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Comments
GROSS CAP. COST ITEMIZATION
TOTAL DRIVE OFF: $0
CASH DUE ON DELIVERY: $0
M.S.R.P. is $35,475.00
Vehicle Price: $33,246.00 (i assume this means with all costs except license?)
License Fees: $264.00
GROSS CAPITALIZED COST: $34,105.00
MONTHLY PAYMENT DETERMINATION
Value of Vehicle + AMO's: $33,246.00
Gross Cap Cost: $34,105.00
Adj. Cap Cost: $34,105.00
Residual: $20,575.50
Depreciation: $13,529.50
Rent: $2,952.72
TOTAL OF BASE PAYMENTS: $16,482.22
Money factor .0015
# of Pmts: 36
Base Pmt: $457.84
Monthly Tax @ 7.750% $35.48
TOTAL PAYMENT: $493.32
Is this a good deal? Should the vehicle price be negotiated down.
Would this apply in CA?
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Dennis
G35 Journey:
24-69%-.00126
36-59%-.00150
39-58%-.00173
G35 6MT:
24-68%-.00126
36-58%-.00150
39-57%-.00173
G35 AWD:
24-70%-.00131
36-60%-.00150
39-59%-.00172
G37 Journey:
24-71%-.00184
36-61%-.00192
39-60%-.00190
G37 6MT
24-73%-.00184
36-62%-.00192
39-61%-.00190
These should all be 15k residuals, it would be +1% for 12k and +2% for 10k (10k not available on 24 month leases). These should be the buy rates for IFS top tier (0 and 1) lessees. Not everyone will qualify for these rates and many Infiniti dealers routinely mark up the buy rate for extra profit.
Dennis
Dennis
Dennis
Since the current offer seems to be similar to the past couple months and if the tax credit incentive is indeed set to go off for May 6, I guess May would be the best time to lease, am I right? This is a big savings for us folks in IL. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Basically, how does this bad credit affect the MF which in turn affects my monthly payments. I was told by dealers in reference to the est. monthly payments that it will increase from 50-100 a month for a 36 month lease.
I'd certainly would love to hear thoughts on this as I'm intent on leasing a G37 in Aug/Sept (maybe sooner) with at least 4000.00 down (I have about 5000.00 saved).
Thanks.
It does suck to lease in Illinois.. unfortunately, no tax credits that I'm aware of..
regards,
kyfdx
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They only publish the top tier rates you would have to work with a dealer to see if they would even do a lease for your and if so how bad it is. Check over at leasecompare.com and see what they will do for a third party lease. A base coupe for someone with a 730 score is 0.00224 and $523 a month, at 675 0.00241 / $533, at 650 0.00383 and $617, below 650 and no lease for you.
What *I* would do is get my credit in order and not take on a new, high dollar lease vehicle even if they could swing you a deal. Get your credit in order now and then enjoy something newer and nicer down the road for a good deal. Whatever you do now you are going to be paying way too much because of your credit history and your car credit history in particular. So I would do something cheap and affordable and make all the payments on time (and all your other bills too) until you have established a much higher score and a track record of always on time payments.
Dennis
BTW, since he couldn't give me the May money factor, he instead gave me 2 oil changes
I guess your lease is dated for April 30 so your term is 3 days too short?
Did you check the residual for last month VS this month? I didn't check, but it is possible the residual was higher for April than May which would make up for the higher April rate.
What color?
Dennis
Residual didn't change, 60%. The lease is for today which does bring up a good point. I guess I could have fought him on it to get the lower money factor but I already raked him on the price and I was happy. It probably is about $7/month I think difference and over the term it is about $250. I got 2 oil changes which is probably around $100. I guess maybe I left an extra $150 on the table. I can't cry about it. Not sure if all Infiniti dealers do it but I get a loaner car when I go in for an oil change and they will wash my car also. I couldn't be more happy with the dealer or the sales man. If anybody wants his name let me know (not sure if I can post it here).
Car is slate blue with black interior.
If they dated it today then the dealer is just going to get the extra from the MF as a little more profit since they can't write a lease dated today and use last month's numbers. If they dated it the 30th then it would go through but IFS would get all the money. In either case, it is not like it is a bunch of money. Note that the MF is not on the paperwork, just the payment, price, and residual.
