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I have the same issue and had a diagnostic performed. They did a pretty good job locating and understanding the problem. I went through the same crap trouble shooting and replacing parts. End result is the timing chain cover gasket has a small leak. The leak is leaking on the engine down to the oil pan and if I have it fixed will cost me over $1000 in parts in labor. The cheap way out is to make sure that there is always enough coolant to sustain your car so it doesn't get hot. I hate Fords.
Today it overheated and I let it cool down to start home. Less than a quarter mile down the road, the temp jumped up to 250°. Does anyone have any ideas on what I need to do to get this fixed.
Have you checked the coolant for the presence of combustion gases?
February 2007: car overheated, heavy white exhaust, lost antifreeze. Mechanic at private garage checked it, said it was bad head gasket, but heads were not cracked. Repaired HG for $900. Few weeks later: new oil leak started from crankseal, losing abt.a quart a month. Mechanic said oil leak is from increased pressure caused by better seal from new HG. Said it was cheaper to add a quart ea. month than to repair. I can live with that if he can. Added quart ea. month for 12 mos. Feb. 2008: oil leak got worse overnight. Mechanic said crankseal was worse and the camseal now leaked. Repaired both & installed a new water pump which I didn't know was needed. He also said my engine had high "blow by" & they cemented the two seals in to keep "blow by" from causing leaks again. April 2008: In traffic, radiator fan came on a little later than usual but it worked and no overheating occurred. Antifreeze down about a qt.- was refilled. Next day: No leaks found. Drove two miles. temp gauge needle goes to "H" fast. Interior heater & fan is out. I shut down immediately. Sat along the road for 20 minutes to let it cool. Drove home. Antifreeze down about two quarts. Few days later: no driving. radiator is full. I start the car, left it idle. Temp.gauge still showing not warmed up to normal yet. Wife saw white exhaust - nothing heavy. Then, antifreeze is forced out of coolant overflow. Mechanic said it is bad headgasket. I said "how, it's only a year old." He said I must have been running it hot. I said "no way -never overheated all year until a few days ago." He said: maybe cracked head. I said heads were fine last year. He said "well, that's the way it goes."
I read that this could be anything from cracked head, to bad radiator cap, to thermostat issue. What does everyone here think my problem? Given that the headgasket is new, and it never overheated for 12 months, is it likely to be a headgasket again?
Regular water would be just fine, that would not have caused your problem.
You may have a bad water pump, making the horrible noise, not pumping, and causing your engine to overheat.
The thing to do, while the engine is cold, is to disconnect the accessory belt. Then start the engine to see if you still have the noise or not. If no noise, then the problem is with one of the accessories driven by the belt. If the noise still exists, then get your vehicle to a repair shop quick so you don't ruin the engine any worse.
Assuming the noise stopped when you took off the belt (most of the times accessory goes bad before an engine bearing), then turn off the engine....and begin turning each accessory slowly by hand, feeling for whether it turns easily without wobble or shimmy. You can usually feel which one is bad, then just replace the defective part.
The only way to test for a crack head is to remove it and have it flow tested or magna-fluxed, there is no other sure way.
Perhaps the head was warped last time and did not seal properly. As for "blow by" that is a sign of a worn out engine (bad piston rings).
If it IS the head gasket, given the mileage, I think it's time to bail on this car.
I have posted here before about my car burning coolant. I have been running the car for the last 6 months by manually topping off the coolant on a weekly basis. Not sure how much longer the engine will last this way.
I would hate to spend money to buy a new car right now as the Lancer is not really old and only has 69K miles on it. What other options do I have inorder for me to fix this problem without buying a new car? Estimates that I got for head gasket repair and reliability of the repair do not give me a warm feeling.
What about putting in a new engine in the car?
The book says about 5 hours labor to replace the head gasket plus about $75 for gaskets. Plus new coolant, etc. So what kind of estimates are you getting here?
Please, help me ... my car is 300 M Chrysler Model 2000. The problem is the Gearbox oil goes to the Radiator. I have checked the Radiator my self and found no Leaking from the Gearbox Coolant in the Radiator.
Anybody may have an idea if any other point other than the radiator that leak the Gearbox oil to the Radiator.
Thank you,
Yes, this could be happening, and is very serious. It will ruin the automatic transmission if not repaired.
The automatic transmission fluid has a small, separate cooling tank inside the radiator. Transmission fluid is pumped through this tank to cool it down. There are two steel lines that go into the bottom or side of the radiator carrrying the transmission fluid.
If the cooling tank inside the radiator is leaking, then yes, you get transmission fluid in the coolant fluid in the radiator. And you are getting coolant in the transmission, which will ruin it.
