Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

daver321

Which car's sun shade could I use as a rear sun shade for my 2006 Honda Accord Coupe?
I am talking about those sun shades you buy that have a shiny foil side, and you can roll up and store in the back seat when not in use.
You put them inside the front windshield to keep the car cooler and to protect the dash from cracking. The one I bought was made for an Accord, and is a perfect fit for the front, but is a bit too wide to fit in the rear window. Has anyone ever tried to find one from another car that will fit on an Accord's rear window? I don't want to buy a whole bunch for trial and error, because of the cost, but this is probably what I will have to do to find the perfect fit for the rear window. I don't want louvers, spring loaded pull down shades or put on a dark film tint. I don't think anyone has ever tried this before, but I am asking anyways.

elroy5

That should be easy enough. Measure the rear windshield, then find a shade that will fit those dimensions. I think you will get tired of climbing in the back seat to install it, but it's your car so do what you want.

accord6mt

Thanks for the info, EZ... Yeah, the clutch still works decently, but you're exactly right about the clutch details. It's just not the same clutch as it was at 30K and that's understandable.

LOVE the Supra Turbo!

Cheers!

segovp

Hey I am new to this forum and it looks very good!! I have a 2006 Accord is it possible to replace the brakepads self?? I have done this on several other cars and the toughest one so far was the back pads on a Peugeot 307.

elroy5

I have a 2006 Accord is it possible to replace the brakepads self??

That's a good question. Rear disk? Do you know how to get the rear calliper piston to go back in? Do you know how to install the shims and paste? Do you know how to bleed the brakes, if needed?
If you don't, I would suggest buying one of those cheap repair manuals ($15-$20) from Autozone or Advance.

bvdj84

I would have someone else do it. It'll be worth the cost to do it. Since it is such a newer car. Unless you like doing things like this. That way the work is covered.

tennis

Hello,
2003 V6 EX Sadan with 85,000 miles.
My heater/AC, radio display, and the seat heater display lights just went out. Pure Darkness.
However the Radio, Heater/AC, heated seats still all work just fine.
Just dark display.
Any advice, fuse, light bulb,etc?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

bunkie1

That particular item (dark radio display) has an extended warranty. I'm going from memory, but I think it was 7 years, 100,000 miles. I believe the failure rate on them must be close to 100%. Anyway, call the dealer and they'll fix it for you at no charge.

There's a DIY fix, but it's pretty complicated and takes hours. There's no reason to do it yourself if you're still covered.

bunkie1

P.S.

I don't think the seat heater lights are related, unless the V6 EX is somehow different than my 4 cyl. EX. I've had problems with the seat heater lights too, but have just ignored them. I did have one fixed when my car was still under warranty and I think they just swapped the whole switch.

bobbee25

May be a coincidence, was using a gps with cig lighter for about 5 minutes. Then I tried to start car, not a sound. Wipers moved half way and stopped, some dash lights lit, no headlights, no radio, etc Door locks must be manually moved.
I would assume that if it was the battery we would hear a clicking sound from the starter relay. Nothing.
Is there a master fuse ??

bobbee25

mrbill1957

Since your wipers did move a little, my guess is your battery developed a short. I've had that happen already.

Mrbill

srizvi1

Posted this over on the Honda Accord High Mileage Success Stories thread, thought I'd post here too.

A little bit prior to 11/24/2008, 122,566 miles, the check engine light went on in my 2004 Honda Accord EX Sedan Auto w/ Nav. I took it into the dealer and was told it was my Canister Shut valve. I heard mixed stories on what led to it, with one service manager saying that there was nothing I could do to replace it, while another one said that I should have been doing the fuel induction service (something not mentioned in the manual) every 30k miles. The estimate to do this was $410 (including the cost of the oil change - minus the cost of oil though because I brought my own Mobil 1 5w-30 in). However, thankfully I had some random $100 off coupon which had actually expired but they still took it. So my final cost was $319.83 to replace the canister shut valve and oil change.

I wrote a letter to Honda customer care saying I was a bit annoyed with this if it could have been prevented. They called me back and said though the fuel induction service isn't mentioned in the manual, I should listen to what the dealer says specific to my area. Anyone have thoughts on the fuel induction service?

With my car now at 122,566+, I still need to take care of the big ticket items it's due for such as spark plugs, transmission service, and coolant. I'm thinking of emailing the dealers around the area to see if I can get the price low. I have the 120k service in general due, but I'm planning on doing the cabin and air filter myself to soften the blow. Usually, I try to get everything done at firestone since most of the service is just inspections.

eyedoc3

Looking for input on my 4cyl '05 Accord. Starts hard, sounds like a car with a low battery. Battery has been changed, Honda dealer also changed thermostat and a sensor that had to do with outside temp/ how much gas to fire? They said that did a charge test of alternator/starter and all checked fine. After this, engine light no longer came on but starting was really no better. Honda dealer then told me that some Hondas just crank a bit. I am worried about this winter, live in upstate NY and car is really fighting to start last few mornings. Thanks much.

blufz1

Change your own sparkplugs. You could drain and fill your own coolant and atf.

