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Comments
1. Start the car
2. Change the tranny to "R" and the hand brake is still on
3. Change the tranny back to "P".
4. Stop the engine or not
5. Change the tranny to "R" and the noise and vibration is coming at the same time.
The coupe was wonderful to drive except I don't fit in the bolstered seats too well.
However all three sedans had very noticable vibrations in the steering wheel and in the cabin. It was most noticeable about 65 MPH. Is this bacause they sat for 20-30 days while the coupe had only been there 5 days? Would this go away with time and is it normal? It lessened a little bit during the drive but was still there at the end. The dealer said they would do an alignment/balance during pre-delivery if necessary, but I don't want to buy a new car that vibrates like that.
I have driven two other makes that had been on the lot and noticed it on those cars as well.
Is this something to be concerned about when buying a new car or is it just a phase?
By vibration, could you be more specific? Did the steering wheel vibrate, or was it the whole car? Was it barely noticeable, or shaking the rear-view mirror it was so bad?
Did you ever drive it on a smooth road? Did ti vibrate then too?
Not trying to be difficult, but the more info we have, the better idea we might have of knowing about a problem or not.
While the road was not particularly smooth, the difference between a coupe and a sedan was noticeable on the same road, mostly because the virbration was exactly regular. There was much less vibration in my rental (Dodge Caliper) when I left the dealership for work in my rental along the same stretch of highway.
Maybe it was all in my imagination, but I don't think so.
I've noticed that the thud is more pronounced when turning and moving at a slow speed (e.g. pulling into a parking space). It was so loud today when I was parking that I thought I hit something.
I must say that the service department here is subpar. I didn't even know where to go to give them my keys. There was no service counter or anything! For the past 4 years I have been going to Rick Justice(phenomenal service dept) eventhough I moved an hour away 3 years ago! After I bought a new car 2 weeks ago I thought it was pointless to drive an hour out of my way just to have it serviced. Looks like I will be making that hour drive for all needed service from now on.
Mrbill
Anyone have any success on this situation? Thanks.
Jim
I don't know if some tires are more susceptible to flat spots or not, or if it takes longer for them to disappear on some tires more then others. All I can say is with my experience, the flat spots do go away.
Mrbill
The mystery of the over inflated tires in new cars is finally solved LOL
Mrbill
(Note to roundandround - insist on the delaership re-balancing all four tires as a condition of purchase. It is possible one or more tires, though new, are defective, too.)
On a different note, how do you guys care for your leather seats? I wear jeans everyday and my driver's seat bottom now has a blue hue. So it looks like I am going to need a product that can be used fairly often. Any ideas?
otherwise, maybe another dealership.
actually - this is something if it were happening to me to consult the collision repair department at the dealership since they are likely to be more in-tune with noises like this and sources of creaks and rattles.
If you've a mind to, you can pay over $20.00 for less than 5 oz. of boutique liquid leather care products - and they're undoubtedly good. But, bang for buck, I've always been pleased with the results of saddle soap since I was advised of its cleaning and protective qualities by some motorcycle buffs who use it for their leather riding attire. It's available under various brand names and usually comes in a tin similar to that of shoe polish. (Liquid versions are also available.) In use it requires a wet cloth to work a lather up from the open can that's worked into the leather followed by a buff down with a clean dry cloth. Brush or vacuum up loose grime first though to prevent it scoring the surface of the leather. (If you work up a sweat, you're working way too hard!) The ingredients are basic common sense leather cleaning and preservative chemistry: a small amount of gentle, fine soap to lift worked-in dirt and surface staining (Deep stains will be a problem for any leather cleaning product. Never use chlorine bleach on leather.), lanolin and glycerin as depth emollients, and a very small amount of wax to seal the pores of the hides to contain the emollients between sessions and retard future depth staining. Nominally a paste, it's a very soft paste. Twice a year is generally all that's necessary, though there's nothing in the stuff that would be damaging to fine leather if you feel compelled to use it more often. If you want a shiny lustre to your leather, go somewhere else because saddle soap ain't gonna do it - no silicones, no synthetic polymers. But saddle soap does leave leather supple and fights cracking as well or better than any other leather care product if used regularly. It's available online but the traditional brick and motar sources are tack shops (sadleries) and feed stores - basically anywhere equine enthusiasts and ranchers would go for saddles or livestock supplies. (They'll happily take money from city slickers who wouldn't know a stirrup from a horse pucky, too...) A $5.00 tin of saddle soap will probably last several years. I just recently scored an extra tin of Kiwi saddle soap on closeout for $1.69 for 3 oz. (shoe polish size tin), but usually it'll be priced $3.00-$5.00 depending on the amount in the tin and what the manufacturer thinks he can get away with. My 3 1/2 week shy of four year old Sonata's leather upholstery is still just as pristine as the day I drove the car off the lot, but much more supple. (When new, that leather felt more like stiff paper - they must grow some tough cows in Korea. Hate to think what the steaks were like...)
Mrbill
03EXV6.
If you can find a rubber insulator, cut it into a string and
stuff it into the window run channel. The string runs from
the side mirror to the upper corner of the window.
The thickness of the string is about 3/16 inch. The width is big enough to fit into the channel.
You won't hear the window creaking noise again. And it may even make the interior quieter.
I think the window run channel is a bit wide for the window
glass. When the car runs over a rough road, the glass vibrates in the channel and causes the noise.
Many of the previous generation Accords had very tight run channels, and as a result window regulator and motor problems. I for one like that the channels are loose now. Of course I may feel different if my windows start rattling.
Second test drive vibration was reduced.
Also had nitrogen (?) put in the tires over normal air.
Turns out it was mostly the interstate's fault. Pretty smooth on my normal route to work. Now to find a comfortable driving position...
Please please tell us what exactly is the "rubber insulation" you're using, and where we can get it from.
Much much appreciated.
You can use any soft foam so that when the window goes up,
the glass pushes into the foam and stays firm. The result
is when the car runs over a rough road, there is no
vibration and no noise.
The water pipe foam insulator might do the job.
P.S. Do this fix if the noise happens only when the
window is all the way up.
May I ask what your mileage is?
I have been happy with my Accord for 3 1/2 years. I have averaged 30 mpg. I was disappointed my Michelins wore thin so early and needed replacing before Winter. I went with their Pilot Exaltas for better traction, but my mileage appears to have suffered a little or it might be winter gasoline. I, too, have noticed a vibration in my passenger door between the speaker and the door handle. I appreciate the information in silencing this nusiance.
I anxiously await the 2008 Accord for the 2007 Camry is a pretty impressive car, having just won Motor Trend's "Car of the Year." How will Honda deal with this challenging foe?
Happy Holidays. Enjoy the turkey, ham, oysters, and sweet potatoe pie.
The only other problem experienced with the Coupe was the driver side seat rails. The seat would slip forward when braking and stopping. HOA replaced the rails and the seat does not slip at all.
Hope this helps.
....hopefully 5, it's the winter gasolina......
...saving my Naval Reserve $$$ for those very same A/S tires
...did you buy them because of Tire Rack's great reviews?
..let me encourage you to post additional info on these....
..ez..
So I guess my question is, should I take this into my dealer and ask them to replace the filter? Will they say no because I did not buy the filter from them? How much do you think they'll charge?
Or should I just go ahead and try replacing it on my own?
Good luck,
Mrbill