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Lexus GS Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bdkinnhbdkinnh Posts: 292
    I agree that the AC is more than adequate. The seat cooling, however, leaves a bit to be desired. It's helpful, but it's not all that powerful. On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd give it a 7.
  • ghraiaghraia Posts: 11
    I am thinking about a GS. I see a lot of posts here about rattles and squeaks, and also vibration and tire noise. Is there anyone on the forum without these problems?
  • donbldonbl Posts: 42
    no rattles, no squeaks and no vibration.

    Car has about 6500 miles on it.

    The original model problems on rattles and squeaks had to do with the windshield whose design was changed late last year.

    Vibrations are inherent in the high performance soft tires as they wear (at about 10K miles).

    Good luck,
  • neelpneelp Posts: 2
    I just bought my 2006 GS430 in July and I've had an annoying rattling problem that comes from the drives side of the car. Its an intermittant noise so I had no luck first 2 times I took it to Lexus. Finally, I told the dealership take care find it and fix it....they have a representative from Lexus coming in this weekend to look at it. I have also had squeaking noise from the bushings which they are also addressing. The car is great overall....but I am very annoyed with all the issues going on.
    Has anyone else had a rattling noise from the Drivers side...If so, has it been resolved....Please help
  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    I am on my second GS300. First one a 1998. Current one a 2002 with 65,000 miles. Both have been perfect. No shakes, rattles or rolls.
  • bdkinnhbdkinnh Posts: 292
    >The original model problems on rattles and squeaks had to do with the windshield

    That was just one of the problems. There were also problems with the ML speakers, seat rails, molding in the rear window, and glove box. All of these resulted in TSB's from Lexus.

    Others, myself included, have had many other rattles and squeaks as well that haven't been as easy to eliminate.

    >Vibrations are inherent in the high performance soft tires as they wear (at about 10K miles)

    If you're talking about the run-flat Dunlops, those aren't soft - they're hard. That's why they transmit more force into the car, which results in more rattles. At around 10K miles, due to the noise from the Dunlops, I got a set of Pilot Sport A/S and have been very happy with them.
  • tomciutomciu Posts: 1
    hi, i have a problem with my GS 3000 year 2000. every time it gets cold or when i break the light comes on "BRAKE". its getting on my nerves. its the same light that comes on when u hit the hand brake- which in the lexus u hit with ur foot. What is the problem?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Add some brake fluid so fluid "contraction" in the cool/cold doesn't lower it below minimum.

    Hmmm...

    MY2000, 6 years...

    Or in the alternative install new brake pads which would undoubtedly "push" some of the fluid back into the reservoir.
  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    My first 1998 GS 300 (88,000 Mi) and my second 2002 GS 300 67,000 Mi have no squeaks or rattles.
  • bdkinnhbdkinnh Posts: 292
    I guess they fired the guy that built yours before they built my 2006 GS300.
  • I have a 2006 GS 300 AWD and my car has been at the dealer for 33 days due to an oil or transmission leak. The dealer replaced the transmission (5,000 miles on vehicle)but won't replace the vehicle and the car has run the same since I drove it off the lot.

    Have you had any luck in getting a new vehicle aka lemon law?

    Thanks
  • I have a 2006 GS 300 and it is 16 months old. I moved to CA this July and found that about once a week or so I get into the car (parked in my garage) and as I enter the car, I get the strong smell of windhield washer fluid, or something similar to anti-freeze. The car was in the dealers recently and they couldn't find anything...of sourse, it only happens once in a while! Anyone else have any similar experiences?
  • I compromised the head gasket on my 96 GS300 (120K miles) as the radiator lost it's water and I drove the car for approx 20 miles dry (ughhhh.) Neither the temp gauge or idiot light gave any indication of the condition as the sensor was not immersed in coolant.

    I replaced the rad and then check for hydrocarbons in the rad after running the engine. The rad shows 100ppm hydrocarbons indicating a head gasket leak. Othe than the engine, the car is in very nice condition.

