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Must be nice! I am lucky to get half that in my EXV6. Maybe someday I will hit 26mpg(that's my goal).
@all
I went home for the holiday and had the car checked out. Turns out the clunk has something to do with the rack and pinion. I was in a hurry so I didn't ask what the EXACT problem was. As long as I didn't get "we couldn't find a problem" I was happy.
This weeks problem is a metallic rattle. Everytime I drive down a rough road I hear this metallic rattle, like someone dropped a crowbar. I didn't pay much attention the first few times I heard it because I didn't realize it was my car. I took the tools out of the trunk and wrapped them in a terry towel. I dropped them in my driveway a few times to make sure I couldn't hear anything. I still am hearing the noise, so it's not the tools.
Anyone experience similar problems?
..but hang in there for better mileage. My AV6 6M coupe at 23k gets 25 - 29 in mixed driving. Specifically, last tank covering 180 miles works out to 130 freeway 50 urban (29.3).
..ez...(still saving for those Exalto A/S Michelins)
The car was fixed within a couple of hours. Ask a technician to look at that part of the rear suspension (the upper parts) and check it out. The dealer even did the repair for free! (55,000 miles on the car).
i guess when they weld the strut towers, sometimes there is some surface irregularities that during assembly can artificially leave a gap between the strut tower and strut. driving a small distance compresses the burrs and then there is slop or play in the top of the assembly for rattle.
anyway, they disconnected the strut from the tower, deburred the weld spots, applied some special grease and re-assembled. no noise.
later on, i found a TSB i think for the Pilot or perhaps it was the MDX when doing a google, i cannot remember or seem to locate it now, that basically spelled out what was going on and the procedure...
it could be a common thing.
I'm new to the forum, and wanted to ask a question about what sounds like a valve rattling noise that I'm hearing. I own a 2005 Honda Accord V6 LX SE AT. Does anyone else have a 2005 with a similar problem?
I hear it on my Accord when the engine is cold between 2000 and 3000 RPM. Once the engine warms up, after about 10 minutes, the rattling goes away and everything is nice and quite. Currently I have slightly less than 19,000 miles on the car, and I bagan noticing the noise around 15,000 miles.
The main reason I'm asking the question is I've taken the car to 3 different dealers. One of them wouldn't admit to anything or that they even heard the noise. The second one said that Honda is using less aluminum in the I Block than previous models and offered to give me special consideration regarding the issue if anything were to happen to the engine beyond the warranty. The third dealer said the noise is inherent in the model and it's realated to the shape of the pistons so there isn't much they can do.
I've contacted Honda Customer relations regarding the issue, but they weren't very helpful.
Has anyone been to the dealer about this, and if so what did they tell you? I would greatly appricieate any help anyone can give.
Thanks for you time!
Thanks for any input!
Replying to: chucko3 (Nov 29, 2006 5:44 pm)
I have a front passenger window noise in my accord only when the window is up. Can you tell me how you fixed it?
I had a wind noise / slight water leak with my rear drivers door. Honda aligned the door and both problems have gone away. Hope that helps
My dad's 2005 Accord (that he just traded in) and my 2006 Accord operate exactly as you say. This is not defective, don't fear!
It operates as you say, the door unlatches, but doesn't "open." You must pull the door open and insert your electrical device in the hole, and the door will rest on the device. It is spring-hinged to close, but you must push it to latch/unlatch it.
My 2003 Accord EX (4-cyl, AT) just passed 100k. The only money I have spent on it past the factory 36k warranty other than fluid/filter changes was for brakes, tires, and a wheel (after jumping a curb); none of this would have been covered under an extended warranty.
If the car is taken care of, it should last *well* past 100k miles. My previous car was a 1989 Accord that still ran well at 217k when I traded it for the 2003.
-FS
On Monday the warranty company stated that they would have to have an outside claim representative shown the failed part(s). It would be the owner's financial responsibility to have the engine dismantled and the parts left on the shop floor until the claim representative scheduled a visit. They would pay for reassembly if they agreed to the claim. This did not please the garage owner.
When the claim represenative finally arrived, he agreed to have the company pay a very small amount towards the total cost of getting the vehicle back on the road. After many phone call and letters, the small print provided no relief.
The company was Penn Warranty. AFTERMAKET WARRANTY? NEVER AGAIN!
By rattling I'm thinking it's either the motor "pinging" or a mechanical noise from the engine area.
My car has been pinging occasionally since new, something I attribute to inconsistent gas quality. The Accord's engine computer is supposed to address this, but it's likely that octane isn't really at 87 minimum all the time. I haven't used Premium because the pinging hasn't been consistent or intense (you can say I know what engine-damaging pinging is).
As for mechanical rattling (or pinging for that matter), I'm not sure if block metallurgy or piston-head contour has a role. It's probably more of a minor heat-reacting part like an exhaust manifold heat shield that's the cause. Expanding when hot, a part like this will stop rattling.
I'd try Premium Gas and if that doesn't work, have the dealer look at heat-sensitive parts in the engine compartment, to pin the source.
