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I'm sorry if this was answered before, I did not come across it so I thought I would ask.
I am interested in a 2008 328i or 335 convertible w/ 15k miles per year for a 2 or 3 year lease and I live in Arizona.
I found within forums a MF of .00295 & .00310 for the cars i stated above and my questions below revolve around the Money Factor Issue on Leasing.
MY QUESTIONS:
1. Is there a baseline MF? If so does the baseline or lowest Money Factor (MF) change every month, quarter or at certain times with the BMW Departments for each make/model of car. I ask because I notice on different post's there are different MF for the same car. If it does change how often and why?
At the link below you will find 2008 328/335 Convertible with a MF of .00310
Where does this .00310 come from, does it change, is this a baseline or can the dealer go lower and if so how low can or will they go?
Forum 2008 BMW MF List
2. Is the MF based on my credit check, meaning the higher my score the better or lower my MF would be?
3. Does the Dealer I am working with at the BMW Shop have the ability to go as low or high as he wants on the MF and if so what factors does he take into account to lower or raise it. Mainly asking to find out what way's i can get the lowest MF at time of sale.
4. I read that you could put up to 7 security deposits down lowering your MF by a percentage for each deposit. Is this true and is this a good idea and will it be in the lease that you get back all the deposit you put in or could they turn around and state the car is damaged and keep $2,000-5,000 of your deposit.
Thanks to anyone that can answer these questions especially since there are 2-4 questions per paragraph, sorry about that.
Michael
IThank you both for letting me know that the selling price was the figure that was missing in my calculations. I spoke to a total of six dealers & let them know that I knew the MSRP of the car I wanted & I just basically needed to know at what selling price they would give me the car. Many of them were not nice or helpful. I did find a saleman in Briarcliff, NY who was very cooporative. I'm plannig to get BMW 328xi on Tuesday. I figured out the lease payments myself and it sound right please let me know what you think. Thanks again.
328xi, automatic, heated front seats.
MSRP $36,850
Residual 22,478.50 (61.00%)
Selling prize $35,766 ($1,084 less)
Money Factor .00175
Due at signing:
1. 1st month $471.03
Reg. fee $55.
Bank fee/Acquisition fee $625 (He stated that the bank fee is the same as the acquisition fee. It means the same. Is this true?)
Documentation fee $45
Te recycle fee $12.50
Inspection $10.00
Sales tax $1,296.76
TTotal: $2,515.20
IS this a good deal?
Rather than working with salesmen at each dealer, use Edmunds' system to communicate with the Internet department at each dealer. To do this, configure your car on Edmunds new car prices section. Then follow up with Edmunds' "Get Dealer Quotes" to send a message to each dealer. In the text of your message, tell them that you are ready to lease this car at a price of $800 (or whatever number you feel comfortable asking) over invoice. You'll get straightforward responses from the Internet managers at several of your dealers, and you can choose which ones to work with based on their responses. If they don't respond, or won't deal at your price, forget them. Much less stress than trying to find a nice salesman.
Your lease numbers check out right on my calculator, assuming that money factors have gone up about .0010 from December rates, and assuming that none of your up front fees are rolled into your lease.
Typically, you should be able to get the base money factor assuming that you are a returning BMW customer, or if you pay one month's payment as a refundable security deposit. You didn't mention whether you are paying a security deposit or whether you are a returning BMW customer. Since I don't have the January money factors, I can't tell whether you are getting the base rate or an inflated rate.
Good luck with your deal. Let us know how you do.
Yes I'm a returning BMW customer & I am not paying a security deposit this time.
I'm going to try what you said to see if I get a better deal, but if I don't I'll stick with this one & know better for next time. Thank you very much.
Maritza
CPO 2006 CPO 325 xi alpine white fully loaded:
navigation
xenon headlights
steptronic automatic
xm satellite ready
park assist
OTD: $34,941 ($32,000 plus tax, title, etc.)
3.9%
$4,000 down
$569.35 for 60 mos
Maintenance to expire Dec. 2009
Extended warranty to expire Dec. 2011
Wondering if I should buy this car or lease a new 328 xi. I don't necessarily need all the extras, but they sure are nice. Any advice is appreciated.
I moved to AZ since my last lease and don't know how they calculate the tax payment (ie on monthly payment or on purchase price)...would you know?
Lastly, any thoughts on whether it is worth it to get the active steering? I have not test driven one yet but obviously will do so soon. My current 05 330 cci does not have it.
Many thanks for the info.
mdkrp
I am moving back to Arizona some time in Feb. if you don't mind after you figure out your next vehicle lease / purchase post on this forum about it and how the customer service was and at which dealership.