I found the CD loading to be really easy and slick. I just drove around listening to XM or something already on the juke box while it ripped (quickly) the CD to the hard drive - of course I have all the original CDs so that makes it easier. Gracenote could not find a couple of my more odd CDs or a new release. If that happens to you don't bother typing the info in, just get a CF card and dump the unknown into to it, then use the free software from the Infiniti page to look it up online and write it back to the card, then upload it back from the card to the juke box. Sounds like a lot of trouble but it is simple compared to manually inputting the data.
You can get an ipod for cheap (refurb 4gb nano for $100) and load it up and just leave it in the car - then no need to rip anything.
CF cards are even better, I think my 4gb was $10-15 after rebate and you can find them for $25 pretty easy. I have seen 8gb for < $30 as well. You can't put more than 255 files in the root folder (I have been told) but I have way more tunes than that on mine and it works fine. As I said, you can browse folders and tunes while moving with the CF and you can't on the juke box, so just copying all your MP3s to a CF and leaving it in the dash is a much easier and better way to go than burning CDs and ripping them back to the hard drive juke box. The only annoying thing about the CF and folders is that it always returns to the folder level. So you pick song #3 in folder #5, if you then wanted to move ahead to the next song if you hit the steering wheel control it will change to folder #6 and not folder 5/song 4. If you do nothing it will play them in order in that folder then move on to the next. To skip songs you have to select the current folder again by hitting enter, then scroll to the song you want to play next. A small pain, but at least you can do this as you drive.
Between the XM, CD/MP3 player, CD changer (for sedans), juke box, ipod interface, CF slot, and the audio/video aux input in the console the G has to be the most music available factory system on the road
Dennis
Splash Guards
Trunk Cargo Net
Premium Package
Performance Tire/Wheel Pk
Navigation Package
MSRP $38,025 Selling Price (CAP COST) $34,967
$823.48 to cover drive offs
24m 12k miles
$485.99 a month, (this includes tax)
You guys like it?
2008 g35 sport w/prem package , splash gaurd:(includes mats and cargo net etc)
the lease term is 39 month w/ 15k per year.
- the sticker price is $37,935
- the sale price is $36,635
- the money factor is 0.00185
- the residual value is $ 22,381.65
- the paymt. per month is $ 520 to $530 w/ approved credit.
- the total tag, title, license, and 1st paymt. due up front are$1,840.29
thoughts/suggestions and or ideas are appreciated
$2,548 due at signing = (bank fee $795, destination $715, plus first month $348 +NJ tax 7%)
$348 a month for 24 months
was told to add NAVIGATION would be an extra $20 per month
Is this a good deal? Let me know what you think
Thanks!
Dennis
39 month - 15k miles/year
MSRP: $39,295.00
Cap Cost: $36,472.41
Residual Value: $23,577.00
Due at Signing: $1,700.00 [includes 1st mo pmnt, acquisition, docs & fees]
Monthly Payment: $480.00 [includes 7% NJ sales tax]
Hope this helps anyone in NJ.
I thought it was a good deal. :shades:
Thanks for the response and recommendation. Reading through many posts, I understand the reasoning behind not putting a lot down up front, but the reason for me doing this is to convince IFS that I'm committed to the lease. Is it impractical for me to believe that putting a lot of $ down will give me a better rate (or if my credit is incredibly poor that I will get approved)? I'm willing to take the risk that you mentioned in your post in order to be able to lease a g37 later this year.
What I still cannot figure out for the life of me is why the cap cost, mf and residual matter whatsoever at the end of the day.
After all, practically, it is much easier I've noticed, to negotiate when you can show the dealer that you know what you are talking about. Once that stage is done and I can verify that the dealer is using the correct MF and resids I can be sure that the monthly should work out ok.
But for someone that goes straight to monthly payments and seems to get a very low number, why worry about how much the car costs? Why should it matter? The only guess I've had is that one of the articles lists that if they overcalculate residual then the car will have inflated value at the end of the lease and that when you try to buy it it will be worth more than it really carries in value. But besides for the person who's buying their car at the end of the lease, why should anything but monthly payments matter except for negotiating purposes?
Again I've read all the articles that are usually suggested, so I apologize for being a bit dense here.
Thanks for your time.
