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2008 BMW 328 xi with premium package, cold weather package, ipod adaptor, automatic.
MSRP - $40,858 (invoice - $37,640)
Cap Cost - $38,540
36 months - 12,000 miles per year
Residual - 63%
Money Factor - .00165
Down Payment - $0
Monthly Payment - $496.54 (this includes tax)
Due at signing - $2089 (Acquisition $625, First Month $496, Security Deposit - $500, Registration - $262.50, Doc Fee - $199, Tire Tax - $6)
It was the easiest car deal i ever made and i highly recommend BMW of Freehold in NJ - John McBride was the salesman - very easy to deal with - no shady dealings. let me know if you have any questions!
1. i know that the msrp is DEFINITELY the first place to start. i am getting the idea that i should not be paying more than $1000 above invoice.
2. is the residual value fixed or negotiable? and does changing the lease from 10k to 12k to 15k change the overall please price much?
3. is the money factor another value which is set by BMW financial and non-negotiable?
4. what exactly is the bank fee and is that something which is required, or again is it negotiable?
any other tips regarding negotiating with dealers. i am trying, for the first time, not to negotiate the monthly price but instead to haggle down each parameter to the lowest and then just plugging in the calculation in hopes of a better deal. thanks to everyone in advance.
1 - the msrp is the sticker price on the car and i found with bmw - it seems to be about $3000 over invoice. you can go right here on edmunds.com and build a car the way that you want it and it will tell you both msrp and invoice of the car. it will also tell you what other people are paying in your area. it depends on the type of car - for bmw, i would try to pay no more than $1000 over invoice - this can be easy or hard depending on how popular the car is and how bad they want to make a deal. see my deal above - i saved about $2100 off msrp and paid about $900 over invoice.
2- the residual percentage is set by bmw each month. the residual values are different for each car and are also different depending on how many miles and lease term. for example - a 3 month lease with 10,000 miles a year on the bmw 328xi had a residual of 64% - with 12,000 miles, it went down to 63%. you can usually come on here and find out what the residuals are on the car that you are looking for. they are not negotiable so you want to make sure they are not using a different number and making money off of you.
3- the money factor is also set by bmw each month and each car has a different one - this is your interest rate - be careful as some dealers try to mark these up to make a profit. again, you can come on here and find out what the money factor is for the car you are looking at.
4- the bank fee is $625 for bmw - some dealers try to mark it up to $825 but i would not pay more than $625 for this. i don't think it is negotiable with bmw. i know that some dealers will waive this fee if you have tier one credit but i am not sure if bmw is one of them.
i would go to the dealer equipped with all of the numbers above as well as the target price you are looking to negotiate for the car. also, use the lease calculation with those numbers to get an idea of what your payment should be, before you go in. also, bring the equation with you and a calculator so that you can plug the agreed upon numbers into it while you are there. good luck and i hope some of this was helpful!
nicole
with:
Walnut Trim
6MT Transmission
Premium Package
Sport Package
Navigation
Lease Term - 36 months (34 payments remaining)
Lease Mileage - 10K per year
Lease Payment - $629 including taxes
car has 986 miles on it
the thing is he is moving overseas.is it worth taking it over?
BMW 328Xi sedan AWD with Premium package, Sport package with 8 way power seats and lumbar, 6 speed steptronic automatic transmission, heated front seats, ipod and usb adapter, logic 7 sound system with surround sound, Black sapphire metallic paint exterior, beige leather interior with burl walnut wood trim.
MSRP-------------------------------------- 43,375
Selling price------------------------------$ 41,875
Acquisition fee------------------------- 625.
Capital cost reductions-------------- zero
Residual value--------------------------- 63%
Money factor----------------------------- .00175
Lease term-------------------------------36 months
Monthly payment (12k)---------------------- 525.23
Security deposit----------------------- 550.
bmw 328i sedan
steptronic transmission
metallic paint
premium package
sport package
xenon lights
heated seats
and here are the lease terms that i am interested in:
12k - 15k miles
36-39 months
$0 down
I have figured the msrp to be $41,075. satishd, you got a great payment for a car that has a higher msrp than i do. i want the payment to be under $500 no matter what. but obviously i want the cheapest payment that i can get. so here's the deal, 1) what factors whould i start to haggle on, and 2) when is the best time to buy, i.e. with regards to money factor and residual etc..
thanks.