I know there is one dealer in Tucson and 3 in Phoenix and would have no problem going to any of the four off of your rec. if you found them easy to work with
Thanks
MSRP - $40,975
Selling Price - $40,200
Due @ signing - $1,430
Monthly Payment - $595.00
We are current BMW leasees, the dealer told us the MF is currently .00205
Is this a good deal, or can we do better? What is the current MF?
Thanks in advance!
Stacie
Also, I believe that you should be able to do better than a $775 discount on a 328xi sedan. Try to get close to $2,000 off. If it's a Coupe, you'll have a harder time, but you should still be able to beat $1,000 off.
Is there any way I can turn in my 328 coupe when my wife turns in hers in October 2008 (at this time I will have one more year on my lease) with the intention of entering in a new lease on one car. I figure they will try to get my wife to enter in a new lease when her car comes up for lease. I am hoping to convey that we would be more likely to enter in a new lease if we can turn in both of our cars. This way, BMW will lock us in a car for 2-3 more years (win for them) versus us simply turning in my wife's car, not getting into another car for her, and only have me for one more year leasing.
We are thinking of getting an SUV and don't want to buy a X3 and don't want to pay a premium for an X5. We are thinking of getting a 4Runner thus would only be in the market for one sedan (preferably another 3 series or a 5 series).
Any help is appreciated!
You can determine approximately how much it will cost you to get out of your current lease by comparing its purchase price to its value on the open market at this time. You should place a call to the bank that you are leasing your vehicle through to find out its exact price. Once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". Don't forget to check to see if you are still on the hook for your remaining lease payments. The difference between your leased vehicle's current value and how much it will cost you to buy it plus any remaining lease payments that you are obligated to pay will equal the cost of getting out of your lease right now. You may find that you are better off waiting until you are closer to the scheduled end of your lease to get another new vehicle.
Car_man
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x021627
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
How about on an X5 2008 MF and residual rate for 36month/15 thousand miles a year as a repeat customer?
Please let me know? Greatly appreciate all your help.
Thanks
Car_man
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BMW usually publishes a new lease program every month, but sometimes for most models its new program is virtually identical to the one that it replaced. Unlike some manufacturers' captive finance companies that use a tiered system with different money factors depending upon what one's credit score is, BMW Financial Services' system is essentially pass / fail. Either you qualify for its best money factors or you cannot lease through them.
BMW FS does have a multiple security deposit program. The last time that I looked into it, it allowed lessees to make up to seven additional deposits with each one reducing their vehicles' money factor by .00007. If you have the money to make them, MSDs are a much better way than making a down payment to reduce your vehicle's monthly payment.
BMW Financial Services' current buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 24 month lease of a 2008 328i convertible with 15,000 miles per year are .00315 and 73%, respectively. The numbers for an otherwise identical 36 month lease are .00315 and 61%. Its current factor and resid for a 24 month lease of a 2008 335i convertible with 15,000 miles per year are .00315 and 69%. The numbers for an otherwise identical 36 month lease are .00315 and 59%. This lease program is scheduled to run through January 31st.
Car_man
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Let's take a look at these vehicles' current lease programs. BMW Financial Services' current buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2008 335i Sedan with 15,000 miles per year are .00210 and 61%, respectively. The numbers for an otherwise identical lease of a 2008 BMW X3 are .00270 and 65%.
Car_man
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I personally don't have an opinion on the active steering system, but you may find a community member who does by posting your question over in the "BMW 335i 2007+" discussion.
Car_man
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Car_man
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Thank you so much for your help.
In your opinion, am I more likely to get better MF/RV deals through local banks/credit unions or should I just go with BMWFS?
mdkrp
Okay new question for leasing
I have read all the tips and way to figure your lease payments out and what to try to get lower or not used with all the Fee's and what not.
So lets say I do all the numbers and i have a ballpark figure for a 2 year lease of 700$ to 780$ and that of course depends on them adding these fee's or those fee's, getting a better MF or not .. yada yada
Now instead of going in and trying to get the best of this or that would it be easier just to go in and say i want THAT CAR and i want my payments to be no more than 685$ a month. CAN YOU MAKE IT HAPPEN?
Would that actually work if you knew in your head and calculations that 685$ was in fact feasible and they could work there mojo to get to that monthly payment price??
Anyone??
mdkrp
If that is correct, then only the purchase price is negotiatable at this point; I will try to get it for about 1k below MSRP; is that a reasonable approach?
mdkrp
Am I able to appeal to the BMW Financial Services to reconsider, or what other options do I have? Already paid the deposit ($1000) for the 335i special order.
Thanks in advance.
If my assumption is incorrect, and you just want them to reconsider the denial of your application, as long as they have not discriminated they can deny it. You might want to get someone to cosign the lease, or offer to give them a larger security deposit.