srizvi1

Is it that easy to do these things? I thought the ATF was especially involving. There's a post somewhere involving draining, driving, re-draining, etc.

blufz1

Look in your manual. The procedures are described in my 2002 v6 manual. The spark plugs are easier if you have a 4 cylinder. It's just literally draining and refilling. I think the dealer charges about $50-75 for atf drain and refill. Same for coolant drain refill. Quoted me $ 225 on spark plugs. I bought 6 platinum plugs for $65 and did it myself. I do use a torque wrench to make sure I get the proper torque on each bolt or plug I install.

bobbee25

For the last few months, about once a week, when I attempt to start the car there is a brief grinding noise. I immediatley stop, wait a few seconds and then start the car without any issues.
This is an intermitten problem so if I go to the dealer it can't be duplicated.
Should I have the starter replaced or wait for it to quit ?
Is this an expensive replacement ?

zhengying

with 46000 miles, this morning dashboard light went out, speedometer, odometer, fuel gauge etc not funtional at all, while i am driving to work, only has "break, TCS & ABS" indicator on, however, turning signal and headlight still working.
Also, when headlight on, HVAC radio display on center console goes dim. when headlight off, it come back on.
I don't think going to be fuse, could be alternatoror something?
PLEASE HELP!

accord6mt

I had almost this same problem right before my battery died. Alternator was fine, just a defective battery.

You can get your battery tested/charged for free at many auto stores.

Good luck!

zhengying

battery is OK, all the interior light, headlight and map light are working fine
how about yours?
the meter display module assemblely alone cost about $230,
I hope just replace battery will work...

stickguy

just because the interior lights are on doesn't mean your battery is putting out a normal amount. And the electircs can't get shacked out when the current flow is low. If you are still on the original battery it is way overdue. Change it and you will know!

also have everything checked out (battery, altenator, etc.) Honda OEM batteries are prety weak to start with.

ezshift5

.......the one that starts the car) Planning ahead department:

Battery for the keyless entry fob is now age 3.5.........

What sort of grief awaits (price, set screw difficult removal) ???

Should the dealer be involved? Perhaps a battery store? The nice jeweler that replaced my wristwatch battery?

mrbill1957

I opened up my fob when I first got my 04 Accord (a little nosy I guess). I don't remember seeing anything hard to deal with inside, just a coin cell battery. The hard part was finding a decent Phillips screwdriver to fit the small screw. I do remember the screw being very tight.

Mrbill

chucko3

My 03EXV6 still has its original battery. It's 6 yrs old.
I guess parking in the garage during winter may extend the
battery life and the audio LCD's PCB.

With a volt meter, measure the battery. It should be over 12.x V
DC with the engine off. And 14.x V with the engine on.

thegraduate

Hey guys - just curious - how long have your wiper blades lasted in your Accords? I have a 2006 Accord sedan, with 42,200 miles on it (purchased in Nov. 2005) and have never replaced the wiper blade inserts.

Just curious; how long have yours lasted?

stickguy

I bought my '05 in Dec. 2005. Just replaced the inserts (got Honda ones so I didn't have to replace the assemply). Made a big difference, as the old ones had gotten pretty smeary.

You don't realize how much better new ones are (or how crappy your old ones had gotten!0 until you replace them.

For 10 bucks, splurge!

tallman1

I just replaced mine last month for the first time, grad. I just turned 60k and was impressed how long they lasted. Here in the lovely Pacific NW, I use them a lot too.

On my other cars, I always replaced them every fall with something from the auto parts store. I was so impressed with the originals that I ordered Honda refills from HandA. I borrowed a trick from Elroy's book and ordered two sets along with a cabin filter and air filter to save on shipping.

mrbill1957

One thing I use on wiper blades to keep them working better is to wipe the edge with rubbing alcohol. The edges of the blades can build up with gunk, and the alcohol cleans it off.

I just installed "winter blades" on my truck. I have to leave the vehicle outside, and the old blade frames would freeze up. The winter blades have made a big difference. Well worth the extra $$ if you live in a northern climate.

Mrbill

kcrossley

My 2006 Accord with Navi just hit 40,000 miles.

Last night I had to call AAA to jump start my battery, which apparently has died. Thankfully, the car was purchased in August 2006, so the battery is still under warranty. However, with all the electronics on this sucker I'm wondering if I should consider purchasing an extended warranty. Of course, now that I'm beyond 36,000 miles it might not even be an option. Any advice?

tallman1

After 36k, I don't think it is an option... at least one from Honda.

ezshift5

.....with all the electronics on this sucker I'm wondering if I should consider purchasing an extended warranty.........

Dealer used same reasoning during my 6M coupe purchase adventure. In the next breath, she indicated: "Usual price is $2800/today only it's $1800"..........

I declined - - - - - - - but later - online from Ray Laks near NYC - laid out $585 for 6yr/80k Honda Care EW. This was 3+ years back; nothing stays the same.

My point is: be careful around the dealer. Hopefully alternatives still are out there.

seasons best, ez....

thegraduate

Buying an extended warranty is simply betting against yourself. The fact that your car is the 4th year of the model run, most of the big bugs should have been worked out by now, and I simply wouldn't do it.

