Ford Bronco Problems

93ebfbronco93ebfbronco Member Posts: 1
I own a 1993 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer with the 5.8 engine. I have a vibration in the front and the shop told me I had to replace the Torque Converter in the transmission. At a cost of $600.00. Does this seem to much for this job? Any suggestions on how I can cut this cost down???? Sure would like some advice on this. Thanks


  • stranger3stranger3 Member Posts: 1
    That sound right. $600.00 is usualy what ashop charges for that kind of work. Now you could save alot of money by doing it your-self. Its just a mater having the time, basic mecanical skill and unbolting the transmition and lines and droping the drive shaft. Hope I was helpful.
  • 94eddyb94eddyb Member Posts: 1
    Hey there... I have a 94 5.0 bronco with a speed sencor problem. The speedometer intermitently stops working and when that happens the tranny stops shifting propperly. I have replaced the rear dif sensor and rewired it this did nothing. I was told that the 93 and 94 have a different sensoe that all other broncos. Has anyone heard of any solutions???

  • countrygurlcountrygurl Member Posts: 1
    i have a 89 eddie bauer bronco (fullsize) with the rear end out.i can't find a used one for that year model and i can't afford a new one.would the rear end out of a 78 ford club wagon work?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    I found 50 pages of them listed here. Plug in your info:
  • thenewguy1thenewguy1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm in the process of selling my sports car to buy a Bronco for work. Going from a sports car to a work truck is a big jump, I still want to have a good looking car and that is why i choose the Bronco. I don't know what is good and what isn't. I found a 94' with 198k and he said he got new bearings, crank shaft, oil pan, and he re-sealed the engine. He wants 4,500. Is that a good buy? or do you have any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    no its way overpriced. Try for lower miles and a cleaner car for that kind of money.
  • qftballqftball Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1991 ford Bronco one day while driving down the road it started leakin transmission fluid we pulled over and noticed it was a stream sort of like when you change your oil we checked the plugs but it seemed to be coming from the end where the engine and the trans. meet ive had two mechanics look at it and one said it was just the O rings and that they just need to be replaced and the trans. needs to be resealed but the other said it was the pump, but it hasnt leaked since and it shifts and drives just fine. Can any one Help or suggest what it might be? thanx
  • dubbayoudotdubbayoudot Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same exact problem, and I was wondering if you got the o-rings replaced. I would really appreciate any advice you might have. Thanks.
  • chev72chev72 Member Posts: 1
    hey joe ..I have a 94 5.8 bronco with exactly the same problem. I was wondering if you have found out anything more about the problem.I was going to replace the rear dif sensor but not now since it did not work on yours. THANKS ..JEFF
  • angausshar4angausshar4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 ford bronco 4*4 eddie baurer eddition and I'm havin problems w/ my trans........I can drive it for about 15-20 miles and then it starts pumping fluid out of the the tranny. then after it cools off for a while it will stop leaking and i put more fluid in, its ready for another 15-20 miles. what do you think could be the problem?
  • broncosnakebroncosnake Member Posts: 2
    Any body out there own a 87 with a 351 windsor, 4 barrel carb and c-6 tranny that came stock. i need info on setting up vacuum,to egr,exhaust control valve, intake heat control valve and charcoal canister for fuel tank and carb vapors and how it all works. any info will be appreciated. thanks, broncosnake87
  • broncosnakebroncosnake Member Posts: 2
    Anybody know of any chat rooms or other forums that I could get info on 87 broncos?
  • 90bronc90bronc Member Posts: 7
    Driving home the other day the 'tin [non-permissible content removed]' died. After getting it towed home we discovered no spark. There is power going to the coil but NO power out of the coil. We changed coils and still no spark...any ideas?
  • 90bronc90bronc Member Posts: 7
    I had a vibration in the rear of my Bronc....turned out to be the U joints....u have 4X4? check the joints
  • qftballqftball Member Posts: 2
    they told me that i needed to replace the o rings but no one will replace just one they want to do them alll for like 500 bucks what so i just bought Lucas transmission seal from the auto parts store and it lubricated the seal enough that it has never leaked again .
  • 90bronc90bronc Member Posts: 7
    ANyone know what tool I need to remove the TFI from a 90 302?...I tried everything and can't get a tool that it a 7/32 socket? my sockets are too pls!
  • 90bronc90bronc Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the help guys, the problem was indeed the Ignition control module...
  • 90bronc90bronc Member Posts: 7
    I bench tested the old ICM and it was within specs...put the new one on and she fired right up.
  • daveshirdaveshir Member Posts: 1
    Please remember that I am car illiterate when answering:) I just bought a 93 Ford Bronco at a good deal which has the check engine light on. Had it tested and it said that the throttle body sensor was not getting enough power. They suggested cleaning the wires to the sensor to see if that corrects the problem. I know where the sensor is but how should I disconnect the wires? What else should I try if this does not correct the problem? When I drive at a constant speed it is fine but the check engine light is on(does not stay on continuously). When I am in stop and go traffic and try to accelerate it sometimes hesitates as if I lost power.

