I have been the owner of large GM sedans for the past 30 years. It is time for a new car and I am giving serious thought to v6 Accord.
Took one for a test drive yesterday and thought the car was solid and a real value for the money.
However the ride was poor. It felt as though we were riding over a corrugated highway even though we were on a very smooth road. You could definetly feel a rumble or vibration at speeds over 30 mph. On a scale of 1 - 10, 10 being the worst I thought it was a 4.
Does anyone out there know if this is built into the suspension or is it possible that the tires are causing this?
If you've been driving big GM cars, and like how they ride/drive, the Accord is not for you. The Honda is much more sporty in the handling department, at the expense of a firmer ride. The steering in the Accord is MUCH sharper than any GM or Toyota vehicle I've ever driven, and the ride motions are more controlled (you feel a bump, but it doesn't continue floating/bobbing).
If you like the idea of Japanese engineering/fuel economy but don't like the rougher ride, give a look to the Toyota Camry LE or XLE; they ride softer (i.e. more Buick-like) and don't handle as well as the Honda.
Yes, the Accord does have a little firmer ride/more feedback than a GM or Camry (part of the sporty nature), but some people actually prefer that!
Also, be careful about judging based on 1 test drive. If the car was not fully prepped, the tires may be way overinflated (they do that to keep them from flat spotting when they sit on the lot). If the tires were adjusted, and it sat for a while, they could also be underinflated.
In any case, I agree that you sound like a perfect candidate for the Camry LE.
My 2004 Accord EX-L sedan (top of the line 4 cylinder) was hard-riding when new because the tires were overinflated--a common occurrence. Also, tires are stiff as are other parts--Hondas are VERY tight cars.
After 2000 or 3000 miles the ride improved and, while not Camry mushy, it's ideal for me now.
If you want a soft-rider, the Accord is not for you. But be aware that with tires at factory spec pressures and a couple of thousand miles of break-in, the ride won't be harsh ..........Richard
My '03 Accord EXV6 had a poor ride i.e. choppy, rumble, felt every road imperfection & lot of road noise. I had a different experience than some of the other people in this forum. IMO tire inflation had little impact on the ride quality - I tried different pressures w/no luck. My car seemed to ride worse over time & the rear struts failed early also.
I will admit the 4cyl LX model rode much better than the EX-V6, possibly because of the larger sidewall tires, different suspension tuning, or weight diffrence of the engine. The V6 models were a little nose heavy compared to the 4 banger.
I wanted a sporty & firmer ride with a suspension that could take blows from road imperfections. My Accord felt like it was "bottoming out" when I hit cracks in the road. Other cars like the Nissan Altima, Sentra, G35, & new '07 Camry have a good compromise between sporty handling & ability to handle the road shock - seems like they have some rubber isolation between the subframe & chassis.
I agree with stickguy & thegraduate, the Accord is probably not for you. Look at the new Camry...may want to wait until the transmission & hesitation problems are resolved. A lot of people are upset over in the Camry forums...buyer beware.
Does anyone know what button is supposed to be to the right of the VSA switch on the left side of the dash? Far left is the sunroof, then VSA, then a blank.
I see many posts referring to a popping noise from the windshield/dash but can't find where anyone actually had it fixed. I have a 2006 LX V6 sedan, when it is cold I hear a popping noise from the windshield/dash when going over rough roads. It seems to go away when the car heats up, also I didn't notice it when the weather was warmer. Anyone have any information on this noise?
:confuse: In late August, I purchased my new Honda Accord (my third). Unfortunately, this Accord has various rattles and squeaks that I've never had before in a Honda. In fact, I haven't had a car that squeaks like this since my old 1976 FIAT. Before I try to bring my car in, I wanted to check to see if others here believe if these problems are fixable.
First, little bumps in the road that cause a rattle/squeak noise to come from the center console area. It sounds like it is coming from roughly the area of the radio. The bumps themselves can be so small that the Honda's excellent suspension smoothes them away. While I almost don't feel the little bumps, I certainly do hear the annoying squeak/rattle.
