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Comments
#1
1st mth payment 538.32
fees 7 insurance 105
upfront taxes 12.50
Total out of Pocket 665.81
Markup 450
Disclosed Rate MF 0.00175
MSRP 39,175
Low MSRP 43,025.00
Vehicle Cost 36,865
Markup 450
Total Selling Price 37,315.00
Acquisition Fee 625
Captial cost 37,940.00
Capped Taxes 1,693.33 @8.6250% (Oceanside, NY)
Total Capital Cost: 39,633.33
15,000 Miles per year
Additional miles 0.15
Total Mileage 45,000
Excess Mileage 0.20
Total Residual 23,896.75
Maximum Advance Information : Max 41,493.33
Max 100.00
Miscellaneous Information
Max. 0.00040
Inspection 10.00
Title 50.00
Doc Fee 45.00
THIS IS ONE QUOTE. DON'T KNOW WHAT TO MAKE OF IT. DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THIS ANY GOOD? I ALSO TOLD THEM THAT I AM A CURRENT BMW OWNER.
#2
Base MSRP 34,300 Invoice: 38,060
Color 475 Mark up 750
Cold Weather 850 Total Sales Price:38,810.00
Prem. Pkg 3,250
Auto 1275 36/45k
Destination 775 61% Residual
TOTAL: $40,925.00 .00185 MF (bumped up by .00010)
8.625% tax included in 1st mth 553.18 per month
625 Bank Fee
53.91 Tax on bank Fee
150 NY Plate Fees
10 NY Tire tax
45 Doc Fee
10 Inspection Fee
TOTAL: $1,447.09
Security deposit waived through loyalty program.
:sick: THE 1st dealership is in NY and the 2nd is in NJ. So I already see that the 2nd is charging me for inspection 10.00 that they can't do. I have to get it inspected here in NY.
I told them both that I will keep the plates I have on my present vehicle. :mad:
Are these any good? Can I put my security deposit being returned to me back into this to lower the MF factor? And how would that look and how much would it lower my monthly payment???
Obviously, I am still having a hard time.
Thanks again HOSTS and everyone here who can help me out.
Deal #1: It's presented a little differently than we usually see, but it looks to me like you're getting an $1860 discount from MSRP (39,175 minus 37,315), your money factor and lease fee are not being marked up. Not a bad deal. Payment calculates out to about what he's giving you. Try to bargain him down further on the discount from MSRP.
Deal #2: There's a problem in the way this is presented. How can the invoice price be more than the base MSRP? Assuming that's just an error, I also see that he's listing a markup of $750 versus the $450 from the other dealer. Dealers aren't usually that upfront about markups where I live, but it looks like #2 is marking it up $300 more than #1. Otherwise it looks similar to #1 but the money factor is bumped up 10 points, as stated. So that's why the payment is higher. That bump is dealer profit. Don't pay it. Otherwise they seem to be similar.
#1 seems to be the better deal. If you want to, work with both of them and play them off against each other to get the best payment without letting them inflate other fees.
Lease quotes are $879 (24 mo.) and $806 (36 mo.). I have never done a lease, and do not know whether I am being taken or not. They call the discount a preferred customer (am trading in previous purchased 2002 325), and it is supposedly a "Costco Customer price too...", but it still seems like the same 3% discount I was quoted online at other dealers...so am wondering if there is any room on this.
BTW, the car I am looking at is now at Oxnard shipping destination, awaiting transit to Washington State...so it is not "on the lot".
Would appreciate any advice or input. At this point, I have a $1000 refundable deposit in wiht them to get the car shipped up.
Thanks
Dawgfan1
A little basic info for you. The base money factor right now for the 335xi is .0021. The residuals are 71% for 24 months and 61% for 36 months. The residuals will vary slightly based on the number of miles per year.
I don't know about Wa. taxing laws or tax rates, so I'll give you approximate payments without taxes and you can add sales tax to the payment if that is what is done in your state.
With the base money factor of .0021 and a basic $625 bank fee rolled into the lease, the 36 month payment would be $639.57 without taxes. For 24 months, the payment would be $668.53. Even when you add taxes to these payments, they don't come near to the payments the dealer is quoting.
