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Anyone with any ideas?? Thanks in advance.
Does anyone have any ideas on my proble??
Thanks in advance
I have a 2004 gmc sierra-with 22,520 miles.
Today the engine stalled for the (13th) time.
Every time it has stalled is at a very slow
speed. Either at a stop light or turning
into a parking space. Left turns(10x's)right
turns(1)straight(2x's). The truck has been
in the shop (6x's)---the last (6-7-07). A
GMC specialist for the NWest region had the
truck for a week, and determined that the
Throttlebody was gummed up.(???????)they
cleaned it and said all was now solved. Today,
1,465 miles later it stalled again(L)turn
slow about 5MPH. It also tried to stall (2)
other times today approaching a red light at
about 5-10MPH. They insist that I am not using the right gasoline(Chevron) is their
recommended brand. That is 'Hogwash'. There
is something that is causing the engine to
lose rpm's and the transmission is probably
stalling the engine. Every time it has happened to me, my foot is on the brake and
the vehicle is slowing down. They claim that
they haven't heard of any problem similar to
mine----we both know that is not true. I feel
they either can't figure it out---so they use
the gas excuse and blame me. Or if they
admit they have a problem they don't know how
to fix---they have to give us a replacement
truck---which they surely don't want to do.
Question????? When will the engine decide to stall at a high rate of speed without warning?
I don't want to be in a situation like that.
Suggestion: My truck is still under warranty
for a few months. It has existed since the
3rd month I owned it---they have to still try
and solve it. For you???? Have you made sure
that all grounding contacts are in fact clean
and solid? I still feel that the brake pedal
may have something to do with it. Lastly, the
computer may be screwed up. If the engine rpm's drop because of load on the engine, the
computer should compensate for the load and speed up the engine to maintain the rpm's at
a 500rpm level. If it doesn't, and they drop
to 200-300rpms---bingo the engine stalls.
I will be taking my truck in asap. If you have any info. or ideas for me, I would be
glad to hear them.
Dan
My truck is 100% stock. I have not changed one
thing or added anything to the engine area, or
any other area. Yesterday GM is really trying
to put the blame entirely on fuel. I use Arco
76Union, Shell, Chevron on occasion. GM says
not to use ARCO, Costco, Safeway, any Minute
Store gas products----Only Top-Tier-Highest
priced fuels. I told them they were full of it. My truck manual specifically states that
GM highly recommends that you use Oxygenated
(Ethanol or ether blended) fuels for a cleaner
burn and for cleaner air. I seriously feel
that they know they have a problem that they
haven't been able to isolate---it is happening
on plenty of these models---probably more
after the warranty has expired. In my case
it first occurred at 2500.0 miles(3 mo. old)
and has intermittently occurred(12x's) since
then. On average every 1731.0 miles. A little
as 450.0 miles between stalls to as much as
4,115.0 miles. Gasoline mileage has always
been consistent, City(15-16mpg)--Hwy(19-21).
I will use Chevron exclusively until it happens
again. When that happens(& it will), I look
forward to GM's newer excuse. They want me to be happy with my truck-but seem real reluctant
to solve matters soley by their financial cost.
Thanks for the reply. I hope you can shead
some light on this problem.
Dan
it !!!!!!!!!!
Only issue was broken mirror heaters !
My only thought was a mod you did............
Try using a different brand of gas?
I have an 02 HD 6.0 crewcab.
A number of times while going up a steep grade and
outside temp. kinda warm, I get a loud whinning noise coming
from the front area of the engine. Especially if I stomp on
the gas to pass someone. Then when I let up on it the noise goes away. Has anyone else had this problem? Can it be a belt or maybe the fan clutch? Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks :confuse:
I failed to say that I have a 5.3L-V8. We
will take it in next Wednesday and check the
Throttlebody to see what, if any deposits are
there. I have never used one brand of fuel
soley since I have owned this truck. I have
bought what was usually the lowest priced at
the time of purchase. Here in the Seattle
area it is not always ARCO, it can be 76 or
Citgo, even Costco and Safeway. I refuse to
accept that Chevron is the only right fuel
for this vehicle. If that is true, then the manual should state that specifically.
Regarding Heated side mirrors. I have had
(2) replaced on the drivers side so far.
They failed to heat the mirror---no problem
on the passenger side door. Neither one of them heat up very much.
I will let you know what the findings are next week when they finish with it at the Dealership.
Thanks for the input.
Dan
A brief description of that loud noise would help. One could mistake it for one's mother-in-law in some instances.
I'm having performance problems with my truck. Then engine runs rough, provide very little power and uses gas profusely. This has progressivley gotten worse over the last year.
The truck is a 1994 K1500 (4x4) Silverado with the 5.7 gasoline engine with only an upgraded Gibson exhaust (factory cat) and 180 degree thermostat. It has only 81K miles.