Anybody else experienced this? I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow morning...
if that's so (and you can't view the other information) that would possibly be a defective design.
i would be surprised that Honda wouldn't have thought that out... does your manual explain how to restore the display of the other information? it's got to be possible.
i mean you don't want to mask the fact that the unit is throwing a CEL, but you need access to the other status information.
if it can't be done, or if it can but you'd have to stand on your head and click your shoes together, i'd write Honda Engineering about that.
that seems like a fundamental human factors error to me. you shouldn't dismiss the importance of a CEL, but you shouldn't be locked out of seeing the other status information.
I had a heck of a time writing down my odo info after I re-fueled. I finally managed to see it by turning the key to "On" but not starting the engine.
so it seems in the more up-to-date models with the additional display, it can actually warn you before tossing a CEL (and storing a code), that the cap isn't on tight and it isn't passing it's vacuum self-tests.
thanks for the clarification. so yeah, you must be able to push the odometer reset stem or other to clear these messages as another person described. this would make sense.
Thank you very much for your reply. It's nice to know I'm not the only one experiencing this. At one point the noise was consistent and very annoying. I then began using the concentrated Chevron Techron Cleaner you can find in stores. First I added the cleaner and filled the tank with 93 octane, and ran the car a little harder than usual per the dealers recommendation. This seemed to help. For the next tank I added more Techron cleaner and 89 octane. The persistent spark pinging was reduced drastically. Like you I only heard it sporadically thereafter, but on a few occasions when accelerating to merge with traffic on the highway I noticed it was very loud and occurred throughout the entire RPM range, so I decided to use the Techron cleaner in a third tank. This time I used 87 octane. After that I never really noticed any significant spark pinging yet I could still hear it on occasion using 87 octane, very little with 89 octane, and virtually not at all using 93 octane.
The rattling sound when cold actually started a little later. It does sort of sound like persistent spark ping, but it also sounds as if the valves are out of adjustment. I had a 2000 Honda Civic before this, and I would notice on cold mornings that I could hear the valves rattle just a little bit. It wasn’t significant and the car ran great up to and including the day I traded it for the new Accord. I never had any spark ping with the civic, and when I traded it for the Accord it had over 60,000 miles.
One interesting thing is my Accord use to back fire. It was usually at higher rpm and when the car shifted. It wasn’t terribly loud, but it was noticeable. I haven’t heard it recently, but I began using name brand gasoline for example Exxon, Shell, BP. The dealer has checked the car out many times, and I was never able to reproduce the problem when the service manager was riding in the car with me. They checked the ECM, but it reported no error codes.
As for the rattling while cold I’ve gone through one complete tank of 93, and I’m currently on the second. I have noticed that the rattling noise has greatly reduced. I also added another tank of cleaner so maybe my efforts to reduce the noise are paying off.
I think I must have got a really bad tank or several bad tanks of gas at one point that caused all these problems, and I think I have an idea where it came from. I intend to stick with the name brands from now on.
As far as your pinging is concerned Honda has a technical service bulletin regarding the issue related to pinging or whining occurring between 1500 and 2500 rpm. I printed out the full bulletin. It requires the dealer to upgrade your ECM and perform some learning procedures using special equipment. It doesn’t look like it would take long at all and it’s for 2003 through 2004 model year Accords. Even though your car is out of warranty the bulletin states that the dealer can extend good will credit so that the service would be covered. If you like I can post a link so that you can read it yourself. I tried showing this to the dealer when I went, but they just kind of brushed it off since it probably doesn’t apply to my car anyway.
Thanks again for your reply. It is greatly appreciated.
To expand on your excellent points, with 44 years driving experience, I've attained a graduate degree in UGTs ("ultimate gasoline truths") from the University of Hard Knockings:
1> no-name mom-'n-pop (perchance ma & pa's given names are "Bonnie" and "Clyde"?...) convenience store gasoline is just about as likely to ping heavily as not - there's no telling what "hamburger helper" concoction they may be adding as an extender or where the gas itself is coming from - especially within 100-200 miles of the Mexican border. (Some Pemex gasoline is fully leaded and will poison the catalytic converter with just a couple tankfuls.)
2> buy gasoline from a favorite brand station that's busy 24/7 - because their high turnover rate virtually assures the product won't get the opportunity to go "stale" sitting around in the station's underground tanks.
Hope this helps.
As for the windows, they replaced the rubber tracks/channels for each side and added a spacer to make the window a tighter fit. That did the trick. I was really worried that they were going to spray some silicon and give it back to me like some have posted here. So far, I'm impressed with this dealer's service.
My Honda dealership tried to remedy the problem with padded tape; which hasn't helped.
My daughter has a 2004 Accord, which apparently was having the same problem. Her Work Order describes the solution as being "Verified Spring Loose....Re-Attach to Correct".
My question is, does the 2003 and 2004 Honda Accords have the same glove box assembly? And if so, where is this spring and where does it attach to?