By the way, I have an '06 Accord EX and love it!

Merry Christmas,

TheGrad

anhle

Hi guys,
I wonder if you could help. Mine is Accord EX-03. Of the 3 lights on the back (lef-right and center) which supposed to be red when I brake, only the left one is on.
Also, the dome light and the driver reading light do not work, no matter if we open/close door or switch them. The passenger side map light works OK though. I did open to check the bulbs and see they are OK.
So, together, I think there should be some problem with the wiring or fuse or switch somewhere, not with the bulbs (for brake as well). Could you guys tell me where to check?
Thank you very much.
Lee

thegraduate

When was your car battery last replaced? Weak batteries cause cars to do screwy things.

anhle

Thank you for the attention. I replaced the battery just in July. Should still be good.
It's strange that the right map light is OK, but the left is not (though the bulb is new). According to my Hayness repair book , they seem use same wire (same power, same control). I may be wrong, as I am not experienced with reading car wiring schema.

About the high-mount brake light and the right brake light, do you think the problem is the tail light relay?
Lee

srizvi1

My car's at 120k+ miles and I didn't have a problem that would have fallen under the warranty until recently. Otherwise, no problems at all. w/ the extended warranties, you're just betting on a problem going down in a small window of miles. I don't htink it's worth it.

elroy5

I would try switching the working bulbs (left and right tail lights and left and right map lights), that would eliminate the chance of bad/wrong bulbs. Like you said, I don't think the left and right tail lights or map lights run on separate fuses or relays. If one's out, the other would be too. Do you have a test light? It would come in very handy to check for power coming to the bulb.

tankbeans

It really depends on where you live. I replaced the blades on mine back in november (07) and they are due for replacement again. Smearing a lot. Then again there's a lot of ice to deal with and that's wearing down on the blades pretty bad. As most of you know I live in MN.

thegraduate

Yeah, I've chewed up one set with ice, and learned to get a spray deicer to use.

Down here, the sun dry-rots them!

tankbeans

You mean the washer fluid or the bright orange stuff in the squirt bottle? Maybe that would make it less of a chore to clear the ice in the morning.

Last year I had to replace them because one of the blades itself, the rubber insert, was torn completely from the blade. Metal on glass does not a good situation make.

Merry Christmas

BTW I just rolled 58,000 miles My car's getting old. Just kidding. Although with winter here my mileage is sucking. At just over half tank and I've gone 112 miles since my last fill. :sick:

tallman1

BTW I just rolled 58,000 miles My car's getting old.

Heck, Tank... my 06 just turned 60k. Yours is just a baby.

elroy5

My 03 just hit 60k miles. Of course I plan to have this car for 15 years, so it should end up being around 180k by then. Hardly feels broken in at this point.

tankbeans

Mine doesn't feel like it's feeling any of the miles, although there is a pretty decent shake at 60 and I have to hold the wheel slightly to the right to maintain a straight line, alignment issue that I have to have fixed. I only have to hold it about 1/4 inch to the right.

I plan on having this car for a while yet, meaning more than 10 years.

hondalova

Geez - you guys are Honda kiddies! My car just turned 107,000 miles and I'm still using it to commute 100+ miles per day roundtrip to work. Plan to do Timing Belt/Water Pump in the next week or two and will probably give it a once over for any hoses/belts needed, double check strust & ball joints, etc..

But everything still works right and looks good with only two exceptions: (A) keep getting intermittent Check Engine lite with mixed misfire codes (all six cylinders plus general misfire code) - I've posted about this before, and (b) need to replace some of the rubber bushings in the suspension cross-braces - they squeak and one sounds like it is close to banging metal to metal.

Misfire code has been a P.I.T.A. (occasional intermittent rough idle - stall threat if not on road and moving) but I've learned to ignore it. I believe it to be a bad ignition coil somewhere in the 6 but haven't been able to get the misfire to be present long enough to actually disconnect plugs one-at-a-time and see which one it is.

However, I suspect that I can probably do nothing and this car will likely outlast me.

-FS

tallman1

Geez - you guys are Honda kiddies!

Well we were just talking about our gen VII Accords. My 95 has around 230k now.

thegraduate

You mean the washer fluid or the bright orange stuff in the squirt bottle? Maybe that would make it less of a chore to clear the ice in the morning.

Squirt bottle full of yellow stuff - does the trick for me, but it isn't cheap ($3.49 per 24oz, I think?). Lucky for me, I don't have that issue often.

georgeden

Can anyone tell me how to adjust the car alarm on my 2006 accord cpe. It never gave me a problem until now and I just passed my warranty period.

GeorgeDen :confuse:

thegraduate

Can you provide more details? What do you mean "adjust" your alarm? What would you like to change about it?

grampy1

I can never get the same reading hot,warm,cold.

I usually check the level first thing cold and it is between the add/fill mark. Today,5 deg.F, it barely is on dipstick. I've never had a vehicle where the level changes like that. No, i haven't had to add any fluid. :confuse: