Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

tpot11

i have a 07 as well. Is the noise happening when your going around 40-45 mph. And is it like a humming or whoooing noise kinda like a metal rubbing noise but really subtle? I have that sound too. They said it was normal

imidazol97

>This is standard in this car. anytime the door is unlocked withouth an opening of a door

That's a ridiculous setup for a car's locks to use. If a person unlocks the doors, they should be unlocked.

thegraduate

I'm glad the car is made like this. My grandmother keeps keys in her purse, and inadvertently pushes the buttons on the keys sometimes (You can hear it honk sometimes because it is repeatedly pressing "Lock"). This way if she hits the unlock by mistake, it will lock them back after a while and she doesn't have to worry about it.

I just have to know, who is it that takes more than thirty seconds to get a door open, and if it is going to take longer, what must the circumstances be that you need to unlock the car so much sooner? You shouldn't unlock your car so far away as to allow someone else to get in your car before you could get there. That's just safety-mindedness in today's crime-ridden world.

I hope people realize, that once a door is opened, the car will NOT lock back after 30 seconds; only if no door is opened after pressing the button will the car lock back.

tallman1

Yes, this feature threw me at first. I can't remember the circumstances but I unlocked the doors and then must have talked to someone or did something to delay entry. I was surprised that the doors were locked again. Once I understood how it works, it really hasn't been a big deal... and I can see how it might help at some point.

Besides, being able to roll down all 4 windows with the key FOB more than makes up for any complaint I might have.

amao

The noise is most noticable during low speed, say around or below 20mph but it also exists around 40-50mph but more subtle. As to the sound, I don't know which word can describe it. But think about those movies about submarines or even say "Titanic", it is the noise occurs when the metal shell of the ship or submarine under the high pressure of water, the "creaking" noise.

And I can't understand how they can claim it is normal. I have driven many cars but few of them will make this kind of noise and let alone the fact that this is a brand new car, a HONDA. I have make an appointment for tomorrow and will keep you posted.

thegraduate

Besides, being able to roll down all 4 windows with the key FOB more than makes up for any complaint I might have.

As an Alabama resident (where summer temps average in the mid-90s), I strongly second that! It eliminates the need to crack a window or pop open the sunroof, because a flood of hot air is allowed out a few seconds before you arrive at the car.

elroy5

Long cranks to start the car.

This is a problem with the fuel pressure regulator. The engine will still take longer than some others to start. You just have to hold the key a little longer. My Toyota truck was like that too.

Obnoxious engine and Vibrations in the pedal with humming noises around 40-45 mph

The motor mounts probably need adjustment.

Noticeable "rough" auto transmission shifting up and down
problems

I have not experienced this. Definitely get the dealer to check this out for you. Good luck

j25da

I BOUGHT THIS CAR ABOUT THREE MONTHS AGO, AND RIGHT NOW IT HAS 120,000 MILES IS A 2003 HONDA ACCORD EX AND THE TRANSMITION IS SLIPPING, NOW CAN ANYONE RECOMMEND WHERE TO TAKE IT IF SO WHAT WOULD BE THE MOST COMMON PROBLEM THE TRANSMITION, I KNOW I HAVE NO WARRANTY, SO WHAT WILL IT COST

j25da

WHAT CAN I EXPECT FOR WHAT I HAVE READ SO FAR ALL THESE CARS HAVE TRANSMITION PROBLEMS

elroy5

No, they do not all have transmission problems. The fluid was probably never changed, or the car was abused, or both. I have an 03 V6 with 40k miles and the trans is working perfectly.

ray_h1

)) "WHAT CAN I EXPECT FOR WHAT I HAVE READ SO FAR ALL THESE CARS HAVE TRANSMITION [sic] PROBLEMS" ((

"Campaign Number: 04V176000 Date: 2004-Apr-15


Component: Power Train: Automatic Transmission

Defect Summary: ON SOME MINI VANS, SPORT UTILITY AND PASSENGER VEHICLES, CERTAIN OPERATING CONDITIONS CAN RESULT IN HEAT BUILD-UP BETWEEN THE COUNTERSHAFT AND SECONDARY SHAFT SECOND GEARS IN THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, EVENTUALLY LEADING TO GEAR TOOTH CHIPPING OR GEAR BREAKAGE.

