Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

srizvi1

haven't confused me tankbeans. thanks for taking the time for this. I'll give it a shot on my own and see what happens.

pastatie

tankbeans,
Nitrogen is pretty much becoming standard---Costco for one uses it. The benefits are less condensation, air loss with changes in temperature etc.. Sorry I don't have the brochure but I am sure you could Google the benefits. Nascar supposedly has been using it for years.

arbys

I own my 2007 Honda Accord EX-L which I bought new exactly 1 year ago. The windshield fogs up almost immediately these days, while I am driving in 70 degree weather outside. It's to the point where I have to keep the defroster on non-stop if I want to see clearly. Any idea what could be causing this? It's a similar story for the rear window, but not as bad...

kiawah

Fogging would be caused by excessive moisture in the car. You either have a leak somewhere of outside water (carpet wet?), clogged moonroof drains?, leaking heater core in the A/C-Heater, leaking trunk seal, etc.

thegraduate

If your car is under warranty, take it to the dealer and let them investigate.

arbys

How does that work? Will they do investigative work like this for free, since under warranty? How often will the actual problem diagnosed be covered by the warranty in the end?

thegraduate

If there is a problem, and you get it on record before your warranty is up, you'll have a better shot at getting it repaired for free later on even beyond your warranty, since you'll have documentation that a problem existed even before the warranty expired.

And yes, when your car is under warranty, any investigation into a problem should be free, as should the repair, assuming you didn't mess up the car yourself (which they can only say you did if they can prove it; say if you or someone else who drove your car jammed something into the vents, etc...).

Long story short, if there's any problem with the car while it is under warranty, take it in; they're obligated to fix it. The dealer doesn't pay for it; Honda reimburses dealers for warranty work.

In the 39,000 miles I've had my '06 Accord EX I've had the following work done under warranty:

1.) New Rear-View Mirror (my mirror glass wasn't attached properly to the plastic mirror itself, so that it could actually wiggle out. Around 1,000 miles

2.) Gas-flap adjustment. A small rubber piece was misaligned which prevented the flap from opening. Around 500 miles

3.) New Center-Console Lid Cover (not the entire hinged piece, just the sliding cover) because the fabric pulled out from underneath the front, exposing the edges of the fabric and left it hanging out. Around 35,000 miles.

4.) New 6CD-Changer - My changer wouldn't eject my CDs, or play them. Around 37,000 miles (warranty extends to 37,800 (5% longer) miles because of a class-action lawsuit referring to odometers reading high)

5.) Lubricated my hinged console-lid, because it creaked loudly when opening and closing (something it shouldn't do on a 10,000 mile car like it was at the time)

ezshift5

.....LOF + new cabin air filter + new V-6 air filter AND - to address the sometimes balky 2nd to 3rd gear shift - new manual transmission fluid: GM SynchroMesh - - Friction Modified. Anyone conversant with this interesting product from the General?

all the best, ez....

droman

Make sure that you don't have the system set in recirculation mode. If you run it in this mode for a length of time with no a/c it will cause all windows to fog up.

solo2165

AC does not blow in my 2003 Honda Accord. The lights go on and so does the "fan" for a few seconds when I do cut on the air.

roosterfisher

07' Accord, Key Stuck The key was stuck in the Accessory Position last night. I can't get my key out, and I can't start the car, also the brake paddle locked. It is the first time this new car make me trouble. Today is Sunday, no dealer open today, but I need to move the car. Any one has any idea?Thanks

elroy5

Try moving the steering wheel to the left and right. If the steering collum is in a bind, it can jam the ignition switch.

srizvi1

I've gotten a call from my mom once and my little brother once when they borrowed my car and the key got "stuck." The verdict? The car wasn't in park all the way because something (my handsfree kit in both cases) was blocking the P from connecting all the way.

buyahome

Try wiggling the steering wheel just a little from side to side as you turn the key. Works for me when that happens.

csquared1

2007 accord se 4 cylinder

I noticed the the air blown out from the vent is noticeable cold with vent option set to window and warmer with other vent option. A./C is not turned on and temperature is set at neutral position.

The dealer told me that the A/C is automatically turned on when setting the vent option to window.

However, I still feel like the heater is on when the vent option is not set to window. What is a reasonable temperature of the air blow out of the vent compared to the outside temperature ( for example, 75 degree of outside).

Do you have the similar experience?