Thank you for intcepation with my car's problem and I really do appreciate your help... I see what do you mean ,but I removed the Radiator last week and I checked if the Coolaint is leaking ( here is how I checked it. I sucked by my mouth through the one of the lines and closed the other one by my finger... There was no leaking even I keep trying several times) .. so I am wondering if this way is enough to judge cuz the oil goes to the Radiator within one hour .... ( it would be very enough to discover the leaking the way I test it)
I am thinking if may be the Coolaint in the Radiator is OK , what would be the other reason to have this problem arise.
Best regards,
anazim1
Your automatic transmission likely has a cooler that is actually part of your radiator, or, a separate unit. Either way the transmission fluid circulates through tubes that is cooled by the surrounding anti-freeze that is also cooling your engine.
If the seals or the tubes for your transmission cooler leak, you will see transmission fluid (oil) in your antifreeze. Worse yet, you will also end up getting antifreeze into your transmission which can be very damaging to your transmission.
You should stop driving your vehicle immediately and have a mechanic determine what it leaking. If it is seals, you may be able to replace them, but if is the tubes, you will likely need a new transmission cooler. If the transmission cooler is part of your engine cooling system (radiator), you will need a whole new radiator.
You can probably find a used one, but may end up with the same problem later. If you are going to keep the vehicle of a long time, I would pay the extra money for a new transmission cooler (or radiator).
I just went through this with my Dodge Caravan. They had to flush the transmission system three times to get all of the antifreeze and coagulated gunk out of it, but you have to do this to protect your transmission.
Hope this helps.
it is the transmission fluid,which is going to the radiator. I will change the Radiator cuz I think this is the right thing to do and I will update you.
Thank you again
anazim1
You will have to remove the bottom pan on the transmission. It does not have a drain hole. And I also agree that you need to do this about 3 times, in order to try to get as much of the coolant out of the transmission. Put the pan back on, refill with the correct transmission fluid (your owner's manual in the 'specifications' section should tell you what type of fluid to use), run the car for a few minutes, shifting the transmission between all the different gears, then do this all two more times.
I really don't know what to tell you about your 'test'. I do not know what kind of pressure the transmission fluid is at when pumped through the radiator. Maybe you were not able to put enough pressure on the tank to feel the leak.
But the tank inside the tank is the only place I know where coolant and transmission fluid come close to mixing.
I very much appreciate your assistance. And as I mentioned earlier that now I am confensed to replace the Radiator.
The very interesting thing is what you have mentioned that the Tank in the Radiator is the only Place that the Transmission Fluids and Coolant get closer which support the idea of maybe leak is there and only very strong pressure under certain Temp could enable us to discover the leaking.
Please, accept my best regards, I will up date you soon.
anazim1
A radiator repair shop could tell you if the transmission cooler internal was leaking or not. It's possible the oiliness was sealer or something else and not transmission fluid.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I have an update on my cooling system problem. i.e small amount of oil inside radiator, around the cap, followed by oil residue around lower intake gasket. The low coolant light still comes on for about 10 minutes before going out. I'm also losing a small amount of coolant.
I took my car in for an oil change today and had the dealership take a look. They said the lower intake gasket was leaking oil (no pressure test), which was what ray indicated. They also said the "coolant elbow" was seeping coolant.
Questions: The lower intake gasket leak is responsible for the oil in the radiator?
I suspect it's probably been like this for awhile. Would you have it repaired for $924 at the dealership, or keep driving as is?
Also, what/where exactly is the "coolant elbow"? I looked at the hoses... they appear to be fine. Thanks.
As for the elbow, the 3800 has an elbow that comes out of the lower intake manifold, the metal part, right below the PCV valve in the upper intake manifold. The 1/2 inch diameter black plastic makes a turn and goes into the base of the tensioner pulley. The coolant goes through there to the heater hose. This elbow is plastic and is sealed at both ends with an o-ring. They sometimes seep. You should be able to visually see a brown track if you have DexCool which is orange brown. If you don't see much of a seep or leak, don't worry until something else has to be worked on to change it. It requires removing the tensioner pulley unit and carefully working the o-rings and new one into place.
As for the oil in the radiator, is it motor oil? Is it transmission oil? If you have DexCool you may have an oiley looking material if it's not been changed soon enough or if someone contaminated it with green stuff type antifreeze.
I'd drain the antifreeze and rinse with water a couple of warmups and then drain. And refill with correct amount of DexCool. Then see if the oil reappears.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
That's why I'd suggest a flush in the driveway at home where you take off the lower radiator hose and run water through the radiator and then add DexCool and refill.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I located what I believe to be the coolant elbow (right above the water pump) That area is damp with oil where it comes out the lower intake. Doesn't seem to be coolant though... could be coolant and oil. I never have the burning coolant smell though.
It's been about 3 years, and 20,000 miles, since I changed the Dexcool. I'll probably go ahead and drain,flush and refill as you suggested. Thanks.