Black on Black
Splash Guards
Trunk Cargo Net
Premium Package
Performance Tire/Wheel Pk
Navigation Package
MSRP $38,025 Selling Price (CAP COST) $34,967
$485.99 to cover drive offs (It was previously 825.00 see my earlier post)
24m 12k miles
$485.99 a month, (this includes tax)
They emailed me today with the deal. I told them I would be there at 3:30. When I arrived I stepped out of my car and the salesman was there with the keys for a test drive.
The car is amazing.
I filled out the standard forms and had to wait 20 minutes to sign the final docs. This is my second car leased through this dealership with the same sales guy.
If you want more info on the place let me know.
Thanks again for all the input.
I've poked around Carmax and it looks like similar cars are selling for $25,500 or so and Bluebook value is somewhere around $27,000. I'm thinking of buying a car when my lease ends (not an Infiniti), and was wondering if it would be worth buying out my lease and then trading in the car at a higher value to pocket the difference. Has anyone looked into this or done something similar? Something tells me that there shouldn't be a way to profit from this, but, after a small amount of investigation, the numbers seem to work out so far. Just wondering if it's worth looking into more. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Here, it would be 7% so your $21,500 cream puff would cost you $23,005 and would wipe out any profit you thought was there. That said, if you are going to buy your next car and not lease, then in most states you get a tax credit for the trade - but you are not likely to get $23,005 trade in.
Carmax has greatly inflated prices and only they can get those kind of numbers. If you took your car in to sell it to them they might offer $21k or something.
You DO have another option besides turn it in or buy it, you can sell it to a car dealer if they will give you more than the buy out price. Say you took it to Carmax, Driver's Way, and the Infiniti dealer and one of them would go $22k on it. Then you could sell it to them and pocket the $500 profit and no tax would be due.
The final option is to sell your car retail but do it through a car dealer that you either know (buddy) or pay a nice fee to. If you do that you can get a higher price even after paying the dealer and again no tax is due from you. Finding a dealer to do this "buy and bye" for a reasonable fee could be a problem, however.
Dennis
Also, can someone offer some advice on how to "negotiate" the money factor. For example, one dealer quoted me a money factor of .00200 and claimed this was not negotiable (in April). However, the Infiniti Financial money factor for a 39 month lease was .00163 but I could not get close to this number when negotiating. What is the secret? What am I missing?
Simply ask the sales person if they mark up the money factors (over email). If they do move to the next one.
Dealers mark up the factor when a customer walks in with a "monthly payment" for them to meet. They find a way to meet that payment with marked up margins.
Start with the purchase price....don't pay more than 500 over invoice. Then use the money factors/residuals...found on this site to negotiate your payment.
Also they mark up the mf according to credit score.
Good luck.
Your credit score as determined by IFS also has an effect on the rate you get. The buy rate numbers post are for top tier lessees and if BASED ON THE IFS SCORE you are in a different tier you will pay more.
I posted the rates that I have for May back on the 2nd, in this message.
Dennis
These prices can be regional, what someone in SoCal posts may not be anything I can do anywhere near home - or you either.
If your company does business with Nissan / Infiniti or you know someone that works for them you can get a VPP claim code which will put you around $300 over invoice. If you get your G from a dealer with no doc fee than that would be your price. You can look up your company name here on the Nissan VPP page.
Dennis
Southern Ca
39 month lease w/ 18,000 miles per year = $515/month (including taxes)
$1750 due at signing - includes 1st payment, doc fee, bank fee, and GA tag/lemon law fee.
I've crunched the numbers and it looks like a pretty good deal. Thinking of pulling the trigger this week.
Dennis
Dennis
Best of luck
laderamacguy
car_man or kydfx, others - do you have Southern California lease program details for this car (12,000 an 15,000 mile/year)?
Thanks,
Lee
I can't say for sure what the numbers will do, but times are slow for car sales I think and they are likely to keep the rates low and residuals high to move cars. Rather than turn the M in early and have to pay for it, could you not just keep driving it and get the new G ? Not a lot of overlap and if you picked up your new car at the end of the month you could drive all of June on the temp tag?
Dennis
Quick question...my dealer showed me two identical cars, one included a price increase that marked up the MSRP by $800. Was there an increase in the invoice price as well? The car we're dealing on is lower by the $800, so if I wait it may increase the deal as well.
Do you know if the G35 sedan deals are better than the G37 coupe? I'm considering both due to the fact that I have two small children. We don't ride in my car often, but having 4 doors may be the smarter move altogether.
Thanks again.