2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon

chuckster63

I have a 07 Tahoe LTZ with the rear DVD system. A couple issues 1) A loud noise/vibration on the passenger side when I accelerate at low speeds. 2) When the rear passengers are using the rear entertainment system (DVD or Radio) and I am listening to a different source in the front, we can hear the rear sound very low mixed in with the front sound.

Anyone else have these issues ?

rsjohn

there 9 clips that whole the wood trim in. it comes off hard. You have to be carefull you don't bend it or damage your dash. take a sharp point to get behind it start at the top center then work your way to the side and pry open at the top then work your way down. fine were the clip are and pry on them. good luck

rsjohn

I don't understand these companys. they spend millions trying to get customers. but do nothing to keep there customers. Being a UAW/GM employee I can understand your fraustion. dealing with some of these managers every day is a constand battle to get them to do the right thing. Sad part its the worker that loses there job because of bad manage. but the manager never lose there job. I can only hope that the right manager or some one in power get your letter and does something about it. :mad:

sjenkinzz

Would be interested in the NavTech version also. Website?

chile96

Ordered the nav override yesterday under the Avalanche Group Buy(saved $40!). Was a bit leary about when I'd receive it because of all the compaints on this board but lo & behold, 2 hrs after ordering - i had an email from UPS giving me the tracking number and ETA

now just have to focus on not breaking the dash - can't do any worse than last weekend when I stripped the hub on my 911 turbo and had to have it towed off 300 miles to the nearest dealer

rockin_ltz

Hey SJenkinzz...Here's the website:

http://www.coastaletech.com/GMLOCKPICK.htm

Hope this helps.

sheffer

Another company that offers a NAV override system is http://www.avelectronic.com/. This system gives you the ability to add a rear camera, game console (xbox), etc.

sovereignmgmt

I don't see where the avelectronic system will let you program your nav while driving.

rhame13

www.nav-tv.com

My stereo guy is going to be putting in this unit. Like many of you, I too am afraid of breaking something.

duval1

Well installed it today and it works as advertised!

shawnhackett

I also use the GM Lockpick and added a Power Acoustik Mobile TV Tuner (TUNER-5R) and Power Acoustik FILM-1 Antenna on the back windows.

I can get the 4 major networks pretty clear on the road. Works great for watching a game while waiting for the wife in the mall.

Here are the product links...

http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?dp=F2C2D252E6421253A3D363D3B357E37363736333B- 313&stk_code=powtuner5r&svbname=30&CA=Y

http://www.cardomain.com/item/POWFILM1

http://www.coastaletech.com/GMLOCKPICK.htm

tony97gt

Now that I hear all you guys talking about the nav system, I'm kinda wishing I would have bought the LTZ. I got the LT3 instead, but saved almost 10k. I got my LT3 for $40k out the door. Guess I'll have to figure out a way to mount a screen up front for me. Maybe in the rearview mirror or maybe a fold down in the drivers sunvisor. Any ideas? Let me tell you all, adding the HID lights was definately worth it! What a difference it makes! Both in seeing at night and the compliments that people give about the truck. Money well spent.

chile96

But to be able to get the TV tuner to work, I'm assuuming that you need to have the DVD option from the factory? We just have the nav and no dvd but I would be interested in somehow using my front screen for movies/TV (legally of course )

chile96

Just back from a road trip:

Couple of times we'd turn the car off and instead of the radio shutting off when we opened the door, it stayed on. Would turn the car back on and the radio had a mind of it's own - couldn't change the channel, couldn't adjust the volume, couldn't turn off. Now we have a nav so it's a touchscreen and the screen would correspond to whatever we did like change the channel or turn it off but the sound coming out of the speakers would not falter - same channel, same volume and not turn off. Did this a couple of different times and finally shut off by itself several minutes later after locking the car? Steering wheel controls did not work at all.

Also, the spring mechanism for the fuel filler door broke. I went to push it in so it would pop out and all of the sudden some plastic piece(tube like)fell out from something in there and appeared out from under the car. Luckily my wife had longer nails so she could barely pry the door open.