    Also, my interior lights came on and wouldn't go off(had to remove the bulbs) and my rear top reverse lights did the same. Think there is a wire short but not sure where to start to look for it. My windshield wipers will work if thumped on and not sure if this is wiring or the wiper motor. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Shirley
  • 68broncogirl68broncogirl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 68 Ford Bronco that seems to have a problem with the transfer case. When I am driving in 2 high, it jumps out of gear & into neutral. I can drive it in 4 high & it is fine. We have taken the transfer case apart & don't see anything wrong with it. Does anyone have any suggestions how to fix this problem?
  • pecpec Member Posts: 3
    When starting forward it sometimes clunks but if you start gently it doesn't. It drives fine and shifts okay but sometimes slow depending on how you accelerate.What causes the clunk. Is it the differentials catching up or sliding of the driveshaft splines?
  • devinquedevinque Member Posts: 1
    :sick: I have a 93 Bronco the front tires sit out wide from bottom to top, like a whop sort of. What is the cause of this and how can I fix it.
  • rpierce3rpierce3 Member Posts: 5

    I have a 95 Bronco that has a bad transmission. Does anyone have any ideas for the cheapest way to fix it? Rebuild? Used tranny? Also, if I go to a junk yard, are there other Ford vehicles that use the same transmission? Would an F150 tranny work too? Any help would be great. Also, any suggestions for how much a used tranny should cost for this truck?

  • chalupa1chalupa1 Member Posts: 1
    I was driving along just fine when all of a sudden it ran real rough (it would cut out and then roar back to life only to die again)and then died and came back on two seconds later and then died for good. Let it sit for a few days and then it would start again but backfired REALLY bad and died shortly after. After that it wouldn't start at all no matter what. Power to the coil primary but no spark out. Replaced the coil, stator, ignition module, and brain (from junkyard), then timed it. After all this, car started and ran for a few mins, but died again the instant it was revved up after about 5 mins of running fine. Once again no spark from coil. Five speed Manual trans, 2.9L, 140K miles. NO CLUE WHAT TO DO!!! HELP PLEASE!!!
  • goldie6goldie6 Member Posts: 1
    I've noticed whenever I'm out about 1/2 mile I start losing power. She starts great and seems to truck along, but cannot seem to pick up speed. A reputable person suggested that the fuel pump wasn't getting enough pressure. Soooo we replaced it. When that didn't resolve anything, we went ahead and replaced the other one, too. Yeah, there's one in the gas tank, also. Now we're still back where we started. Finally we had someone put it on a computer that's supposed to tell all. It's pointed to the ignition module. We're going to try that. Someone also tried to say it was the catalytic converter. If anyone could shed some light on their opinions, we'd truly appreciate it. Thanks
  • deacon2deacon2 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1993 Eddie Bauer Bronco and needed to replace the water pump. As you are looking at it the 7" bolt on the left side that holds the pump to the block, the head broke off. The pump has been removed, but the rest of the bolt is still in the block with 2" protruding from the block. The bolt seems to be siezed and I have already tried vice grips. This bolt is very tough, does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    There is a tool for this (many types of tool actually) that's way better than a vice grip:

    You may want to soak the bolt in solvent if you can by squirting stuff in there and also hit it sharply with a hammer a few times.

    You're only going to get once good chance to get this out, and if you break it off in the block it's going to have to be drilled out--which is a royal PITA.

    So, the right tool, solvent, and if safe, even some heat.