Also, you're putting $2500 down. This is usually highly discouraged. One reason is that you lose all of that money if the car is stolen or totaled.
So my advice is to get all of the details of the lease itemized and explained. You should try to get near to the base money factor. They are not allowed to add more than .0004 to the base money factor, but try get the base. Get all of the fees explained. Try not to pay any fees beyond a $625 bank fee, which may be rolled into the lease or paid up front. Other fees that they may be adding are mostly dealer profit. Don't put any money down. The discount from MSRP is fairly decent, but you may be able to negotiate that down as well. You may also make refundable security deposits (each equal to one month's payment) to reduce the money factor. You should definitely make one SD, because the MF increases .00015 unless you're already a BMWFS customer. But you can make up to 7 additional SDs, each of which will lower your MF by .00007. If you do the math, doing this will return you at least 10% on your investment.
Consider working with more than one dealer. Get their best offers on a similar lease and work them against each other. You'll get a good idea of how low they will really go. If you're not up to the face-to-face negotiation, try emailing the internet managers at several dealers and ask them for their best offers on this car. Tell them you want a no money down lease at the base rate and at least a $1500 discount from MSRP. I think you'll see better payment offers than the ones you've quoted.
Good luck.
When doing a lease, recognizing I am talking about a car in relatively high demand (and apparently a generally low motivated dealer), what are the specific components of a lease that are negotiable. Obviously the monthly payment is one... (can you illustrate a for example of how the money factor plays into the calc?_) . What are some of the other factors? Is there any difference in the amount of money the car is worth at the end of the lease that will factor in, or that I can be blindsided by:?
Thanks, this forum looks like a godsend. Dawgfan1
328xi
metallic
cold
premium
auto
ipod
msrp 41325
cap cost 38805
mf .00175
3 yr/ 10k residual 64%
monthly payment 510
out the door 2230.
I'm thinking to move on this one.
First, you need to know the residual (set by BMW) and the money factor on the lease of the car you're looking at. Residual is just the value of the car after the lease is over. It'll be a percentage, but convert it to a decimal. E.g., 64% residual = .64. Money factor is just a way to calculate your interest payments.
Then, lease payments should be calculated as follows:
Cap Cost * (1-.residual) / Term of Lease = Depreciation
Cap Cost * (1+residual) / money factor = Interest
Depreciation + Interest = Base monthly payment. Add on tax and there you have it.
I typically negotiate lease deals based on cap cost, as if you were purchasing the car. If you negotiate based on monthly payment it's harder to identify the options on the car that are giving the dealer his profit. Also make sure your dealer is giving you the base rate money factor. Lots of dealers like to mark this up.
To add to that, the negotiable factors are:
- The cap cost (the negotiated price on the car, either a markup from invoice cost or a discount from MSRP).
- The money factor (equals the APR of the financing divided by 24). As stated above, BMW sets this factor monthly, it varies by model and BMW only allows the dealers to mark it up by .0004.
- Bank fee. Base bank fee is universally $625. BMW allows dealers to mark it up by up to $200. Can be paid up front or rolled into the lease, your choice.
- Other fees. Often include "MACO" ( $300 to $400 regional advertising fee charged to the dealer by BMW, some dealers have to pay this, others don't, depends on their region and advertising practice), "training" ( about $150, dealers also pay this fee to BMW), "documentation" and others. Some or all of these can be negotiated down. Can be rolled into the lease or paid up front.
- Down payment, "customer cash", "cap reduction". As often suggested, try to make this zero, for several reasons.
- Security deposit(s).
Generally, if you roll any agreed fees into the lease, the total cash due at inception would equal just the first month's payment, any security deposit(s), DMV tag fee, a few small service fees, state tire fee, etc, and in certain states, sales tax.
