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Comments
Look in the owner's manual, under 30,000 mile interval. If you can do everything on the list yourself, it's unnecessary. Did the service manager give you a list of what was included in that $450 bill? If you can do half of it yourself, you can obviously lower your cost. Much of it is just checking the condition of certain parts, like brake pads etc, but IMO it needs to be done by someone. If not you, someone else.
You have the maintenance minder system so you should check there first. The codes are in your manual. I'm not near mine now but it is the service that includes changing the cabin air filter.
I had my dealer do an ala carte kind of thing for me. There were some things I could do myself and others that I wasn't worried about at the time. It cut my bill in half, although the service dept. wasn't thrilled about it.
THey had a list of inclusions (fixed menu). IIRC, it included the air and cabin filter, brake fluid change, oil change, tire rotation, tranny fluid change, valve adjustment (could have been inspection, since most likely they didn't need to be adjusted!), and a bunch of inspections.
I passed at the time. Tires just rotated and car aligned at the tire shop (and the visual undercarraige inspections done). I have a manual tranny, so the AT service is not needed, and I can do the air filters myself.
So after knocking off the tires, etc, it was about $200 for a bunch of look overs, and they do most of them anyway with the $29.99 oil change and 29 point inspection!
I also checked my owners manual (I don't have a MM), and none of the big stuff was called for at 30K (or close to it). Valves inspected at 100K and change the plugs, etc.
THe only thing it should have done (and I know noone ever does) is changing the brake fluid every 2 years (in the manual, only Honda recommends that), the air filters are certainly due (mine are 3 years old), and that's about it.
The inspections are all stuff that should get done when the tires are rotated. And I will have the brake fluid changed when I finally need a brake job (not for a while yet) or next rotation. The air filters I can probably do myself, or if I get lazy, next oil change.
Oh, if you have an AT, I would get the fluid changed at 30K too, especially with a 6 cyl!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I think the process goes like this.
1.) From the "off" position, turn the key to "on" position (the second position in which the seatbelt chime and the warning lights will illuminate).
2.) Tap the trip reset button until you get to the Oil Life Indicator
3.) Push and hold the button for 10-15 seconds, until the Oil Life resets to 100%.
I think this is correct (about 90% sure, which is why I wanted you to check the manual). I'm at work, and in my old '96 Accord today so I can't look it up for you until I get home.
Best regards,
TheGraduate
2006 Accord EX I4 5AT - 40,000 miles
1996 Accord LX I4 4AT - 184,000 miles
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
Regards,
Corkscrew
I've also noticed that my driver's side heated seat sometimes feels like it's on, even when it's not. And today my navigation system asked me for a code, which it only does when the battery has been disconnected after maintenance.
Has anyone else experienced these issues? If so, what was the problem?
Go have your battery and alternator load tested. Many autoparts chains (Pepboys, autozone, etc) will do this free of charge. Your battery is old enough, that it could be going.
You should also check for corrosion on your battery terminals and connectors.
The code can usually be found on a sticker in/on the glovebox, I believe.
I just dug out my owners manual (looking for the code card in the glovebox) and under radio theft protection it specifically only refers to the EX and EX-V6 as requiring a 5 digit code for reset? there is no reference to LX models under Radio Theft Protection. this is page 152 of a 2004 manual. Im not going to change the battery asap but when I do it's not a large consequence to call honda service if I'm wrong.
The EX and up models have 6CD changers that the other models don't have, as well as different looking displays (see pictures below).
LX
.
.
EX
Any one had luck with replacement tires they'd like to recommend? I've been pleased with the Michelins and assume I can get new ones similar to what I have, though I suspect that would be the most expensive route to go.
I value quietness. I put some Kumho Solus KH16 tires on a 2000 Accord coupe I had awhile back, and they rode very quiet, though I haven't checked to see if they have 205/65/15's for my current car. I think I paid about $360 for those, and the Michelins would have been about $570.