Isolate some of the particles and use a sharp device to see if it's truly metal or an organic material.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You can check for fuel at the shraeder valve on the fuel line on the motor. But having gas spray out does NOT mean there's enough fuel pressure.
You can check to see if injectors are firing by putting the pins of a 194 light bulb into the socket for one of the injectors. It will flash-I'm told. I have not done that. That will tell you if the computer is firing the injectors.
Check fo spark by pulling a spark wire and laying it a quarter inch away from a metal ground and crank the motor--or better put an old spark plug on it and lay the plug on the block.
My first guess woud be a crankshaft sensor. But those often restart after they've cooled.
You're needing to check for air, spark, and fuel.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Bonneville starting and cranking
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It is located behind the front bumper fascia below the right headlamp.
Some genius thought it was a good idea to put it there. :surprise:
If your Audi engine should overheat BADLY one day, that's it for your engine, it's toast, and the car is literally totalled. So you've got high stakes riding on finding this problem and fixing it as soon as you are able to do so.
Pressure in the reserve tank is not a good sign, so I'm a bit concerned.
His Audi may have this kind of system. When they took off what they thought was a reserve tank, they actually opened the pressurized system, which would immediately boil, especially if it was overheated.
Ideas??
Oddly, I have in the last couple of weeks noticed a funny smell when I'd turn on the AC. This is not the first time I've used the AC but it IS the first time I'd noticed the smell and meant to have it checked. The antifreeze puddle upped the ante. Could there be a connection? However, this is NOT the normal condensation puddle after using the AC. There's too much of it. Otherwise the car runs great. Anyone out there with antifreeze leak info? The car's been in no accidents and I'm the original owner. Drat - I buy Hondas so things like this don't happen!!!!
The car is 1000 + a few miles out of warranty (37150 miles)
The dealer told me they had done the same repair a couple of months ago on another 2006 Civic..
Honda is shipping new parts and the repair will be at no cost to me and I didn't even have to ask! I certainly didn't have to plead.
My faith in Honda is completely restored!!
Great that they are covering it.
>on another 2006 Civic..
>My faith in Honda is completely restored!!
But cars aren't supposed to have cracked engine blocks. There's a problem. Replacing parts is nice, but it would have been better to engineer and build better to begin with.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
On the other hand, 2006 was the first year of the new model and I remember it being hard to even get a hold of one. I had to wait a month because I wanted a 5 speed. Maybe corners were cut? Also, I NEVER would have bought anything in the first year of a major model change, but my previous Civic had been squashed in 2006: I was stopped and clobbered by a 60 mph Suburban and got out with only a goose egg on my head so of course I wanted another Civic. In fact, that crash pretty much cemented my loyalty to Honda; this repair is the icing on the cake.
Or maybe it just occasionally happens in this NAFTA-esque nightmare of an economy. I've purchased a number of new computers, too - and only one of them had a faulty hard drive, but still, one new computer did have a faulty hard drive. And I've purchased a number of cars; this is my first (I hope only) one with a faulty engine block.
It does make me wonder about that funny under-the-front-dash buzz I used to hear when I'd go 70 - I wonder if there was a connection between the buzz (which had pretty much vanished by 37000 miles) and the crack. When I brought the then-brand new car in to see about the buzz, they couldn't hear it - they said the local hwys didn't let them go 70?!
I don't know if the 98 is the same, but it might very well be.
I guess what I'd suggest is to follow the wiring back from the fans, and see if they connect to something mounted down on the front frame.
Look under the NHTSA site or contact your local dealer.
I think it may have been a service bulletin.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl287f.htm
But they could have messed up installing the belt correctly. Which could lead to the overheating.
Overheating is a very serious problem. It can quickly completely ruin a motor. You need to have this repaired quickly. I think I would take it back to where you had the belt replaced.
I just reread your post. You said 'almost overheats'. I thought it was overheating (coolant being blown out of the radiator, etc.)
What do you mean 'almost overheating'? Is the coolant guage running much higher than before?
Putting the belt on still could be the reason for a change. For example, you coolant fan might not be running because they knocked an electrical connection loose. (I'm guessing but I would think a 2006 vehicle has an electric coolant fan, not a manual one run off the belt). With the fan not running, if the weather is cool where you live and you only drive a short distance at slow speeds, the car might just show higher than usual temperatures on the guage. If you drive it further or faster, it might overheat more.
Overall, take it back where you had the belt replaced. Of course, they might reconnect a loose connection, tell you the car needs a radiator flush (should not be needed on a 2/3 year old car) and charge you a lot more money for doing some unneeded repair.
2000 Chevy 1500 express van 4.3. 116K.
One of the plastic tanks on radiator has a crack.
Can a radiator shop replace the tank or should I buy a new radiator?
I checked local parts stores and am looking at $ 200 - $ 300. Looked online and can get for about $ 150 delivered. Is there any difference other than the price?
Thanks
Jim