Second, when driving at highway speeds, the driver's side front door develops a noise like a snare drum every time I go over an expansion joint or other small bump in the highway. It sounds as if there is a piece of tightly stretched plastic inside the door with something that rattles against it, resulting in a short, rapid drum roll with every expansion joint. Driving on a concrete highway such as I-66 is very, very annoying. The same noise sometimes develops when I am stopped next to a truck or motorcycle at a red light. The rumble of the truck's (or bike's) exhaust causes the snare drum in the door to go into a prolonged drum roll.
What is likely to make both of these problems difficult to fix is that they are intermittent. While not every bump in the road causes the center console to squeak, most do. The snare drum in the driver's door only kicks into gear at highway speeds and when there are expansion joints or a generally rough highway or when I'm stopped next to a vehicle with a rumbling exhaust pipe. Driving out I-395/I-95 does not cause the snare drum to start up, for example, while driving out I-66 puts it into high gear.
These are minor problems and the car basically runs great. The problem is that rattles and squeaks drive me nuts. The smooth, solid feel and sound is one of the reasons why I buy Honda.
My question is: Are these the types of things that the warranty should cover or am I stuck with a 1976 FIAT in Honda clothing? :confuse:
I would take the car in. Many times they will say "all Accords have these rattles". Wrong. I have an 03 V6 sedan, and have none of these rattles (or popping windshield noises) even after 40k miles and over 3 years, so they can be eliminated. Good luck. I know how service managers can be.
If it does it all the time, they should be able to fix everything since they should have dealt with all the possible causes before after nearly 5 years of working with this generation Accord. If it only makes the noises sometimes, then you may waste a lot of time taking it to the dealer for them to tell you they can't fix it because it doesn't make the noises when they drive it.
)) "...the driver's side front door develops a noise like a snare drum every time I go over an expansion joint or other small bump in the highway. It sounds as if there is a piece of tightly stretched plastic inside the door with something that rattles against it, resulting in a short, rapid drum roll with every expansion joint." ((
Your analogy just might be closer to the truth than you realized. There is a taught piece of plastic sheeting glued to the inner metal door frame as a moisture barrier. If a something (maybe an electric window or door lock cable?) were lightly resting from the inside against that plastic sheeting, the movement from a road bump could well thump the plastic to annoyingly resonate in the manner of a drum head. As elroy5 suggested, let the dealer take care of these quibbles for you - that's why you have a warranty.
(My dad's '55 Plymouth had a warranty, too - 3,000 miles or ninety days, whichever came first.)
I have to admit I am disappointed in the number of rattles in my 2006 Accord. Though I really like driving the car I'm surprised at all the rattles in a Honda. I will not take it back to the dealership to try to correct them because I don't want them taking off door panels or Dashboard sections. I'm afraid they may create more rattles in the process. I guess it could be worse.
The dealer would have to find the rattles, until the warranty ran out. After the warranty is over, I would try to find it myself. Most rattles can be found, and eliminated. To find a rattle, it's usually just a matter of removing parts until the rattle stops, then devising a remedy for it. Exterior rattles are harder to find.
My one-month-old SE has had some squeaking noises since day one and I have taken it to two different dealers. Each time they claimed the problem was fixed. But the noise came back either after a few miles (1st time) or after a few days (2nd time). It broke my heart each time when I saw how the tech. guys treat my brand new car. One time they took it out for a test drive and came back with mud around my wheels! Not that I wanted to, but I have decided to live with that noise due to the time and effort I have put in and it has been futile. I just don't have faith that they can fix the problem.
Know nothing "Service Managers" and lazy ruthless techs are only two of the reasons why I always buy a service manual for every car I own. You can do a lot of maintenance and repairs on your own car, with the important information in a service manual.
And stick with the manufacturers' factory service manuals. They're costlier, but they cover your year car. The Haynes and Chilton manuals are better than nothing, but since they cover a range of model years, there can be confusion if you run into apparent discrepencies between your car and what the manual describes. Much of the price of the factory manual can often be recovered by selling it on eBay after you and your pride and joy eventually part company. I just wish Honda would make their periodic TSBs freely available on line as Hyundai does.
Ray is 100% correct. I had the exact same problem in my passenger door (2004 Accord EX V-6 Coupe) and ultimately traced it to several pieces in the door tapping against the plastic and the frame of the door. Some strategically located foam and glue fixed it.