Thanks,

accordman7

Hello,

I had to replace my Honda Accord 2007 battery after excatly 1.5 years from purchase date. Isn't that too early?

The dealer replaced the original battery wtih a Delco, would that be fine?

What is the typical expected service time of the original battery?

Thanks in advance.

elroy5

The battery in my 03 Accord lasted 3 1/2 years, then it started causing communication problems with the computers (control units). I bought a new battery from Sams club, with a little more power than the original, but I don't think it's going to last very long either. I'm thinking an Optima yellow top will be worth the extra cost for my next battery. These cars seem to be hard on batteries, and any interruption in the power supply to the computers (starting the engine for example) can cause communication problems.

stickguy

3-4 years for a Honda OEM seems to be normal. THey go with the minimum power and they don't last.

I need to replace the battery in our 2005 Odyssey soon. It is below spec, and no way it makes the winter.

CR just tested batteries, and top rated was an interstate, but right up with it was the Everstart sold by Walmart. I plan to go that route, since the interstate priced out much higher at one shop near me.

Although any of the major aftermarket shope (autozone, etc.) top line (higher power) batteries should be better than the OEM, or certainly as good.

kiawah

4-5 years, 3 years min

Look at when your vehicle was made, not when you purchased it. I believe the drivers door jamb will have the manufactured date.

mrbill1957

Some of the worst treatment to a battery can happen right at the dealership. The car can sit for a long time, the battery goes dead. The dealer attaches a charger or worse, does a quick jump start to get the car running. The car may be parked again, and the process starts all over. If it's in a climate that's cold, the battery may even freeze if it goes dead. All of this will shorten the life of a battery.

Mrbill

lilengineerboy

I'm thinking an Optima yellow top will be worth the extra cost for my next battery.

My understanding was the yellow top is a "deep cycle" type battery and the red top was the normal/slightly buff battery. We used the yellow tops in our experimental vehicles that had DC/AC converters and heavy drain from computers and data collection systems (as well as an audiophile alternator) but for the standard vehicles, we used the red tops and were fine.

crimsonarcher

I've a dealer installed automate car starter on my 2005 accord ex. Somehow it beeps once in a while and
starts the car automatically... i won't even know this has happened but it leave my car idling. any idea how i can fix this?

kiawah

Take it back to the dealer who installed it............

tankbeans

Hey all-

I'm going to see if my friend can help me change the oil in my 2003 Accord 4 cylinder. My friend said we would need to find out whether or not the oil filter is "spin on or cartridge," I'm not entirely sure what this means and was hoping somebody could help me with this. I know it's sort of stupid, but I don't want to wait until 59k to do my oil change when the last one I had was at 51k. I'm currently sitting at 56k.

I know they supposedly said that the car can go 10k between changes, but that doesn't sound right to me.

Thank you in advance for your help.

stickguy

99% sure that it is a normal spoin on filter. The only car I remember recently having a cartridge was the Mazda 6/Ford Fusion 4 cyl.

basically the cartridge is the insides of a spin on filter. You have to take out the messy part, but the housing stays on the engine. If that makes sense...

just check in the parts book at any auto parts store or walmart, etc. that sells them, and it will tell you what you need. Or check online at any honda internet parts retailer, like handa.com.

tankbeans

Thank you for humoring me. I'm kind of stupid. Another quick question. What is the crush washer and is this something that is absolutely necessary or can it be skipped.

The honda website says that it needs to be replaced whenever the oil is changed. I know that they are trying to get more money by making you go to the dealer, but I guess I've never heard of this and I know that many people change their own oil.

Thanks again.

chucko3

My 03EXV6 still has its original battery. Bought the car in 11/2002.

Mr_Shiftright

That's a little bronze washer that goes on the oil drain plug. Replacing it every change is a bit fanatical but if they have them at the store, sure why not?

elroy5

The crush washer is on the drain plug. It can be re-used, if it's still in good shape (no deep grooves in it).

tankbeans

Thanks much. If I see one I'll pick it up, but I guess if it crushes into the same opening why would it make a difference. I'm kind of stupid.

mrbill1957

Yes, the I4 Accord uses a spin on oil filter. It's mounted horizontally, so expect some oil to spill when it's removed.

The crush washer is used on the drain plug. It doesn't have to be replaced every time the plug is removed. I've re-used the washer dozens of times with no problems.