2008 335xi Black Sapphire Metallic / Terra
Cold Weather
Premium
Steptronic
Nav
Sirius
iPod
MSRP - $49,820
Selling price - $46,850 ($2970 off MSRP !!!)
Residual (36 mo / 10K miles per mo) - 64%
Money Factor - .0020
Monthly payment - $580
Total out of pocket - $3800 ($580 first payment + $600 security deposit + $1,514 tax + $625 acqui. fee + $125 doc fee + $270 registration + sup title fee $188 = $3,902 (he will round it down to $3,800))
I don't know how much of those doc fees, registration and supplemental title fees are pure profit for the dealer. You might challenge him on those. The $625 acqui. fee is the lowest they'll try to charge, but it is also pure profit, I hear. I'd work more on the total of those up front fees. The ones I read about most often on forums are something called MACO and training fees, and they usually total between $400 and $500.
The money factor is set by BMW Financial Services and can't go lower unless you pay multiple refundable security deposits. You can pay up to seven additional S.D.s. Each one will lower your money factor by .00007, but BMW will have $600 of your money for 3 years for each S.D. you pay. They're probably still a good deal, though, if you figure that you'll save about $5.50 a month for each SD that you give them, so you save $200 over the life of the loan for each $600 that you lend BMW, which is an 11% return on your money, I believe.
Also, 1 year left on Maintenance.
Thanks, In Advance
jpl
MSRP $39,200
Selling Price $37,100
$0 Down
$547 a month
36 Months
12k Year
Money Factor .00100
Residual 67%
All taxes and fees are rolled into the monthly. Thoughts????
I posted my question last week but cant find my own posting to see if it was answered. I'm going to try again.
I got a deal over the phone, but when I calculated the math to figure out my monthly lease payments it came out to $490.33, but the salemen told me $459.46. He also told me the amount due at signing is $2,793 , but I calculated $2,475.69. I cant figure out where is coming up with another $317. I'm a single female & I'm going by myself to try & get a good deal. Please review the figures below & let me know what you think. Thank you.
BMW 328xi, automatic, leatherrette seats, no extra package, 15000miles, 3yr lease.
MSRP $36,350
Residual Value (he said 61%) $22,173.50
Money factor .00165
Due at signing:
1st month $459.46
Security Deposit $0( my BMW lease is up 1-28-08)
Bank fee $625
Title fee $0
Reg. Fee $57.75
License fee $0
Tire recycle fee $12.50
Inspection fee $10.
Documentation fee $45
No cap reduction fee $0
Sales tax $1,265.98
Please let me know what you think. Is he going to come up with other charges when I go in for the signing? Is he not telling me the correct monthly fee, so he can get me in his office & then tell me it's $490, or did I calculate wrong?
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The money factor that I mentioned above is scheduled to run through January 2nd. It is difficult to say what BMW's new January program for this model will be like. If I was in the market for a new 3-Series, I personally would pull the trigger on it before the end of the year. Dealers will be motivated to squeeze as many vehicles in before the end of the money and calendar year that you should be able to negotiate a pretty good deal.
Good luck in your hunt for a new car and let us know if you have any other questions.
Car_man
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Car_man-
Thanks for the response. You confirmed my doubt about a money factor of .00100. That seems highly unlikely. Looks like most of the people here are intersted in the 328i. I am looking at a 335xi though. Is the money factor still .00165 or does the money factor differ by model? If it is different, do you know what it is for the 335xi?
I posted it in another message but here is the current deal that I've been offered. If I could get a better money factor, I would sign immidiately.
2008 335xi Black Sapphire Metallic / Terra
Cold Weather
Premium
Steptronic
Nav
Sirius
iPod
MSRP - $49,820
Selling price - $46,850 ($2970 off MSRP !!!)
Residual (36 mo / 10K miles per mo) - 64%
Money Factor - .0020
Monthly payment - $580
Total out of pocket - $3800 ($580 first payment + $600 security deposit + $1,514 tax + $625 acqui. fee + $125 doc fee + $270 registration + sup title fee $188 = $3,902 (he will round it down to $3,800))
328i and 328xi sedans: .00165
335i and 335xi sedans: .00200
328i and 328xi coupes: .00190
335i and 335xi coupes: .00235
If you're a new BMW customer, make one security deposit or you'll pay .00015 higher money factor. Make additional security deposits (up to 7) and you'll lower your money factor by .0007 for each SD.