Remember that the dealer has to make some money to be interested in your business. He'll make it through a combination of markup from his invoice cost, padding the money factor, padding the bank fee, and other fees that are pure profit. I personally got a $2800 discount from MSRP on my 328i coupe, but paid a $200 markup on the bank fee and a slightly higher MF, equal to about $10 a month dealer profit. Overall, I was satisfied with the deal because the cap cost was discounted enough to make up for the padded fees.
"It is obvious you have access to BMW FS bulletins, listing the rates and residuals. You are also aware that I cannot actually contract a client above the .0040 basis point max markup. If you look at the bulletin effective dates, you will notice that it expired 1/2/08, the new bulletin I am allowed to contract by BMW FS to use expires 1/31/08, so the rates and residuals that I have sent you by email expire today. An itemized breakdown is below.
Sales Price=$36,500
MSRP=$38,250
Residual=61% or $22185.00
Oklahoma Excise tax of 3.25% or $1186.25 Reg fees $90.75 Title fee $11 Inspection $21.75 Documentary fee $50 Security Deposit=$500 The total for fees and SD are $1859.75. Your $3000 will account for $1959.75, first payment of $499.93 and will actually put $540.32 towards the cap cost.
One more item if we used the Money factor of .00205 and an residual of 58% your payment would actually increase by $23. This is due to the decrease residual."
Note: I believe he used MF of .00215. I had them itemize the deal I posted from above and this is what I got. Is the MF still too high?
Also, I've read on another site that the February rates will be the same as the January rates, so his pressure to sign today is bogus (unless you are leasing a 2007 car, 2007 rates end today. But the 2007 rates were lower).
Also, the residual amount is set solidly by BMW and only varies based on your contracted miles per year. The dealer shouldn't be able to adjust the residual.
Notice that you're still putting $540 towards the cap cost. I wouldn't do that. I'd tell him that he should reduce the cap cost by that amount and you'll keep your $540. If you're feeling uncomfortable about the inflated rates, down payment, etc, find another dealer, if you have them available. It might be worth driving 50 miles to get a better deal.
On your ability to use the cash from your trade for SDs rather than down payment, I would say absolutely. You should be able to craft the deal that you want. That cash is yours if they'll give you the $7K for the trade. You should be able to pocket it, use it for a down, or use it for SDs. Anyone disagree?
328i sedan
6sp/sport/prem/ipod/heated seats/
MSRP $38,900
$3,500 down (includes IL taxes. IL requires you to pay taxes on total value of vehicle when leasing)
Payment $489/month
15K yr
36 months
thoughts?
thanks
Andy
2008 BMW 355i coupe - Fully Loaded (Auto + Premium + Sports + Nav + iPod/ USB + Park Distance + Paddle Shifter) - White paint w/ Saddle Brown/ Black interior
Invoice
Base price: $40,800
Pkgs./ Options : $8,650
MSRP : $49,450
Selling Price : $47,085 ($560 more than dealer cost for training, MACO fees. Dealer claims only $1,000 over his cost of $46,085)
Drive off Cost : $1,855.23 (see breakdown detail below)
DMV Fee : $45
Bank/ Acquisition Fee : $625
Tax on Bank fee : $55.27
1st Payment : $726.21
Deposit : None
36 mo. 10K lease at : $726.21/ month
Money Factor : 0.0026 (w/o security deposit - 0.00245 w/ security deposit) through BMW FS
I have done the math and lease numbers above do work out. However, I want to lower my monthly payment closer to $650 range. The questions I have :
1. Is this a fair deal given the car being so hot in LA area now that no dealer has a good inventory? (I have to order mine and wait). Has anyone found a better deal with similar car recently around here?
2. What other options I have to lower the money factor rather than paying multiple security deposits (which I can if I need to)?
3. How many multiple security deposits are needed to bring it closer to $650/ mo. range? Is all of this money refundable at the end of the lease? Is there a risk involved with putting that much money in the hand of the lessor who may start acting up at the end of the lease?
Thanks a million for any feedback/ advice in advance.
My 2005 BMW 325i is ending early May, I got a call from my dealer.
This was my 2nd lease, I am looking for my 3rd lease. I havent talked to my dealer yet.
Here are the options I intend to lease.