Mrbill

tankbeans

Awesome. That sounds a bit more reasonable than having to replace it every time it is removed. More reasons I think that I'm going to start seriously discussing issues before taking the car to the dealer. I know that many are only out to get money, unfortunately.

Don't get me wrong the dealer I bought from was nice to buy from, but service department is a whole other can of worms. Nice, but trying to get you to replace things that don't need to be replaced.

elroy5

I've never seen a bronze crush-washer. I've only seen the regular aluminum silver color washers. The aluminum is soft, so it will "crush" when the drain bolt is tightened. What can happen is, if the drain bolt is tightened too much, on the previous oil change, the washer could have a deep groove in it. Then, if the bolt is not tightened quite as much on the next oil change, and the groove is not lined up exactly where is was the first time, it could cause a leak. Even if this were to happen, I doubt it would do anything more than drip a little between changes. I think the tourq is like 30 ft. lbs. for the drain plug.

thegraduate

By the way buddy, you've mentioned your driving style keeps your mileage lower than several here. Based on that (I average 30 MPG in my driving habits and my maintenance minder sends me to the dealer at 7,000 miles or so), I'd suggest changing your oil every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. I specifically remember you telling us about your 6,100 RPM romps being a somewhat "regular" thing... changing your oil at 5k would probably be good.

Just a thought.

zpick

One of the radiator fans on my 2005 Honda Accord stays on long after the car has been turned off, ultimately completely draining the battery. I am guessing that it might be the thermostat. Any help would be appreciated.

kiawah

I don't have electrical schematics for your vehicle, but most vehicles have relays which are the final control to the radiator fans because of the high current. The points on the relay could have arc'ed and welded themselves together....providing power all of the time.

The thermostat is one of the inputs to the control circuitry, other inputs are typically whether the air conditioner is on or not. That control circuitry would then supply power to the 'primary' circuity of the relay, which is a magnetic coil. That coil when energized, flips the relay on.....and the 'secondary' high current contact points supply power to fan motors.

Look for one or two relays, usually up in the engine compartment.

zpick

Thanks. I'm afraid it is going to be more than I can handle. I'll take it in for service and see what comes up. I appreciate you taking the time to respond.

kingr

I have a 2006 Accord sedan LX V6, As long as I can remember it had a slight hesitation when I take my foot off the brake and apply the gas, This is when I am still moving, have not come to a stop just slowed down then speed up, Is this normal, do others feel this hesitation, I was told this was due to the drive by wire throttle.

Thanks

janina

I feel it too...My accord is a 2003...If you find out what it is please let me know.
jts768@telusplanet.net

elroy5

My 92 Accord did that too (same as my 03 V6), so I don't think it has anything to do with Drive by Wire. I think it's a transmission computer thing. If you don't stop completely, the transmission takes a couple seconds to figure out if it wants to go down to 1st gear, or second. If you stop completely, it doesn't happen.

tankbeans

My car does the same thing. It's an 03 inline 4. If I am slowing down and then the light changes and I give it a little gas it will sort of think for a second and then will go into the right gear. I don't think that there is anything wrong with the transmission.

elroy5

I think it's just the way the transmission works (quirk). V6 or 4 cylinder, drive by wire or not, they all do it. Normal

stickguy

Not the stick shift ones! They are alway s int he gear you want them to be in.

chucko3

I think it has to do with Grade logic & Drive by Wire.

elroy5

I think it has to do with Grade logic & Drive by Wire.

My 92 Accord did it too, and had neither of those.

elroy5

Not the stick shift ones! They are alway s int he gear you want them to be in.

Well, I can drive my automatic in stop and go traffic, and not wear my left leg out.
PS: too bad the characters in your sentence don't go exactly where you want them to. If you shift like you type, you must be in the wrong gear often.

kingr

Thanks for all the replies, Sounds like this is normal even though I could live without it. Wondering if the 08-09's also do it.

tankbeans

Probably. I think it's something that most transmissions do as a matter of course. I've noticed it with just about every car I've ever driven.

wise1

It's normal for all Hondas I've ever owned, 92 Accord LX. Now 07 SE. I had the purge control valve replaced about a year ago but it still vibrates at idle in gear what do I do now??? It took 3 trips and lots of ranting to get it changed, and it still vibrates both the steering wheel and in the seat I feel the vibration. It gets loud sometimes. Anyone had success in getting this permantly fixed??? :sick: :sick:

elroy5

Have your engine mounts been checked out?