So anybody experience either or know what's up? Will be going to the dealer hopefully this week.

greggboston

Four highway trip legs this weekend in the Suburban -
1. about 100 miles, 17.4 MPG (terrain flat and rolling hills, 70-75 MPH, includes one rest stop and 2 toll booths)
2. about 90 miles, 17.2 MPG (terrain flat and rolling hills, 70-75 MPH, includes 2 toll booths)
3. about 60 miles, 17.2 MPG (terrain flat with minimal hills, 70-75MPH some 75-80MPH)
4. about 60 miles, 18.8 MPG (terrain flat with minimal hills, 65-70MPH some 70-75MPH)

2 adults, 3 kids, minimal cargo, no major traffic slow downs. Drove with smooth accelerations and tried to lock in V4 mode as much as possible.

We appear to be getting the EPA mileage ratings.

After about 10 minutes on the highway V4 mode seemed to kick in for longer stretches, not sure if this just was my imagination or the computer.

stormin800

Chile96,
I can only reply to the fuel door issue. I have an 07 Yukon and within one week of ownership, the samething happened to me. It is a very simple part. The push button is suppose to pop out when you put pressure on the door. Mine stuck in and didn't pop out. I replaced it with the new part in 1 minute. The piece is held in with 2 side clips that release when depressed. Obviously it is covered. Interestingly, the bottom of the defective part had an X on it. I presume this meant that it was defective but installed on the vehicle anyway. Ask for your old part to see if yours has an X on the bottom. It has worked fine ever since it was replaced with the properly inspected part.

Norm

jmaynard

Couple of times we'd turn the car off and instead of the radio shutting off when we opened the door, it stayed on. Would turn the car back on and the radio had a mind of it's own - couldn't change the channel, couldn't adjust the volume, couldn't turn off. Now we have a nav so it's a touchscreen and the screen would correspond to whatever we did like change the channel or turn it off but the sound coming out of the speakers would not falter - same channel, same volume and not turn off. Did this a couple of different times and finally shut off by itself several minutes later after locking the car? Steering wheel controls did not work at all.

I too experienced this for the first time this weekend. Not sure what happened, but I got in and turned the key on then off again and it stopped. this could be signs of a more serious problem. Anyone else seen this and had the dealer look into it, I would love to hear the results.

jmaynard

Greg, please post your engine and rear axel configuration. I just got back from a 500 mile trip.

3.43 rear end with the 5.3 engine.

All highway and got 14.3. I am starting to notice a slight improvement in mileage as I get more miles, but still not anywhere what is advertised and still cannot get the DoD to engage on flat surfaces, only down hill. I am convinced that if it would engage at 70-75 while on flat road I would be getting the advertised MPG.

hawkeye54

Had the same symptoms occur a few months ago. Dealer told me it required a software upgrade. Weird the problem didn't occur since inception, but his solution worked and it hasn't done it since.

nosbor77

Gregg.. I'm sure you saw the computer drop into V4 mode plenty of times on your trip.. The question is, did you see it drop into V4 mode while you were giving it gas??

Shane

chile96

and just to make sure.........for those that have added the HID kits to their trucks, do the ballasts make a humming sound for the first 5 seconds when they turn on?

zepres

Has anyone installed the Genuine GM chrome door handles on their 07 Tahoe (not the snap-on kind). Would love to hear your experience.

Thanks

73shark

Have same drivetrain and the only way I can get V4 on level or even a slight up grade is in tow/haul mode. Only 2,100 mi and getting 12/16 mpg. Dealer service says functioning normal as designed :confuse: but they were going downhill when it was in V4 mode. I'm going to keep after them.

greggboston

3.73 rear end with the 5.3 engine, Suburban, LT3 trim.

Ours was built at the end of July in Wisconsin.

If V4 doesn't seem to be engaging on flat surfaces try this - go a few miles per hour over your cruising speed then ever so slightly let up on the accelerator watching the DIC. Your speed may drop slightly but V4 mode should kick in. Your foot won't need to be totally off the gas but it will be a very light touch.