BMW 2008 328i
- Auto Trans
- Metallic Silver
- Premium Pkg
- Cold Weather Pkg
Is this a good price to negotiate ?
$1,000 down to drive off the car (just like I did my previous car)
$470 / month
10,000 miles /yr
This is in New Jersey (southern part).
I know the dealer will not be happy but is this possible? What would be a good deal ? And how do I negotiate to get this?
Thanks for all your assistance!
Thanks!
Stacie
Can someone tell me the Money Factor and Residual Values for Feb. on a 328 & 335 Convertible for 24 & 36 months each.
SECOND QUESTION:
I had a BMW Dealer tell me today that the Residual Value changes on a car depending on the options you place on the car. From all my reading i thought this was set but am I wrong. If the RV was 71% then it doesn't matter what else is on the car correct??
Thanks
Michael
The residual value does change.. The percentage used to calculate it does not.. 71% of MSRP... Higher MSRP = Higher Residual
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I met with two dealers and their first qoutes (no haggling or hard negotiating) were the following
1)MSRP 47900, $1200 discount - 0dn = $767 / month
2)MSRP 47475, 0 discount - zero down = $740 / month
*from what i am reading, i should be able to do much better than $1200 discount, i am seeing in the range of 2000-2500 off MSRP in other posts?
*when i ask for a breakdown of fees, MF, etc., what ranges should i be looking for?
*from the above guys, looks like dealer 2 was a much better offer, especially since i hadn't even asked for a discount yet (sure they will give one)
*does it make a difference if it is a "on-the-lot" car vs. ordering?
*is there a major difference of the deal i will get on coupe vs. Sedan, (except the obvious diff in MSRP?
*ANY RECOMMENDATIONS ON A DEALER IN DALLAS OR TEXAS?
MUCH much much appreciated. coming off of 3 AUDIs, but absolutely disgusted with the lease rates (MF & residual on A5 i ordered disgusting and my salesman sucks)
Here's their offer...
2008 328i
Leather Interior
12K Miles
$0 Down
MF .00175
$ 34,000
Residual 63%
36 Mos.
Monthly Pymt. $ 436 plus tax
Sounds good to me. What do you think? Thanks!!
Car_man
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Car_man
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As far as what you will have to pay at lease signing goes, you will have to pay your car's first month's payment, a security deposit equivalent to that payment rounded up to the nearest $50 increment (unless you are a returning BMW FS lessee), BMW FS' $625 acquisition fee, any capitalized cost reduction that you choose to make (ideally this should be $0), and any required state taxes or fees.
While it doesn't technically make a difference in terns of the lease program that you get, dealers are usually much more anxious to move a unit that they physically have on their lot than they are to order one for a customers. There are two main reasons for this. The first is as the old saying goes, "a bird in hand is worth two in the bush." A dealer would rather seal a deal immediately than risk having it fall apart as a customer waits for their ordered vehicle to arrive. The other main reason is that dealers are constantly paying floorplan interest on the vehicles that they have in inventory. The sooner they sell them, the sooner the can stop paying this interest. As a result, consumers are usually able to get better deals on vehicles that dealers physically have in inventory than on ordered units.
Car_man
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* 2008 335i Coupe
* Premium Package (manual transmission)
* Sport Package
* iPod
* Metallic paint
* Exterior Color: graphite grey
Prices (per Edmunds):
======== Coupe ============
MSRP: $40,800 + options = $46,100
Invoice: $37,535 + options = $42,425
======== Convertible ============
MSRP: $49,100 + options = $53,600
Invoice: $45,170 + options = $49,335
Target price (are these possible?):
Coupe: $2,000 down, $500/month + tax
Convertible: $2,000 down, $620/month + tax
Can someone please post the residual and money factors for these cars? Can any dealer offer some specific deals? I am in Southern California, but am willing to drive to Northern California, San Diego or Phoenix
Thanks.
Car_man
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Car_man
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Let's work up a payment on the convertible now. According to my calculations, if you were to lease a 2008 BMW 335i Convertible that has an MSRP of $53,600 and a selling price of $49,835 (again $500 over invoice, which might not even be attainable) through BMW Financial Services right now for 36 months with 15,000 miles per year, your zero down, pre-tax monthly payment would be around $730. Again, this is higher than you were hoping for. I used a money factor and residual value of .00275 and 59% to calculate this payment.
Car_man
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Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
MSRP (including destination) $54520
Cap Cost (ED invoice + Dealer profit) + 6.25% (must pay tax on total in TX) $51382
Cap Reduction: $1580
Residual 59% for 15k miles/year
Term 36 months
MF: [.00275+.0007(max dealer markup agreed upon)] - .00049 for MSDs = .00296
I get lease payments of $730. This is not what dealer just sent to me.
Am I missing something? i used the lease calculator on autoleaseadvisers.com
Thanks in advance.
Im looking to get the premium pkg on the car. I'm wondering if I could get the run down on what a good sale price would be and what the residuals and MF's are for feb on both the cars. I'm looking for 36/12K lease. I am a returning BMW FS customer and I would like to put 0 down and only pay drive off. Are there any incentives for the holiday weekend? (i'm in SoCal if that makes a difference)
Im trying to keep my payments at $500/mo..is that possible??
Thanks to anyone that can help!
I am lookint at a 2008 335xi, with options the MSRP $48,475. I will be leasing in St. Louis Missouri. The terms are either 2 years/12k per year or 2 years/15k per year.
I can't figure out how to find the residual value or money factor that is current, although I read that 0.002 is good/expected.
Can anyone tell me if that, with the above 2/12k per year, if $615/month with total at signing $3600 (approx) is a good deal, and how negotiable that would be?
The due at signing is 2500 + 1st month + 500 (?tax).
Or even tell me how to get the numbers and calculate it??????
Thanks again.
However, those links won't do you much good without knowing the residual values & money factors for the BMW(s) you're interested in. Go to the Bimmerfest web site, select Forums & go to the Ask-A-Dealer section. At or near the top will be the current lease rates for every BMW sold in the U.S. These can change monthly (usually don't, but can), so if it's a few months before you're ready to pull the trigger, be sure to recheck.
There are other things to know, like the standard $625 bank/handling fee that is often marked up to $825, and how multiple security deposits can lower the money factor enough to be the equivalent of a very nice return on the amount "invested" for the term of the lease. The security deposit amount equals the lease payment rounded up to the nearest $50. Never pay any money "down" as a cap cost reduction -- the only cap cost reduction you want is an outright discount off MSRP. Your out-the door cost should equal one month's payment, the $625 handling fee & your security deposit(s), plus possibly tax, though that's usually worked into the monthly payment.
Those are the basics, but there's more if you're willing to read back through a few months (or years, if you're gung-ho) of the posts here.
Good luck & let us know how it turns out.
prem package/sport/cold + nav, rear parking distance, and comfort access
msrp $ 50,100
tax and title rolled in $685/month
purchase option $30,5**
I forgot the price the lease was based on.. it was suppose to be 700 above invoice.
thx
328xi, automatic, black sapphire metallic paint, 15,000 miles premium and cold weather packages.
MSRP: $40,925
Selling Price: $38,663
Residual: (61%): $24,964
Down Payment: $1500.00 (This includes aquitsition fee, dmv fees, and 1st months payment)
Payment: 36 months @ $490.00 + 10% tax = $539.00
Thanks!
Most dealers want at least $1500 over invoice and charge more for above fees and Bank fee of up to $825 sometimes. I am not saying it's not possible. I could not find any after contacting 8 dealers around LA.
I closed the deal with Center BMW in Sherman Oaks/ Van Nuys and dealt with their internet sales dept. directly via e-mails only. I appreciated their prompt response, no B.S. approach and respect for customer's time and intelligence level.
Only Car-Man is willing to do that (approximately every month or so -- timing is critical). Most of the other folks who know how to figure leases appear to be happy to guide people to resources so they can do it themselves. It's interesting that so few appear to be willing, even when they're told how. It's only arithmetic -- doesn't even begin to qualify as mathematics.
Go figure.