Info about any good experiences with replacement tires would be appreciated. Thanks very much.
Anyway I'm looking for new tires for my 03 as well. My car shakes pretty bad and the tires are all balanced, but my friend says the tread isn't even. One of the tires on the front has been plugged once. So maybe that's been an issue. I would like the same info. Thanks, and I didn't mean to be rude to you austinman if I was.
Local dealer matched the tirerack prices. Best of both worlds.
Yeah, I've used tirerack in the past for information gathering -- a great site. We had Bridgestone Turanza's on my son's '98 Accord coupe as OEM and replacements and they were good. I'll check those out. Thanks for your feedback.
kiawah,
Thanks, too, for your comments. I assume you've been happy with the Michelin Pilots. I'll check those out also.
The OEM tires are Bridgestone Turanza EL 41 P195/65R15 89H M+S. The wheels are 15 inch steel ones. What would be a good replacement?
I'm in New England so I need all season tire to deal with snowy weather. I think I need all season tires with good high-speed stability/performance and relatively quiet/comfort ride. Long-lasting tread is preferred but are not my top priorities. Though I hope they would last 45-50K.
Thanks.
If your back tires are better then the front, you may want to rotate them since the front tires do most of the work.
Mrbill
I first tried experimenting with different types of gas with higher octane levels. Nothing helps. I am back to regular but with same result...bad gas mileage. I use Sunoco gas if that helps with anything.
According to the records, everything has been changed...including oil, filters, and other major fluids have been changed. The only thing i can think of is maybe something to do with the gas lines...could they be clogged? Maybe the fuel injectors are clogged or something?
What else could be causing such a low MPG on a 4 cylinder engine?
Do you think a fuel injector cleaner like Techron Concentrate Plus will help with this problem. I really don't know what else it could be. Thanks for any input you contribute with.
Without those pieces of information it would be difficult to really make a guess as to why you are experiencing such low mileage. There is another forum that you can go on to get more help. I'm going to link it for you so you can go and ask in there.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ef7c366/2448
This is the Honda Accord Real World MPG forum and it has a lot of good stuff on it. I've been participating in the discussion for over a year and I've learned some very useful tips. Hopefully it can help you too.
Have a great day.
Although its a bigger car, it does have a lot smoother engine in it then my 97 accord...on top of the EPA supposedly estimated this car to get 24/34 city and highway respectively. It kind of stuns me that after a mix in city and highway driving then it averaged 22. Hope this extra info helps.
Also, do you know if your wife has had to run her defrosters a lot lately? The reason I ask is because running the defroster automatically turns on your A/C. I would guess that if you live in NJ she's had to run it a little lately since the weather has been vaguely cold and a little frosty. In your 97 Accord the defroster doesn't automatically turn on the A/C. My guess is the main culprit is the cooler weather and the use of defrosters, again unsure if that's the case, but it's my best guess.
Again, they'll be able to help you out a lot over on the Real World MPG forum. It's helped me a lot.
As far as using the defroster, we have been using it quite a bit. Maybe thats the answer. Thanks
My guess is that your defroster is the big "problem". Supposedly there is a way to override the car's tendency to turn on the A/C when the defrost is enabled. I've not been successful in getting it to work though.
I hope you're able to get the mileage where you want it or expect it to be. Good luck and enjoy your "new" car.
There is in models that do not have auto-climate control.
I took the car to my local mechanic. He opened the hood, stretched his fingers into behind the headlights compartment -- and VOILA, the old bulb was out, and within seconds the new bulb was in....
WTF? Seems like whoever wrote the manual was thinking about another car? This is an '05 car, Honda had plenty time to revise and correct it, since 2003 when the first 7th generation Accord came out....
Thanks!
.....6MT at 60k works as well as the design permits: vague, inconsistent friction point, in or out (not much engagement travel).............but it will probably last well over 100k (my SupraTurbo went 126k on the OEM clutch).
I would budget $850 to a grand for a factory replacement clutch.....................
best, ez....