However, I have a different rattle that I've been unable to fix. It's a hard plastic on plastic rattle that comes from the dashboard & sounds like its just under the flat bottom of the dash gauge binnacle. It only happens when I hit a bump and, if I'm pressing down on the bottom of the binnacle it doesn't happen. My mechanic removed the clear binnacle cover on the gauges and looked inside, but could not find anything to tighten or pad. The only other time it seems to stop is when I pull the telescoping steering wheel all the way out to its maximum distance from the dashboard.
Recently my cigarette lighters stopped working. I'm assuming that I blew a fuse but can't find an owners manual. Can anyone tell me where to locate the fuse box for a 2004 Honda Accord? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
I don't think any of these cars have cigarette lighters. The outlets are for accessories (cell phone chargers etc.), and should not be used as lighters. The fuse should be in the under dash fuse box (near hood release). Third fuse from the right, on the bottom row (15A).
When I just started my car, I heard a hissing sound coming from near the power window controls to my left. I also saw the lighting of these buttons (especially the one that adjusts the side mirrors) flickering. My car is an Accord Ex-L 06, months old. Does this seem to be indicating a big problem? Would appreciate to hear from anyone who has any input. Thanks a lot!
You're right, they're not cigarette lighters. It is an outlet that I use for my charger & satellite radio. I'm not even sure why I called them that. Thank you!! I really appreciate your help with this.
You didn't say if the problem was resolved. Was it the fuse? And was the fuse in the area I described? It would be nice to know. Thanks, and Happy Hondaing.
)) "When I just started my car, I heard a hissing sound coming from near the power window controls to my left. I also saw the lighting of these buttons (especially the one that adjusts the side mirrors) flickering." ((
From your description, you may have an electrical short circuit to ground in one of the power window switches or switch lighting circuits. If you can locate the fuse box near the parking brake from your owner's manual, check to see if the applicable fuse(s) have blown. If not, pull it/them on the off chance you might have another visit from Mr. Hissy-fit - this time with the potential for fire. Since your car is a 2006 model, the actual fix will be on Honda's warranty, but you want the car safe enough to operate to get it to the dealer's service department.
Does anyone know when the Maintenence Minder light goes on for a tire rotation reminder? The number "1" is supposed to illuminate to remind you to rotate the tires, which on my "03 Accord was recommended at 7,500 miles. I would have expected the minder to set on or before 7,500 miles, but nothing has happened yet at 7,800 miles. My service manager said that the reminder for the tires (and everything else presumably)got reset when they changed the oil. This makes no sense to me. I rotated the tires anyway at 7,500 miles, so it isn't an issue, but I'm a little skeptical about this system, and if it really works. Has anybody with an '06 or '07 had any issues with this system?
I just had my oil changed at Walmart, but the oilife is still 15% with the light on. I asked the staff to have it reset for me, but he didn't know how to.
Does anyone know how can I set up the oil life back to 100% and the indicator light to off? I read earlier postings, which suggested that I hold down the 'trip button' while igniting the engine and wait until the light is off. however, i did that and no effect at all.
Read your owner's manual buddy. It'll tell you exactly what to do. Page 196
But, since you may not have one (if you bought the car used you may not)
1.) Turn the key to the "On" position, DON'T crank it (that's where you messed up) 2.) Press the "trip" button, and hold the button for ten-seconds with the key in the "on" position, and the light should turn off.
PS: The "on" position is where the dashboard lights come on and the seatbelt chime will activate, but the car doesn't crank.
I'll say it again; PLEASE read your owner's manual, it will help you with all of the details like this one. It'll save you a lot of time and trouble when you have questions like this. It is what it was created for. I'm happy to help, but the manual can likely tell you more than people like me can.
One other thing thegraduate forgot to include is that you need to have the triptik set to odometer (i.e. the display that shows the vehicle's total mileage) and not Trip A, Trip B, or Temperature. Otherwise you will either reset your trip odometer or mess up the temperature reading, which can be adjusted +/- 5 degrees in pretty much the same way.
I'm a 2 time Honda owner who, despite my several posts to this board re: my '04 Accord EX V-6 Coupe, is contemplating buying an '07 Odyssey for my wife. My fist Honda (a '91 Accord EX I-4 Sedan) was the most amazingly reliable car I've ever owned. My '04 is a good car overall, but not quite up to the same level as the '91.