Consequence Summary: GEAR FAILURE COULD RESULT IN TRANSMISSION LOCKUP, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.

Corrective Summary: ON VEHICLES WITH 15,000 MILES OR LESS, THE DEALER WILL UPDATE THE TRANSMISSION WITH A SIMPLE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE TO INCREASE LUBRICATION TO THE SECOND GEAR. ON VEHICLES WITH MORE THAN 15,000 MILES, THE DEALER WILL INSPECT THE TRANSMISSION TO IDENTIFY GEARS THAT HAVE ALREADY EXPERIENCED DISCOLORATION DUE TO OVERHEATING. IF DISCOLORATION EXISTS, THE TRANSMISSION WILL BE REPLACED IF DISCOLORATION IS NOT PRESENT, THE DEALER WILL PERFORM THE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON APRIL 21, 2004, FOR PILOT, ODYSSEY, AND MDX OWNERS. OWNERS OF THE ACCORD VEHICLES WILL START RECEIVING LETTERS ON JUNE 28, 2004, AND ON JUNE 29, 2004, FOR OWNERS OF THE TL AND CL VEHICLES. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238."

bioman

You purchased a car with 120K miles on the odometer. Did you check it out carefully or have it checked out by a competent mechanic? Just looking at the transmission fluid BEFORE you purchased the vehicle might have given you some significant evidence if the fluid were discolored and full of particles. Did you check the inside of the oil filler cap on the intake manifold cover for a residue of caked up material? This is another sure sign of an abused vehicle. The current slipping of your car’s transmission might not be a symptom of the problem addressed in the recall of 2004. It might just be a sign of other worn parts that have been in an abused transmission. There are situations where even if all of the aforementioned precautions are taken that a problem can be covered up or missed when a vehicle is being checked. Unfortunately, you now have to deal with the problem. If you elect to get the transmission replaced, make sure that you replace the current transmission with a remanufactured transmission NOT a rebuilt transmission. This will cost a bit more, but it will give you a much better replacement. Caveat emptor.

blackexv6

My '03 Accord's transmission failed at 45k miles (out of warranty 3yr/36k). I bought the car brand new & drove it with care - serviced by Honda. The transmission passed the second gear inspection & the fluid jet kit recall was performed before 15k.

Honda V6 transmissions have very high failure rates in the years '99-'01 & high rates in '02 & '03. The 4cyl transmissions last +200k if maintained properly. You bought a Honda and expect the car to last more than 120k miles without a major ($4000) repair.

Yes, your car may have been driven a little rough. However, I bought a '93 Ford Tempo with 80k from a rental agency. I sold the car to a friend with 150k on it & he drove it into the ground with 250k - original transmission.

I would call Honda Cutomer Care and plead your case. Tell them you are aware of the high failure rates with transmissions in your model & year. Remind them of the second gear inspection & recall campaign. As a final negotiation, offer to pay for the parts if Honda comps the labor.

Good luck & let us know how you make out.

thegraduate

However, I bought a '93 Ford Tempo with 80k from a rental agency. I sold the car to a friend with 150k on it & he drove it into the ground with 250k - original transmission.

Keep in mind, however, that a rental agency will keep a car properly serviced and maintained. A Honda engine can stand lots of revving and the like, but it needs maintenance like everything else. I'm not trying to make excuses for Honda, because I don't know exactly what happened, but if in fact the transmission wasn't serivced over that 120k miles, it's no surprise that the tranny failed at 120k.

blackexv6

Agree. The Tempo was serviced routinely but probably took a beating in the rpm's.

I guess without service records on the Honda the case may be tougher to win. My recommendation is still try and get Honda to defray some of the costs. $4000 is major bucks for a 4 year old car even with 120k.

thegraduate

I guess without service records on the Honda the case may be tougher to win. My recommendation is still try and get Honda to defray some of the costs. $4000 is major bucks for a 4 year old car even with 120k.

