2017 Toyota RAV4 Purchasing Deals and Prices
Please report on your shopping experiences and deals you've made in this discussion for your '17 RAV4.
When asking for pricing info, please include your region, city or zip code and let everyone know if you are shopping AWD or FWD.
When asking for pricing info, please include your region, city or zip code and let everyone know if you are shopping AWD or FWD.
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I got quoted from multiple dealership for the 2017 Rav4 XLE and this seem to the lowest at the moment. This is base on Orange County, CA tax and fees.
MSRP: 26830
Sale price: 25600 (round up)
tax + fees: 2400 (round up)
OTD : 28000.00 (round up) give or take less than $100
What would be a good counter to seal the deal? I was thinking of 26500-27000 otd? Is that do able?
Thanks
Sounds like a good quote from here on the latest and greatest. Invoice is $26,026 (with the $940 destination) and your quote is well under that. The True Market Value average price paid for a 90620 zip is $27,502 (also with destination).
Whacking another $1,000+ off may not be doable. Worth a try, but the quote numbers look pretty good - I was just comparing to the 2016 numbers and they aren't screaming deals even with a $750 incentive (~$24,800 TMV).
Keep us posted please!
I got a quote of 2017 rav4 fwd xle for $25,471 after rebate + tt&l. with the following options:
TC Tonneau Cover
CF Premium Carpet Mat Set (5 piece)
zip code is 76034.
I get MSRP a bit lower than @spidpooy - $27,770, which includes the $940 destination.
The True Market Value average price paid for your part of Texas is $26,244, which includes a $500 incentive. Invoice is 26,026. So your quote with your accessories is looking good.
MSRP 28,150 = 27,825(base ) +325 (installed options)
The least what I have been quoted thus far is $31,409 + TTL.
From TMV:
Invoice value: $32,010
TMV: $32,868
@stever What do you advise?
I think you have a pretty good quote. I'm not familiar with your area - looks like about 200,000 people in your county plus however many on the well-known campus there. And you're shopping a popular Toyota, in an area with probably lots of prosperous citizens there, and it's kind of far to drive to Indy or Chicago to compare numbers in those markets.
My suggestion is to get an out the door price with a breakdown so that you can examine the fees, and assuming there are no junk fees or excessive doc fees in there, try for another $400 off the OTD price (referencing @rreed2's post above). But I wouldn't sweat the numbers too much if you hit a wall assuming the fees are okay.
Let us know how it goes.
That price was offered to us by a dealer in the Chicago suburbs.
The local dealer has offered us the following:
Sale price $32124
Plus doc fee $169.27
Plus tax 6.25%
Plus plates $221
Minus rebate $500
OTD: $34034
What do you opine?
Does the dealer know about your other quote? If not, share it with them and invite them to match. If they come close, you may want to buy local. Otherwise they should be happy to service your Toyota no matter where you buy it.
Nosing around, it looks like there's a $500 ad fee that you shouldn't have to pay, so maybe there's another $500 you can pull out of the deal. It's a legit fee, but I don't think that consumers should have to pay that, any more than you get a line item for their electric bill.
A local dealer in FL 33431 gave me this quote for a 2017 Rav4 XLE FWD (no package). I'm not in a hurry to buy. Is there room for negotiations? Please let me know what you think. Thanks
For the third straight post, I get a different MSPR than the shopper. I get a MSRP of $27,770 for the FWD XLE. That includes the $940 destination.
The True Market Value average price paid for your area is $25,102 - that's $1,000 below invoice.
So the quote before fees is good.
Here's some ammo about the crazy fees.
I think there's, oh, about $995.95 room for negotiation.
I'm in Baton Rouge, Louisiana and looking at a 2017 RAV4 XLE FWD. The MSRP is $28,150 with a $1,000 rebate labeled "TMS Customer Cash - Gulf" bringing the total to $27,150. Could you please tell me the least possible price you feel I could bargain to on this vehicle and then what I can expect the added costs to be along with an OTD price?
Thank you kindly!
We don't have invoice up for this model yet.
I think your best price will be another $1,000 off TMV, or around $24,500. Your taxes are 11% (yikes, is that right?) and the average doc fee there is $155 (apparently capped at $200).
If we're right on your taxes, then your OTD number would be around $27,200. So I'd aim for $27,000 and see what quotes come close and not be surprised if $27,800 is closer to the "real" number.
And maybe try a New Orleans dealer or two also - well maybe not, didn't realize you guys down in Death Valley were so close to a million in your metro area.
Here is the latest update. I went back to the dealer and successfully negotiated a lower price. I was offered the FWD XLE for $25,800 OTD. All dealer fees were waved
A second dealer was willing to do 26k OTD.
Thanks for your inputs and tips.
Thank you for responding so quickly! The sales tax in Louisiana is determined by a person's home address. I will be paying 10%.
I've only seen the vehicle I'm interested in on the dealership's website. I haven't actually seen it in person, and therefore haven't seen the window sticker. Is the destination fee included in the $28,150? Also, I've read to negotiate a price BEFORE the cash back incentives are applied or deducted. How would I go about doing that? I'm sure the first thing the salesman will say is, "Well, you're already getting $1000.00 off." I want the $1000.00 to come off at the end after my excellent bargaining skills have been used. I hope that makes sense!
You mentioned not having the invoice up yet for this model. When do you think you might have access to it?
Thank you!
>> I'm sure the first thing the salesman will say is, "Well, you're already getting $1000.00 off."
Yep, salespeople read the same negotiating tips that we do.