They are trying to move 328 sedans. Everything else costs more. Coupe, wagon (my personal favourite), anything with a 335 engine & convertible drivers are invited to grab their collective ankles and. . .
I don't remember that ever occurring before..
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Any word on a change in January in money factor or reduction in cap. cost resulting from manufacturer incentives?
335xi MF is .00200 for Dec
My CA knows I am not buying in Dec so he has no reason to mislead me with regardds to the following info. He says that at the beginnign of Dec, BMW had put out a bullitin telling their dealership that they need to sell 'X' number of cars in Dec. They are currently being pushed on volume, not price. My latest offer is 3K off MSRP on a 335 when most say 2K off is the norm. That would seem to support this. He also sent me an email saying that yesterday they received another bullitin stating that there will be a slight increase for the 3-series in January that will amount to about $10 a month. He said to be able to lock in a Dec price you need to fill out a credit app online before the 31st and send it to the dealership of your choice. That dealership can honor the Dec MF for up to 60 days. Sounds like typical salesman talk, but again, he knows I am not buying in Dec. He was just giving me a heads up on a way to lock in the Dec MF for 60 days with no commitment. And if by chance the promos get better in Jan or Feb then you obviously get the better deal. If you place an order in Jan but did not submit the credit app you will get the Jan MF.
Bottom line, fill out a credit app this week. Wait until next week to see the new MF. If Jan MF is higher either sign with the Dec MF or wait until Feb to see if it gets any better. If you wait until Feb, make sure you can take delivery by the end of the month. If you take delivery past 60 days from Dec, you will lose the Dec MF.
Certainly verify all this with your local dealer before you decide to wait on a deal you are currently being offered. Hope this is not too confusing.
Prem, Sport, Paddle, Cold, Auto, Comfort, Nav, IPod, Metallic ($47,870)
$2500 down + 1st + Security (600) + Plates (150) (~$3,750)
We have to pay tax (7.75%)up front in Ohio.
Tax included: $580/month 10k/yr. 36 mos.
Is this a good deal? I wouldn't get the car until May or June, should I wait until March to do this?
Any assistance is most appreciated! My other option is the G35x in the summer, but this car is FAR better IMHO!
First month, tag, title and bank fee at delivery (in a few days). $817 plus tax for 39 months with 10k miles per year.
Good deal? Thanks!
10K = 64%
12K = 63%
15K = ???
Any idea on 15K?
12K is 1% lower than 10K
15K is 2% lower than 12K
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town (Tucson, AZ) yesterday. I'm posting the details here to see if my deal seems
crazy, and to get validation that I wasn't incorrect in my calculations.
Car Details:
* 335i Sedan w/ 6spd manual
+ ZSP Sport Package
+ ZPP Premium Package
+ iDrive Navigation
+ iPod /USB Adapter
+ Metallic paint (color: Sparkling Graphite Metallic, interior Gray / Burl Walnut trim)
(MSRP 46,900 including dest)
Lease: 3 Year (36 Month) / 12k/year. $3000 out of pocket.
After an hour of back and forth (they started out at $732 w/ tax), they came out with
two pieces of paper with lease numbers on them. The first piece of paper had the
dollar amounts for the lease, the second had stuff like taxes, money factor, residual
on it. At one point I pulled out my PDA w/ pocket excel and wrote the #'s down off
their sheet (not sure that they liked me doing that).
I offered them $44900 ($2000 off MSRP) to start with. They "accepted" this but then added $825 to that for the "aquisition fee".
=======================================================
Paper #1: Money Factor .0020, Residual 63%.
Paper #2:
Fees:
Doc Fee $239 (bogus?)
License $665 (this is accurate)
Dwn Pmt Sales Tax $108
First Pmt $652
--------------------------
Total $1661
Lease Numbers:
MSRP $46900
Sale Price $45725 -- they added an $825 aquisition fee here
Residual Amount $29547
Capcost Reduction $1339 -- My 3k after taking out those fees.
Net Cap Cost $44386
Depreciation fee $412
Finance Fee $188 --- This seems bogus to me! this is not @ .0020 MF?
Monthly Payment $652
==========================================================
Tax is 8.1%...
At this point I argued that "Paper #2" must have not used .0020 as the money factor, in fact it looks like they used .0025. The salesman threw me a sheet of paper, actually a printout from edmunds.com, on how a lease is calculated and said
"All leases are calculated the same, look for yourself, your calculations are
wrong". So I told him to use his calculator and the formula on the paper
he printed out:
(Negotiated Price + Residual Value) * Money Factor = Finance Fee.
