter & spark plugs. It already has a new starter. I also had a slight radiator leak so I drained the radiator and added antifreeze & stop leak. The truck, after a couple of hiccups, ran like a champ.

    Then after about a week or so, I noticed it starting to run Hot. Not overheat but to the point I would turn on my heater to try and keep it a little cooler. It appears my water pump is now leaking, so I am going to replace it & my thermostat. I think this should fix my heating issue. But after warming up, the yota kinda hiccups and shuts off. And again, it just cranks not start. After about five-ten minutes it will, but what the f#@k? My check engine light comes on periodically and shuts off after a little bit. Is this connected to the heating issue? What could cause these problems? SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • Well, man, I don't know if it's all related, but I do know that Autozone's pretty much nationwide will run the codes from your computer for free. That'll at least tell you why the check engine light is comming on.
  • Thanks for the reply, I live right around the corner from autozone. I'll take it over there and see what they say.

    Just FYI today I changed my waterpump, thermostat, both belts, and did a completely flushed my radiator. The truck isn't leaking anymore, and it's not running hot. But it'll run fine for a while, then choke up and die. I am starting to think it's a vacuum leak or something. F#$@ING SMOG SH#%!!
  • No problem, and BTW while you're at autozone ask 'em for a can of Berryman's B-12. It's the best fuel system cleaner I've found. It's worth a shot and it's only $3.50 a can.
  • Its sounds ike you have the overheating part figured out. The hiccuping and the slight coolant leak sounds like a head gasket leak. If the air leaks into the cylinder, it will run extremely lean and cause a very rough idle. If it is a 4-cylinder, this will cause sever for awhile and improve the driveabiltiy like you reported.

    Perform a compression check on the motor to verify this diagnosis.
  • Unfortunately, what I have to say is not good news.

    Your problem is exactly the same as my problem with my 92 3.0L V-6. I also had codes 14, 25, and 26. I replaced the Os sensor, cap and rotor, and refitt all of the electrical wires. Eventually, I got it down to just code 25, but the engine started idling roughly. It would still run fine at speed with a very slight loss in power.

    I went out and got a compression tester, and checked the engine today. The number 4 cylinder has almost no compression, anbd I noticed a slight oil leak above the plug hole. Diagnosis: a leaking head gasket (again). Last time it was between adjacent cylinders (4 and 6), which had a more noticeable effect at idle.

    Perform a compression test on your engine, especially cylinders 4 and 6 since they are the ones that usually go bad. A blown gasket will be readily apparent with a pressure of well below 100psi. These engines had a recall for a badly designed head gasket, which was blowing frequently. Toyota replaced these gaskets with a supposedly redesigned gasket. I think they just installed a new one of the same design. Either that or the problem is with the head design rather than the gasket.

    Other symptoms would be a coolant or oil leak if the gasket leak is bad, and poor gas mileaage compared to past mileage.

    P.S. The raw gas being dumped by a leaking cyclinder could have comtaminated your new O2 sensor.
  • 4 cly, auto. Starts and idles fine. When driven it dies and can be driven if you constantly baby the throttle. If you accelerate it in neutral, it dies or sometimes will rev up if you mess with it long enough. Check engine light is not on.

    Put on a new fuel pump and filter. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. No change. Any help would be appreciated.
  • I'm pretty sure you need to check your Idle Air Control valve (IAC) that's a common problem with automatics of many makes.
  • It runs fine at idle. It dies when you try to drive it. I thought the IAC only adjusted the idle speed. Is that correct?

    I didn't see a MAFS, just a big box with a flap. I assume it does the same thing. I'll have to figure out how to check it.

This discussion has been closed.