I agree with that. Some people only pay labor, while Honda supplies the parts; that would probably be a fair compromise.

exshoman

I have to say that this is one of the few things about the accord that irritates me. The situation that is common to me is as I approach the car with groceries or bags to put in the trunk, I will unlock the trunk and doors and put the keys in my pocket. By the time I finish loading the trunk, the doors have locked again.

I hate "nanny" features. If I'm afraid of unlocking doors for too long due to being in a crime area, then I won't unlock them until needed. And I'm not so feeble that I hit the unlock doors when I intended to lock them.

The other "nanny" locking feature I hate is the one that doesn't allow you to lock the doors if a door is open. Every single day when I get to work, I get out of the car, open the rear passenger door, and reach in to retrieve my laptop and/or something else from the back seat. I'd like to lock the car aftern opening the rear door, then put the keys in my pocket before retreiving the stuff from the back. But Honda won't allow me to do that. I've got to either hold onto the keys, or fish them out of my pocket after closing the door, often with both arms full of stuff. Irritating. And yes, I understand it protects those "challenged" folks that might accidentally lock their keys in the car.

thegraduate

The situation that is common to me is as I approach the car with groceries or bags to put in the trunk, I will unlock the trunk and doors and put the keys in my pocket. By the time I finish loading the trunk, the doors have locked again.

Why would you unlock the doors before loading the trunk, anyway?

I understand what you mean about not being able to lock it with a door open (you CAN lock it w/driver door open, but no others), been there done that. You make good sense, but I'd bet for everyone who finds it a hassle, there is probably someone who didn't lock their keys in the car because of the same feature.

jaxs1

These are all strange complaints like people who complain the remote doesn't as far away from the car as they would prefer. What benefit is there to unlocking the car from 100 yards away?
Same thing with unlocking the car door, putting the keys in your pocket, then loading groceries and then finally going to the door to open it.
You are going to have to take the keys out of your pocket anyway to start the car, so it is no big extra hassle to unlock the door later.

chucko3

Why would you unlock the doors and not open any of them?

huang99

How easy it is to lift up the top of air filter box with all the connections? In particular, does one need to disconnect the big hose/tube that connects clean air to engine in order to replace air filter?

Thanks.

user777

in an 03 ody, and i can't imagine there being more connections on your vehicle, it's merely necessary to lift the top straight up about 5 inches to get the filter out. i do not believe they'd design your air intact to force removing the big hose.

in otherwords, try to lift the top a few inches, mostly the inlet side so you can grab the filter with your hand. try then to free the filter from the box. their should be enough room to do so, but you might have to wiggle the top and the filter some.

elroy5

It may be easier, if you remove the hose from the box. I know I can get it up without removing the hose (V6 engine), but it's not easy to get the cover around the fender, and up.

thegraduate

There is a lady on the "meet the members" thread that says her dealer told her changing to a different set of tires would void the warranty. This cannot be true, can it?

Here is the link, I'd appreciate a response to her statement, feel free to put it on that thread:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ef0053c/293

jaxs1

I suppose changing to the wrong size and spec tires and wheels could void certain parts of the warranty due to damage and excess wear that may be caused.

elroy5

With the large heavy wheels being installed on cars these days I could see where a much larger diameter and heavier wheel and tire package could put more stress on components such as transmission and suspension. Especially if the suspension is lowered. I would consider this before making a decision about wheels and tires.

exshoman

Last comment from me on this, as this is a relatively minor issue. All I have to say is...I unlocked the car, I want the car unlocked darnit. I don't want a car to second guess me and say "well, my owner hasn't opened the car in 30 seconds, I'm going to lock it".

If Honda really wants to have this as a "feature", then they ought to provide a way to disable it. On my Chrysler, the locks automatically lock when the car reaches 15 mph. I can disable that feature if I want. On that note, I was also surprised that Honda doesn't do some sort of autolock (either reaching a certain speed or putting the car in drive).

And one last locking irritation - I sense a theme here , if I'm in the car, and the doors are locked (which happens a lot, as the lock sticks up and is at a postion where I like to lay my arm with the window open), it doesn't unlock when I pull the door handle (like every car I've owned since the 80's).

elroy5

Honda is a different kind of company. They do things their own way. They never go along with the crowd.