He did and when it came out to $147 he put away the paper and said "well we don't
do leases like that, we use the computer." and stepped away.
At this point I think I pissed them off, he brought out the "general manager" who
said he was "already feeling bad about this deal" and he had "never seen a price
this low with so little profit in his 16 years at BMW".
I told him I couldn't buy a car with these numbers not adding up, and he insisted
along with the salesman that the MF was .0020 and I was wrong. So I walked.
I dont think I was wrong.. besides the stupid fees, which I dont think are legit,
They were doing two shady things:
#1 -- not being truthful about the money factor
#2 -- adding the aquisition fee to the negotiated price, which means it then
increases the term depreciation! Fees dont depreciate, the car does.
I really believe $590 a month is possible with $3k out of pocket, does that seem
crazy?
It doesn't really matter if they add it to the CAP cost, or you pay it out of the $3000, and your CAP reduction is smaller. The effect is the same. All charges, minus money upfront results in Net Cap Cost. Depreciation is Net CAP Cost minus Residual. It doesn't matter that the car depreciates, it's a mathematical formula.
Doc fee-- Extra profit for the dealer.. a lot of dealers charge this.
Money factor... Looks like they were marking it up the maximum to .0024, plus adding the .00015 security deposit waiver, for a total of .00255
They either don't know the money factors ("we just use the computer"), or they were lying to you ("we just use the computer"). Some salespeople have no idea what F&I does, what the mark-ups might be, etc... but, I can guarantee that the manager knows.
I don't know if you can get to $590, but given your paramaters, and the $3K upfront, you should certainly be able to get to $600-$610 without any problem.
Maybe you'll have to expand your search to Phoenix..
regards,
kyfdx
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I'm just not happy that they would show a printout that said the MF was .0020 and then use .00255 when calculating the numbers. The problem with the situation is that they got "upset" about me telling them the #'s did not make sense. I dont want to accuse them of being dishonest (even though of course they will only be as honest as they absolutely have to be) but I just want them to lower the MF, or atleast say what they are using.
One more question, do you know what the security deposit is? If it's refundable It might make sense to pay it and save the $10 or $11 a month.
Thanks.
So, yes... it is definitely wise to make the deposit. Returning BMWFS customers get the deposit waived, with no bump in the MF.
The 335i sedan isn't a high demand, low supply item. I think your offer of $2000 off MSRP was more than fair.. They shouldn't have to rake you over in the finance office to make up for it.
Most dealers that have doc fees aren't going to cut them, so it probably isn't worth wasting your breath on that one.. But, you should insist on the base rate MF (buy rate in industry lingo), and if they won't cut the acquisition fee to $625, then ask them to cut the price by that amount.
If you make the security deposit, get the buy rate on the MF, and get $200 cut out of the acq.fee, you'll knock $45/mo. off the payment they quoted you.. With tax, thats around $49/mo.less.
That would be a decent deal.
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to go back and deal with these guys... being the only dealer in town
I'd have to go there for service no matter what.
I have been puzzling over why they didn't just put the aquisition fee in the 'fee'
column but instead added it to the price of the car. While its true it doesn't
matter if my $3k goes to reducing the capcost or to fees, I think they make
an extra $50 in "sales tax" on the capcost reduction by adding it in
for the #'s they show to me. (the $108 tax)
Maybe it would have been easier to not talk lease numbers and just monthly
payment, but I always feel dumb doing that.
Most people don't understand money factors and lease calculations.. Dealers like those people... for obvious reasons. There is nothing wrong with negotiating by monthly payment, if you know how you are getting to that payment.
Good luck with it.
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In some states, tax is calculated based on the use of the car. For those states, when you want to roll the tax into the payment, the calculation is simple:
[(Monthly Depreciation Charge) + (Interest Charge)] * (Sales Tax) = Monthly Tax Charge
But what about states (like MD) where the tax is based on the selling price of the car? How do you determine the tax if you are rolling it into the payment? Is it simply:
(Sales Tax) * (Selling Price) / (Term) = Monthly Tax Charge
I think it wouldn't be like that since if it is going into the monthly payment you'd have to pay some sort of interest charge, but I'm not sure how to calculate it? Any pointers?
Thanks in advance.
Ross
TAX is added to the CAP cost, as BMWFS will pay it to the state upfront.
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