Any of you Accord owners out there also Odyssey owners (or Toyota Sienna owners)? Whattaya think? Am I better off with the Odyssey EX or the Odyssey LX? Should I go Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna? Toyo is more expensive but is offering 0% financing, which means I can buy more car for less money. But my wife and I both liked driving the Odyssey a lot better.
I've surfed the Odyssey board on this site and it scares me. But so do the reports on the Sienna. I'm trying to choose between thrums at 2100 rpm with doors that open/close with a mind of their own, and engines that develope more sludge than Prince William Sound after the Exxon Valdez passed through.
I have on 07 EXV6 and when I put the car in drive and takeoff there is a pronounced thud/click that sounds like it is coming from the left front wheel area. I have noticed that it doesn't occur all the time. For instance when I am in rush hour traffic at a stop light, every time I pull off, I hear the noise. When ever I pull off for the first tie after the car hasn't been running. I don't notice the noise if I am at intersections with stop signs unless I remained stopped for a while. My neighbor had a similar problem with her first MDX a few years back but I remember the noise being even more pronounced.
I have heard that the sound and thud feel when first taking off in drive is the ABS self check. It should only do this the first time you take off, and not after that though. It's the only time I notice it.
Tirerack is a good place to get an idea on which tire would be a good replacement for your own personal taste. They have many reviews for each tire, and a rating scale, which can be very helpful. I am thinking about Bridgestone Touranzas as a replacement for my 03 V6. More research will be done before a final decision is made though. My Michelins have a lot of miles left on them, and that gives me more time for research.
I am a three-time Honda owner. I had a 1999 Civic which we had to unfortunately sell because it is too small with two kids. I also have a 2003 Accord-EX, with 60,000 miles. I am telling you - they don't make them as they used to anymore. My Civic was 6 years/90,000 old. Nothing but oil and filter changes. Not a single malfunction, had to replace the muffler at 5 years, that's all. Can't say the same about the Accord. Not quite a piece of junk, but pretty close. Still much better, I bet, than a Ford or a Chevy, but... Anyway, we had to trade up the poor Civic for the 2006 Odyssey. This one I absolutely love. My wife who is driving it loves it even more. Granted, only 10,000 miles on it, but what a vehicle. We didn't go cheap-o, and we bought a leather, Navigation and DVD for the kids in the back. My neighbor got a regular LX. Day and night!!! Nothing you don't need, a lot of good stuff, helpful stuff. Looking at the whole package, overall the savings are huge. You are paying 5,000 over the LX, but you probably get $10,000 worth of neat improvements. If you have kids, LX-Leather is the one to go with. They need to wipe their noses and to watch TV in the back. NAV is less helpful, for us at least, we rarely go places, but the rear-view camera (a MUST for women) only comes with NAV. All-in-all, a great buy. We also looked at the Sienna (I only consider Toyo or Hondas as worth owning). Much more money and less competetive when it comes to luxury and ergonomics. I am sure it is a tad more reliable, but not by $4,000. I just bought a 7-yr warranty on the Odyssey, and that is my insurance policy against any trouble. And troubles will come, with so much stuff inside, electronics especially: think two DVD-drives, Navidation, climate control, a bunch of remotes for all kinds of entertainment and a lot more. I thing a Honda warranty is a must on such a purchase. Anyway, I hope I helped. E-mail if you have questions or concerms about an Odyssey. I can tell you that I have been lucky with this one. I don't know what the others experienced. There is always a chance one can get a lemon, with any car. Kolbasik
You traded right into a first year model (2003). First year models, of any vehicle, will have more problems than a fourth year model (like your Civic was). Our 2003 Accord had lots of rattles and the infamous radio-display problem, but our 2005 and my 2006 have been pretty close to perfection (and a lot quieter than the 2003, too).
My buddy got a loaded 2006 Sienna to replace a 1991 Previa. He hates the Sienna. The run-flat tires are loud and mileage is under 20MPG with his AWD equipped vehicle. He is very disappointed in his Toyota for those reasons, and does regret the purchase. If he had to do it over again he would forgo the AWD option which would get rid of the run-flats.
The only negative I consistently hear or read about with either vehicle is with the run-flat tires. There are other forums here on Edmunds that address run-flat tires. Myself, I'd lean toward the Odyssey unless AWD is a must have option. Either way, avoid equipping whichever you choose with optional run-flats.