For every person who doesn't like the way a certain feature works, there is another person who thinks "why didn't the other guys think of doing it this way". One guy's pleasure, is the other guy's pain. It's funny how I have no problem with how the locks work on my car.

elroy5

as the lock sticks up and is at a postion where I like to lay my arm with the window open

You should not have your arm on the door, or anything between you and the door. The door is positioned far from the seat to make room for the airbags (side and curtain) to deploy. I know life's a beach.

exshoman

Guess I must be a risk-taker. Nice fall day, glorious sunshine, good tunes on the radio, sunroof open...my arm is going to be on that door with one hand on the steering wheel - airbag or no airbag.

Then again, I ride a Harley, so I sometimes I like to live on the dangerous side :shades:

ray_h1

)) "All I have to say is...I unlocked the car, I want the car unlocked darnit. I don't want a car to second guess me and say "well, my owner hasn't opened the car in 30 seconds, I'm going to lock it". ((

My nearly four year old Hyundai Sonata does exactly the same 30 second re-lock thing. Dunno who copied whom. It only took me three years to learn what the Sam Hill was goin' on. I suppose one person's "operational aggravation" is another person's "security feature".

ray_h1

)) "...I ride a Harley..." ((

Poor Mr. Davidson - he don't get no respect...

exshoman

Second billing stinks. Just ask Mr. Benz and Mr. Royce.

iamqzl

When it's idle, for example, waiting for green light, I feel the car's engine noise level follows a certain pattern. THe noise level goes up (~5 secs) a little, then goes down. My Toyota Corolla did the same. Has any one have this problem? or Is it normal? Should I have it checked?

Thanks,

thegraduate

Is the A/C running when this happens?

iamqzl

No. Also a little bit of viberation.

iamqzl

When it's idle (~550RPM), for example, waiting for green light (in D position), I feel the car's engine noise/viberation level follows a certain pattern. The noise/viberation level goes up a little about 5-10 secs, then goes down for 25-30 secs. This doesn't happen when it is in park (P) position. By the way AC is off.

My Toyota Corolla did the same.

Has any one have this problem? or Is it normal? Should I have it checked?

Thanks,

bioman

There are many reasons, both normal and abnormal, why the engine idle might be fluctuating. Obviously the issue has caught your attention. The best thing for you to do is have the car checked out by a dealer you trust. Provide the service tech with as much detail as you can and see what the service tech finds.

ray_h1

A 550 RPM idle speed in "Drive" seems low. Every car I've owned or driven within the last decade seem to run an idle speed in the range of 700 RPM, give or take. The engine management computers on modern cars are supposed to maintain idle speed within 50 RPM of the nominally designated speed whether or not the transmission is in gear, A/C is engaged, the car is executing a low speed turn with the wheels turned hard in either direction (maximum power steering pump load on the engine) or any combination of the above. (In other words, bioman is right - something's out of whack and requires proper professional attention.)

iamqzl

I will have the car checked, and will post the findings.

Thank you for you responses.

longwheelbase4

I just joined this site so I could add my experience with the headlights dimming problem. I have an 04 Accord EX V6 with 33,000 miles on it and the problem first showed up about 6 weeks ago. After taking it in to the dealer and having them tell me that "there were no trouble codes set and the Honda engineers noted that dimming and brightening was 'normal' for this car & mileage" I did two things. One was hook up my voltmeter to an accessory plug in the console so I could observe what was going on even during daylight hours (you see the Service Dept. doesn't have anyone there but a couple of Service Writers before daylight and you cannot see headlights dimming after daylight) and the second was to do some "research" and I came across this thread - BINGO!
So last Friday I took the car back in again with my voltmeter hooked up and stuck with velcro to the dash below the radio) and a copy of the 05-034 Service Bulletin. This time, I took the Service Writer for a ride (after daylight of course) to demonstrate the voltage swings between ~12.4v and 14.2v - which he noted was not normal. I left the car and drove a loaner while they checked it out. That afternoon I got a call and they said that they had uploaded all data from their datalink from my car to Honda's corporate engineers and they saw no trouble codes and everything with the alternator and generator was within factory specs (apparently including passing the "test" that they performed per page 2 of the 05-034 service bulletin) and therefore they would not recommend replacing any parts.