Two observations - #1: V4 mode does not seem to want to lock in when you first hit the highway - perhaps the computer waits for 10 minutes or so before allowing more V4 mode, and #2 the longer timewise I drove the more V4 mode seemed to engage - not sure if this was me learning when the system would kick into/stay in V4 or the engine computer was adapting to my driving conditions.

I also sensed that driving 70-75 initially gave me more of a chance of switching into V4 mode but I now think that is the "computer wait period" not due to speed. I have seen V4 kick in at lower speeds consistently.

What was your vehicle build date? I wonder if you have a different firmware/software program running your engine computer than mine. Perhaps you could request your dealer verify you have the latest software version for the engine computer.

greggboston

Shane,
No. Once in V4 mode I could only give it very very light gas while the vehicle was not under load and have it stay in V4 mode. As soon as I gave it gas to maintain speed uphill, accelerate to pass or get on the highway it dropped back to V8 mode. It did seem to stay "locked" in V4 mode longer, the longer I drove. And I was surprised that the trip leg that had the most driving in traffic and started from sea level and proceded inlaid (more uphill I thought) was the leg that had the best MPG. It was the leg that I drove the slowest overall and that may have been the greatest factor in getting the 18+ MPG.

Gregg
Boston, Mass

junglegeorge

Here is my latest theory: It appears to me that it is not speed, however RPM. At 2100 – 2300 RPM you are in the sweet spot of the power curve. Unfortunately with the 373’s in-order to run in this range you will need to maintain speeds on 70 -75 MPH, on the other hand with the 411’s you can rum the higher RPM at a lower MPH (65-70 MPH). The big question is which actually conserves the most fuel ?? Running 411’s in V4 or 373’s in V8, I suspect that the answers is 411’s as you look back at previous posts you will see that the 411 owners are reporting slightly better MPG. I am trying to get GM to switch my gears from 373’s to 411’s LOL.

rockin_ltz

Glad to see you got them in and working. To answer your question about the "hum", yes...I too hear a higher pitched hum or maybe better described as a whining sound.

I'm going to call it normal as I hear it most every time the lights "ignite".

Hope you like your new HID's...What K-temp did you end up getting. Mine are the 6000K's on my LTZ, but I also ordered the 8000's for my Honda.

tony20fan

I had a friend over this weekend who has a 2004 Suburban Z71. He was admiring my 07 Tahoe, but was concerned with the front end clearance. The new Tahoe has a much fatter bumper and also the black piece that goes across the bottom. The older Z71 has a thinner bumper and has a good foot more front end clearance. I love the "lowered" look of my 4 x 4, but I live in the mountains of CA and have a very large driveway that I don't plow. I just blast over the snow berm and into the garage. I had an 03 Z71 Tahoe and never had a problem. Now I'm concerned that I'm going to rip off my fog lights, etc. if I continue to do this. Has anyone had any clearance problems? Winter will soon be upon us. Should I make an appointment at the body shop?!? :confuse: But because I absolutely love my new Tahoe, I'd get out a shovel!

junglegeorge

I have the same concerns related to front end clearance, I am planning to add a 2 in leveling spacer to the front suspension. With the auto ride self leveling feature of the LTZ, it makes no sense for the rear to ride 2 inches higher than the front. I can see the advantage of the 2 in higher rear if you have a Tahoe without auto ride, as this approach anticipates load in the cargo area. Also the owners manual instructs/suggests you remove the lower black valance prior to off roading. Has anyone completed this spacer mod? If so which spacer did you use? Any feedback would be appreciated. George

jerrywimer

I agree about it making no sense for the LTZ trims with Autoride to have the rear raised 2" like the rest of the models. It's probably the one thing I'd like to change about my Avalanche too- but by lowering the rear by 2" instead of raising the front. I understand you guys are after more ground clearance under the front valance. I personally don't mind what I already have. The 03 Trailblazer I had was even lower than the Av is now, and I never found myself in a situation with it where it mattered. That, and the extra large gap in the rear wheelwells above the tires are the reasons I'd rather go with a rear drop.