I put a set of Exalto on an accord back in May. By far the best tire that I have ever owned. I noticed an immediate improvement in handling, wet traction, and ride quality. The tires do come at a premium though, but well worth it. I think I paid around $600 for a set of 15" tires (only had one day to shop so had to buy from Sears)
I will be replacing the Energy or whatever is on my car now with Exalto when the time comes. Hope this helps!
I have no idea what happened inside the tranny! Yesterday, I tried to check the tail light that I set to "R" and used manual brake to hold the car. But when I drived it out, the car has a big noice and vibration when I set to "R". This morning it also had similar phenomena that it generated big noise and vibration when I set to "R" then back to "P", I am really scared with this. Do your guys think this is a tranny problem or I just should use manual brake to prevent the car from backing? Many thanks.
Well, the way I solved this problem was by going to get an Acura TL yesterday...the car I really wanted when I got my rattle-trap 2005 Honda last year! I know they're both made by Honda, but I'm hoping Acura quality hasn't slid downhill like Hondas seem to have in recent years.
What was unbelieveable yesterday was that the first Acura TL we test drove had the EXACT SAME rattling noise coming from the steering column in the exact same area (left side somewhere in the vicinity of the turn signal handle). My heart was broken because I'd been told that was the only new 2006 black Acura TL with ebony interior left on the lot! Luckily there turned out to be one more. We didn't hear anything during the test drive on the second one and so far so good. What a driving difference between the Accord and the TL...and only a $5900 price difference between the prices I paid for each.
i don't exactly understand what you are trying to say. but i made a similar observation in my accord 06 lx. when the hand brake was on, i put the auto transmission in 'R', and pressed the gas pedal. there was a significant noise and vibration coming from the rear of the vehicle. i think the noise and vibration was from the rear brake that was trying to prevent the car from going in reverse. i removed the hand brake and tried again and all was fine.
instead of putting in 'R', if i put in 'D' with the hand brake on, i don't get the noise when i press the gas pedal to go forward. i only have the noise when i go in reverse with the hand brake on.
Comments
My wife got rear-ended by a girl on a cell phone. For those of you who drive, and talk on a cell phone at the same time, Please shut up, and drive.
Took one for a test drive yesterday and thought the car was solid and a real value for the money.
However the ride was poor. It felt as though we were riding over a corrugated highway even though we were on a very smooth road. You could definetly feel a rumble or vibration at speeds over 30 mph. On a scale of 1 - 10, 10 being the worst I thought it was a 4.
Does anyone out there know if this is built into the suspension or is it possible that the tires are causing this?
If you like the idea of Japanese engineering/fuel economy but don't like the rougher ride, give a look to the Toyota Camry LE or XLE; they ride softer (i.e. more Buick-like) and don't handle as well as the Honda.
Also, be careful about judging based on 1 test drive. If the car was not fully prepped, the tires may be way overinflated (they do that to keep them from flat spotting when they sit on the lot). If the tires were adjusted, and it sat for a while, they could also be underinflated.
In any case, I agree that you sound like a perfect candidate for the Camry LE.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
After 2000 or 3000 miles the ride improved and, while not Camry mushy, it's ideal for me now.
If you want a soft-rider, the Accord is not for you. But be aware that with tires at factory spec pressures and a couple of thousand miles of break-in, the ride won't be harsh
I will admit the 4cyl LX model rode much better than the EX-V6, possibly because of the larger sidewall tires, different suspension tuning, or weight diffrence of the engine. The V6 models were a little nose heavy compared to the 4 banger.
I wanted a sporty & firmer ride with a suspension that could take blows from road imperfections. My Accord felt like it was "bottoming out" when I hit cracks in the road. Other cars like the Nissan Altima, Sentra, G35, & new '07 Camry have a good compromise between sporty handling & ability to handle the road shock - seems like they have some rubber isolation between the subframe & chassis.
I agree with stickguy & thegraduate, the Accord is probably not for you. Look at the new Camry...may want to wait until the transmission & hesitation problems are resolved. A lot of people are upset over in the Camry forums...buyer beware.