However, the Service Manager noted that his Service Writer had noted what he considered abnormal voltages during our drive, so they wanted me to pick up my car and bring it back the following Monday so he (the Manager) could drive it home that night and observe the headlights in action first hand. I agreed and Monday morning I took it back in and gave them this typed note explaining in detail how to reproduce the problem:
---------------------------------------------
Headlight Dimming Problem

This problem occurs at any speed between approximately 40 and 62 mph – as long as the transmission is in 5th gear. It is most easily observed between 50 and 60 mph on a relatively level stretch of road by gently “pulsing” the throttle. Push the gas down slightly and the headlights will dim – let off slightly on the gas and the headlights will brighten up.

It does not matter what else is running – headlights only or full AC plus the rear window defroster and windshield wipers – the lights will still dim and brighten under these engine and transmission load/unload cycles. The things that I have observed that will cause it to cease are:
1) When under hood temperatures rise after the car sits for a while after being driven
2) At speeds above 61-62 mph (approx. 1900 rpm in 5th gear)
3) At speeds below 36-38 mph (transmission is typically not in 5th gear at these speeds)
4) The problem cannot be reproduced with the car sitting still and varying engine speed – even with it in gear and foot on the brake

I have driven this car to work at 5:45 every morning (which is in the dark with headlights on for about 11 months of the year) for over 2-1/2 years and this problem only showed up about 6-8 weeks ago.

---------------------------------------------------
He drove the car home and back the next day, saw the problem for himself and after discussing it further with the Honda Engineers, they recommended "disconnecting" the ELD. They did and that fixed the problem for me. Now the voltage "swing" from high to low is 14.02 to 14.21v and I cannot see any dimming of the headlights anymore. Theoretically this may give me a slight mileage decrease (that's why Honda installed this ELD) but I am sure it will be miniscule if at all.
Hope this info may prove useful to someone else because this problem was driving me batty and Honda was saying "it's normal."

radi

My 2006 V-6 Accord was rear-ended at about 25-35 mph. The body shop gave me an estimate for bumper replacement, but my concern is what other mechanical or structural damage should I have them look for? The shop said my muffler brackets were bent, but I am concerned about any long-term damage that might go unnoticed. Any suggestions ?

thanks

user777

ELD? is this some device to turn on your lights if you are in a tunnel or something? please explain.

ray_h1

ELD: Entirely Lacking Description?

thegraduate

ELD: Effervescent Liquid Drink?

longwheelbase4

If you'll track this thread back, you can find a link to the referenced Service Bulletin that explains what the ELD is. In the early 90's Honda started inserting an Electrical Load Detector (ELD) into some of their cars whose function is to sense electrical load and "disconnect" (electrically that is) the alternator in times of low electrical load. This is supposed to give a little boost in gas mileage because of less load on the engine. The engineeer in me says this is a miniscule benefit at best, so I'm not at all worried about their disconnecting it in lieu of replacing it. It's located in the underhood fuse box. This little bugger is the cause of the problem and the subject of the service bulletin.
My bad for not spelling it out.

ajacinto

I'm at my wits end as my local HONDA dealer is unable to answer assist. I've (and they) have checked the manual to no avail. Maybe someone else can help....
I'm trying to setup my doors to lock/unlock automatically either when I put my gear shift in park to take it out of park. My dealer is telling my that my model does not include this particular feature - I find that very hard to believe! Can anyone help please? Thx! Alicia

bioman

You may find it hard to believe, but it is true!! You have to push the door lock button on the arm rest to lock-unlock the doors.

thegraduate

Uh, no, there are no automatic door locks on the Accord. Not sure why that is too hard to believe... I don't believe any Honda has this feature (let me guess, you came from American cars?)?

jaxs1

You should be able to get automatic locks aftermarket. They come with some alarm systems, but I'm sure you could get just the automatic locks.