I don't like fooling around that way - maybe that's why I'm not such a great negotiator. The dealers do this every day and we mere mortals may do it once every 3 or 5 years. The sales managers have seen it all.
What I like to do is figure out what a good price is. Then work off that number. I ask for a quote and that tells me if it's even worth my time to negotiate with a dealer. If the quote is realistic, then I'll counter with my out the door price.
Your best negotiating tools are your feet. If you don't need a car "today", then you can walk out a time or two and let the dealer chase you down with a better price. Or even switch gears and shop another brand. Dealers know that if they let you leave, chances are you will buy somewhere else. So that's their motivation to cut to the chase and make a decent comeback to your OTD number.
I'll definitely use my feet if necessary.
Would it be insane if I walked in and offered them $23,000 and worked up from there to no more than $24,000?
Any idea when you might have the invoice price?
Invoice is another tool but it doesn't mean all that much anymore. There's other bonus money and incentives that dealers get that we don't know about that makes the published invoice number inflated. (USA Today)
We don't see that many Toyota deals that wind up $2,000 under invoice (we do see that for Hondas sometimes). So $23,000 may be too much of a stretch - $24k under would be a stretch if not for the incentive. But the worst that can happen is that they'd say no to $23k. And sometimes they say yes.
Here's the link.
When I look at TMV, taking into account a $1,000 incentive, I wind up with a good selling price of $27,857 (including destination).
So your selling price is right on.
I like the honesty of the admin and profit fee - I didn't think to mention that in my screeds yesterday, but dealers don't make all that much money selling new cars. The real money is in service and used cars.
You did just fine and most importantly, you have a nice rig that you are happy with. Enjoy!
I know this forum helps lots of folks, me included, so just trying to do my part.
Keep up the good work.
Heh, you're close to Hopeulikit GA and I know you will.
I'm going to send you an email.
Invoice is $29,925, including destination and the True Market Value average price paid for your zip is $30,875. MSRP is another $1,000 more than TMV, so there's not much room between invoice and MSRP. There's probably a lot of other bonus money that the dealers get, in addition to the holdback, that makes the invoice number look inflated.
TMV is about $300 less in the Bay Area, even after they stick in a $500+ ad fee in the equation there. The ad fee around Portland is almost $600 and TMV is about the same as your zip. Seattle is coming in a bit more that OR.
Looks like you should get some Bay Area quotes, and then tell them to whack the number by another $600 since consumers shouldn't be paying the dealer's ad fees. That's just another cost of doing business.
And then see if your local dealer(s) will price match.
I just found this forum and found the information here very helpful!
I'm about to purchase my first car and am planning to get a 2017 RAV4 XLE AWD. In Chicago area(60602) and the lowest quote I got is 25,894. How much do you think is a fair OTD price? We are going to the dealer on Tuesday and this will my first time buying a car and am a little nervous.:)
Any advice will be highly appreciated!
Thank you
Taxes and fees there are around 10% to 11% from what I understand for your area.
Invoice on that model is $27,835 and MSRP is $29,170. There's a $500 ad fee that should come off the invoice, so that number really should be $27,335.
We show a $1,000 incentive making the True Market Value average price paid for your zip $26,686. So your quote is about $900 below that. Your quote is also ~11% below MSRP. Looking good.
All these numbers include the $940 destination.
So, take your good quote of $25,894, add around 10% to that for the taxes and fees and you wind up at an OTD price just under $28,500. Round that down another $500 if you want to try for an especially good deal, but you may have better luck negotiating a lower price on Black Friday or at the end of the month. But no worries, you are doing fine with that quote. If the OTD price is too much, the dealer is likely padding the fees somehow so you'd need to step back at that point and take another look at the numbers.
If you get discombobulated at the dealer (and that's easy to do, even for more experienced buyers) give us a call. Here's the Shopper Advice contact info (all free, including the call - if you text us, you'll have to pay for your data usage
Let's assume you taxes and fees run around 8% (the average is around 6 to 10%).
TMV of $25,125 plus 8% is ~$2,000. So your selling price sounds like it's $24,000.
Ignoring all my rambling above, yeah, sounds like a good deal.
For the numbers game, your price is around 8 and a half percent below MSRP.
In the market to purchase the 2017 Rav 4 LE.
This was my quote, area code 91801.
2017 RAV4 LE:
MSRP: $26,518
Discounted Price: $24,500
Your OTD Price: $27,153
Can you offer some advice? I was thinking 25,000?
There's the $1,000 incentive making the True Market Value average price paid for your area $25,124. That's about $400 below invoice. (Invoice is $25,540). All those numbers include the $940 destination.
Your quote is $600 below the TMV average and $1,000 below invoice.
I usually peg CA deals at 10% for fees and taxes. That's about $2,450 which puts the OTD price at $26,950, so that's close to your quote.
That's a pretty good stretch to hit $25,000. I don't know your market well enough to guess if that's doable (my impression nationwide is that a good Toyota deal is around invoice).
I'd get some more quotes if you haven't gathered up a few. Maybe try Carson Toyota and see what they are doing. They used to be an aggressive dealer but I haven't heard much about them for years now.
Post if you have more questions and let us know how it goes.
Thank you
Anyway, invoice is $24,600 and TMV with a $1,000 incentive is $25,253.
Sounds like both quotes are good and yeah, may as well try to round it down to $26k even. The end of the month would be a good time to offer a bit less and see if they take it.
Good luck!
(I'll delete your duplicate discussion - you had a different zip code for that one, so holler if this one is wrong. Or just click my link - there's a place to change your zip there).