Mrbill
First, little bumps in the road that cause a rattle/squeak noise to come from the center console area. It sounds like it is coming from roughly the area of the radio. The bumps themselves can be so small that the Honda's excellent suspension smoothes them away. While I almost don't feel the little bumps, I certainly do hear the annoying squeak/rattle.
Second, when driving at highway speeds, the driver's side front door develops a noise like a snare drum every time I go over an expansion joint or other small bump in the highway. It sounds as if there is a piece of tightly stretched plastic inside the door with something that rattles against it, resulting in a short, rapid drum roll with every expansion joint. Driving on a concrete highway such as I-66 is very, very annoying. The same noise sometimes develops when I am stopped next to a truck or motorcycle at a red light. The rumble of the truck's (or bike's) exhaust causes the snare drum in the door to go into a prolonged drum roll.
What is likely to make both of these problems difficult to fix is that they are intermittent. While not every bump in the road causes the center console to squeak, most do. The snare drum in the driver's door only kicks into gear at highway speeds and when there are expansion joints or a generally rough highway or when I'm stopped next to a vehicle with a rumbling exhaust pipe. Driving out I-395/I-95 does not cause the snare drum to start up, for example, while driving out I-66 puts it into high gear.
These are minor problems and the car basically runs great. The problem is that rattles and squeaks drive me nuts. The smooth, solid feel and sound is one of the reasons why I buy Honda.
My question is: Are these the types of things that the warranty should cover or am I stuck with a 1976 FIAT in Honda clothing?
:confuse:
If it only makes the noises sometimes, then you may waste a lot of time taking it to the dealer for them to tell you they can't fix it because it doesn't make the noises when they drive it.
Your analogy just might be closer to the truth than you realized. There is a taught piece of plastic sheeting glued to the inner metal door frame as a moisture barrier. If a something (maybe an electric window or door lock cable?) were lightly resting from the inside against that plastic sheeting, the movement from a road bump could well thump the plastic to annoyingly resonate in the manner of a drum head. As elroy5 suggested, let the dealer take care of these quibbles for you - that's why you have a warranty.
(My dad's '55 Plymouth had a warranty, too - 3,000 miles or ninety days, whichever came first.)
I don't need any. Do you?
As for the rattle in the center console, try leaving the compartment door open while you drive. That's how I figured where my rattle was coming from.
My car is 2005 Accord 4 cyc
Thanks,
However, I have a different rattle that I've been unable to fix. It's a hard plastic on plastic rattle that comes from the dashboard & sounds like its just under the flat bottom of the dash gauge binnacle. It only happens when I hit a bump and, if I'm pressing down on the bottom of the binnacle it doesn't happen. My mechanic removed the clear binnacle cover on the gauges and looked inside, but could not find anything to tighten or pad. The only other time it seems to stop is when I pull the telescoping steering wheel all the way out to its maximum distance from the dashboard.
I'm out of warranty (way) - any ideas folks?
-FS
When I just started my car, I heard a hissing sound coming from near the power window controls to my left. I also saw the lighting of these buttons (especially the one that adjusts the side mirrors) flickering. My car is an Accord Ex-L 06,
From your description, you may have an electrical short circuit to ground in one of the power window switches or switch lighting circuits. If you can locate the fuse box near the parking brake from your owner's manual, check to see if the applicable fuse(s) have blown. If not, pull it/them on the off chance you might have another visit from Mr. Hissy-fit - this time with the potential for fire. Since your car is a 2006 model, the actual fix will be on Honda's warranty, but you want the car safe enough to operate to get it to the dealer's service department.
Does anyone know how can I set up the oil life back to 100% and the indicator light to off? I read earlier postings, which suggested that I hold down the 'trip button' while igniting the engine and wait until the light is off. however, i did that and no effect at all.
Thanks for all your help.
But, since you may not have one (if you bought the car used you may not)
1.) Turn the key to the "On" position, DON'T crank it (that's where you messed up)
2.) Press the "trip" button, and hold the button for ten-seconds with the key in the "on" position, and the light should turn off.
PS: The "on" position is where the dashboard lights come on and the seatbelt chime will activate, but the car doesn't crank.
I'll say it again; PLEASE read your owner's manual, it will help you with all of the details like this one. It'll save you a lot of time and trouble when you have questions like this. It is what it was created for. I'm happy to help, but the manual can likely tell you more than people like me can.