In my case, they tried to tell me they were using the "buy rate" money factor but were using the bumped up one. I was able to get the sale price to $2K off MSRP.
Since then I've been talking with the phoenix area dealers via email. They have been a lot more honest about what numbers they are using, but I haven't gotten much better than Tucson. The bottom line is they can bump up the MF by .0004 and take that as profit, and thats what they're doing. They also can add $200 to the acquisition fee and of course throw in other fees like doc fees, etc.
Although they have been stubborn so far, they also haven't given up emailing me continually, and since I have infinite patience I will just keep asking them to lower the price. My original idea of 3yr 36k for $580 w/ 3k out of pocket is probably not going to happen, but I think $600 should be possible, if I also pay the first security deposit.
I might go back to Tucson to try again, but they seem to be a lot more 'old school' and a lot more shady with the numbers.
So I'm getting a new BMW 328xi lease. Good deal?
(Multiple security deposits x8)
Model: 328xi.
Lease: 36 months / 10,000 miles
Packages:
Metallic Paint
Sports Package
Xenon light
Automatic transmission.
MSRP: $39,000
Negotiated price: $37,000
$476 / month.
$4,000 security deposit (refundable)
$600 fees (apparently,everything BUT motor vehicle)
MF: .00175 (Salesman showed me, but don't know if using)
Residual: 64% (salesman showed me, but don't know if using)
So how does the multiple security deposits work?? I know it's more 'economical' if you have the cash, but how does it work? Do i pay the $4,000 (500 / month) in addition to the $476??
Can someone work out how $476 was derived? And do I REALLY get the 4,000 back?
Thanks!
08 bmw 328xi with premium, cold weather, xenon lights and ipod adapter, 36 month lease, 15k a year. $530 a month, only due at signing is fees up front.
Thanks.
You pay the security deposits up front in cash. BMWFS keeps them until the end of your lease. As for whether you really get them back, everything I read on line tells me yes. At lease return, though, if your car has significant damage, tires that are too worn, etc, you will pay penalties. If you have paid security deposits, I'm sure that these penalties will be taken out of your deposits, but you'll have to pay the penalties either way.
Your first security deposit (SD) of your 8 is required if you are not a returning BMW lease customer. Each SD equals one monthly payment. This SD gets you the base money factor (the "buy rate"), in this case .00175 for your 328xi. If you don't make this SD, the rate would bump up by .00015. Each additional SD (the other 7 SDs) will reduce your money factor by .00007 each, or a total of .00049. So your resulting money factor is (.00175-.00049 or) .00126.
The reason the multiple SD system is a good deal can be calculated from the reduction in your payments. You'll save over $1,000 over the life of your loan because of your 7 SDs, which calculates out to about a 10% annual return on your investment.
The January residual for a 36 month lease for this car is 61%, not 64%.
I entered these numbers into a lease calculator with $600 in inception fees, rolled into the lease, and I got a monthly payment of $443.54 before taxes. I don't know your local tax rate, so you'll need to multiply this payment by your tax rate to get your final payment.
I hope this helps.
One more question....
The "Residual" value ---
Is that calculated from the MSRP? Or negotiated price?
Thanks!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Love the forum, you guys really do provide valuable info and it's appreciated! Now onto my question...
If the car has to be special ordered, (only because there are no 3 series coupes anywhere to be found in Miami), how much can one expect off of MSRP? This is what an old classmate, who is a BMW salesman, is offering me so far:
328ci - Alpine White
MSRP is $39845 (sport pkg, steptronic, paddle shifters, ipod adapter, electric seats)
$1000 off of MSRP to bring it down to $38845
36 month lease / 15k miles per yr
This is where I think he's being screwy: His quoted MF is .00215 with a discount of .00015 for being a repeat BMW customer. Shouldn't it be the buy rate of .00200 with the discount of .00015? This would bring it to .00185 correct?
Would you mind providing details of what a good deal for this car would be right now? (no additonal cap cost reduction, just standard up front fees)
I haven't even gotten to the up front fees yet, but I want to iron out the obvious before I get into that with him.
Thanks!
Pabel - Miami, Fl.
You can pay additional security deposits (up to seven) to lower your money factor by .00007 each.
I got my 328i Coupe at a $2700 discount from MSRP in California in November, an ordered car, not one on the lot. I did have to pay the maximum acquisition fee of $825, which is about $200 high, though, and I think a few other fees. The overall deal was the best I found, by quite a bit.
If your fees are rock bottom and you get the buy rate money factor, $2000 off MSRP would be a fairly good deal, but local supply and demand will dictate how willing dealers are to negotiate.