I just replaced the Dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires and fuel filter. My mechanic OK'ed fuel pump pressures, Coil and EGR valve and says I have the latest PROM from GM.
Oddly enough, the truck runs better with the EGR valve DISconnected, but it still isn't near as good as it should be and this of course generates an SES fault after a few miles of driving. Driving with the EGR connected is nearly impossible due to even worse performance. Any other ideas on what I should look at?
Thanks,
Ken.
Recently runs rough (missing) on rare occasions. Recently wouldn't start; just clicked like battery dead but batt was OK. Had it towed. When it got there it was OK and mechanic couldn't find anything wrong.
Any ideas?
Craig
Can't find any documented info on the web.
Thanks
I remember that Truckin magazine dyno'd a K&N kit. The results was an increase of 2 HP +-1.
That's quite a bit of money for a 2HP increase. Plus the cumulative effect is even less when adding a throttle body spacer and exhaust. Some aftermarket exhausts actually lose HP due to a decrease in backpressure. I remember Granatelli selling those aftermarket MAF minus the screen advertising and increase of 70% airflow. While in theory it may be close to that. What they don't tell you is the loss of power due to the incoming air being more turbulent since there's no screen to direct the flow.
If you want the loud exhaust or love that intake sound go for it. I'd save my money. Been there done that.
I was willing to pay the price for all the parts and have enjoyed my experience. Would I do it again...Probably not... Gonna retire soon as will use money more wisely.
All in all I had "invested" over $10K in aftermarket on my 2000 Silverado. There is no way I would do that again though I do miss listening to the Westside Connection on that $5K system. More I think about it I would do the aftermarket stereo and leave the truck stock. That way I won't have the extra noise conflicting with the stereo.
One thing you might want to consider is getting rid of the hypertech on ebay and get this one. It has a ton of options and custom downloadable tunes and costs about the same as the hypertech.
Diablo Sport
Also, in the Chilton maint book it says that a bad EGR valve could cause poor mpg. The thing is that my eng doesn't have one even though my VIN # (with a "T" in it) indicates it should (the chevy maint people can't explain it). The decrease in mpg seems to have started when I put on all terrain tires. The psi on these tires are 45 (compared to 35psi stock tires) and they are about the same in diameter. If it were the tires, wouldn't I see the difference instantly and not over time? The Chilton book suggests checking the exhaust and emissions systems. How do I do that? Any other suggestions??
I believe what Chilton's is referring to when stating to check exhaust and emissions is to check or have someone check your catalytic converters as a restricted cat would cause a drop in mpg too. You have four of them BTW.
tensioner pulley broke and the pulley and belt both blew off. I
coasted to the exit and into a gas station. Opened the hood and saw
the pulley and belt missing. Truck was not yet overheated, thank
goodness. I replaced the pulley and belt and started right up but the
grinding and rattling noise was there as if something was banging
around inside the engine. There is no water in the oil so it does not
appear to be a head gasket. I removed the belt and turned the water
pump, and no noise there. I turned alternator and there was a bit of
grinding but nothing major. I then got to the cranks( I think that is
what they are lower left and lower right to eather side of the water pump) The right side made no noise as I turned it, but
the left one (passenger side one below the A/C compressor) was grinding and rattling when I turned it by hand. What
does this mean? By the way the enging has 220,000 miles on it. I am
hoping someone can help me figure out what the grinding is. Piston,
rod, wahtever?
Thanks
Aaron
Just because you have a misfire on 1 and 5 (And I would have this verified first) doesn't mean head gasket failure. Is there water in the oil? Steam from the exhaust? It could be fouled plugs though with unleaded gas that would be unusual. Or perhaps a failed coil or two. Maybe it's just me but I don't have the dealer work on my trucks after the warranty period simply because they average charge $125 an hour for labor vs. a local mechanic who is around $85 an hour and even less if using greenbacks.
Did they give a reason for needing a head job? Besides the obvious of course...
They had changed the intake gasket because there was a bulletin on it. But the service engine light flashed on again afterwards. Brought it back they checked it all out again then put additves in. Only had it go on once after that when I was doing 85.
Hasn't gone on since but I haven't been doing any traveling. They last told me they would have to measure each rod to see if all are the same size, mind you my head is spinning. I have a regular mechanic I go to but there is certain things I feel better going to the dealer, they know me really well I bought about 10 vechicles from them and their service is really good which is surprising for a dealer.
I took a cover from from what looked eight injectors. Did not tell me anything. Cked all fuses with meter. The Chilton's and Hayes manuals are no help. Appreciate any guidance.
The problem im having is at 70 to 80 miles n hour my rpms will jump up and my check engine light blinks untill I slow down or speed up. I have taken it to the dealer and they give me BS things it could be like the worng spark plug bad wires and such everything they have told it could be I have fixed .
any help would be great it is killing my gas mileage.
Mike