    Here are some ideas for you:
  • stephencraigstephencraig Member Posts: 1
    Joe, I replaced all applicable sensors and the transmission with a rebuilt Jasper. On occasions it kicks into 2nd and out of gear completely. I have had two different trans shops look at it and neither can find the problem as it will not repeat when they drive it. I can drive it for days and it runs like a champ and then it will act up. I am at my wits end on what is the problem. One guy told me to have the Ford dealer re-flash the computer with default specs. The dealer said my year (1992)can not be re-flashed. Have you received any feedback to your problem? And have you thought about having the computer reset with your model?
  • deacon2deacon2 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks it worked like a champ, I did have to get a torch and heat it a little. unfortunately the new bolt I put into the block, I assume had either a stress fracture or not enough tensil strength, because before I even had the new bolt snugged it also broke off flush with the block. My neighbor came by to assist and ended up breaking the tip of an easy out off in the bolt. I know I need to drill this out and put in a "helicoil" but how can I drill through the broken easy out piece. I deperately need some help on this one. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Arghhh....easy outs are not "easy" to drill---they are very hard steel....a diamond bit and a lot of patience I'm afraid....and you have to be sure not to drill a hole bigger than the bolt size of course. Take your time with this, don't rush.
  • deacon2deacon2 Member Posts: 8
    Do you think that a cobalt drill bit would work? I have also heard that a carbide bit may do it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Not being a metallurgist, I can only guess. Hopefully the easy-out you used was a cheap one and isn't the hardest steel--if it's tooling bit grade steel, you're going to be drilling for a long time I'm afraid.
  • deacon2deacon2 Member Posts: 8
    thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Well good luck and just take your time and keep your sense of humor and you'll be fine with it. Don't rush or get frustrated.
  • deacon2deacon2 Member Posts: 8
    I went to Lowes and got a blackgold drill bit as well as a diamond grit drill bit. Figured I would give the blackgold a try since they say they are "stronger and sharper". They were the only place I could find the diamond grit drill bit. Here's to hoping.....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Do you have a stout metal punch to punch out a starter hole before you drill?
  • oldblue3oldblue3 Member Posts: 4
    I have had a few dozen of these broncos the motor is probably the problem 4 the wipers your wiring problem is probably at the front of the bronco by the battery the wires always get pinched right there there is also a wire there that will effect the running condition of the truck and radio shack sells a nice wire cleaner 4 about 6.00 bucks a can
  • oldblue3oldblue3 Member Posts: 4
    yes spring loaded impact center punch available at any local car parts chain
  • oldblue3oldblue3 Member Posts: 4
    check your lower ball joints
  • oldblue3oldblue3 Member Posts: 4
    about 3.00 to4.00 hundred you can save some if you choose to pull it yourself yes a 4wd truck trans will work providing its close to your year and make sure to put in an extra trans cooler with an electric fan it will cost a little extra but well worth it these trannys are known for overheating and the cooler and fan will increase the life of the new one a lot hope i helped you and good luck
  • falcon8falcon8 Member Posts: 1
    ABS light staying on.Checked relay and fuses.Not sure what resistance should be for sensors.Could I use a hand held code scanner to get codes, same one for ecm?
  • art20art20 Member Posts: 2
    I´m repairing YFA Carter Carburetor. There is a Sticker attached close to radiator that indicates that antidiesel screw must not be used to adjust idle speed and indicates to see Technical Service Bulletin 84-7-13. Any one has any comment?
  • wjameswjames Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 bronco and when the transmission get hot it won,t work. I have it at a transmissoin shop and he can,t figure it out any answers...
  • silverback3silverback3 Member Posts: 5
    I have an 89 Bronco II. After driving for about 15 minutes, the exhaust pops and starts to lose power. If I let it cool back down, it runs fine for 15 minutes (until it's heated back up).
    I've had the ignition module checked, O2 sensor checked, new coil, new computer. Nothing seems to be fixing the problem. Any suggestions?
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    sounds to me like you need an exhaust system does it seem like when you shut the car off you here tinkleing sounds or does it go away when you hit the gas do you see any difference in engine temp
  • silverback3silverback3 Member Posts: 5
    It has a new exhaust. The sound from the exhaust is more like a misfire or a backfire under acceleration. It's more like something heats up after 15 minutes of running and it's not getting the proper signal sent to the computer. The other thing that happens when the power goes is the oil pressure gage acts like a tachometer....acts like there's no oil pressure if you're not pressing the gas. Once you hit the gas, it reads normal.
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    well if it's not the cat i would look at the timing chain or gears often times the chain will expand enough to slip when engine is warm as engine cools the chain contracts so what happens is the timing becomes sloppy but doesn't actually slip
  • silverback3silverback3 Member Posts: 5
    that makes sense. i'll give it a shot and check that out. i didn't think about that.
  • ocalastudocalastud Member Posts: 1
    Hey Falcon8,
    Did you make any progress with your ABS Lite problem? I've got the same situation and it's driving me crazy! I changed the Front Wheel Sensors and the Module, but No Luck! I understand that the rear end has a ABS Sensor also. Have you got a clue where it's at? I would appreciate any help sent my way.
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    it's on top of the diff. about center forward
Sign In or Register to comment.