jmaynard

I am by no means a suspension specialist, but I would imagine that the aerodynamics and the overall ride quality will be seriously degraded by the addition of these spacers. If the sound and feel are not as important as ground clearence then go for it. Also, I do remember a few years back some suspension products that the level could be controlled by a panel inside the automobile. I assume similiar to the ones on the 'dancing' cars. Perhaps that would be a better alternative. Granted, probably more costly, but you would have the best of both worlds.

jmaynard

Greg, you seem to be having even more luck than me. I cannot give it any gas. In fact, I cannot even keep up downhill with the flow of traffic because the vehicle starts to slow as soon as I release the gas enough to have the V4 engage. If I try to 'ever so slightly' press the gas peddle, it immediatly switched to V8. This is uphill, downhill, on level ground, anytime.

Now, back to the basics of this discussion. I am confident that 4 cylinders is more than enough to power this vehicle at 70-80 mph on level highway. I am convinced that 4 cylinders is more than enough to maintain a steady speed cruising downhill, at least enough to keep up with the flow of traffic. I am even convinced that 4 cylinders is more than enough to power the vehicle on Texas highways (central Texas, not the hills area) even on slight uphill grades. Al it takes is GM to step up to the plate and get the programming right.

Some others have suggested an override button. I support this. I think that if ride is to be effected then the driver should have a choice, but even the basics could work without effecting the ride. Just give us V4 mode when cruising on the highway. I only need the full 8 when passing or towing.

junglegeorge

If you look at the power bell curve chart on the 5.3, you will see that the engine has very little power at relatively low RPM’s and peaks out at approximately 4500 RPM (sorry I do not have the chart in front of me). So when the engine is utilizing all 8 cylinders at lower RPM it has much less power than at higher RPM’s where it builds 320 HP at approximately 4500 RPM. Now switch to V4 mode, and for simplicity lets say you cut this available power in half. You can see that you need to raise the RPM to get into the power curve so that the V4 mode will carry the load. You can prove this by placing the truck in tow mode and stretching out the shift pattern, you will see that as long as the truck stays in 3rd gear, it will utilize the V4 mode. The onboard computer appears to monitor power, (remember the old vacuum gages) once the engine is unloaded, especially when you are coasting, it allows activation of the V4 mode. If the power generated by 4 cylinders is not capable of carrying the load, the computer switches to the V8 mode. I agree that the parameter for this switch should be adjustable or user controlled, however the answer is a lower (numerically higher) 4.10:1 final gear. George

gyoss

Is there anyone that could provide me with a GM Employee PIN for the purchase of a 2007 Tahoe/Yukon. I have an Expedition coming off lease this month I think that the 2007 GM Trucks look NICE.
Thanks
Gary

jmaynard

Gary, what exactlaly are you asking for. Do you want to know what GMS pricing for a vehicle is or are you asking for someone, that does not know you, to provide their employee discont? Since there is a tax burden, taken from the employees payroll or billed after the purchase, I doubt that anyone within GM will give you a confirmation number to use in the purchase of a vehicle. If you only want to see GMS pricing, it is available to anyone at https://www.gmfamilyfirst.com.

A better bet would be to ask for a reputable dealer that will offer you the best discounts.

sastoker

Well I've learned a thing or two during my travels over this Labor Day weekend.

1) My slight hesitation problem went away completely once I switched to the 2 high option instead of leaving it on the auto option. I don’t know what that is about but it works perfectly now.

2) A note for the 4X4 owners. I did 500 miles at 17 MPG this weekend using the auto option. On the way home I had it in the 2 high option and it bumped up to 19.5 MPG. I couldn’t believe it had that much of an impact. With 2 high, going 75 mpg I get 19 ish and going 65 mph I actually get the 21 mpg that is estimated.

stever

I was thinking you meant the GMID program. Check out the Hummer H3 GMID discussion for info about it. The Chevy Tahoe: Prices Paid & Buying Experiences discussion may be of help too.

junglegeorge

Fantastic I can defiantly understand the 2H vs Auto issue, in Auto you are turning the front axle.