    Anyone have thoughts on what I might do with the car?
  • Donate the car to a High School that has a car auto mechanic
    shop.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    If the car runs fine and no white smoke comes out from the tail pipe, I just drive it until it gives up.
  • Can someone please help me. I dont know what is going on with my car but its making some rattling noise when its at a stand still. Please get back to me. Thank You.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    If you have oil (hydrocarbons) in the coolant, then you also have coolant in the crankcase. Glycol is extremely corrosive to crankshaft main and connecting rod bearing metals. GET THE ENGINE FIXED BEFORE YOU SPIN A MAIN BEARING AND PERMANENTLY TRASH THE ENGINE BLOCK. You're only looking at seventeen to eighteen hundred bucks now for a replacement head gasket or gaskets and labor vs. ten grand+ later. Do the math - the car is definitely worth more than salvage title.
  • calvmcalvm Posts: 1
    Sounded like everyone here had bad experience with GS one way or the other. Here is mine:
    '99 GS300 bought at 100K with no warranty. Asked the dealer to print service history: waterpump & timing belt replaced, previous owner complained about surge at pedal...
    1. Changed battery myself, had starter replaced for the same problem of multiple cranks $350;
    2. Did a all-wheel alignment, $85
    3. Replaced all four tires with Yoko, $250
    4. Bought cheap 5-30 and filters from Walmart for DIY oil changes (10 min each time, 5K per change);
    5. Flushed coolant and changed airfilter...
    That's all I can think of. Car idles smoothly and I brought it up to 145k in two years. Everything works just fine.
    Actually I have so much to [non-permissible content removed] about my ML320 but this is not the place.
    Wished I had more to complain... :blush:
  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    I am on my 2nd GS300. First a 1998 with 87K when T-boned by an unlicensed, uninsured drover in a Ford F-250, running a red light. It would still be in the family today (hand me down), an excellent vehicle. My second 02 GS300 has been perfect, currently 67K, second set of tires, Michelins at 55K. Use only Castrol Syntec 5W40 changed at 6K. Hope I don't get T-boned. I did pick up an 04 and will sell the 02 because the kids can't afford it and I'm not giving it away. All maintence pulled. New brakes all around, transmission flush etc at 65K.
    Drive on .........
  • Anyone find the paint on 06 GS300 to be of poor quality? Mine is rough to the touch..unlike any of my other cars...Silver. My Infiniti G35 coupe...2004..feels like silk and the Lexus feels like sandpaper. I have a 2002 Taurus which feels smoother than the Lexus.
  • bdkinnhbdkinnh Posts: 292
    Have you tried using a claybar to clean it off? That would tell you if it is the paint, or something on the surface.
  • My 98 GS400 quite often fails to start in the morning at my first attempt. However, when I put it in reverse and let the car roll for a few seconds, then return it to park, it starts with no problem. I have taken it in to the dealership twice before but they've reported that there is no problem. Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this be happening because I don't as a rule starighten my wheels when I park?
  • How many miles on the car? Is the battery strong enough to crank the engine? Did you try starting with the gas pedal half pressed?
  • The car has 55,000 miles, and the battery is about a year old. I don't think I've tried starting with the gas pedal half pressed. I'm really puzzled about this problem. It happened again today, by the way. Each time, putting the car in reverse and then starting again resolves the problem.
  • Does the engine crank normally and just not catch? Or does it not crank until you shift to R and back?
  • It does not crank at all. Nothing. Then I put it in reverse, let it roll for 3 seconds, put it back in park, turn the key again and it starts at the first attempt. All the times this has happened, it's usually in the morning when I'm about to leave for work. Has not happened at any other time. Which it would if it was simply because I never straighten my steering wheel.
  • Sounds like your shift interlock is finicky. That's the mechanism inside the shifter that prevents people from cranking the engine in any gear other than Park. Yours could be sticking, and when you shift to Reverse, then back to Park, it gets "unstuck". Did you or anyone ever spill any liquids around the shifter area? If so, you may need to take the center console off and clean any sticky residue inside.

    If this is not due to a spill, then a trip to the dealer is probably needed.
  • Thanks for the advice, samiam. I'll take it to the dealer and ask them to check the shift interlock. That could well be the problem, and I definitely wouldn't discount the possibility of something having been spilled around the shifter area. Again thanks.
  • Last night while stopped at a red light, the stereo even though switched off, started popping softly every 4-5 seconds, turning the stereo on didn't help the situation. Then randomly burst out a very loud buzz and popping sort of electronic babble, then stopped and went back to silent.

    Then it happened again this morning. My wife won't drive the car anymore, it's too loud - painful enough to hurt your ears.

    Anyone have this happen before? This is the first problem we've had with the car, we're stunned.
  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    Is your main battery strong? It sounds like a short circuit somewhere, that is bad connection somewhere.
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