-FS
Any of you Accord owners out there also Odyssey owners (or Toyota Sienna owners)? Whattaya think? Am I better off with the Odyssey EX or the Odyssey LX? Should I go Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna? Toyo is more expensive but is offering 0% financing, which means I can buy more car for less money. But my wife and I both liked driving the Odyssey a lot better.
I've surfed the Odyssey board on this site and it scares me. But so do the reports on the Sienna. I'm trying to choose between thrums at 2100 rpm with doors that open/close with a mind of their own, and engines that develope more sludge than Prince William Sound after the Exxon Valdez passed through.
What say youze?!
Thanks!
-FS :confuse:
Like I said, the manual will tell you word for word, correctly.
Any ideas?
..agreed BUT OM contains little guidance on AV6 6M replacement tires......
TireRack has big time positives for Mich Pilot Exalto A/S tires.......
Looking to substantiate/reaffirm/add to TR's Exalto findings.....(Act in haste/repent at leisure avoidance).
..ez.
I am a three-time Honda owner. I had a 1999 Civic which we had to unfortunately sell because it is too small with two kids. I also have a 2003 Accord-EX, with 60,000 miles. I am telling you - they don't make them as they used to anymore. My Civic was 6 years/90,000 old. Nothing but oil and filter changes. Not a single malfunction, had to replace the muffler at 5 years, that's all. Can't say the same about the Accord. Not quite a piece of junk, but pretty close. Still much better, I bet, than a Ford or a Chevy, but...
Anyway, we had to trade up the poor Civic for the 2006 Odyssey. This one I absolutely love. My wife who is driving it loves it even more. Granted, only 10,000 miles on it, but what a vehicle. We didn't go cheap-o, and we bought a leather, Navigation and DVD for the kids in the back. My neighbor got a regular LX. Day and night!!! Nothing you don't need, a lot of good stuff, helpful stuff. Looking at the whole package, overall the savings are huge. You are paying 5,000 over the LX, but you probably get $10,000 worth of neat improvements. If you have kids, LX-Leather is the one to go with. They need to wipe their noses and to watch TV in the back. NAV is less helpful, for us at least, we rarely go places, but the rear-view camera (a MUST for women) only comes with NAV.
All-in-all, a great buy. We also looked at the Sienna (I only consider Toyo or Hondas as worth owning). Much more money and less competetive when it comes to luxury and ergonomics. I am sure it is a tad more reliable, but not by $4,000. I just bought a 7-yr warranty on the Odyssey, and that is my insurance policy against any trouble. And troubles will come, with so much stuff inside, electronics especially: think two DVD-drives, Navidation, climate control, a bunch of remotes for all kinds of entertainment and a lot more. I thing a Honda warranty is a must on such a purchase.
Anyway, I hope I helped. E-mail if you have questions or concerms about an Odyssey. I can tell you that I have been lucky with this one. I don't know what the others experienced. There is always a chance one can get a lemon, with any car.
Kolbasik
The only negative I consistently hear or read about with either vehicle is with the run-flat tires. There are other forums here on Edmunds that address run-flat tires. Myself, I'd lean toward the Odyssey unless AWD is a must have option. Either way, avoid equipping whichever you choose with optional run-flats.
I will be replacing the Energy or whatever is on my car now with Exalto when the time comes. Hope this helps!
What was unbelieveable yesterday was that the first Acura TL we test drove had the EXACT SAME rattling noise coming from the steering column in the exact same area (left side somewhere in the vicinity of the turn signal handle). My heart was broken because I'd been told that was the only new 2006 black Acura TL with ebony interior left on the lot! Luckily there turned out to be one more. We didn't hear anything during the test drive on the second one and so far so good. What a driving difference between the Accord and the TL...and only a $5900 price difference between the prices I paid for each.
.....strong statement, 07.....I like your style!
...commencing right now, looks like my naval reserve pay goes into the Exalto A/S tire fund.........
...how about noise compared to OEM?
'preciate your info ..
..ez..
instead of putting in 'R', if i put in 'D' with the hand brake on, i don't get the noise when i press the gas pedal to go forward. i only have the noise when i go in reverse with the hand brake on.
i wonder why it is so.