What gear do you have ?

What brand fuel are you using?

What octane?

Any ethanol?

deovindice

I put in a leveling kit about 2-3 months ago now. I've noticed exactly zero difference in the ride, handling, etc. I have some pictures but not sure how to get them posted on here.

sastoker

I'm not even sure what gear ratio I have. Is there an easy way to tell?

I'm not loyal to any brand of fuel. Typically it is at Sam's Club when my wife is driving.

We have only used the lowest grade octane. We have not tried the ethanol yet.

I should also note that my odometer turned 10K during our travels this past weekend. I have the Airaid cold air intake kit on it and the Gibson cat back exhaust. I'm assuming that is helping me to some degree. Even if it is 1 mpg or so.

rockman59

Sastoker said: With 2 high, going 75 mpg I get 19 ish and going 65 mph I actually get the 21 mpg that is estimated.
____________________________________________________________
Careful there Sastoker.....Rspencer will be on your case because he "knows" those kind of mpg numbers are not obtainable with the 5.3 engine. He thinks that because he gets such poor mileage with his vehicle that none of the other owners can get anywhere near 20 mpg.

tidester

...will be on your case...

Let's avoid making it personal.

tidester, host

chile96

Thanks again for all the assisstance you gave me - couldn't have done it without ya :shades:

I got the same kit you did but haven't taken her out for a run yet. Been driving the little porsche around trying to get her some exercise while we have a break in the weather. But the HID's appear to be nice - just hope they are level and don't have to mess with re-aiming them

Next task just came by UPS today - the coastal tech journey for the nav override. I'm thinking Sat morning before the football games start but after I've been able to sleep off the hangover. Might need to call for some assistance then too I presume ?!!?!

kssooner

Having spoke to www.soundgate.com,the manufacturers of the SIRIUS module for GM, they told me that the 07's capability is non-existent at this time but in a few months the GM1 will be available.

jmaynard

I am curious. With XM available why would one want Sirius? I have both, XM in both vehicles and Sirius on feed from my cable company, and I still prefer XM. Sirius seems to have some good mix channels and a lot of talk radio, but I can tune to AM for talk and FM for mix.

Just curious why one would pay to have another sat radio provider in a GM vehicle?

junglegeorge

Would love to see the pic's. Which kit did you install? How much effort did the installation take?

junglegeorge

Thanks for the info. I also have the Airaid CIA and am looking at a cat back Exhaust, how do you like the Gibson? Is it too loud? You can tell the gear ratio by looking in the glovebox on the equipment label look for GT-X.

GT-3 = 3.42's
GT-4 = 3.73's
GT-5 = 4.10's

rjm1234

Has anyone determined what is causing the high pitched whining noise that is generated by the engine. I have read several of the previously posted messages regarding this issue but have not yet learned of the cause or a fix. I have owned my Tahoe for 5 months now and love the vehicle but this noise is driving me crazy.

sastoker

That’s ok. Sometimes seeing is believing. I’ll have to take a picture of my information panel during my next highway trip & post it.

jmaynard

OK, I am going to try to help here. Back in the old days, the radios would pick up static interference in the DC voltage and that would feed past the electronics resulting in a whine coming out of the speakers. One would have to install a line filter on the positive side of the circuit to clean the noise. Now, I don't remember what this component was called but I think that they were available at Radio Shack. That is one thing to look into.

Next, there is the possability that your speaker ground is somehow going to the chassis. If this is the case, it should be corrected. Same goes for the video sources. All electronic components should be grounded to the battery and NOT the chassis.

Just to be sure that we are all on the same page here, do these tests.

Does the problem occur with the radio turned off? If so, the problem is related to the speaker wiring.

Does the problem occur when te radio is turned on and memic the engine speed (whine more as you accellerate)? This would indiccate a problem with the power going to either the radio or av equipment.

Does the problem occur when the radio is on but does not mimic the engine? This would indicate the radio grounding is incorrect.

These are just my thoughts based on some past exerience with much less complicated electronic equipment. Hope it helps.